
Originally Posted by
smallyachtsailor
Thanks for your interest Dave.
My smaller trimaran's main hull is 10' 4" long, about 28" beam at the deck (about 24" at the waterline), and has a slight V bottom with single chines. The centerboard is about 1x2 feet and the rudder is controlled by lines to a rotating footpedal crossbeam. The hull alone (with the C/B) weighs about 40 lbs. Its all built of 3 mm plywood with frames and chine logs.
The Amas are 8' long and symmetrical, triangular in section 7" wide at the widest point, and 8" deep. They each displace about 65 lbs or thereabouts.
Some of this is sketchy because I don't have full plans for it--I just sort of built it from what I had in my mind.
Total sail area is a paltry 37.5 sq. ft, which actually seems to be plenty for my purposes. I think I said earlier that this whole rig started as a sail rig for my old 16' sea kayak. The rig was originally a sliding gunter/marconi, but I didn't like it so I cut it down to a short-gaff (I'm a fan of Wharram), which works great and is much more robust. All-up, the boat weighs about 70-ish lbs, so about 250 lbs with my carcass in it. In my area (SE Connecticut) typical winds are about 5-10 mph, and that's enough to get the boat up to hull speed, and get the leeward ama submersed. Once that ama is awash I let up on the sail power--can't push that bow wave any faster anyway. I never intended to make it a fast boat, but others on the water usually seem impressed, and I think I at least keep up with boats that have much greater sail area (i.e., beetlecats, etc.).
At first the boat would hang up in irons now and then, but I solved that by double-sheeting the tiny jib and I can't say I have had any problem tacking since then--I just backwind the jib. Personally I wouldn't build a tri now without a jib.
I've rarely had to paddle the thing since it moves along well even in light air. If I shift my weight a bit and get both amas out of the water I can feel the speed increase. And downwind I just pull up the board and shift my weight a bit forward. I did take some measurements and placed the amas and crossbeams far enough out and fore-and-aft so I could easily paddle the boat. It paddles ok for a 10' 4" boat--easy to get up to hull speed, which isn't a whole lot compared to my 18' sea kayak.
The overall beam is just under 10', making the tri nearly square. The crossbeams are laminated with 4 layers and are 1 and 1/8" wide and 1 and 3/8" deep.
The rudder is a kick-up. I sail in very thin water at times, so I often have the tiny board pulled up partway. Steering is a breeze. Two lines attached to the rudder with a yoke, and they lead down through the rear deck and around pulleys on each side of my seat, then foreward to a swiveling steering yoke. I can steer with my feet, or with two fingers on one of the lines next to my seat-the boat is perfectly balanced.
I know many would want to add more sail to it, but unless you increased the ama volume, or got the boat to plane, I don't think the sail area would be of much added benefit. You can only drive 10' 4" so fast. Even on 37.5 sq. ft. the boat often outsails its stern wave a bit--say, any time the wind is over 10 kts. The whole thing unbolts and fits on top of my VW--still leaving room for a kayak on the other side of the rack. It takes about 15-20 minutes to go from car to water or back. I also have a small wheel that locks into place on the rudder gudgeons so I can roll it assembled into (or out of) the water solo.
The tri is so tiny, once another sailor some distance upwind of me looked very surprised when I finally sailed up to him. He then confessed he'd been watching the boat and thought it was radio controlled--he was looking for the guy on the shore with the transmitter.
Any other questions--I'd be happy to answer.
Bob