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Thread: A bit of fill and antifoul will sort it out.

  1. #176
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    Default Re: A bit of fill and antifoul will sort it out.

    The removal of toerail/rubbing strip has been completed in the water.
    I've dropped 3 chisels so far, though not my favourite ones obviously!
    I'll get her out of water after Xmas and get into the reconstruction then.
    I've purchased timber, and will get that roughly to shape before the haulout.
    I've removed the other un-needed winch base from the port side as well and got that sanded back and filled.
    The starboard side is ready for more undercoat then topcoats once everything else on the job list catches up.

    [IMG]

    The Portside winchbase removed and ready for fill.
    [IMG]

    It was pretty hot last week , so dipping the feet in the tide while working was welcome relief. There are 2 chisel down there!

    [IMG]

  2. #177
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    Default Re: A bit of fill and antifoul will sort it out.

    The sheer has always had a bump in it that I will attempt to remove as part of the refit.
    This photo shows the bumpy sheer, and the size of the surgery.

    [IMG]

    It is an 8 metre section so a splice or two is required to get the length from the timber I was able to purchase.
    I'm using Fijian Kauri which is the same botanical as the NZ Kauri. It is faster growing so is more porous than NZ Kauri. I'm going to use a local version of the smiths wood prep to seal it and then get use a 2 pack paint system.
    The rubbing strip shown in the photo's will be attached over the top with probably Siligna, which is an Aussie Eucalyptus that is tough enough to take the bumps.

  3. #178
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    Default Re: A bit of fill and antifoul will sort it out.

    How about spending a few minutes with a magnet on a rope to retrieve the chisels?I have known people who attach a lanyard to their tools for this kind of project.

  4. #179
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    Default Re: A bit of fill and antifoul will sort it out.

    Quote Originally Posted by Slacko View Post
    The sheer has always had a bump in it that I will attempt to remove as part of the refit.
    This photo shows the bumpy sheer, and the size of the surgery.

    [IMG]
    Normally shroud loads do that, but with your boats construction . . . .?

    Is the deck humped as well?
    It really is quite difficult to build an ugly wooden boat.

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  5. #180
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    Default Re: A bit of fill and antifoul will sort it out.

    Is there a bulkhead in line with the cap shrouds and a lower shroud a couple of feet aft to both squeeze and lift the sheer?

  6. #181
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    Default Re: A bit of fill and antifoul will sort it out.

    The top of the brown line is the edge of the deck, so yes it has the same shape.
    There is a bulkhead in line with the cap shroud and a lower which will be trying to lift. The bump is quite a bit further back in the boat.
    I've looked back through my photo's and it has always been there on this side. The other side looked fair in 2012 in the best photo I had side on at deck level, as lower or higher can change how it looks.
    I'll have a good look at the starboard side now to see if it has moved since then. Sitting on the hard for 2 years potentially didn't do any favours but the 2012 photo is after that time.
    I've been shopping for the bits I will need over Xmas as the stores here close for "2 weeks" over Christmas, normal service doeasn't resume until February with some suppliers.
    I got the wood prep Goop as well.

    [IMG]

    Interesting that the first coat needs 50% thinners added, which will evaporate after doing it's absorption into the wood thing. They advise 2 more coats at 25% and 10% thinners.
    Basically I got 3 litres of product for $110 NZ, so much cheaper than the name brand stuff sold in chandlers.
    I got this from the manufacturer direct.
    I don't normally use these types of product, but I'm not going to glass over it, so this will hopefully fill the pores and toughen the surface a little.

  7. #182
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    Default Re: A bit of fill and antifoul will sort it out.

    I took a photo of the Stb side this afternoon and while it does have some lift at the same point it is not as bad. There is some rot in that toerail as well, but that is another days job.

    [IMG]

    I also took a couple of snaps of the core samples I took from the toerail.
    They both got a bit damaged, but there is enough there to go on.
    The first one has the missing toerail sketched on the bench underneath it.
    [IMG]

    The second one is part of an earlier repair that has the wedge included in the main section.

    [IMG]

    The edge of the deck to the topsides is basically 90 degrees all the way down the rail, with the hull curving away as it drops to the waterline. The curve is more pronounced at the stern that the bow, which has very little shape in it until much lower than the rail.
    After splicing the 3 pieces of timber together, I'm going to cut a 10mm slice with a skillsaw into the back at 90 degrees where the toerail sits on deck.
    I'll then do the same cut 50 mm lower, and all material between these cuts will be removed.
    I then need to plane a taper to the bottom edge of the rail. There will be a hollow area in behind, which is where the rot travelled along the timber, but it was there for 50 years the last time and I will "seal" it before installing with plenty off epoxy and the 75 mm 14 gauge screws I've got for the job.
    I think some of the tapered edge will be removed at the fwd end from what I observed while removing, but I won't rush into it.

  8. #183
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    Default Re: A bit of fill and antifoul will sort it out.

    Quote Originally Posted by Peerie Maa View Post
    Normally shroud loads do that, but with your boats construction . . . .?

    Is the deck humped as well?
    Earlier in the thread Slacko said he was out sailing while work was not completed in the boat. I'm wondering if the galley semi bulkhead were removed at that time? I'm not certain that they would completely eliminate the hogging, but without them there would be no preventing the distortion.

  9. #184
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    Default Re: A bit of fill and antifoul will sort it out.

    I think having the interior out while it was on the hard was the culprit for the hogging.
    Anyway, yesterday I got back into it after a few days recovery from the Christmas lunch.
    I got her lifted out and a quick broom down sorted the hull slime.
    I removed the glue and glass over the hull rot and attacked it with gusto.
    As the first photo shows, I was having a lucky day.

    [IMG]

    Both the rotten planks had nice long scarfs within 300mm, so the rot didn't disappear under the hull as it could have.
    I thought that the scarf in the deck cleat had stopped the rot getting into the chainplate area, but I wasn't that lucky on closer inspection today.
    This is as far as I got on Day one.
    [IMG]

  10. #185
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    Default Re: A bit of fill and antifoul will sort it out.

    Today I concentrated on getting the deck cleat rot out.
    I had to remove that chainplate, which is the for the fwd lower, so I cranked the pole topping lift to the stanchion base in front of the repair to give some support to the mast.
    I also had to remove the holding tank (unused since installation luckily), some of the next plank forward and some locker doors to get access.
    Thanks goodness for multitools is all I can say! There were 2 other guys working on their vessels in the yard who said exactly that as well when I had a look at what they were up to.
    I got that hole cleaned up and measured for timber, and started on the other bit of rot that caught my attention further back.

    [IMG]

    Again it is a skarfed previous repair, although this time it is my fault for not fixing a deck leak in the Jib track.
    At least this patch has a bigger hatch door over the cupboard and some of the deck cleat is in plain view.
    Unfortunately this one also goes FWD into the rear lower shroud chainplate, so I will get the other one back in place before removing this shroud. I could probably get away with both being off, but I do have some caution.

    [IMG]

    This is how both repairs looked when I knocked off and came home.
    I spent an hour or so milling the timber to go back into the boat tomorrow.
    This is the planking stock. The repair done previously had been done by making one wider plank in place of two narrow ones. The timber I had left over from the toerails was not quite wide enough, so I'll replace with the original 34 mm wide by 19 mm thick planks.

    [IMG]

  11. #186
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    Default Re: A bit of fill and antifoul will sort it out.

    Not very visible progress today, so no photo's.
    I spent the morning coaxing the 650mm long piece of replacement deck cleat into the spot behind the hanging cupboard and a cabin locker. Without the hole in the side it wouldn't have been possible. The Fijian Kauri is so nice to work with hand tools. Most of the work I've been doing lately is with hardwoods (just hard work), or WRC (soft but splitty) so it is a nice change.
    I got it glued in after lunch, then started on the other section of deck cleat and found one end of the rot at a scarf again.
    I also started grinding back the topsides where the rubrail was attached.
    It was interesting that there was a thick layer of glue on the deck where the toerail sat forward of the hump, and not much where the hump is.
    This tells me that it has always had a bit of a hump there, but I have a plan!
    Tomorrow I will get the fwd lower shroud back on, remove the rear lower and find the end of the rot in that direction on the deck cleat.
    This timber would normally be called the beam shelf I think, but there are no deck beams so it doesn't seem right to call it that.

  12. #187
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    Default Re: A bit of fill and antifoul will sort it out.

    No work occurred today, but yesterday I coaxed the FWD shroud back into it's holes. At times it was hard to believe it had come out of there.
    The rear shroud did not want to come out! I abandoned removing the shroud before tackling the rot around it, and removed the wood to allow removal of the shroud.
    Pulling teeth being a good analogy, especially when I saw the angles all the threaded shafts went on.
    The holes were huge but filled with some very good goop, 5200 or 521 I expect. Some of the deck was ripped up in the process, so it will need a scarfed patch before putting the "tooth" back in.

    The "tooth" after a couple of hours soaking in hot citric acid.

    [IMG]

  13. #188
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    Default Re: A bit of fill and antifoul will sort it out.

    Quote Originally Posted by Slacko View Post

    The "tooth" after a couple of hours soaking in hot citric acid.

    [IMG]
    Ouch. It will be tiresome straitening those out, Not easy to grip in a vice without some just so hard packing
    It really is quite difficult to build an ugly wooden boat.

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  14. #189
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    Default Re: A bit of fill and antifoul will sort it out.

    Today I got the rear section of deck cleat rot removed, and a new piece cut and fitted. It ended up a bout 850mm long and wouldn't fit without major surgery to the interior cabinetry.
    I cut it in half with a long splice and it dropped in with no problems.
    I used the last of a batch of epoxy that had fast hardener, so I was sweating getting the deck cleat fitted without the epoxy going off in the heat of the afternoon.
    I also scarfed a patch of deck in where the rear lower chainplate fits.

    Almost visible progress!

    [IMG]

    [IMG]

    Tommorow I'll try to get some planking on, but work is going to get in the way a little.

  15. #190
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    Default Re: A bit of fill and antifoul will sort it out.

    Friday I got the planking cut and fitted into place.

    [IMG]

    I then glued them in with bronze nails along the edge and staples at the scarfs.

    [IMG]

    Yesterday I removed the staples and sanded to smooth it the repairs out. I then glassed over with 200 GSM cloth. Of course 10 minutes before glassing, the forcast gale winds came in so I wet the boat out and waited for the epoxy to kick off. I then had a sticky surface for the cloth to stick to and then filled the weave.

    This morning, I sanded it back and filled with epoxy and fairing powder.

    [IMG]

    I had left over from where I thought it needed to be, but added the extra anyway. It will save a day waiting for filler to go off if I am low in the middle where the curve is. I'm sure it will need at least one more layer still, but it looks pretty good.

  16. #191
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    Default Re: A bit of fill and antifoul will sort it out.

    I'm playing a waiting game now, so I sanded the handrails back and got a coat of varnish on them by mid afternoon.
    I was on a roll now so decided to remove the old diesel tank from under the port cockpit side.
    I had to cut off the filler and the return line to allow it to slide forward into the cabin.
    It just kept getting bigger!

    [IMG]

    I had to cut the corner off to get it to fit out through that gap over the 1/2 bulkhead, but eventually I got it into the cockpit.

    [IMG]
    I measured it and it takes 180 litres. That is a lot of diesel if you include the one on the Starboard side!
    It is filthy inside, 40 years of gunge buildup.

  17. #192
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    Default Re: A bit of fill and antifoul will sort it out.

    I cannot imagine that you will be anything other than happy when those diesel tanks are spotless inside.It might not be a fun job,but the knowledge that you have clean fuel available is hugely reassuring.Was everything beneath the tank in good order?

  18. #193
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    Default Re: A bit of fill and antifoul will sort it out.

    Any idea how you'll clean them out?
    Do they have ribs around the inside? (mine does, makes cleaning them out nigh on impossible).
    Philip K. Dick 'Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away'.

  19. #194
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    Default

    Wow you've got plenty going on there. Great work.

    Sent from my CPH1851 using Tapatalk

  20. #195
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    Default Re: A bit of fill and antifoul will sort it out.

    These tanks will go to the metal recyclers.
    I don't need them as I have 300 litre diesel capacity in the keel.
    I still need to climb in the hole and have a look around for anything that needs attention.
    There is a lot of space opened up with that tank out!

    I've sanded the filler and put a bit more in some of the low spots. I'll paint the patches with epoxy primer now to see if they are fair yet.

  21. #196
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    Default Re: A bit of fill and antifoul will sort it out.

    A very enjoyable thread, you write well and the pics were spot on to the text. Thank You.

  22. #197
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    Default Re: A bit of fill and antifoul will sort it out.

    Thanks for the encouragement!
    I am mostly documenting what I have done, not asking how to do stuff, so don't get a lot of feedback.
    There are boat builders in the yard who are happy to give advice if I am not confident in what I'm doing.
    That tank was 44 kg when I took it to the scrap merchant, so getting the other one out is worth the effort.
    I got a coat of paint on the repairs on the side to check for fairness, and it was pretty good with a small amount of filler required on the rear patch.
    [IMG]
    I've also been patching up all the war wounds from the last couple of seasons racing and then getting paint on these and the cockpit repairs. That job got pushed to one side by the toerail rot.
    The deck is painted with 2 pack International, so the fumes become a problem.
    Yesterday I got the timber for the toerail machined down to size and dropped off at the boatyard. I started scarfing the 3 pieces that will make up the toerail.

    [IMG]

    I was just reading another thread about scarfing Jigs. I'm cutting them at 3-1, and was able to cut them with a sabresaw and clean up with a handplane.
    One of the boatbuilders was giving me a hard time for not using a chainsaw!
    I guess I could get a hardspot from the short scarf, but i'm not expecting it to be easy anyway.

    I measured about 4 times at least to make sure that I wasn't cutting it a bit short, but removed about 1.5 metres off the end before setting up sawhorses and getting the scarfs aligned with a string line.
    Epoxy glue and a couple of screws to hold each one together was how I left it for the day.

    [IMG]

    Some of the racing crew came down today, so I set them up with sanding and painting the inside of the hull repairs, another coat of varnish and removing the second diesel tank.
    The sanding quickly expanded to other areas of the interior, so I left them to it.
    The tank came out quickly, after letting a 20 year old loose with the sabresaw and tight instructions.
    Some are coming back tomorrow to finish the painting, and whatever else I can think of.

  23. #198
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    Default Re: A bit of fill and antifoul will sort it out.

    Yesterday I got started shaping the new toerail.
    I cut the back out for the overlap of the toerail to sit on deck with the skilsaw and cut another 50 mm down from that at the same depth.
    I then tapered from the other corner down to the channel with an electric plane. I've never been happy with using electric planes, but it did a nice quick job.

    [IMG]

    I then flipped it over and measured, marked the angles to make the outside shape.
    I cut them close with the skilsaw set to 45 degrees, then electric planed them closer.
    End of days play saw 1/2 of it taken down to the lines with the Stanley 4 1/2.
    While this was happening the crew were cracking on with the interior painting, and also started sanding the rest of the toerail for paint.
    I floated the idea of going all white, but got voted down by everyone there so the Mauritius Blue will stay for the bottom 1/2 of the toerails.

    It poured with rain all night so I went down this morning and got a tarp over the toerail. That made it stop raining.
    I also took the other tank to the recyclers for another $35.
    In the afternoon I got another coat of paint over the last of the interior work that had been started. It looks like a tip in there still, so no photo's.

  24. #199
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    Default Re: A bit of fill and antifoul will sort it out.

    Work is now getting in the way of progress.
    During the week I got the toerail shaped with the hand plane, drilled for fastenings and got 3 coats of sealer on the inside surface.
    I finished all that yesterday among refitting the rear shroud chain plate, and refastened the Jib track and Stanchion base that had to be redrilled after replacing the timber underneath the deck.
    I also finally got around to hooking up my holding tank for the toilet. I still need to fit the final pipe to the through hull drain, but the spaghetti junction of 44mm pipe is mostly in.
    So today I took the bull by the horns and fitted the toerail.
    I used 3 halyards on hooks to control its ascent and attitude to the boat.

    On the way up!
    [IMG]






  25. #200
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    Default Re: A bit of fill and antifoul will sort it out.

    This photo shows the toerail partially fitted.

    [IMG]

    I was trying to this job done without removing both cradle arms from that side of the boat. The acrow props are doing the job, but it didn't feel great having to have both of them away from the rail.
    After getting the aft end held into position, I was able to scribe the deck shape onto the toerail.
    I then lowered the rail done onto the scaffold and routed the toerail up to meet the scribed line. I removed about 12 mm from the highest point.
    I then got bold and with the help of 3 of my racing crew, we mixed glue and fitted the rail permanently in place.

    Putting some finishing touches to the glue squeeze out tidy up
    [IMG]

    Happy days! It looks a whole lot better, but paint will tell the story.

    [IMG]

    I still need to make the rubbing strip and install, paint this and all the other repairs I've been doing on deck then put on brass strip.

  26. #201
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    Default Re: A bit of fill and antifoul will sort it out.

    Nice work. That rail is a real hefty section. Carry on......

  27. #202
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    Default Re: A bit of fill and antifoul will sort it out.

    After work last night I sanded back the glue, and put some filler where needed and ran a fillet along the deck/toerail join.
    Today after work I sanded that back and finished the plumbing on the holding tank.
    It ended up a tidy install, but I'm not looking forward to having to work on it if i get any blockages!
    I'll get some photo's of this and progress tomorrow.
    It was blowing about 40 knots in the yard tonight, so trying to get a coat of sealing epoxy wasn't going to work. It would have blown off the brush!
    Going back in the water tomorrow, and I will complete the painting on the mooring.

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