A bit of fill and antifoul will sort it out.

[Slacko]

Today was removing staples and screws, grinding back the strips, then coating the wood with neat epoxy to prime it for glassing.
The cloth wouldn't stick as the timber soaked all the resin up (not a bad thing), so I remembered some advice from a boatbuilder to put some glue powder in the resin to aide adhesion.
That made all the difference, so I got 3 layers of 200 gsm cloth on, getting smaller with each layer to allow for the anticipated flat spot from the strips laying flatter than ideal.



They are on there, I promise!

After a spot of lunch I troweled some resin and 417 fairing powder on at about 5mm thickness in the centre.



Hopefully that will fair out tomorrow to a reasonable shape.
Another successful day for me.
I also got the first top coat of International Perfection onto the hatch surrounds and lids.

[Stiletto]

Looking good, Impressive work output!

[John B]

Major!

[jonesmatt1957]

Glue Powder? Please explain.

[Slacko]

Thanks for the up's, trying to go sailing is a great way to create focus!
A question, and one I can answer too!
The glue powder that I use is West 406, which is colloidal silica based.
West make a range of powders that have various properties for different purposes.
I use 410 for fairing above the waterline. It is very light and smooth, but can sag due to viscosity changes as it cures.
It needs to have a layer of epoxy put on top when it is sanded to fill all holes from the popped microballoons. I do this with a couple of coats of epoxy primer.

I used 417 powder for fairing the hull yesterday and again today, it is brown when cured and is good below the waterline and doesn't sag when used upside down.
I needed to top it up after sanding this morning as the middle of the repair was about 3 mm low from where it needed to be.

I also got the second topcoat of paint on the hatches and lids.
The keel needed sanding and I also got a coat of Altex Primashield on the keel ready for antifoul tomorrow.
I also;
piped up and wired the gas locker,
adjusted the pitch of the kiwi prop which had got out of balance,
fitted the keel anode,
reconnected the stern running light which didn't work so I needed to take a multimeter tomorrow.

Getting close to launching now, it's just a shame the weather in NZ has turned wet for the next few days.

[Slacko]

The next day I sanded the extra fill layer and got a coat of 2 pot epoxy primer onto it.
After it had cured a bit I got the first coat of antifoul on the hull.
I marked out and temporarily fitted the hinges for the lockers. They needed to be modified to shorten the deck side of the hinges to fit.
I also masked off the cockpit hatches and seating for anti skid paint. The cockpit is looking a bit shabby these days so freshening the antiskid will lift it a bit.
I finally found the gas bottle regulator and electrical solenoid that I had safely stashed in the boasted, so got that fitted yesterday and tested the hot water and stove. All running OK.
Yesterday I got a coat of anti skid on the cockpit after beefing up the tarps. The weather is not playing nice, so I had to take a chance on the tarps holding until the coat was dry.
It was a partial success, with a few damp bits this morning to contend with.
I sorted the tarp and dried off the anti skid puddles. After a couple of hours it was dry enough to have another go.
The weather finally relented and I also got the second coat of antifoul on, so I'm ready to go back in the water tomorrow!
Once the second coat of antiskid had dried, I was able to fit the hinges and catches.



I needed to fit these "T nuts" on the more central screw of each hinge, as it landed right on the deck upturn. It is M5 threaded 316L, and they get hammered into the plywood and the spikes stop them turning.
The inside of the hatches still need to be paint finished, but this can happen when we get back from the trip.



This is always the most fun part of any fitout. Installing the bling!

All done, ready to go once I fit some foam tape tomorrow to make a sealing surface.



I fitted some rubber stoppers, so the lids can open flat against each other.

[Slacko]

I got dropped back in the water this morning.


On the motor sail back to the mooring the temperature gauge spiked up, so I shut down the engine and continued on while checking the situation.
I noticed that one of the frost plugs in the top of the head was whistling like a kettle.


The one in the middle of the photo the offending article. Once alongside in the marina I went to an engine reconditioner, got a replacement frost plug, and hammered it into place with some engine gasket goop.
I filled up the heat exchanger again and wondered why it took so much water.
Checking the dipstick level and state was the answer.
It is full of grey mousse, so the head gasket is blown or a cracked engine component is the answer.
That was the end of the holiday, and another world of pain with engines.

The deck looks good anyway!

[Garret]

The deck really does look good, but bummer on the engine. Hopefully, it's just a head gasket or something even simpler.

[John B]

I have a repower in my future , but I remember you doing a lot of engine work.. probably further back in this thread. I feel your pain.
Whats the deck finish/ colour? I've been using the grey kiwigrip but considering a change. Yours looks a bit darker , maybe just the light or camera.

[Slacko]

I use Resene deck and path anti skid.
There is a range of colour, this one is "off piste" which is appropriate I thought as a skier.
$150 for a 10 litre bucket.
I was looking at an early 90's Volvo 40hp with known service history etc for about $2K.
The one I put in was a bit of an unknown, and cost about $6K in total one thing after another.
If I had the list of repairs before starting I would have not gone there, and probably gone for the $2K Volvo at the time.
I thought it was finally sorted but it's gone pop 2 years later.

[Geftb]

I have a repower in my future , but I remember you doing a lot of engine work.. probably further back in this thread. I feel your pain.
Whats the deck finish/ colour? I've been using the grey kiwigrip but considering a change. Yours looks a bit darker , maybe just the light or camera.

if you buy white kiwi grip you can get it tinted any colour you want at the local paint shop. You may already know this?

bummer on the engine slacko. Feel for ya.

[Larks]

Bugger on the engine - but nice to see you back afloat

[Slacko]

I've had a bit more of a look at the engine.
Filling the cooling water reservoir results in a trickling sound and emptying into the sump with the level rising.
I'm thinking that is more than a blown head gasket, more like a cracked or rusted out water gallery somewhere inside.
It drains right down, so block rather than head. If either I won't be looking for a replacement block or head.
The parts for these engines seem to be beyond rare when I look around for other bits let alone major components.

I don't want to go through the same situation with another used engine, so am looking for something new in the range of 35-40 Hp.
I'm found a Lombardini 35 that looks good as a reference at $19,000 NZD, but open to others that may be available.

[pcford]

I've had a bit more of a look at the engine.
Filling the cooling water reservoir results in a trickling sound and emptying into the sump with the level rising.
I'm thinking that is more than a blown head gasket, more like a cracked or rusted out water gallery somewhere inside.
It drains right down, so block rather than head. If either I won't be looking for a replacement block or head.
The parts for these engines seem to be beyond rare when I look around for other bits let alone major components.

I don't want to go through the same situation with another used engine, so am looking for something new in the range of 35-40 Hp.
I'm found a Lombardini 35 that looks good as a reference at $19,000 NZD, but open to others that may be available.

Perhaps a skilled welder could help you.

[Garret]

Damn - sorry to hear it's likely more than a head gasket. I do think it might be worth popping off the head to see though.

If going for a new engine, at least here in the states it pays to shop around. In 2000, I discovered that the "I thought I could rebuild it" 4-108 in my new-to-me boatwas a rusty mess inside. I looked at Perkins rebuilt motors & checked out new. I ended up wanting a Yanmar (53HP). The local dealer wanted $15KUS. Even though Yanmar has "sales territories", I found a dealer in Florida who sold me the exact same motor for $9KUS. When I told him I'd send a certified check he said "Great - then I'll pay the shipping".

That was the 4JH4E. The current 3JH5E is the 3 cyl. version at about 39HP. Of course I'm not saying you can get one for 9KUS now - but getting creative may save you significant $.

[Rumars]

The Lombardini has a timing belt and unit injectors, it's best to have local trained support for it.
I realize it's the middle of the sailing season there and you probably want a new engine right now, so prices are what they are. A cheaper option would be to self marinize a kubota or mitsubishi block (or anything else that is common there) or to import something from overseas.

[Peerie Maa]

The parts for these engines seem to be beyond rare when I look around for other bits let alone major components.

When you find a replacement, sell the crock for breaking for spares, as they have a rarity value.

[Slacko]

When I first entertained using this engine I was trying to avoid throwing a heap of money at it.
I failed in that bid, as it spaced out the failures enough that I stuck at it spending another $1-2K each time.
I'm calling time on it as the next bill like this is half the cost of a new engine.
I can't see myself ever becoming confident in the reliability, so am going to bite the bullet.
I will list the engine, gearbox and ancillaries separately for sale to maximise what I can recoup.
I've made contact with a couple of local marine mechanics, so I can ensure I have good warranty support for whatever does go in.

Yes, it is the middle of the sailing season.
We went out for a sail in my little race yacht which made me feel OK, and the family had a good time.
Losing our holiday in the Sounds had made the whole family realise how much we enjoy the yacht, so this has helped opened up the option of a new engine.
The yacht racing starts up again in about a week, so the pressure will then be off to get it repaired ASAP.

[Slacko]

We had a nice couple of days at the beach at Castlepoint, trying not to think about what to do next.



This was the last manned lighthouse in NZ apparently, quite photogenic.

I've had a couple of quotes for engines now.
Trying not to lean too far one way until I've seen my options.
I'm up for a new propeller as well as both options so far are right hand rotation and my current prop is left hand.
One of the options has a 75mm exhaust outlet, which would mean a new hose, waterlock and skin fitting. A quick look at the pricing of these items quickly gets to $1500 as I need 5 metres of hose.

I spent the day scraping, sanding and undercoating one side of the lazarette bilge. Not a fun job, but has to be done to finish the job nicely.
There was quite a bit of paint and dirt removed in the process.



Scraped and partially sanded at this point.
A few hours later I was lying on my back painting up under the deck with the sun in my eyes.
It was a tough afternoon, but it could be worse.

[Rumars]

If there is no pressure I would look hard at marinizing a new engine. You already have a lot of good components, you know exactly how much a new jacketed manifold costs. What you don't know is the bellhousing situation, but there are plenty of solutions for that.
Over here a brand new complete generator or pump engine sells for about half the price as it's marinized version.

[Slacko]

That is worth some thought Rumars.
I had a marine mechanic visit the boat today.
He thinks a Volvo D1-30 would do the job. It is much smaller Hp than what I'm using at present (complete overkill), so I'm a bit worried about going too low.
Supply is the problem apparently. There is not much to choose from if I want anything this year.
I got a quote for a Beta 35 that was in the ballpark price wise with the other quotes, with my response being "what is the delivery?". Waiting for a reply to that.

Progress otherwise today was painting,



I got the first topcoat on that side.
The other side needs a layer of glass over the repairs just for piece of mind prior to painting.

[John B]

Yes beta.. the last time I checked it was all on hold.

[Slacko]

I paid a deposit on the only Volvo D1-30 in NZ yesterday, there wasn't much to choose from really if I wanted something installed any time soon.
Yes, the importers of Beta and Yanmar had no stock, Lombardinini had 1, and Nanni had 2, in the 30-40 Hp range.
There is a worldwide shortage of Volvo engines as they cannot get blocks from Perkins apparently.

This engine is a much smaller footprint, so there will be some cabin entry rework in the mix as well.
I'm hoping to move the door to the centreline of the boat and lose the bridgedeck.
I also need to attend to a leak around my rudder shaft that I've always had, but has suddenly got worse too.
I now need to get a space to come back out of the water and get on with it.

Last night I got the first topcoat of paint on the inside of the hatch lids.

[Slacko]

The hatches have 2 coats of paint on the inside now and look great.
The side that got repaired was sanded back,

and undercoated last night.

I also pumped out the sump of the engine. I think there is still something in there, so will remove the dipstick tube to get better access.

Mmm, yummy! This is a 20 litre bucket that is now 3/4 full.

[Slacko]

So, I'm back on the hard and the engine got removed on Friday after the tail end of the cyclone blew through.
I've stripped back the engine beds and removed all trace of the old engine box.
The new engine is so much smaller, that is would have been a waste of space.
The shaft is out to check for straightness, and to change the cutlass bearing.

Back to here. It wasn't that long ago since it last looked like this.

[Slacko]

Engine and yacht getting acquainted on the hard.



I've got 5 coats of varnish on the new engine control panel. This photo is wet varnish, so it looks better than I can usually manage with varnish.


There are other switches to go in the panel, but am focussing on the engine controls at the moment.

The new Kiwiprop turned up from the couriers yesterday, 3 days to manufacture and deliver to the door!


The marine mechanics have fabricated a steel frame to sit on the bearers, and are painting it now.
The shaft when removed was pitted, worn at the stuffing box and bent so that is being replaced which will slow things down.
A new cutlass bearing and shaft vibration isolator round out the current level of money haemorrhaging this week.

[Garret]

A hole in the water into which one pours money! Bummer all that stuff was bad - but glad you're doing it right.

[Slacko]

It's probably the first time any of this stuff has been touched, so not surprising really.

[Larks]

I’m thinking nice choice on the engine over the Lombardini in the absence of any Yanmar alternative (though it didn’t look like you were considering Yanmar anyway...??). I had considered a Lombardini for my H28 but funnily enough one of the Australian Lombardini reps who is a mate of mine quietly suggested I should stick with the Yanmar........

[John B]

I haven't really looked at the green death myself..., Don't like the company attitude very much and have heard too many avaricious installation cost escalation horror stories. And they won't accept owner servicing .

[Slacko]

Yes, I was talked out of the Lombardini, and there are no Yanmar's in NZ (or Aus) of the correct size.
The other alternatives (like Lombardini) come with parts supply issues.
The gland packing has been redone, cutlass installed and shaft has been made and installed.
I was getting stuff out of the way to look at the rudder leak on Tuesday and found that the back end of one of the engine beds was rotten and detached from the hull.
IMG20230301195854.jpg

IMG20230301195841.jpg

Before removing it, I patterned the shape of the hull with plywood so that it can be bonded for that length. The original was only sitting on the ribband right at the back.
For removal, I had to remove a coach bolt I installed when the Nissan motor was installed by me as belt and braces.
I then gave the front a tap and the Resorcinal glue joint broke and there was 1 nail supporting it!
The builder didn't use much Resorcinal glue in construction, mostly epoxy thank goodness. He didn't seem to be aware that it needs to be a tight joint to be effective.
IMG20230302184150.jpg

[Slacko]

I bought a nice piece of Jarrah for the rebuild, so last night I got that cut out to the basic shape,

IMG20230302193359.jpg

thicknessed,
IMG20230302200517.jpg

and then the 2 layers bonded together after roughing up the bonding surface.

IMG20230302212834.jpg
I used the notched trowel for the layer of thickened epoxy so I would get a closer joint.

IMG20230302213723.jpg

[Slacko]

Today I cleaned up the glue drips, then cut the step down in width as per the original with skilsaw and chisel.

IMG20230303165620.jpg

I then flattened down the top surface for the engine bracket to sit on. I don't get to use the No7 Stanley too often, it's a great cardio workout and very satisfying!
IMG20230303174515.jpg

I then bevelled the bottom edge where it will sit on the ribbands and the hull.
IMG20230303181151.jpg

It's not the final shape, but I will fit it to the boat and get it glued in on Sunday using the new engine frame as a guide along with the ring frame that it sits on at the front.

[Garret]

Good thing an engine swap is a simple, inexpensive process!

Oh wait...

[Priscilla]

Jack Cropp would be most certainly proud of both your commitment and efforts…