Good oarlocks?

[Kudzu]

Reading past posts I see complaints about Oarlocks and sockets. I am about to start cutting wood for the boat I designed and tying down the details on the rowing unit. I will need to purchase oarlocks and sockets soon and thought I would ask for suggestions. I am not locked in on any style on this, just something that works well and preferably reasonably priced. This will be sliding seat and 8' oars (at least that is the plan).

[Thad Van Gilder]

I do not like the new west marine oarlocks with the delrin inserts. Bronze is best.

I like the horn type best.

Is that what you mean?

[Irv Mac Dowell]

You might try Tom Regan's website at Grapeview Point Boatworks. He sells an unusual oval lock that looks very interesting.

Best regards,

Irv

[Hunky Dory]

I am very happy with my oarlocks from Ducktrap in Lincolnville Maine.

[Ian McColgin]

Sliding seat with just eight footers? I take it no outriggers. Frankly, I'd not do sliding seat in that configuration.

I like open top and I like the davis configuration that hang in the lock. I'll try to find a pic.

[Figment]

Like the ones on the right, Ian?
I have those in my dink.

My only quibble with them is that when cartopping they tend to dangle-down and rattle on the roof of the car.

[upchurchmr]

Concept 2 oarlocks - ~$20 each with bushings. Really good, consistent oarlocks. Captures the oar.
Are you in love with bronze at $100+?

http://www.concept2.com/us/oars/rela...s/Oarlocks.asp

[BBSebens]

Like the ones on the right, Ian?
I have those in my dink.

My only quibble with them is that when cartopping they tend to dangle-down and rattle on the roof of the car.

I have two pairs of the ones on the right on my boat. after 20 years of use and abuse, the forward ones are getting worn out. Although I've not been good about lubricating them.

Good oarlocks make a difference.

[Tom Robb]

I may be missing something, but buying oarlocks for a sliding seat rig to go w/ 8' oars?
Don't sliding seat units come w/ locks? And why only 8' oars w/ a sliding seat?
Perhaps more information would be a good thing.

[Ian McColgin]

Figment's got it. There are sourses for that davis pattern in iron which despite a little oxidation last considerably longer. I'm not a fan of lubing them since that just spreads slime everywhere and does not last long. Basicly I just don't worry and the oar locks take care of themselves. If you habitually turn your boat over for stowage on deck or on the beach, put a span of shock cord that you can flip over the horn ears when the oar lock is shipped. That also keeps them from ratteling all night if you leave the dink by your boat in the water.

I like the pattern because they are the fastest to ship or set, you can do it one handed, and you'll never lose it.

I like open top for real rowing since a wave might easily lift the oar out and the open top is the most easily set back to rights.

G'luck

[Kudzu]

I am kayaker, not a rower, what do I know about oar length? I have no problem with longer. Problem is I don't know what I want. Somewhere I got the impression 8' was a good length.

I built my own sliding seat and the outriggers are next on the list so I can make it what ever I need.

[Clinton B Chase]

The only hardware I find worth buying nowadays is what Duck Trap makes.
http://www.duck-trap.com/oarlocks&sockets.html

[DGentry]

Jeff, the typical length for sculling with a sliding seat is 9' oars (more or less). And, sliding seat rowers/scullers typically use specialized oars that are "D" shaped at the oarlock, as the shape acts as an index when you feather the oars. And, these (Douglas, IIRC) oarlocks typically look nothing like any of the above, but are offset to the side of the shaft. Like this:


If you don't want to go all fancy, you can use regular oars, and build oarlocks that give you the same motion. Phil Bolger gave us the plans. I haven't tried them, though I have made oarlock bases like he showed.

http://marina.fortunecity.com/breakwater/274/2001/0215/index.htm#ROWING 2001B

If you want to buy oarlocks, then I highly recommend Duckworks as your source. http://www.duckworksbbs.com/hardware/oarlocks/index.htm

Take a look at Piantedosi and Alden for ideas for your sliding seat.

Good luck!
Dave

[Robert W. Long]

I just bought boat plans from duckworks and I see on their website that the oarlocks they sell are American made and machined to a very close tolerance. When it comes time for me to buy mine I will most likely try theirs.

[Wooden Boat Fittings]

If you're getting removable rowlocks, either side- or top-mounted, make sure there's a 'waisted' section below the horns and above the mounting plate. (The first two rowlocks in the photo in Post #6 don't qualify. The drop rowlocks do, but for them you don't need it.) This is the place to permanently splice a short length of small stuff which, when the rowlock is shipped, you tie off to the rising. Then there's no chance of losing the fitting if you turtle.

Don't be tempted to tie off the rowlock using the hole often drilled at the end of the shaft (as in the same photo) -- you'll go crazy either tying and untying every time you ship and unship, or else forever trying to thread the tie-off line up and down through the mounting-plate.

The shock-cord idea is a good one for any type of rowlock -- just lash a short length of it to the rising below the rowlock, then when the rowlock's unshipped tuck it behind the shockcord to keep it from rattling.

Mike

[Kudzu]

Thanks, I am in new water here so this is exactly why I ask. Greatly appreciate the input.

Dave, 9' long seems huge compared to a kayak paddle. :-) But that is what I will go with. I have seen Jim Michalak article somewhere else. Matter of fact I have the Oar section printed out on my desk. I want to just buy locks and sockets since I have so much going on right now.

I have the sliding seat dryfitted together and I am very happy with it. It feels and works perfectly. Have not got the outriggers started yet but still looking at different ideas for those.

I thought I was going to start cutting wood this morning but discovered a 'little' issue and spent all day making changes. But should start cutting in the morning.

[Frank Wentzel]

You don't tie a piece of line through the hole in the bottom of the oarlock (rowlock actually). A short piece of chain (~ 4 inches )with a T-bar is attached to the hole in the end of the rowlock. The chain permits you to unship the rowlock and the T-bar stops the chain from going throught the socket unless you turn the T-bar parallel with the chain to slip it through the socket.

/// Frank ///

Note, I just looked in the Shaw and Tenny catalog and they call them safety chains

[Thorne]

I'd experiment with some long sticks of wood before deciding on what length. As above using a sliding seat changes all the usual recommendations for oar length, so it all depends on how your home-built slider works. Can you borrow oars from a rowing club or local TSCA? I suspect you'll want the Davis or Douglas locks, but may take up to 10' oars depending on the boat width and how your slider works...

Can you give us more info or post photos of the boat, distance between the locks (gunwales unless you use outriggers as are common for sliders), and height from the water? Will you row cross-handed or end-to-end?

[Kudzu]

Thorne, If you want the full monty this thread will give it to you.

The short version:
I was playing with different designs looking for a pulling boat. I took a previous design and made it more like a scull. Added a deck with coamings, lowered the profile while trying to keep some traditional styling in the boat. For those of us that are more experienced boaters (read: older) keep some stability since this is for exercise and recreation. Long enough to take advantage of the sliding seat. For use on protected water and but keep the bow tall enough that it can deal with some chop too. Crown the decks to divert water off to the sides.

It will be built SOF. It is just shy of 19' waterline. I am building my own sliding seat and outriggers. The seat is done but I have not started on the outriggers yet so the distance can be what ever I want. This is just a fun boat to get on the water and exercise with since I am not into racing.

We do have a start-up rowing club. I did some work on one of their shells recently but I am not a member. Racing takes the fun out of being on the water for me.

This is is most recent rendering. Outriggers are show just for looks and not to scale. As I said, it will be a complete drop in unit. I working on making the outrigger quickly removable for easier transportation.