Building Gartside 163

[Duncan S]

I have been lurking about here gaining great info from you folks and been too lazy to figure out how to post pictures. Now NewYear’s resolution here it comes, so be gentle on me, computers and photos etc.not really my thing.

It all started over 2 years ago. Mr Gartside said ‘why don’t you build traditional carvel’ I had gone to him with the intention of building wood epoxy because I had helped build a few boats this method back in my distant youth. This was great advice I am really enjoying the whole traditional build process. Most of the materials are available locally; don’t have to heat the workshop and all the usual reasons not to mess with lots of sticky glue.

So here is 163 only 19ft not as big as I first thought of building but just about as much as my limited building space will allow.


Of course this is Ireland and you will quickly get wet in an open boat in this neck of the woods so from day one she was to be a bit more covered in than drawn. Mr. G sent also sent plans of designs with a coach roof for me to work off because he didn’t have a small carvel boat drawn at the time (now has I think)


I roughed up this sketch looks very like the Maid of Endor which is no bad thing.

Of course it all started on the lofting floor.


And with a bath of molten lead


OK opened a photobucket account and learned to post pics enough for tonight --more to follow

[JoshuaIII]

Hey Duncan...
Glad to see you've started a thread!

Don'T give it up.... LOT'S of pictures are great

[Will Wheeler]

Keep it up Duncan. I like your approach, instead of dreaming of the perfect boat, just build what fits your garage. Makes it easier to justify building a larger one later!

[rbgarr]

Paul is building a 20' cruising sloop in his shop right now.

[JoshuaIII]

Paul is building a 20' cruising sloop in his shop right now.

Yes but it's cold molded, not carvel.

[trango]

Great project Duncan,

I really like the lines of #163 - she will be a beauty!

/Fredrik

[Ed Armstrong]

Nice. This should be fun to watch. I built a model of Gartside's 22-foot open boat cutter, and I added a cabin similar to your sketch to see what it would look like. Would love to build a boat in this size range some day, but I'm sticking to small boats for now.

Ed

[Duncan S]

Thanks for your coments. Which design is Paul building? Ed I would like to see your model have you a link to the page?


Lofting is a task reqired for all Gartside boats and Paul recommends it as it gives you a great feel for the boat. I certainly endorse this and although I am used to working with drawings I didn’t find it hard. Having some idea of what I was up against I set aside 4 full consecutive days because I think it would be a hard task to do a bit then come back to. Anyway finished up well ahead of schedule perhaps for the last time in this build.

By this time a large stack of Larch was seasoning outside. It came from my local timberyard; they also had good oak but were having a Celtic tiger moment and wanted a mad price for it. I chose to drive from the west coast of Ireland to the east coast of England and still came back with a few bob in my pocket plus some nice crooks for thefloors.

Getting the lead for the keel was a bit odd. Tire weights some suggest so I asked a pal in a tire shop “oh no we re-use them”. How long was it going to take me to collect1000kg of them though? Next stop on the phone to scrap merchants in Belfast the most industrial city in Ireland. I got a very very hostile reaction from them all. They would not give me a price let alone sell to me why? Don’t know but it smells like types I would have no wish to deal with have their fingers in the scrap business up there. Fate intervened and I met a sailing friend of a friend who owned a scrap yard in Ahlone and 1000kg of lead was duly loaded into the van a few days later.

Casting went OK except the brass waste melted!. What temp will brass melt at? I didn’t know then but I do now!. Re-jigged and exiting day went well and the keel was moved to the workshop and taken out the mould.

Cleaning and shaping took a few days cutting counter bores for the nuts was slow but got there in the end. It was surprisingly easy to move 1000kg of lead with just a small jack, a few rollers and some long bars.

Almost ready for some real woodwork. More later.
Fitted the beam shelf today.

[euro]

Hey Duncan

Great to see you have the thread up... I'm looking forward to this local inspiration!

Seems to have stopped blowing down here, hope all ok there - keep posting the pictures!

peter

[Ed Armstrong]

Here's my WBF post on the cutter model. I still haven't finished rigging it, because I've been hesitant to spend the money to finish it with real (model) hardware, like I should, but I'll put up some completion photos when I do: http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...e-cutter-model

[Duncan S]

Tonight some woodwork

Cutting the parts of the stem keel and stern post was all fairly straightforward working off the lofting. Paul’s plans detail exact positions for each bolt. Drilling the holes was nerve racking but only one started to go off course very early and could be brought back on track with brute force and ignorance. Now it really felt like boat building.
I set the keel on top of the lead and drilled right through the lot, hard going but worked ok.


This was all good fun but the cutting of the rabbit was looming, a job I was not confident about. I read the books, the forum and scratched my head and decided to put my confidence in the lofting and with a few exceptions cut the rabbit full depth first time. The whole stem/keel/stern post assembly could be lifted about by me and my better half so it was not hard to work on. The frustrating thing is you don’t know if you got it right till much later in the build.

Frames were also straight forward, I have built a few boats over the years and they all have them. It is just a case of carefully following the plans lofting - again.

Almost time to set the whole shebang up but first one last job the stern tube. Mr. G’s website has a section about how to do this and I just followed it to the letter and Bob’s yer uncle!


A transom is made


Finally stand up the frames and suddenly a boat appears! Great fun!


This boat barely fits in the shed in fact has to go in diagonally. So from now on we are only able to get half the boat in photos.

I braced the whole lot off the roof and concrete walls of my shed. You may think concrete is a bit plush for a boat shed but it has a tendency to blow dogs off chains here half way up a mountain in Co. Mayo. We had 60 knots gusting 70 ofbreeze twice in the last week.

More over the W/E

[Duncan S]

With the frames up and the edges faired in and a few minor adjustments made I had to figure out where to put the battens. This involved figuring out where the actual planking was going to sit. Conventional wisdom says to divide the hull into 3 sections. For a carvel virgin like me this was a daunting task and I spent many hours trying to figure it all out measuring and re-measuring To be honest I would have really liked to have a professional look over what I was doing but the nearest guy I knew with that kind of knowledge is in Co. Cork 6 hours drive away so I was on my own. Anyway a decision was finally made and Iwill have to live with it

2 part view again


Now I could give the head a rest and moved on to the fun task of getting the steam bent ribs in.

Because I’m a cheapskate at heart I wouldn’t pay out a few quid for a wallpaper striper and made the steamer out of an old kettle element and paint bucket. My insulated steam box is probably a bit ott but the insulation was lying about so I used it.


Getting theribs out the steam box and clamped into place needs to be done fast and an extra pair of hands would have been very handy. On my own I cracked my shins countless times rushing up into the boat fortunately only a few ribs cracked which I had allowed for anyway. Down the aft end they were real tight bends and a struggle some ended a bit off their spacing marks but I left them there just happy to have them in

About the time the 2 shots below were taken I wason a roll and started to fix the ribs before I coped that I forgot to fit the bilge stringer. Hey ho out came all the ribs again it happens!




planking next post.

[Dave Gray]

Duncan, this looks like a great build. The end result looks pretty cool:

http://www.gartsideboats.com/boats-f...esign-163.html

I notice that design #181 has a small cabin that looks quite like what you have sketched for yours.

[JoshuaIII]

Which design is Paul building?

Nice work Duncan it's nice to watch... And it's fun as the way you post it, it remove all the cursing and thinking time... It look like everything went smoothly

I do not know the design exact he his building, but last time I see it was about 20' cold molded inside & out. A bit too much glue for my taste, even all the backbone was laminated with 1/4" strip... It looked quite closely to your model without the cabin... I may have some pictures laying around.

But it was in the same "family" then our boat.

[sailboy3]

What fun! This is a boat after my own heart, 'specially with the cabin addition.

[Duncan S]

Dave said

I notice that design #181 has a small cabin that looks quite like what you have sketched for yours.

Yep saw that 163 -- would prefer to see it on the water though; Paul has been rattling out lots of small cruiser designs of late, all look good but were not available when I bought my plans

Joshua3 said

remove all the cursing and thinking time... It look like everything went smoothly

Yes it’s a bit odd to see it all in sequence like this. Your right about thinking time I estimate at least 1 hour or more thinking and reading etc. for every one hour spent actually working on the boat.
Anyway this thread will soon go onto real time so will look normal (slow)

Back at the boat ---- with a lot of trepidation I was ready to dig into the pile of Larch seen under the corrugated covering with a rib on it that I forgot to post yesterday.


Planking the crux of carvel construction and full of what, whys and how’s, for first timers like me. Most start planking at the garboard some also plank down from the sheer and fit a shutter or whiskey plank. The whole idea of this shutterplank scared the living daylights out of me. Correct me if I am wrong but I think this is done to allow 2 planking crews to work on a boat at the same time. As I am working alone it didn’t seem to matter if I just planked up from the garboard avoiding the dreaded shutter plank. It was good enough for Larry Padry so good enough for me. In hindsight if I ever build again I may be less cowardly.
For this single handed planking I made a couple of special clamps to hold the nails while I put the roves on. Not my idea but from Larry Padrys excellent book ‘Details of Classic Boat construction. The hull’ by the way there was suppose to be a second book for the rest of the boat – What happened Larry? We need you!
Here are the tools of the trade


And theclamp in action

S

So first off I put in a large garboard at the stern where most of it is landing on deadwood anyway followed by a second large plank very much in the way Larry Padry laid out his boat. The thinking being that we could now head for the tuck with fairly even – so to speak - planks.


And some of the even ones up front


Now theboat is 19ft and my planking stock is 23ft long and up to 14” wide. The widest point of planking after the garboard and plank 2 is just over 4” In my naivety I thought *should get full length planks all the way up the boat* ----Wrong! Boy those curves! Wild and fascinating to see how they come off the spilling batten, you would never believe a plank sitting on the bench would fit looking at where it was to sit on the boat but when you start to twist and bend it magic happens. (No I did not get any first time fitters! But a couple came close)

You can see when I got into the tuck at the bottom of the transom I decided to make the aft section of 2 planks in 2 bits and join them at a butt block that had to go in anyway. Looking at this now it doesn’t look right I’m sure there is a better way of doing it? Anybody? Even though it’s a bit late now!


Once out of the bilge area and my skill got better things started to get a lot easier.

Im getting hang of this picture posting and computer stuff I will be bugging every one all over the forum from now on!
more tomorow.

[Breakaway]

Oh to have the time/money/and design picked. Thanks for sharing this.

Kevin

[Duncan S]

Just a quickie tonight cos I’ve been pushing the torture board about all day and am abit worn out.
Shots of the planking almost done

Front end


From above



Beam shelf ready to go in was steamed 3 times to get twist and curve in


And where it is to fit with read lead painted on


We are almost up to date just a few more shots later in the week then this thread willgo onto ‘real time’ (slow)
I should say that anyone who has done any sort of project will know the reading and research that is required and I have done a lot! Much of it was here on this forumI don’t post much but I am there reading all the time. I would like to say a really big thank you to the guys who run this thing and to all of you who take the time to post stuff about your builds. There is always something to be learned from the smallest canoe to the biggest yacht. Thanks all

[sailboy3]

Quick work. From lofting to almost done planking in four days!

I am totally envious.

[Duncan Gibbs]

We Duncans don't mess about y'know!

Brilliant work Duncan! Three cheers from this quarter!

[Duncan S]

The beam shelf went in last week and the upper ends of the ribs could be trimmed off to the deck camber revealing the sheer line.



A shot of the hull from a different angle.




Now grinding away at fairing the hull and thinking about putting in the floors roughed out to shape here.

[J.Madison]

Great to see you finally got a thread up Duncan! She is sure looking good.

[JoshuaIII]

Taking shape Duncan how was the fairing of the hull?

Are those floors crooks? as Gartside floors are too shapely to be saw into a board that is not crooks or laminated...

[Duncan S]

Taking shape Duncan how was the fairing of the hull?

Are those floors crooks? as Gartside floors are too shapely to be saw into a board that is not crooks or laminated...

Fairing? - hard on the arms but when you get into it its “sort of” satisfying work

Yep grown crooks from these guys http://www.jbtimber.co.uk/products.htm specialising in boat building timber. It’s an interesting yard to visit with huge machinery most of it looks like it has been there forever – but it works!

My friend down the road has kindly offered to plane the floors up for me because they are too big for my small 6 inch planer. This small planer was also bit of a pain when getting planks out the up to 14 inch wide boards. I had to rough the plank out from the spilling batten and cut it with the skill saw. Then plane it and mark it accurately with the spilling batten.

I’m pondering about drilling these floors for the keel bolts. Simple option is just to set up guide battens and go for it with a ¾ auger bit. Another possibility is to drill at ½ and make a 3/8 boring bar to correct any auger drill drift. Then a ½ bitis more lightly to drift than a 3/4 is it? Hummmm better do a few tests think. Meanwhile I will go back to fairing the hull and ponder a bit more. Any thoughts?

[JoshuaIII]

Lucky you

Auger bit doesn't work well at all for these job, you have to modify them. The spiral above the cutter is too sharp so when you drill, it move a bit and make the hole bigger then needed. So you have to file it dull all around it. You will have a better hole this way.

The best is really a regular bit welding to a rod 1/64" smaller then the bolt.

[Matti]

Hi Duncan!
You have very good looking boat.
You wrote;
Now theboat is 19ft and my planking stock is 23ft long and up to 14” wide. The widest point of planking after the garboard and plank 2 is just over 4” In my naivety I thought *should get full length planks all the way up the boat* ----Wrong! Boy those curves! Wild and fascinating to see how they come off the spilling batten, you would never believe a plank sitting on the bench would fit looking at where it was to sit on the boat but when you start to twist and bend it magic happens. (No I did not get any first time fitters! But a couple came close)

There must be much difference of shape to design 109 , because I would be needed only 6" plank to cut all but carboards and upper 4. Bottom planking up from bilge area is 5,5" middle 3" transom, 3,5" stem (or something like that) and they are straight.
Upper 4 planks are very edge curvature because sheer line, it raises from middle of the boat about 60cm to stem.
I steamed only fourth pair, so much twist, all the rest gone cold in place.
Larch is stiffer, did you steam all?
And you too rely to SP epoxy.
Fairig; maybe plugging first, all in the same way ?

Matti

[Alex Low]

Hiya Duncan.


She looks beautiful! Nice planking job.

Pretty exciting to see this boat go together...

Alex

[Duncan S]

Hi Matti nice to here from you I hope you are enjoying your boat after all the hard work building it (you too Alex)
At 19ft long and over 8ft wide 163 is a curvy little boat and as you say twist is what causes difficulty. Larch is ok to bend and I only had to steam 4 planks 2 each side in the mid sections.

No epoxy in this build yet, I may use it later but I find it a real pain to use in our damp climate.

[Larks]

I don't know how I missed this Duncan, wonderful job mate!!!

[Matti]

Hi Matti nice to here from you I hope you are enjoying your boat after all the hard work building it (you too Alex)
At 19ft long and over 8ft wide 163 is a curvy little boat and as you say twist is what causes difficulty. Larch is ok to bend and I only had to steam 4 planks 2 each side in the mid sections.

No epoxy in this build yet, I may use it later but I find it a real pain to use in our damp climate.

I enjoyed it for 595 nm and to autumn it gone better and better, first there was so much to remember because all was new and there are many lines to handle.
There was much interest, who, when, where people asked in marinas and many motorboats going by take quick turn and take nearby.

Epoxy; yes I noticed that you have no heat in your shed, maybe it is good for fairing.
Do you launch and sail next summer?

Matti

[Duncan S]

Do you launch and sail next summer?

Matti

Oh the deadline question

Very un-lightly because I work on the boat in spare time and when I don't have any paying work. Mind you the way things are here at the moment there will be a lot of boat building but that makes money very tight ye can't win!

I also have a 1/2 share in a 30ft yacht that we sail a good bit in the summer. (keep it quiet it's plastic)

[Matti]

Oh the deadline question

Very un-lightly because I work on the boat in spare time and when I don't have any paying work. Mind you the way things are here at the moment there will be a lot of boat building but that makes money very tight ye can't win!

I also have a 1/2 share in a 30ft yacht that we sail a good bit in the summer. (keep it quiet it's plastic)

I certainly know, I had and have spare time (retired) but all the years I had to have paying work several months for financing boat building. Do not hurry, there will be new year after other. I found that the little things are time consuming, still haven´t made dish locers etc.( now I renovate a small flat)
You use so fine (expensive) material that I haven´t money, it is good for resale value!!
I had very good advice; if the work jams, leave tools and walk away, start tomorrow, I don´t know if you need any that kind advice?

[Larks]

Bump!!! How's it going Duncan?

[Duncan S]

In response to Lark’s bump a little update.

I have been fairing the hull over the last few weeks; the question I wondered before starting this job was when to stop? It is hard to see what sort of finish is achieved without paint on the boat. This answers its self to anyone like me with a 53 year old body that has spent time on their knees pushing a long board above their head while dribbling into a dust mask. The job is done now and even if when the paint goes on it looks like a relief map of the mountains there is nothing anyone can say to hurt me.

All this grunt work doesn’t exactly give any great photos so just for entertainments sake all boat builders have dogs don’t they? Have a look at the sketches in Bud McIntosh’s book! Here is mine only good for stealing wedges and chewing them beyond use.


I’m now opening a few tight joints and patching the odd knot in the planking and will mark the waterline soon. Caulking the hull is looming another of those daunting jobs I have been doing a lot of reading on.

My plan of action is to poison the joints with Cuprinol 5* then caulk, and red lead paint over as I go.

I wonder where to go after this? Should I go just go ahead and put in the seam compound in (red and white lead putty) and give the whole hull a coat of primer? I would appreciate your thoughts bearing in mind the boat will be in the shop for at least another year if not 2 before seeing the water. I am not overly concerned about the hull drying out as she is not in a heated shed and we have a very damp island climate here on the west coast of Ireland.

Will post a few pics when there is cotton in theseams.

[Matti]

When I look you picture, I am certain that surface is good enough, more than enough!
You have best adhesion when you paint just after fairing, when the wood "comes old" adhesion is weak?
I painted red lead as the first primer outside.

In this stage I started impregnation with linseed oil,first I sprayed mildew protection, water based , with garden sprayer,in oil I used 10-15% turpentine as thinner and 3% zinc napthenate to prevent rot.
Mary III has 210 l linseed oil in whole structure, 185 l in hull.

Matti

[Duncan S]

When I look you picture, I am certain that surface is good enough, more than enough!
You have best adhesion when you paint just after fairing, when the wood "comes old" adhesion is weak?
I painted red lead as the first primer outside.

In this stage I started impregnation with linseed oil,first I sprayed mildew protection, water based , with garden sprayer,in oil I used 10-15% turpentine as thinner and 3% zinc napthenate to prevent rot.
Mary III has 210 l linseed oil in whole structure, 185 l in hull.

Matti

Wow Matti; I know it is traditional to use oil in Scandinavia 210L that is a lot!

I would be interested to know in a little more detail your process of impregnating with linseed oil through to final paint layer i.e.how many coats of linseed oil boiled or raw, thinned or not and undercoat and primer etc.

I like the idea of mildew protection but have no idea where to buy zinc naphthenate. I have Cuprinol 5* so will probably run with that.

Duncan

[Matti]

Hi!
210 l is not very much, because I had very good quality pine, more than half of wood is red old growth. If all wood is pale surface wood it takes much more oil.

It is crucial to use raw oil, boiled oil makes quickly surface like varnish.
It took me about two months to impregnate and after that you must let it dry about month or so before priming (depending temperature,in warm 2 weeks ). How many- very many, three to five times/ day-after week it takes slower, then once /day, garden pump is must!
Oily rags are dangerous, may heat and flame!
That time I stopped;http://www.freewebs.com/maryii/apps/...otoid=26582691
there were some shining places which does not suck anymore, don't make skin, before painting that must scrape away and sand.
When oil was dried, I sanded the surface 80 grit, one red lead, 2x yacht primer(Hempels), bottom 2x antifouling, sides 2x multicoat, 2x brilliant, little sanding between.

I think cuprinol is fine, I looked internet.
I used pine turpentine as thinner, but many boatbuilder use basic preservative??, mostly white spirits and some "poisons" from house paint shop, here the most cheapest white spirit.(maybe some advance to mildew protection)
Some uses 50/50, but I used much less thinner, only 10-15%, just to absorbed nicely.
Maybe there is no reason to fully saturation on your boat as larch is very rot resistant, but some 5-10 times oil is very good base for painting.
If you are in hurry, use final Hempel impreg 1, it dries 2-5 days for painting.

http://www.puuvenekorjaamo.net/, look projects, specially two mahongany T/ (and maybe blue sailing boat renovation)
Might be some odd translation??(pellavaöljysekoituksella=shop made linseed mix, ready to use)
Many times un- is missing; impregnated=unimpregnated!

Matti

Some addition;
I purchased linseed oil from farmer, 200l drum, full, full=225 l, I payed 350€, inc VAT, 10l zinc napth. was 220€, used 7l (left 3 l)(one l=30€), turpentine was and is quite expensive thinner, maybe then 4-5€/l
Some might doubt epoxy adhesion to oil saturated wood
http://www.freewebs.com/maryii/apps/...otoid=26582693, plywood bulkhead fully saturated, cockpit is coated epoxy and glass, no problem!

[Duncan S]

Matti, Thanks for all the links and info. Looking at your boat again I have to say again it just looks wonderful and a credit to your skill and workmanship –enjoy it!

I assume the caulking and paying of the seems is done after Impregnation? Seam compound is red/white lead putty? I am undecided as to where to go on my own project as yet but will post up my plan after some more study and consideration

[Matti]

Matti, Thanks for all the links and info. Looking at your boat again I have to say again it just looks wonderful and a credit to your skill and workmanship –enjoy it!

I assume the caulking and paying of the seems is done after Impregnation? Seam compound is red/white lead putty? I am undecided as to where to go on my own project as yet but will post up my plan after some more study and consideration

Thanks, now I took an second look my self, on small picture Mary III looks fine.When you are building on your knees very close, you see only all voids not the big picture! My building is sum of errors, but not bad for first carvel boat.

Sorry if I made confusion in your mind!
There is an third opinion between only painting and fully impregnation, have some 4-5 times oil as very good base for painting, specially care to plank ends.
Meanwhile time to make deck beams etc.
I dont know which is better before or after caulking ? More confusing?
There are many ways to build a boat, none are wrong!

I made the seams scandinavian closeup like, there is no caulking cap, only 4mm cotton rope in groove middle of planks edge.
http://www.freewebs.com/maryii/apps/...otoid=26582659, special tool, made 5mm brass screw, cut and rounded.
Groove is pressed, no cutting. The meaning is have no paying, but it was very much rain that autumn when I was planking and planks moisture content was 13-14%, maybe little too much, should be 12%, when winter heating made some open seams I put little sika 291 to opened seams prevent leaking on launhcing, now it has pressed out, I will cut it with sharp chisel.

[Duncan S]

Time for a little update. Some good work done on 163 due to paying work being very thin on the ground. In 25 years of self employment I have never had a run of so little work. Many of the young men from my village that worked in the building trade have left Ireland and gone to Australia or Canada. It’s all getting a little scary. That’s enough of that doom and gloom though at least I look forward to getting up and into the boat shed every morning.

Finishing the hull fairing, tidying up the seams and marking the waterline took a lot longer than expected but hey that’s boats for you. While at these jobs I did a lot of study on Matti`s Scandinavian methods of linseed oil impregnation (see his links above) I know the scientists say the is no benefit but I feel there is something good about what they are doing up there. However what works for them may not suit me in wet wet Ireland. So not wanting to end up with a sticky gooey mess full of mildew I will be sticking with more traditional methods for this part of the globe. Before caulking I will spray the whole hull in cuprinol and give it a few weeks to dry. After caulking and painting over the cotton in red lead primer I will pay with red / white lead putty and prime the hull with what? Red lead paint is eye wateringly expensive. I may make my own or use aluminium primer what do you folks think?

Here’s all the kit for the next big challenge my €20 eBay mallet has obviously done some good mileage already so will hopefully help me on the way. One or 2 strands evenly well hammered in according to the designer.


The big picture shot now that the building frames are out it really feels like a boat when you’re inside cleaning up.


Meanwhile over in my mate Pauls boat shed he ran the floors through his 12” planer for me.


In the background you can see some of his excellent work.He also lent me a compass plane for shaping in those pesky floors. He is threatening to build something bigger – much bigger I will be over with a pair of hands to pay back his kindness.

[Matti]

Hi Duncan! Very sorry to hear that the situation is so bad there, all taught I knew it, it has been on news, now Greek has been the news for many months, Ireland situation gone background.
Sometimes I wander, what the politicians have in their mind or nothing?
Twenty years ago, when lots of people moved to Helsinki area, they calculated steady 20% annual growth of population??? how, only 5 million people in Finland, if you have the basics math. skill you must understand what is possible.
Best to think positively, we have no hurricanes!

It is good to have decision how to go forward, it makes things easier!
If you have this http://www.powergrip.co.uk/power%20t...20Plane%20.htm, then it is fast to fit floors.
I have that but little too late, it would be very handy when I made bevels to frames. I had it as payment for engine installation.
How much is the asking price for red lead? My red lead is Hempels, someone says it is no real red led?, I remember it was 100€/5kg?
http://www.pinmar.com/docs/Productos...mpel/12370.PDF, yes it isn't the real one.
Rylard Minio Di Piombo, one red lead, no one dealer have online price, oh now I have one; 44,60€/0,75l, is this you mean?

[Duncan S]

Happy St Patrick’sDay.
To mark the day I did a bit of bilge decoration.

I have been working on getting the 9 main floor timbers in all are through bolted to the lead casting. First I made a rough template from scrap ply etc. and transferred this to the grown oak crooks. Then drilled for the keel bolts and fitted in place. I then started to shape by scribing with an old pointy set of compasses keeping them at 90 degrees to the keel bolt.




Then off to the band saw and vice for spoke shave and compass plane work (several times for each one)
When things were getting close a bit of powder helps to get things just so and may keep the bilge smelling good.




I now have all of them in place ready for a bit of a clean up and priming. Here you can see a stick coming out of the stern tube as I have started to work out details of the engine bearers.



Up front a fairly substantial mast step is through bolted.

[Sailor]

I love the clover. I've kept a copy of that picture and saved it to my "good ideas" folder. My boat may not have a clover but something engraved like that is a great idea.

[Bernadette]

duncan
this is just such a lovely boat you are building. such beautiful fine work!
thank you for sharing this with us all.
and yes, the little time momento (clover) is sweet!
fantastic!
your four legged friend must be having a great time 'helping' out in the shed. dogs do make great boat building comapnions for sure!

[Duncan S]

Thanks for you nice comments guys. ----------- But hurp humm it’s supposed to be a shamrock

Might go for a Maple leaf on 1^st July

What’s a gum tree leaf look like Bern?(You have until 26^th January 2013 to answer )

[PeterSibley]

Happy St Patrick’sDay.
To mark the day I did a bit of bilge decoration.

I have been working on getting the 9 main floor timbers in all are through bolted to the lead casting. First I made a rough template from scrap ply etc. and transferred this to the grown oak crooks. Then drilled for the keel bolts and fitted in place. I then started to shape by scribing with an old pointy set of compasses keeping them at 90 degrees to the keel bolt.




Then off to the band saw and vice for spoke shave and compass plane work (several times for each one)
When things were getting close a bit of powder helps to get things just so and may keep the bilge smelling good.




I now have all of them in place ready for a bit of a clean up and priming. Here you can see a stick coming out of the stern tube as I have started to work out details of the engine bearers.



Up front a fairly substantial mast step is through bolted.

Duncan, those are the BEST looking floors I've seen in an age !!!

[Duncan Gibbs]

Beautiful work Duncan! I agree with Peter one hundred percent!

[Bernadette]

ooopss!my apologies duncan. of course i knew it was a shamrock!i bet you muttered something like "ignorant bloody lot, those colonials.."

[Larks]

Lovely lovely work Duncan, I'm inspired by the shamrock mate, and very nicely executed!!! fhéadfadh sé a thabhairt duit luck maith agus sonas mór.
Sláinte!!

[trango]

Beautiful floors and a great thread!


/Fredrik