Fitting out. Where do you/did you start?

[Larks]

Bare painted hull, clean slate........regardless of design or sail or power boat.....where did you start your interior fit out or where would you start it and why???

Any photos if you have done one from scratch?

The only consideration is that the engine is to go in last.

[David G]

Why... you start at the beginning.

And when you get to the end... stop.

And don't forget to use only the very BEST butter!

Seriously, though. It does depend upon the sort of boat you're building. Refresh our/my memories. Fotos, of course, are good.

[Soundman67]

Actually you start when you have money. The end is when you dont have any left. Hopefully all the necessary pieces are in place by then.

[RFNK]

You might be better off asking this on the Larrikin thread by the look of this Greg! I think it was Peter who had a thread on boat interiors a while ago and there were some beautiful ideas there. That fellow that was helping Duncan had done some really nice interiors. I think I'd start with deciding what you want to use the boat for and where you're going to use it, then try and squeeze that in. The Poms seem to have yacht interiors mastered in my opinion - simple and practical. So I'd look at Giles etc as well as Ed wotsisname if I were you!

Rick

[Duncan Gibbs]

That would be Ed Burnett. He has some really nice GAs on his web site. I'll post a few later.

[Larks]

I'm not so interested in the arrangements, I have my own in mind, but more so in which particular area of their boats people have started their fitouts.

It may seem an odd question. I'm planning on starting at the bow with the anchor locker and working back, but while turning the process and requirements over in my mind there seemed so many options and different reasons to start in different areas that it just made me wonder where others may have fitted their first piece of interior "structure".

[johnno]

Greg, I know you want answers from people who've actually done it...that was your original question. I haven't, so take this with a grain of salt.

However, from building houses I'd say the most efficient way is to work consistently through the whole boat in a carefully staged way, rather than starting in one place and working 'through' the length of the boat, so to speak. I'd be puzzling out when the wiring is to go in, when the plumbing is to go in, sort out the framing, sort out the lining, then when the cabinetry is to go in, etc. That way I think everything is likely to be better co-ordinated with less back-tracking to retrofit stuff into already 'completed' sections. You'll be doing relatively similar tasks up and down the length of the boat at the same time, ending up with painting and varnishing, and final fittings. And you won't have to be protecting 'finished' areas from dirty dusty work in other parts. You know what I'm getting at I'm sure.

[wizbang 13]

engine bearers
tanks and battery holders
sole
galley(to port, of course)
engine
bunks
launch
worked for me

[ramillett]

I would suggest doing the things that are easy now , but well be hard are impossible to work on later like backing plates , bases of life lines , general hard points , deck drains , exhaust risers , opening up limber hole and sealing rib end , checking where fresh water and dirt well puddle , and sealing cracks and final finishing inside the hull . As you're creating the interior make sure you leave access for anything that may need service . I would not install threw hulls until all the furniture is in , they should be easily serviced when the boat done .

[PeterSibley]

2c worth from someone who knows very little indeed on this subject ! I'd mock it up in a general sort of way with junk mdf and ply, gyprock screws and hot glue until I had things just the way I wanted them. I draw plans and dimension them but prefer to actually see the space first .... make a pretend cup of tea, read a book in it, imagine my uses and chop things around to suit.

Where to start ? That might depend on whether the various fitout components are modular and removable or whether they are fixed permanently in place. If modular you could do almost anything them remove it from the hull and proceed with the next module.

I know this wasn't exactly what you asked but it might be relevant .

[RFNK]

Okay, we'll, I'd pretty much agree with the Wizbang's order but add that I'd do anything to do with the deck and cockpit last. With Pipsqueak, I set the engine up first, then the bulkheads, battens for the bunks, then built the cockpit, galley and ran the services through all that. I did the sole about last. Next time, I'll follow the order similar to Wizbang's and follow John's idea but I'd essentially work upwards, I think. Start with skin fittings, then get the engine and plumbing in, especially the exhaust as that's a real nuisance in a small boat, and work upwards from there.

Rick

[Ron Williamson]

I like to work a couple of projects at once,so if I get stopped by a problem,I can sort it,let it dry,or fix it at home later, but still work in another area.
So many things are connected that you can't really just work in one spot.
Like Peter,I'd build a quick mock up to live with for a few days/weeks, while you are doing other things.

This method is difficult if you like to get things 'done' and crossed off the list(lists!),because nothing is done until it's all done.
R

[Larks]

I agree Peter and Ron, a few mock-ups are worth the time and effort.

In my own case I've played around with quite a few different options, varying seat and bunk heights, widths, etc and so on to come up with an interior arrangement that I'm happy with. Here are a couple of the few dozen that I've done over the last year or so:

[Tom3]

Bare painted hull, clean slate........regardless of design or sail or power boat.....where did you start your interior fit out or where would you start it and why???

Any photos if you have done one from scratch?

The only consideration is that the engine is to go in last.

I haven't "done" a boat from scratch, but I'd start with a pencil and paper(I use CAD mostly, but it's all the same, building on paper).

Designing then building houses and restorations for decades, I'm 100% sure that the first idea on paper is never the best finish plan that gets built.

I'd redesign pencils on paper too, the eraser part should be bigger.

[PeterSibley]

I should have known you would have done a mockup already Greg, don't forget the foam thickness on those seats ! The open plan will be .....open and airy! Are you going to fit some kind of ring frame bracing in the place of the old full bulkhead in way of the mast ? Assuming there was one there.

[Larks]

I should have known you would have done a mockup already Greg, don't forget the foam thickness on those seats ! The open plan will be .....open and airy! Are you going to fit some kind of ring frame bracing in the place of the old full bulkhead in way of the mast ? Assuming there was one there.

I didn't actually want this thread to be about my own fit out as such Peter, which is why I kept it separate, but in my H28 the original bulkheads were "floating" bulkheads, in that they weren't structural and had very little holding them in place, mostly supported by their attachment to the bunks.

[PeterSibley]

!!! Surprise,I thought they were essential braces in way of the mast !

OK your boat excluded I think the the way a person proceeds is very much dependent on their way of thinking. Some will use CAD and stick closely to their design while I think that with the way I visualise spaces a full size mockup is essential .

What do you think about the removable module idea Greg ?

[WX]

I took the designers layout ideas and modified them on paper. Fitted the bulkheads, v-berth framing, cabin sole framing. Then work up and back from there. Some bits changed as ideas changed and some I just had to start and see where it led me.

[Tom3]

I agree Peter and Ron, a few mock-ups are worth the time and effort.

In my own case I've played around with quite a few different options, varying seat and bunk heights, widths, etc and so on to come up with an interior arrangement that I'm happy with. Here are a couple of the few dozen that I've done over the last year or so:

That's great design work. It's a fascinating process to see, especially in a small boat space. A good seat in many boats is hard to find.

[Larks]

What do you think about the removable module idea Greg ?

Where possible I reckon it's well worth while, particularly for a new build or refit or a boat that's been out for a while so that you have good clear access to see any leaks, weeps or other problems when relaunching. I'm building mine so that pretty much every panel can come out and go back through the companionway hatch for that reason.

[John Meachen]

Once all the significant parts,such as the engine are in place and the tanks are secured I like to work my way out of the boat.I would begin at the furthest point from the access to the interior as this avoids the need to drag tools and parts through completed areas.It also means that you can do the final finishing jobs on the way out with no risk of dragging power cables and the like across finished surfaces.

[ramillett]

While that hull is nice and clean , good time to get it finished . You can always tape where you know you well be gluing . Bob

[Candyfloss]

I started with the anchor locker & worked my way aft, or would have if my boat was at the stage yours is. It's just what makes sense to me. Do everything you possibly can before you put the decks on, then work upwards. Not that I followed this advice with my own build, but then I'm an impatient, impetuous idiot.

Looking forward to seeing this Greg.

[davidagage]

Greg, I was thinking about finding the ends of things (bulkheads) and then fitting stuff inbetween them. You can kinda see the chain locker bulkhead toward the bow and then mock ups of the cabin bulkheads. Between them will be a port and stbrd single berths, the airhead will fit at the bow end of the single berths kinda in the chain locker area. I have mocked up this setee to the strbd side but may change it to a cafe booth arrangement, not sure yet, and then the galley and a hanging locker to port? All this is in flux as we work our way through it..nothing's final till it's done..

[Matti]

I am concerned your chain locker location, is it original?
So much weight so forward, I'll have it further back under rope locker.

I started propane locers at stern and get go forward, maybe only reason was that I haven't had the water tanks welded in that time and there was taught that I am able to launch 2010 autum to sea trials, but...
I made head winter 2011 and launch june 2011
http://www.freewebs.com/maryii/
pictures are about right order
I made pluming and wiring afterwards to be sure that all are accessible for maintain.

Matti

[Larks]

Wonderful series of photos Matti, thank you for posting the link. I agree about the need to run wiring and plumbing last in order to ensure access for maintenance, I've spent a lot of time working on systems (or trying to work on systems) that have been installed with little or no regard to access for replacement, repairs or maintenance later on in the vessels life.

Re my own anchor locker, the location is as original for this vessel, although previously the chain was just layed onto the hull and drained into the bilge, I am introducing the shelf as I aim to set it up this time to drain overboard. I am aware that I will be raising the weight of the chain by about 150mm by doing this. During this refit I've been monitoring weights off/weights on and I do need to keep weight somewhat forward with the new fitout.

[Matti]

Wonderful series of photos Matti, thank you for posting the link. I agree about the need to run wiring and plumbing last in order to ensure access for maintenance, I've spent a lot of time working on systems (or trying to work on systems) that have been installed with little or no regard to access for replacement, repairs or maintenance later on in the vessels life.

Re my own anchor locker, the location is as original for this vessel, although previously the chain was just layed onto the hull and drained into the bilge, I am introducing the shelf as I aim to set it up this time to drain overboard. I am aware that I will be raising the weight of the chain by about 150mm by doing this. During this refit I've been monitoring weights off/weights on and I do need to keep weight somewhat forward with the new fitout.

I have shower drainage sump in bilge where head and galley sinks drainage goes and on third drainage hose from chain locker.http://www.svb24.com/index.php?sid=a...12463&anid=611
I am not satisfied to it, sometimes it just run but no pumping, my friend had same problem, other trademark, he exchanged the pump to http://www.svb24.com/index.php?sid=a...63&anid=117625 or similar, he just put it to exit hose and connected to working by same water level indicator.
I have same kind of experience, example;lots of work to have fuel tanks off, had to cut jigsaw whole interior out!

[John B]

A good place to start out is the head.

oh. solo sailor then eh .

[Larks]

A good place to start out is the head.

oh. solo sailor then eh .

On the H28, porta loo, plastic hospital bottles (for rough weather) and rail

[Candyfloss]

On the H28, porta loo, plastic hospital bottles (for rough weather) and rail

Greg, I can't believe what I am reading here. Portaloos are horrid, horrid, horrid things. They stink, they're awful to empty which you will have to do either at sea or carry the contents ashore to empty, you will have to keep stores of that appalling chemical (which doesn't work) on board, & they take up just as much room as a marine toilet. The only difference with installing a marine toilet is that you have two thru-hulls. What's the problem?

Don't you like girls? All the members of the tender gender that I have ever spoken to on the subject swear they would rather clean a marine toilet that men have been using than use a Portaloo.

The Kiwi H28s all have marine toilets. Candyfloss had a marine toilet, & now Ceiligh, a mere 22footer with no headroom has a (usable!) marine toilet with a semblance of privacy.

[Larks]

Greg, I can't believe what I am reading here. Portaloos are horrid, horrid, horrid things. They stink, they're awful to empty which you will have to do either at sea or carry the contents ashore to empty, you will have to keep stores of that appalling chemical (which doesn't work) on board, & they take up just as much room as a marine toilet. The only difference with installing a marine toilet is that you have two thru-hulls. What's the problem?

Don't you like girls? All the members of the tender gender that I have ever spoken to on the subject swear they would rather clean a marine toilet that men have been using than use a Portaloo.

The Kiwi H28s all have marine toilets. Candyfloss had a marine toilet, & now Ceiligh, a mere 22footer with no headroom has a (usable!) marine toilet with a semblance of privacy.

I just sail with more "adventurous" and hardy girls I reckon Graeme. Actually the issue is that new marine laws in Australia mean that, where I will mostly be sailing, we have to have electric macerator pumps, black water tanks and shoreside pump out capabilities hooked up to our boat dunnies, making them a big space and power user and I'd like to minimise power/battery requirements on this boat. The porta loo's seem to have become the popular alternative here for small boats so at the moment I'm really just making a fitout allowance to make sure that I have a space for one if/when I need it for my missus.

That's not to say that by the time I get to that area I won't have changed my mind if I can find a decent low power consumption, compact and affordable marine toilet. I won't have a heads as such but I do have a cunning plan for a space to hide the porta loo which I reckon wouldn't take much rethinking to house a suitable marine dunnie.

[davidagage]

The dunnie is a tough piece of equipment to place. I made a box the size one required and placed it here and set it there and sat upon it in variouse places. It never was quite right so I bought the Airhead and well, placed it here and set it there and sat upon it in variouse places. In the end I put it where the designer (Mr. O. Stephens was a pretty smart feller) put it, right betwixt the foot end (bow) of the single v berths. You will have to crawl over it to get to the chain locker/sail locker but that's no big deal. I'll build a removable platform over the top of it to aid in access to the front.