My lawton tender thread. Plans arrived today

[mrxireland]

I was like a child at xmass when these plans arrived today. I placed my order for them on the 1st feb and they only arrived today. I was checking everyday with the tracking number online just to see where they where,lol, my misses kept telling me to relax and stop going on about them but as we all know, thats impossible, esp as this is my 1st strip build and cant wait to get going.

My cedar is getting collected tomorrow and a friend is driving it 200miles down to me so cant wait to get cutting the strips in the next few days, ive still to make up table saw and rotuer table with my router and cicular saw so ill be busy teh next few days doing this.

After awhile going through the booklet that came with the plans, i was a bit disapointed because i was expecting alot more info for newbies like myself but i should get through this build with help on here. Ive noticed that in the booklet, it shows that i use an inner keel. Im wanting to know can i do away with this becaue it makes things more complacated(IMO). Im thinking of just bring the strips right around so they meet together like on cedar strip canoes. Ill still be putting an otter keel thou.

The plans i have here are for a 10ft lawton tender but im going to stretch mine to a 12 or even 14ft because im looking a bigger boat than 10ft. I have emailed the guy who sold me the plans and he says this is fine, just as long as i keep all the extra spacing the same distance.

It also says on the plans that i should use MDF for my stations but i was thinking of using 1/2" ply instead. The reason im thinking this is because if i use the forms again in a few years, they will still be in decent shape because MDF isnt that great wood and cant take much abuse ie- taking staples/screws out etc...

[SMARTINSEN]

From the website, it is a very pretty boat. Nick Schade's books on strip building are good if you would like some additional reading material. His designs are kayaks, but the methods and materials are the same.

[JimConlin]

The Ted Moores book is good too.

If kept dry, MDF will be more stable than plywood.

In general, I would suggest that you not deviate from the designers specifications until your second boat.

If you insist on stretching the boat's LOA by 40%, that'll affect the spacing between thwarts and other internal structure. Certainly don't decide to leave something out. I strongly recommend that you ask the designer for revised specs on their scantlings and spacing. Failing that, consult another designer or experienced builder of such craft.

[mrxireland]

The Ted Moores book is good too.

If kept dry, MDF will be more stable than plywood.

In general, I would suggest that you not deviate from the designers specifications until your second boat.

If you insist on stretching the boat's LOA by 40%, that'll affect the spacing between thwarts and other internal structure. Certainly don't decide to leave something out. I strongly recommend that you ask the designer for revised specs on their scantlings and spacing. Failing that, consult another designer or experienced builder of such craft.

I have also been thinking of making a different strong back, more like the one in gill gillpatricks book. The reason why im thinking this is because ill also be building a strip canoe out of gillpatricks book and i dont see the sence in building 2 strong backs but i'd want to build the bigger of the 2 so i can use it on both. Ill also add some plywood like another guy done in a thread here.

As for making the boat bigger buy 40%, im just thinking of adding 2ft now because i can see what you mean. However i did contact the designer and he said all i have to do is move the forms another 2 inchs apart. Would i run into any problems if i where to do this.


Can someone explain this to me. in the plans it says i need to use some ply and stick 2 sides with butternut or cheery for the transom but below i found a picture of the lawton tender and it looks to me that theyve used some thick timber, would i be right in what im thinking.


As for the keel, does it look like they have used just one and glued the cedar strip to it. In my plans it says about an inner and outer keel but i dont really understand the reason behind this.

[mrxireland]

[mrxireland]

I also must say, if my boat looks half as good as this then ill be well pleased. This is like a piece of art in my opinion.

[JimConlin]

That's carefully done, but dumb in many ways.

Even before the applied excresences, the transom is clunky heavy.
The cross-grain joint between the rudder parts will be troubled.
The carving on the tiller will not be comfortable in the hand, nor will the semi-square tiller behind it.
The rowlock sockets on the outboard side will damage adjacent craft and be vulnerable themselves.
The pinning of the oars to the rowlocks prevents feathering. It's only a good idea for fishing boats like the Rangely boat or the Adirondack guideboat.

[Canoez]

Congratulations on the arrival of your plans. Before you do anything else, make at least one or two copies of the plans and store the originals away. This way if the plans are damaged, you've got spares to fall back on. Study the plans a bit before you do anything else to make sure you understand what you're looking at and how you intend to proceed before you cut anything.

A plywood box-beam strongback is a much better idea than the one from dimensional lumber that Mr. Gilpatrick shows. For that matter, a "T-Beam" strongback from dimensional lumber is better as well, but not as good as the plywood box-beam. It is difficult to find dimensional lumber that is straight and of sufficient quality not to require lots of leveling and shimming when using Mr. Gilpatrick's method. (I've tried it, so I speak from experience.) A box beam only requires straight cuts and edges that meet. It would work for your tender or for a future canoe.

[mrxireland]

That's carefully done, but dumb in many ways.

Even before the applied excresences, the transom is clunky heavy.
The cross-grain joint between the rudder parts will be troubled.
The carving on the tiller will not be comfortable in the hand, nor will the semi-square tiller behind it.
The rowlock sockets on the outboard side will damage adjacent craft and be vulnerable themselves.
The pinning of the oars to the rowlocks prevents feathering. It's only a good idea for fishing boats like the Rangely boat or the Adirondack guideboat.

Jim no disrespect but i think your being to picky. In my opinion that boat above is a fine piece of art and if mines ends up like that then ill be one happy man.

Can you take a guess at what thickness and type of wood that transom is and what i'd be best to use. Im not to fond of gluing 2 ends of thin finished wood onto some mdf for my transom because i think itll look a mess at the top of the transom.

[mrxireland]

Congratulations on the arrival of your plans. Before you do anything else, make at least one or two copies of the plans and store the originals away. This way if the plans are damaged, you've got spares to fall back on. Study the plans a bit before you do anything else to make sure you understand what you're looking at and how you intend to proceed before you cut anything.

A plywood box-beam strongback is a much better idea than the one from dimensional lumber that Mr. Gilpatrick shows. For that matter, a "T-Beam" strongback from dimensional lumber is better as well, but not as good as the plywood box-beam. It is difficult to find dimensional lumber that is straight and of sufficient quality not to require lots of leveling and shimming when using Mr. Gilpatrick's method. (I've tried it, so I speak from experience.) A box beam only requires straight cuts and edges that meet. It would work for your tender or for a future canoe.

I have went over the plans about 6 times already and took notes of things i need to find out more off. As for the strong back, i was wanting to build the cheapest of the 2 and thought gillpatricks would be it. I have a lot of 4x3inch x 5ft and was going to use most of these in the strong back somewhere to save on buying some timber for the strongback.


I think i have run into a problem with my cedar and ash already but how much a problem i dont know. My mate who is on his way down with it now has just informed me that when he went to collect teh timber,m they didnt have no wrap so they could wrap it up so it couldnt get wet. My mate has it on hsi roof and is driving 4 hours to me and its raining here in ireland. Im wanting to know would this have any negative effects on my timber.

[mrxireland]

Plans & b+c router bits - $175 ( €133)
13 lengths of cedar 16ft 4x1 + 1 length of 16ft 6x1 ash - £223 (€268)
some extra tools - £56 (€67)
20 A4 sheets of carbon paper €4
4 sheets 1/2inch mdf €70
2 sheets 1/2inch ply €35
1 length 3x2 16ft €7

[Canoez]

I have went over the plans about 6 times already and took notes of things i need to find out more off. As for the strong back, i was wanting to build the cheapest of the 2 and thought gillpatricks would be it. I have a lot of 4x3inch x 5ft and was going to use most of these in the strong back somewhere to save on buying some timber for the strongback.


I think i have run into a problem with my cedar and ash already but how much a problem i dont know. My mate who is on his way down with it now has just informed me that when he went to collect teh timber,m they didnt have no wrap so they could wrap it up so it couldnt get wet. My mate has it on hsi roof and is driving 4 hours to me and its raining here in ireland. Im wanting to know would this have any negative effects on my timber.

Let it dry a bit - it'll be fine. The only thing you should look out for is warp, twist, or cupping in the boards from being wet.

One of the things a strongback should be is straight and flat. That's difficult to do with the timbers. Certainly you could flatten it or use wedges to get the patterns flat. I don't know what halfway decent plywood goes for in Ireland, but we've made strongbacks out of a single sheet of 1/2" plywood (for the deck), a sheet of 1/4" luan (for the sides) and some timber (Which you appear to have) for cross-blocking. Give it some consideration. Mine are on the narrow side, but yours could be a bit wider. Here's a quick look at how we do it.

[michigangeorge]

That's carefully done, but dumb in many ways.

Even before the applied excresences, the transom is clunky heavy.
The cross-grain joint between the rudder parts will be troubled.
The carving on the tiller will not be comfortable in the hand, nor will the semi-square tiller behind it.
The rowlock sockets on the outboard side will damage adjacent craft and be vulnerable themselves.
The pinning of the oars to the rowlocks prevents feathering. It's only a good idea for fishing boats like the Rangely boat or the Adirondack guideboat.

mrxireland, I'm in agreement with Jim. As a nice piece of woodworking that boat is more of an artistic work than a boat. The lack of detail in such items as the transom knees, breasthook, seat risors, thwarts, rudder and transom (in addition to Jim's comments) show a total lack of boat sense and traditional style. I often see boats such as this for sale at wooden boat shows and the builder just cannot understand why it does not sell when other, less fancy (in his mind) craft do. If you want to do it up in such a manner keep it to about four feet in length so it can be used as a baby crib or coffee table. If you intend to use it as a real boat do a bit of reading such as 'Pete Culler Boats' or 'Building Small Craft' by Gardner. Proportion and detail are everything when it comes to boats or fine furniture. I'm sorry to be so harsh but I feel strongly that this will save you some embarassment down the road.

[michigangeorge]

That's carefully done, but dumb in many ways.

Even before the applied excresences, the transom is clunky heavy.
The cross-grain joint between the rudder parts will be troubled.
The carving on the tiller will not be comfortable in the hand, nor will the semi-square tiller behind it.
The rowlock sockets on the outboard side will damage adjacent craft and be vulnerable themselves.
The pinning of the oars to the rowlocks prevents feathering. It's only a good idea for fishing boats like the Rangely boat or the Adirondack guideboat.

mrxireland, I'm in agreement with Jim. As a nice piece of woodworking that boat is more of an artistic work than a boat. The lack of detail in such items as the transom knees, breasthook, seat risors, thwarts, rudder and transom (in addition to Jim's comments) show a total lack of boat sense and traditional style. I often see boats such as this for sale at wooden boat shows and the builder just cannot understand why it does not sell when other, less fancy (in his mind) craft do. If you want to do it up in such a manner keep it to about four feet in length so it can be used as a baby crib or coffee table. If you intend to use it as a real boat do a bit of reading such as 'Pete Culler Boats' or 'Building Small Craft' by Gardner. Proportion and detail are everything when it comes to boats or fine furniture. I'm sorry to be so harsh but I feel strongly that this will save you some embarassment down the road.

[Sailor]

Agreed here as well. Wood is an interesting material and if you're going to assemble something as complex as a round bottomed boat out of it, you absolutely must understand how the individual parts work together. That rudder is a clear example of someone who does not understand this. It will come appart all by it's self after a season of use most likely. Unless he keeps it completely encased in epoxy and we all know rudders are the first thing to strike bottom so keeping it encased is virtually impossible. Do the research and do it right. You're going to invest significant amounts of time, money and effort, not to mention frustration in to this project. The least you can do is start of with the right ingredients and procedures. Good luck. I can't wait to follow this one along.

[mrxireland]

I do understand what yous are saying, that desgin on the transom,the rudder and what ever else yous mention, theres prob no real need for them. As for rest of teh finish, i'd be we'll pleased with it.

I recieved my cedar today and got them all planed to 19mm thick. Theres a guy from here(moygrove) who i met up with and he let me use his planing table to run all my planks threw and he also give me some good advice on what to do,and what not to do. I run all 13 planks through the planer but forgot to plane my 16ft 6x1.5 ash. I also gave him a piece of fine weave 200g per sq/m fiberglass cloth and he's going to wet it out and see if its ok to use. I bought a sq mter of the stuff of ebay to check to see if its ok to use, i hope this stuff is ok to use because the guy whos selling it, is selling it real cheap.

As for the colour of my cedar, im not that happy with it because its more on the darker side where i was really hoping it would be really light with possibly a qtr of the boat in the darkish red but ill just have to crack on and do with what i have.

[mrxireland]

Can anyone explain this to me. I can get a cicular saw blade for my cicular saw and ill also be making a DIY table so i can cut my cedar into 6mm strips but ive noticed that the thinest blade i can get is 1mm but it has more teeth that the blade that i already have which is 2mm. Ive noticed online that it says that blades with more teeth are for cross cutting and blades with fewer teeth are for riping. Will it be ok to use the thinest blade to cut my strips. The reason why i ask this is because ill get more strips if i use the thiner blade but i dont know this blade suitable for what im doing with it.

[mrxireland]

Yesterday and today i managed to get a few hours at this build. Yesterday i built my own table saw out of some 4x2s and 1/2 inch ply and attached my cicular saw till the underside and its cutting very good. Today i spent 5 hours striping my cedar into the 6mm strips. While i was striping my cedar i ended up with alot of cedar dust and i have baged it because im sure theres someone out there who might need this stuff. Would it be worth while putting it on ebay to see if i could get a few € for it


cost so far €584 and about 8hours of my time.

[mrxireland]

[mrxireland]

Can someone explain this to me. I have uploaded a pic below of what i need to know before i start cutting the mdf boards. This might sound silly but i dont really understand what he is saying here below on the plans. I have emailed the seller of the plans but he stoped replying to my emails as soon as my plans arrived.
.
.

[mrxireland]

[Fitz]

I'm guessing the last station is two pieces that are perpendicular to the stem form. That is, half of the form is on one side of the stem form and half of the form is on the other side of the stem form. If you use a different size stem, the half forms will need to be sized accordingly.

[samdog]

That goes between form 1 and 1.5 (paralell to your strongback) If you look at the main print,you will see it in the drawing at the bottom right.

[mrxireland]

Managed to get another few hours in yesterday and got all the strips finished. When i was cutting my last cuts the timber i was cutting was 12-16mm in places , i was able to rip it through and get my cut that i was cutting but i was left with a strip on the other end that is 6mm in most places but when i measured the length of the extra strip, it was 5-7mm in places. Will i still be able to use these strips in parts of the boat.

I have another major problem, when i was cutting the ash for my in/outwhales i ended up having to force the ash through it because it got abit stuck and ive now ballsed up my cicular saw because now its not cutting exactly as it should. I was also suppose to cut the ash for my stem etc... but ill prob have to put the build on hold now till i get this fixed or buy a new one and to be honest, i dont know is there anyone about here that actuly fix's tools.



cost so far €584 and about 12 hours of my time

[mrxireland]

Managed to get another few hours in yesterday and got all the strips finished. When i was cutting my last cuts the timber i was cutting was 12-16mm in places , i was able to rip it through and get my cut that i was cutting but i was left with a strip on the other end that is 6mm in most places but when i measured the length of the extra strip, it was 5-7mm in places. Will i still be able to use these strips in parts of the boat.

I have another major problem, when i was cutting the ash for my in/outwhales i ended up having to force the ash through it because it got abit stuck and ive now ballsed up my cicular saw because now its not cutting exactly as it should. I was also suppose to cut the ash for my stem etc... but ill prob have to put the build on hold now till i get this fixed or buy a new one and to be honest, i dont know is there anyone about here that actuly fix's tools.



cost so far €584 and about 12 hours of my time

[mrxireland]

Heres were the problem is with my saw. That bit sticking out right in the centre of the saw is where the problem is. This is the part that is wobbling. Does anyone know is this a big job to take apart and fix and it it aint to difficult, what is the name of the part so i can do a search online to see if i can get a replacment.





..

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[mrxireland]

Problem no2,lol. I managed to get all my strips threw my diy router table when doing the bead end without much problems thou theres a few strips that arent perfect but i think ill get away with just having to sand the problem out.

Heres the problem i have , when i was doing the it just wouldnt cove it properly. I Was giving a sample of a strip from a guy i met from on here , but i just couldnt get all my strips like his. I honestly dont know why its not routering properly, it seems to be doing it ok for about half of the strip but then the rest just looks a mess. I spent the best part of 2 hours trying all different things with moving my guide, moving the router bit up and down by the slightest amount but it just wont do it properly.

Ill have put this build at the back of my mind just for now untill i get the money to buy a proper router table. I have money coming to me at the end of the month that i was using for epoxy and fiberglass but ill have to put it towards a router table instead. I was trying to keep the costs of this boat to the minimum but i guess if i want a nice looking boat then ill have to use the proper tools.


Yesterday and today i was at it for about 9 hours in total so that takes me upto 20 hours so far and ive spent €592. I picked up 2 sets of straps for €4 each which i thought wasnt to bad

I had a wee moment today when i said to myself, why didnt i just buy a boat of someone for half the money this one is going to cost.

[MoMan]

I was trying to keep the costs of this boat to the minimum but i guess if i want a nice looking boat then ill have to use the proper tools.

I had a wee moment today when i said to myself, why didnt i just buy a boat of someone for half the money this one is going to cost.

Yes, I discovered long ago that building my own furniture/cutting boards/boat or whatever was the worst possible way to save myself money. But I also knew that going into the projects.

And in building my canoe I discovered that trying to take shortcuts to save time or effort or money more often than not cost me more of each in the end.

I think I recall a few people suggesting to you that if you really wanted to save money, buy don't build.


On your saw, is the arbor shaft bent? I have no idea if that's an easy fix or not, but it would seem to me it's pretty invasive surgery. Good luck!

[MoMan]

Problem no2,lol. I managed to get all my strips threw my diy router table when doing the bead end without much problems thou theres a few strips that arent perfect but i think ill get away with just having to sand the problem out.

Heres the problem i have , when i was doing the it just wouldnt cove it properly. I Was giving a sample of a strip from a guy i met from on here , but i just couldnt get all my strips like his. I honestly dont know why its not routering properly, it seems to be doing it ok for about half of the strip but then the rest just looks a mess. I spent the best part of 2 hours trying all different things with moving my guide, moving the router bit up and down by the slightest amount but it just wont do it properly.

Can you post several pictures of your set up? Include shots (various angles) of your infeed and outfeed support as well as your featherboard set up.

[Canoez]

If you're planning to build a boat, the economics aren't in your favor versus buying one. It's mostly about doing something you want to do. That being said, the first build you do probably will not meet your own personal expectations. A video I posted the other day was spot-on.

As far as the router table goes, here's what I've done - it requires a pair of routers to work in one pass. Here's a post with a picture of it in use. It is not my first go around at the router table, BTW. My first one was a piece of 3/4" plywood with a hole big enough for the cutters and an L-Shaped fence with a slot in the middle for the cutters. The fence was clamped to the plywood after much fiddling. A simple table, but very difficult to set-up well without some gage blocks. You could certainly build something very much like it to cut your strips. You will not need fiberglass and epoxy supplies for a while, so it's well worth your time and money to make a good one. The stock is too much of an investment to screw up if you can avoid it.

Oh, and FYI, either the bearings or the arbor are probably shot on the saw. Depending on how it was assembled (i.e. screws? rivets?) , it might be serviceable, but it is probably cheaper to buy a new one.

[mrxireland]

Can you post several pictures of your set up? Include shots (various angles) of your infeed and outfeed support as well as your featherboard set up.

Thanks for your replys guys. Im just in the door and just back from doing another few hours at it and i managed to solve problem 2. i forgot to mention that my router was abit broke so the only way i could move it up and down was to use a screw i installed myself. I went today and picked up a cheap router at 38euro and installed it on my table and it cut perfect so i managed to finish all the strips thou i have run into problem 3 and i think this is a big one.

In the shed that im working in it can get really damp because theres a few leaks in the roof and on one of the walls, the ground level outside is higher than the floor level of the shed and the wall can get really damp when it rains for few days. When i was cutting my strips, i put them in some plastic drainage pipe to store them out of the way. When i was routering the cove end, ive noticed that a good few of my strips have started to get a blackish mould on them.

I finished all the strips and have moved them indoors to a house i have a few fields away,turned on the heating and spread out all teh strips on teh floor so they can get a good drying incase theres still lots moisture in them. You see , the shed im using is my fathers and it hasnt really been getting used untill now so there was no real need to look after it because there wasnt really anything worthwhile in there.

My father has another shed that is completely dry but it has a massive opening on one side of it. Im thinking of using this shed now instead of the damp one because i wouldnt want my cedar to be all stained with mould when i start attaching the strips to the forms. Can anyone tell me if this is ok to do, would teh mould still spread if i use it in a shed thats dry and with plenty air movement.

Im also looking to know is it even possible to get the blackish mouldy stains out of the cedar or am i stuck with it. Ill take a few pictures of some of teh mould to show you how much is spoiled

[mrxireland]

If you're planning to build a boat, the economics aren't in your favor versus buying one. It's mostly about doing something you want to do. That being said, the first build you do probably will not meet your own personal expectations. A video I posted the other day was spot-on.

As far as the router table goes, here's what I've done - it requires a pair of routers to work in one pass. Here's a post with a picture of it in use. It is not my first go around at the router table, BTW. My first one was a piece of 3/4" plywood with a hole big enough for the cutters and an L-Shaped fence with a slot in the middle for the cutters. The fence was clamped to the plywood after much fiddling. A simple table, but very difficult to set-up well without some gage blocks. You could certainly build something very much like it to cut your strips. You will not need fiberglass and epoxy supplies for a while, so it's well worth your time and money to make a good one. The stock is too much of an investment to screw up if you can avoid it.

Oh, and FYI, either the bearings or the arbor are probably shot on the saw. Depending on how it was assembled (i.e. screws? rivets?) , it might be serviceable, but it is probably cheaper to buy a new one.

Im back in the right mind frame now after overcoming my wee hic-up about the router and im raring to go again. Have alll the strips finished and now ive to cut out the forms. Hope everything goes to plan from here thou im abit disapointed about using mdf because looking at it and the ply, the ply looks the better one to use IMO.





I phoned up a place that does replacement parts and i described what was happening and he told me that it could be no 52 or 853 but more likely no52. If i remember correctly, i think its the bearings flange that needs replaced.

[mrxireland]

As for my transom, im in 2 minds either to use white deal, red deal or some other timber. Ill be getting it during the week so hopefully ill have my mind made up by then. In the plans it says to use some butternut or cherry lengths and join them between some ply but i cant get my hands on any butternet/cherry timber and would prefare to use something thats is all in one piece like the red/white deal or even some marine ply. Is there any other thing that i could use. I like what this guy done above in that picture i posted but i dont know what type of timber that is TBH

[mrxireland]

€592 + €38 for the new router brings the total upto €630. I also was at it for another 5 hours and that brings me upto 25 hours in total.

[mrxireland]

I had a great opourtuinty to get some work done today and yesterday but i was real bad with the worst hangover ive had in years. I went out on sunday to watch the footballl match at 12.30 on sunday morning and forgot to come home and fell in the door at 12.30 that night. Really disapointed in myself because i knew id have 2 full days at the boat and could have got a good amount done because i had someone to help but ill prob not get near it till teh wknd or even early next week.

Ive took a few pics of some of the mould on a few of the strips , thou i dont think its as bad as i 1st thought. Youll see on the 1st pic here that this one has a good amount of mould but this is the only strip thats this bad. I even sanded some of it where youll see below and it took most of it off. Most of them arent that bad so i think im ok.

You will also see below theres a picture of my fathers shed. Im wanting to know will i be good to go and start using this shed instead of the one thats causing the damp. Im thinking that it should be ok because its allready a dry shed plus i will have the extra air movement with it being all open like this but would like to hear other guys views who have experience of this.

Last edited by mrxireland; Today at 05:02 PM.

[mrxireland]

Heres another few pics of how my strips came out.





This 2nd pic isnt that great but 90% of the strips came out like this and are perfect for the job.

[mrxireland]

The next 2 pics show that some of teh strips are thicker than what they should be but im going to make sure that the extra thickness is on the outside so i can sand it off.

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[mrxireland]

Yesterday i got another few hours in. I put some sand and cement where the leak was coming in the shed so hopefully this will solve the problem with damp. I also got 2 hours at building my strong back, it looks ok, ill take a few pics next time im out. Ill need to go to the builders yard and get somemore 3x2 for on top of the strongback for where the forms attach to. I sent away for that part for the saw so hopefully itll be working again sometime next week and i can start cutting the ash for my stem and keel.


Today I traced 5 of the forms onto 1 sheet of mdf using some carbon paper and theyve came out great. Im now wondering why i needed 4 sheets of mdf if i managed to get 5 on 1 sheet. It took me 2 and half hours to trace the 5 forms so that takes me upto 29 hours

I also picked up a new roofers square,some sand paper for my belt sander another new stapler for my helper so we're not using the same one and some rasp files so i can tidy up the forms,It cost me 16euro for these . Ive also orderd teh part for my cicular saw and its costing 18euro.


Total so far spen.t 664 euro
how much time ive been at it, 29 hours.

[gstanfield]

I just noticed your build thread. Congrats on getting this thing going!!! It's looking great so far.

The thread format looks a little familiar

[mrxireland]

I just noticed your build thread. Congrats on getting this thing going!!! It's looking great so far.

The thread format looks a little familiar

Thanks for poping in G, yeah you could say the formats a little familiar but its a good way to keep an idea of everything we spend and how long it takes . Can i ask you whats your thoughts on me thinking of building in the shed thats opened on 1 side. Im still in 2 minds on what to do because i wouldnt want to spoil this wood with mould.

I was out again today for a few hours and got all my forms drew out onto the MDF .I also managed to get the first 5 of them cut out and sanded into shape. I cut them about 1mm from the line with my jigsaw and sanded the extra 1mm out with my small handheld sander and theyve came out looking good to go.

My uncle came out to give me a hand and i give him 2 of my ash inwhales to sand with my belt sander. He got 2 sides of them sanded to a nice smooth finish but when he went to sand the 3rd sides together, the belt on the sander broke . All i could do was stand back and laugh because yet again i have another problem,lol.


Time spent at it - 34 hours

[gstanfield]

I don't think Mold will form on the wood in the time it takes to build, but where I am located it's very dry and mold is never an issue anyway! Go with what works for you, it's hard to seal out moisture and airflow is generally better than stale air so maybe you're better off with the open sides. I really don't know what would be best in your location??

It looks like you're really doing a good job on this build so far, especially in terms of making do without a lot of fancy equipment!

Keep up the good work.

[JimConlin]

The OP may not have the problem, but for many of us, it is a VERY BAD IDEA to keep any decipherable track of what it costs to build a boat.
In fact, I have known people to engage in elaborate money laundering schemes to confound such inquiry.

[mrxireland]

I don't think Mold will form on the wood in the time it takes to build, but where I am located it's very dry and mold is never an issue anyway! Go with what works for you, it's hard to seal out moisture and airflow is generally better than stale air so maybe you're better off with the open sides. I really don't know what would be best in your location??

It looks like you're really doing a good job on this build so far, especially in terms of making do without a lot of fancy equipment!

Keep up the good work.

I didnt think that the mould would take hold so quick myself on the few strips its on but i think that the leak in the shed was a major factor in it, but ive fixed the leak now(i hope). I wish i had it all striped and the fiberglass/epoxy here this week because weve had some great weather and the shed has been dry, but knowing the weather here in ireland, it'll prob piss down untill august.


I dont know to take the chance or not building it in the shed that could potentially become damp because once i set my stations up and start striping then i dont think ill be able to move it if any mould starts to appear if the shed becomes damp again. I've a few days to make up my mind and ill also be keeping an eye on the weather to see if ill use the open shed.

[mrxireland]

The OP may not have the problem, but for many of us, it is a VERY BAD IDEA to keep any decipherable track of what it costs to build a boat.
In fact, I have known people to engage in elaborate money laundering schemes to confound such inquiry.

Is there a joke in here jim,lol, i dont quite get what your saying, prob the irish in me here because we can be a bunch of thick **ckers at times

[JimConlin]

It's a very bad thing if a spouse learns the cost. If you know the actual cost, you might reveal it under torture, so it's best not to keep track at all.
Unless it's someone else's money.

[mrxireland]

I thought thats what you meant . Yeah you could say i have that wee problem but i just turn switch myself off when she starts opening her mouth about it,lol.

Im going to take a run out for a few hours to cut out the last few forms, ill take the camera with me and take a few pics to show how they came out.

[davebrown]

This is one of the most interesting threads I have ever read. Are you adding in all of the running around building table saws and router stands and etc.? Feb. 1 was the start of my THIRD YEAR on a Coquina build. My motto: Omni solutione duae difficultates. It's just the way it is with boatbuilding.

Ain't it grand?

[mrxireland]

Thanks for poping in dave, its great that you find this interesting . When you say am i adding in all the running around building table saws etc, do you mean am i adding in all the time spent on it. If so, yes ive added all the time ive worked on building the tablsaw,router tables etc here in this thread. I havent added in the time its took me to go to the builders yard for materials thou if thats what you also mean because the yard is only down the road and they deliver for free so they are just a phone call away when i need stuff brought out.

When you say your in your 3rd year on your coquina build, is this a bigger boat that your building ?

[mrxireland]

In this picture below is showing how much out of square a few of them where but TBH, it doesnt look much and i was in 2 minds just to leave them like this because i dont think this would make much difference to the boats structure. I did manage to sq a few of them up after i took this picture thou. Ill have another look at them in the next few days to see if anymore of them are out of sq like this but is it worth the hassle for only 1/2mm.










This is what i done when i noticed a few of them were out of sq, i run the (rasp)file over it then smoothed it off with the sander.

[mrxireland]

Excuse the mess of the place but after i cleaned out the shed, i just wanted to get stuck into starting the boat and have turned a blind eye to the mess. My father isnt to happy thou,lol. He's been busting my balls to move it into one of teh other sheds but TBH i keep telling myself ill do it the next time im out but like i said above, i just get stuck into the boat as the enthusiasm gets the hold of me.










Here below is a picture of my strong back. I used 2 sheets cut into 1ft wide lengths. Its overall size is 14ft because i had to take 2x4ft of the end of one so i could use it for my saw/router table. The strong back still need's to be joined together. Its reinforced every 2ft with 2 x 3x3 inch blocks and put together with screws. Ill be making up some more saw horses with some 4 ft x 3x3inch that my father has in the shed. He picks these up for free in my uncles work place as they just throw them out. He usely uses them for posts around his land but i think ill just have to swipe another few for my saw horses , i dont think he'l mind.