Results 1 to 30 of 30

Thread: New Seabright Skiff

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    13

    Default New Seabright Skiff

    Good evening,

    I just bought this Seabright Skiff, possibly built in York PA (?) date unknown. The boat has never been wet, nor left outside. I believe the planks are cedar. I am asking for help on how to finish the boat, since it is at least a few years old, i want to make sure I paint/varnish/oil the boat properly and need advice on what to do.

    I got the boat from the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum in their donated boat section. They are great to deal with and reasonably priced (I paid $650 for this boat)




    Thanks in advance for any advice

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    East Quogue,NY
    Posts
    6,961

    Default Re: New Seabright Skiff

    Score for you! Congrats. I'm sure the pros here will be along to offer you the right advice.

    kevin
    There are two kinds of boaters: those who have run aground, and those who lie about it.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Victoria BC, Canada
    Posts
    48

    Default Re: New Seabright Skiff

    Hi Brian,
    Fantastic deal you got there. I'll be happy to offer some advice. In my opinion you can't got wrong with a good oiling to kick things off. Linseed or tung oil is fine. I would cut it with some turpentine or paint thinner by 25-50%. You can keep applying oil as long as the wood soaks it up but you must wipe it down thoroughly before the oil becomes tacky. I would give it up to a week to dry before applying any film finishes.
    If it were my boat, I would use boat sauce on the interior planking (oil, varnish, pine tar mix). Varnish the thwart riser, knees, inwale and outwale and the sheer strake exterior. Paint the thwarts and exterior planking.
    I'm a fan of Epifanes and Le Tonkinois varnishes. I would use Kirby paint if it is available to you.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Portland, Oregon
    Posts
    20,154

    Default Re: New Seabright Skiff

    Brian,

    Beautiful find. Whenever I start puzzling paint schemes - one of my first questions is: what's traditional. Perhaps the nice folks at the Museum can help you find fotos or information on traditional schemes. If one of them pleases you... you're in business.

    If you're going to start with a blank slate... no bow toward the historical... that opens it up. I, personally, like traditional boats like this mostly painted or all painted. If you're going to varnish at all, you might think about just the gunwales, or just the thwarts, or the two together. Since it's a trad boat - I'd ask for paint chips from traditional marine paint suppliers Kirby and Marshall's Cove.

    Ok... you've got one opinion at least.
    David G
    Harbor Woodworks
    http://www.harborwoodworking.com/boat.html

    "It was a Sunday morning and Goddard gave thanks that there were still places where one could worship in temples not made by human hands." -- L. F. Herreshoff (The Compleat Cruiser)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    13

    Default Re: New Seabright Skiff

    Thank You gentlemen, I appreciate the advice. I know there has been conversations on how to or even if you should cover the nail heads but I can't seem to find the thread(s). If I remember right, the concern about using a hard setting epoxy material is that it may make repairs in the future nearly impossible. Bungs are out, the holes aren't even enough, what is the 3rd option?



  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Walney, near Cumbria UK
    Posts
    17,743

    Default Re: New Seabright Skiff

    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Marks View Post
    Thank You gentlemen, I appreciate the advice. I know there has been conversations on how to or even if you should cover the nail heads but I can't seem to find the thread(s). If I remember right, the concern about using a hard setting epoxy material is that it may make repairs in the future nearly impossible. Bungs are out, the holes aren't even enough, what is the 3rd option?


    Ordinary oil based putty.
    It really is quite difficult to build an ugly wooden boat.

    The power of the web: Anyone can post anything on the web
    The weakness of the web: Anyone can post anything on the web.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Portland, Oregon
    Posts
    20,154

    Default Re: New Seabright Skiff

    Heat & mix: beeswax & rosin. Use as putty.
    David G
    Harbor Woodworks
    http://www.harborwoodworking.com/boat.html

    "It was a Sunday morning and Goddard gave thanks that there were still places where one could worship in temples not made by human hands." -- L. F. Herreshoff (The Compleat Cruiser)

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Location
    N.E. Connecticut.
    Posts
    3,420

    Default Re: New Seabright Skiff

    I'd go with oil base putty on the rivet heads & then oil base primers & paints. As for colors, if you are looking for 'proper' traditional ones, Hankins used white outside & gray inside, and Van Sant, used a blue interior I believe. Nice skiff, do you have more pictures? Does she have a rolled garboard keel?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    13

    Default Re: New Seabright Skiff

    Some more photos out in the daylight - I've ordered some tung oil and hope to start oiling her this week. Thank you all for your quick and helpful comments!
    Please ignore the dinghy that is stored in the Seabright Skiff.....




    Last edited by Brian Marks; 01-23-2012 at 04:53 PM. Reason: spelling

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    The headwaters of the Petaluma River and up a hill. ,CA
    Posts
    3,541

    Default Re: New Seabright Skiff

    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Marks View Post
    Thank You gentlemen, I appreciate the advice. I know there has been conversations on how to or even if you should cover the nail heads but I can't seem to find the thread(s). If I remember right, the concern about using a hard setting epoxy material is that it may make repairs in the future nearly impossible.
    Not anywhere near impossible at all.
    I had screwed all the floors through the planks of my lapstrake folkboat, one screw per plank at each step, with stainless steel screws and filled the holes with epoxy. About 120 to 150 screws.
    I was advised after this job was done, that I should have installed bronze screws. So out they came. Every last one, and in with the bronze ones and refilled. Wasn't too difficult.
    ..don't judge a man till you've walked a mile in his shoes..

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Location
    N.E. Connecticut.
    Posts
    3,420

    Default Re: New Seabright Skiff

    Very nice! There were pretty much three builders of the surf boats that were used by the lifeguards on the Jersey shore in the later years of the wood ones. Van Sant around Atlantic City, I don't believe he used a rolled garboard keel, Charles Hankins in Lavalette (most closely resembled by your boat), and Warren Nau of Morgan (finer lines & not as full a transom). Each of the three builders had dedicated followers and pretty much supplied thir local regions for surf boats / life boats. Nau, from Sandy Hook to Long branch, Hankins from Long Branch to south of Lavalette, and Van Sant the southern part of the state.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Michigan, Water Wonderland
    Posts
    852

    Default Re: New Seabright Skiff

    What a neat boat! When you are looking at some of the traditional coating options, are you familiar with handling the rags? I am not sure from which era you approach this from, but if I was helping my 20 something kids, I would be including the spontaneous combustion possibilities of the used rags.
    If you are old, and therefore know, then never mind .

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    13

    Default Re: New Seabright Skiff

    I'm old, but not wise in the art of boat building. I have a small workshop and admire fine wood working, and have a passion for boats. Any advice is welcomed!

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    13

    Default Re: New Seabright Skiff

    The oiling continues...I did buy a trailer especially for this boat from Craigs List, not a bad deal at $400. All I have to do is adjust the bunks and rollers

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    13

    Default Re: New Seabright Skiff

    Good Morning, the oiling continues but I'm planning the next step. Can someone recommend a good oil based putty to fill the nail head holes and a source of supply? I just found a copy of Guthorn's book The Sea Bright Skiff and Other Shore Boats. It is a nice history of the boat - I'm looking forward to getting her on the River this spring

    Thanks
    Brian

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Sound Beach, NY
    Posts
    2,930

    Default Re: New Seabright Skiff

    Good luck, let us know how it goes. I've found linseed oil to darken and look dirty over time, but you can always paint it if necessary.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    13

    Default Re: New Seabright Skiff

    And the oiling continues...it is starting to look good and even. I did have to repair a couple knot holes with a West System filler mix. Also a couple planks were scarred by rollers on the trailer, I have them glues up and faired in pretty nicely.

    I think I decided to just oil the boat, I like the look - do the nail holes need to be filled or is filling just a cosmetic treatment before painting?

    When I can't oil due to weather (I need 2 dry days in a row when I don't have to work so I can leave it outside) I work on the trailer trying to build a good support system that also allows easy on/ easy off

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    Atlanta, Georgia, USA
    Posts
    237

    Default Re: New Seabright Skiff

    If you have not watched this film you should:

    http://www.folkstreams.net/film,41

    the building of a Seabright Skiff by Charles Hankins.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    13

    Default Re: New Seabright Skiff

    I actually blame that film for starting me down this road - I tried to find a complete Hankins for a while but gave up and bought this so I could get it on the River this spring

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    The headwaters of the Petaluma River and up a hill. ,CA
    Posts
    3,541

    Default Re: New Seabright Skiff

    Quote Originally Posted by Bert Langley View Post
    If you have not watched this film you should:

    http://www.folkstreams.net/film,41

    the building of a Seabright Skiff by Charles Hankins.
    I watchd this movie a while back and again just now. Isn't it just a gem? Charlie. What a pleasantly skilled and mannered man. 1,000 plus boats. One THOUSAND!. My God, he could make one blindfolded whilst drinking a cuppa hot tea and chattin' all the while, no problem.
    Thanks for posting this.
    ..don't judge a man till you've walked a mile in his shoes..

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    13

    Default Re: New Seabright Skiff

    Good Morning,

    We finally got the boat in the water but I found out that the scarf joint on the bottom is leaking. The bottom of the skiff is 1/2 inch plywood and it has a scarf joint where to 8 foot sections were joined. Is there a way to seal a joint like this? it doesn't leak across the whole joint but in just a couple spots but enough to be more than a nuisance.

    Thanks in advance
    Brian

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Walney, near Cumbria UK
    Posts
    17,743

    Default Re: New Seabright Skiff

    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Marks View Post
    Good Morning,

    We finally got the boat in the water but I found out that the scarf joint on the bottom is leaking. The bottom of the skiff is 1/2 inch plywood and it has a scarf joint where to 8 foot sections were joined. Is there a way to seal a joint like this? it doesn't leak across the whole joint but in just a couple spots but enough to be more than a nuisance.

    Thanks in advance
    Brian
    First thing is to try to find our where it is coming in on the outside, how much of the scarf was glue starved or cracked through flexing. With that info you can narrow down your options.
    It really is quite difficult to build an ugly wooden boat.

    The power of the web: Anyone can post anything on the web
    The weakness of the web: Anyone can post anything on the web.

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    13

    Default Re: New Seabright Skiff

    I rolled the boat over, the scarf doesn't look like it is very wide but it definitely isn't a butt joint. The builder used so black adhesive, it looks forced out in places and in some other areas there is no excess adhesive. Looking at the bottom on the inside, there is a continuous black line that looks like the adhesive was spread evenly. The joint doesn't flex and seems structurally sound.

    Where there was no glue (looking at the bottom from outside) I tried putting feeler gauges in the joint - the gauge went in a little ways but not all the way through.

    I would say the glue starved joint is 15-20% of the 20 inch wide scarf in varied areas, not all isolated in one spot

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    South Puget Sound/summer Eastern carib./winter
    Posts
    9,790

    Default Re: New Seabright Skiff

    Now that you have a bunch of old fashion oily gunk on a plywood bottom boat, the fun can start. just kidding.
    Dry her, smoosh devil resin in the gap, maybe put a quarter inch tapered ply butt on the inside, (in epoxy devil resin).
    sounds like the ply was scarphed with resourcinol, "good ol fashion trad glue" , still kidding.
    Is it too late to cpes the fir ply bottom ?

  25. #25
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Walney, near Cumbria UK
    Posts
    17,743

    Default Re: New Seabright Skiff

    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Marks View Post
    I rolled the boat over, the scarf doesn't look like it is very wide but it definitely isn't a butt joint. The builder used so black adhesive, it looks forced out in places and in some other areas there is no excess adhesive. Looking at the bottom on the inside, there is a continuous black line that looks like the adhesive was spread evenly. The joint doesn't flex and seems structurally sound.

    Where there was no glue (looking at the bottom from outside) I tried putting feeler gauges in the joint - the gauge went in a little ways but not all the way through.

    I would say the glue starved joint is 15-20% of the 20 inch wide scarf in varied areas, not all isolated in one spot
    When thoughly dry, I would consider routering off the outer veneer overlapping both the after and forward panel, and then gluing in a new piece of veneer like a shallow inlet butt block. That will both seal the leak, and put a little of the strength back.
    It really is quite difficult to build an ugly wooden boat.

    The power of the web: Anyone can post anything on the web
    The weakness of the web: Anyone can post anything on the web.

  26. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    13

    Default Re: New Seabright Skiff

    Should I use Epoxy or a 3M 4200 type sealant to secure the butt block along with screws?

  27. #27
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    South Puget Sound/summer Eastern carib./winter
    Posts
    9,790

    Default Re: New Seabright Skiff

    thickened epoxy, no screws.
    temp screws to give temp stationary contact, after scraping the oil outta the way.

  28. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    13

    Default Re: New Seabright Skiff

    Well, here we are in the heatwave and I just finished the repairs. I patched her as suggested, found some other leaks and patched with thickened epoxy and wood plugs, replaced screws, tightened rivets . I've been soaking her for a week now on the trailer and she has tightened up to the point where very little water drains - actually no leaking at all. I put a garboard drain in today so I can keep her soaked but the water drains out now rather than leaking - Test float Saturday and i'll mark the transom to cut an outboard well so I can mount my trusty 4hp Mercury.

    Once the motor mount is worked out, it is time to build a bench in the rear so I can operate the tiller controls.

    If any one has powered a similar skiff with a transom hung outboard, I'd appreciate some ideas in how to cut the transom and build the seat.

    Thanks
    Brian

  29. #29
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Location
    N.E. Connecticut.
    Posts
    3,420

    Default Re: New Seabright Skiff

    Sounds good. Let us know how you make out (I don't have any experience with an outboard on a Jersey surf boat, sorry). I just sent you a P.M. about your boat.

  30. #30
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    13

    Default Re: New Seabright Skiff

    Float test went well, just a strong leak at the keel/transom joint. It looks like some sealant will take care of it - this is where the plywood bottom and cedar transom meet. I got some good measurements of the water line so cutting in the motor well will be easier and more accurate.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •