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Thread: Scows , proa?

  1. #51
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    Default Re: Scows , proa?

    Good point! I'll go with that. Lot's of nice scows but looks like that 30' would be the easiest. Guess will need to find a plan and this is primarily to be motored. Not sure what sail plan it could have, but actually needs to be smaller than those show, can't exceed 19' over the water. Many shown just don't have the room forward, the low cabins won't work either but that's something that can be adopted, I don't see that as a big deal.

    As to the amas, again, should they be shaped as the main hull or pointy shaped, just thinking the scow look with a scow shaped ama might look consistent...?????

  2. #52
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    Default Re: Scows , proa?

    Quote Originally Posted by rogue View Post
    These days stainless fastners are cheap enough that is all I would use on building even a boat made of recycled ply.
    read up on 'stainless steel crevice corrosion'
    Mother, should I trust the government. . .

  3. #53
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    Default Re: Scows , proa?

    Yep, nothing lasts forever! With maintenance, lots of paint, re-glassing seams and some TLC, if this boat lasts 15 years, I'll be very happy....in 6 to 10 years, I'd probably be done with this concept anyway.

    As to the amas, again, should they be shaped as the main hull or pointy shaped, just thinking the scow look with a scow shaped ama might look consistent...?????

  4. #54
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    Default Re: Scows , proa?

    I think they should be pointed...they will at times punch through waves and you will want the least resistance possible to reduce stresses on the akas. They will be there strictly as stabilizing levers so they doesn't need to support a lot of weight. Ideally they would be somewhat banana shaped and cylindrical in cross section with pointed ends.
    Steve Lewis
    Formerly Lewisboats (don't try to change your email address!)

    http://angelfire.com/ego/lewisboatworks

  5. #55
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    Default Re: Scows , proa?

    Thanks Steve! I understand that and better efficiency as well. While most I believe heel and use one ama touching or burried, I was thinking of having both on the water for less heeling. This is primarily a power boat, I just didn't want to get wet with a $$$$$ motorcycle on board!

    And at 30' do you think an 8 or 10 foot ama could have enough volume to keep a boat like this from heeling much from normal chop along rivers? And keep it upright in the ICW?

  6. #56
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    Default Re: Scows , proa?

    I would look for 10-20% of the main hull displacement per ama
    Steve Lewis
    Formerly Lewisboats (don't try to change your email address!)

    http://angelfire.com/ego/lewisboatworks

  7. #57
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    Default Re: Scows , proa?

    Thanks Steve, I'm drawing it now. I'll see if I can find some suitable paper instead of the notebook. Seems my highschool drafting class might come in handy after all, but don't expect it to look like what you guys do!

    Kinda hard to figure out the rocker from pics, but I'll give it a shot. I have some ideas about the akas being adjustable, don't know if they need to be lifted up and down while running. Nothing too snazzy.

    I see now, several issues that I had not considered until you begin drawing something out. How my old lazy bones are going to make it forward for grounding and anchoring, getting in from the water, if there is enough room for your knees sitting on the head....lots of little things.

    Seems too that I need to investigate heating and cooling, placement of amenities, where the gen set goes and balancing fuel and water along with fixtures. Lockers and floation chambers along the sides.

    I don't have the weights of everything, so I can't find the water line really. I'm just going by guess and experience of being on small loaded boats.....

  8. #58
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    Default Re: Scows , proa?

    I suggest you do your drawings but before you lay out a penny for a screw...take them to a trained NA or Designer and have him/her vet the design and finish it out. It will take a lot more than a few pictures of a hull to build a boat that won't kill you.
    Steve Lewis
    Formerly Lewisboats (don't try to change your email address!)

    http://angelfire.com/ego/lewisboatworks

  9. #59
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    Default Re: Scows , proa?

    Youe must have read my mind! Hopefully, I can draw a rendition of what I want, get suggestions from those who have been there and done that, make modifications, get a final SOR and plan, then have someone with expertise bless it with engineering water, and have buildable plans. I may kill myself building it and that will make the whole thing irrelevant and it will ultimately be turned into a salad bar at Long John Silvers!

    Any suggestions off the top of your head are most welcome...
    Last edited by Wavewacker; 02-23-2012 at 10:24 AM.

  10. #60
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
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    8

    Default Re: Scows , proa?

    The best resource I've run into on flat bottom work boats is American Small Sailing Craft by Howard Chapelle. Larger plans, often with offsets, are available from the Smithsonian.. I purchased the 36' Chapelle design pictured in posting #22 along with a really neat design of a boat often referred to as a Piscataqua scow, which uses a Lee-board (freeing up the cabin. I also bought the plans drawing (with offsets) from Smithsonian, of that smaller one. It is listed as a San Francisco Scow Schooner (I think).
    Garvey's, scows, batteaus have been built in America for over 250 years, and that is long before galvanized or stainless fasteners. Bronze is expensive, too. Trunnels (Tree Nails) have also been used forever. Large Mediterranean trading ships had their planks tied on and sealed with pitch. (However if your have ever read the bible, you may remember that Paul was on one of those in a storm when it broke up leaving him and the on the beach.) If you're building a yacht go stainless or galv. If a work boat, consider "iron" boat nails (available today). I had some scrap underlayment plywood back in the 80's and built a 10' dink for my 27' Buccaneer. It was being built for fresh water so I just used lumberyard screws and Type III construction adhesive (caulking tube type). Gave the bottom a coat of glass with polyester resin. Some of the glass began to peel in 2009 (21 years later - bucaneer long gone). When I tried to peel it away most of it stayed put. Fasteners were a little rusty but strong.

    Like one contributor on one of these boat forums said about suitable glue, "I don't plan to boil my boat."

    I have passed on the idea of a scow for now, in favor of a Proa (Tipnol). Any sailing I am planning is either coastal shallows, or a quick hop across the Stream to the Islands. I prefer the idea of being able to make a run for a lee shore and actually beat the storm. Beachability and simple construction (cheaper - heavy scantlings need heavy fasteners, or stout tree nails). If I ever need to haul cargo, I'd go scow. By the way, Gulf Coast Scows were operated along the Texas cost in open waters.

    Making up the mind is the hardest part, for me. But, having settled on type, I've drawn it and am working on the rudder system, and shunting system.

    Good luck on your journey.

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