Antipodean Boats Connection

[Phil Y]

I think the version I know is Good enough for government work.

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[RFNK]

My mother used to say 'good enough for the bush'.

Rick

[Geftb]

Oldie but a goodie...

[Geftb]

Hey Rick. An epoxy primer question.
Do I need to wipe the surface down with acetone before priming?
or just sand, dust off, paint?
Cheers
steve

[John B]

So, JB, it wasn't that it was the worst trip you'd ever been on?

And we call it a packet of chips.

Rick

What trip? Oh.
I awook late after the last 2 weeks punishing schedule ,it's calm, there is sun, there is no food. Wait, is that a can of some kind of carbohydrate or starch soaked in tomato sauce.......mmmmm.

[RFNK]

Hey Rick. An epoxy primer question.
Do I need to wipe the surface down with acetone before priming?
or just sand, dust off, paint?
Cheers
steve

Is it glass? It's on glass, then you can put epoxy primer straight on up until about 24 hours. After that, you should sand then wipe down with Prepsol (or similar) before priming. Or acetone if it seems a bit waxy. What seems to happen is that you get little pools of dust in the pits and grooves that are left in glass, so the Prepsol or acetone is good to wash those out.

Rick

[auscruisertom]

What trip? Oh.
I awook late after the last 2 weeks punishing schedule ,it's calm, there is sun, there is no food. Wait, is that a can of some kind of carbohydrate or starch soaked in tomato sauce.......mmmmm.

Sounds like you need some crayfish to go with your spaghetti, this interesting breakfast combination we became accustomed to while hanging with Cook Islanders and Kiwis spending weekends on One Foot Motu in Aitutaki.

[Geftb]

Is it glass? It's on glass, then you can put epoxy primer straight on up until about 24 hours. After that, you should sand then wipe down with Prepsol (or similar) before priming. Or acetone if it seems a bit waxy. What seems to happen is that you get little pools of dust in the pits and grooves that are left in glass, so the Prepsol or acetone is good to wash those out.

Rick

its majority pre painted finish. Basically I'm aiming to get my boat undercoating this weekend.
I will just wipe it all with acetone to be sure.

[auscruisertom]

Another larger spar for the Tammie not bad for some roadside scrap even with about 10 doweled nail holes and as many knots. I quite like the Cetol Marine Teak Wood Oil Varnish.
Last count I now have 8 spars stashed in around my boat shed.
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[Geftb]

19 bucks!!! What a bargain!! Looks great

[RFNK]

its majority pre painted finish. Basically I'm aiming to get my boat undercoating this weekend.
I will just wipe it all with acetone to be sure.

If it's pre-painted then of course you'll have to sand before you wipe it down, but not much.

Rick

[RFNK]

19 bucks!!! What a bargain!! Looks great

I'll bet it came from Bunnings. I just happened to go into Bunnings one day about a year ago and they were selling off all their marine paints at ridiculous (i.e., very good!) prices so i bought all that was left - 2 tins of Cetol Marine, a 4L can of Toplac White and something else. I wish I'd known about it sooner! Toplac is great paint, by the way.

Rick

[Geftb]

Its all sanded. Well, almost. Can I just wipe it down with water and paint the next day?

years ago I ordered some penatrol "marine" from the local hardware, it took a couple of weeks to get there. Ended up being delivered by the penotrol rep himself. He went on to tell me that there is no difference between there marine and everyday penatrol. Simply the lable. I do wonder if its the same with sikkens? I can get 10liters of teak decking oil for the same price as 4 litres of "marine" oil. Both take the number 7 over top?? Any ideas?

[Phil Y]

I've just finished the first round of sanding my decks and the top of my topsides. My arms hurt. Maybe should have just left the peel ply on for now and come back next week. It's hot and windy and horrible. I have other obligations tomorrow so won't be getting to the boat. And the next 3 days after that the forecasters think it's still April Fools and are forecasting rain. To be honest I doubt it. So my plan is to do a bit more sanding another day. Probably Sunday. Then when it's suitable which will be anywhere from Sunday to Thursday, give it a pressure wash, let it dry and put the primer on. And then do more sanding. Ive never been great with sanding. Don't have the patience. So I'm thinking I'd rather sand primer/filler which is designed to be sanded, rather than epoxy which is designed to be rock hard. The main area where I'm concerned that my laziness will come back to haunt me is epoxy drips down the topsides to the rubbing strake. Do I need to eliminate them before I prime, or just close to?

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[WX]

Winds up around 90 kmh on Eyre Peninsular I hear.

[auscruisertom]

I'll bet it came from Bunnings. I just happened to go into Bunnings one day about a year ago and they were selling off all their marine paints at ridiculous (i.e., very good!) prices so i bought all that was left - 2 tins of Cetol Marine, a 4L can of Toplac White and something else. I wish I'd known about it sooner! Toplac is great paint, by the way.
Rick

Bunnings it was. I only bought It because of your recommendation and the price of course,wish I would have bought the other three cans also.
And yes Toplac is a very good paint,I just colour my own with free tint from the Dulux Trade Ctr.

[John B]

I've just finished the first round of sanding my decks and the top of my topsides. My arms hurt. Maybe should have just left the peel ply on for now and come back next week. It's hot and windy and horrible. I have other obligations tomorrow so won't be getting to the boat. And the next 3 days after that the forecasters think it's still April Fools and are forecasting rain. To be honest I doubt it. So my plan is to do a bit more sanding another day. Probably Sunday. Then when it's suitable which will be anywhere from Sunday to Thursday, give it a pressure wash, let it dry and put the primer on. And then do more sanding. Ive never been great with sanding. Don't have the patience. So I'm thinking I'd rather sand primer/filler which is designed to be sanded, rather than epoxy which is designed to be rock hard. The main area where I'm concerned that my laziness will come back to haunt me is epoxy drips down the topsides to the rubbing strake. Do I need to eliminate them before I prime, or just close to?

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I get the impression someone has put the wind up you about epoxy and uv , Phil. Yes epoxy is not stable when exposed to sunlight, but you have time and plenty of it to coat it. A few days or a week or so is nothing in the scheme of things.

[Phil Y]

Great.Thats kind of what I thought. Some patches like the foredeck I didn't use peel ply as I was well advanced by then and not worried about a week or two of exposure. At the start I thought I might still be putting ply on he deck next spring. It's all gone quicker than I expected. It's more that if I don't get primer in until Thursday there will be a layer of salt and sand and, as it happens, the best Eyre Peninsula top soil all over the deck. Ideally I'd have sanded one fine day and painted the next. A pressure wash is no great hassle. What do you think about the topside drips? Keep sanding, or prime then sand? I'm no perfectionist but don't want it looking like Captain Ron's boat either. I've sanded them quite a bit but you can certainly still feel them. The first photo is the worst bit. I just don't know what to expect of primer/filler.

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[Geftb]

Wipe off with acetone when its wet.
Otherwise I would try a heat gun and scraper

[Phil Y]

Great.Thats kind of what I thought. Some patches like the foredeck I didn't use peel ply as I was well advanced by then and not worried about a week or two of exposure. At the start I thought I might still be putting ply on he deck next spring. It's all gone quicker than I expected. It's more that if I don't get primer in until Thursday there will be a layer of salt and sand and, as it happens, the best Eyre Peninsula top soil all over the deck. Ideally I'd have sanded one fine day and painted the next. A pressure wash is no great hassle. What do you think about the topside drips? Keep sanding, or prime then sand? I'm no perfectionist but don't want it looking like Captain Ron's boat either. I've sanded them quite a bit but you can certainly still feel them. The first photo is the worst bit. I just don't know what to expect of primer/filler.

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Wiping off when wet is a great idea and I know I should have. Lots going on though and in some areas not reachable due to wet deck. Heat gun maybe but I don't want to damage the paint and glass underneath.

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[Phil Y]

I don't know why I quoted my own post but you know what I meant

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[RFNK]

Its all sanded. Well, almost. Can I just wipe it down with water and paint the next day?

years ago I ordered some penatrol "marine" from the local hardware, it took a couple of weeks to get there. Ended up being delivered by the penotrol rep himself. He went on to tell me that there is no difference between there marine and everyday penatrol. Simply the lable. I do wonder if its the same with sikkens? I can get 10liters of teak decking oil for the same price as 4 litres of "marine" oil. Both take the number 7 over top?? Any ideas?

Yes and I don't know. John B reckons it's the same but it seems different to me.

Rick

[RFNK]

Great.Thats kind of what I thought. Some patches like the foredeck I didn't use peel ply as I was well advanced by then and not worried about a week or two of exposure. At the start I thought I might still be putting ply on he deck next spring. It's all gone quicker than I expected. It's more that if I don't get primer in until Thursday there will be a layer of salt and sand and, as it happens, the best Eyre Peninsula top soil all over the deck. Ideally I'd have sanded one fine day and painted the next. A pressure wash is no great hassle. What do you think about the topside drips? Keep sanding, or prime then sand? I'm no perfectionist but don't want it looking like Captain Ron's boat either. I've sanded them quite a bit but you can certainly still feel them. The first photo is the worst bit. I just don't know what to expect of primer/filler.

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Sand it off now and the primer will fill the sanding marks. Primer will fill sanding marks but won't cover resin runs. Primer is thick but a lot thinner than fairing goop. The smoother you get it prior to priming, the easier everything else will be. Use 80 grit.

Rick

[Phil Y]

That's pretty much what I feared. Sometimes I just need a bit of encouragement to do the right thing. Thanks.

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[WX]

Those runs are a bugger to sand out. If you have a light hand a flapper disc on an angle grinder gets rid of most of it pretty quick.

[Phil Y]

Those runs are a bugger to sand out. If you have a light hand a flapper disc on an angle grinder gets rid of most of it pretty quick.

I might give that a go, thanks. In fact they are probably 3/4 gone, a few new discs on a new day, job done.

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[RFNK]

That's what I would use but you seem pretty handy with a belt sander.

Rick

[Phil Y]

Nah id be too frightened to use a belt on there now. Just using a random Orbital. Are you saying disc on angle grinder or RO?

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[Geftb]

Thanks Rick!

i find epoxy needs very little heat to lift it. I don't see it damaging the paint.
Sanding runs I find to be a b:$&@ch.

[WX]

Nah id be too frightened to use a belt on there now. Just using a random Orbital. Are you saying disc on angle grinder or RO?

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Yeah I used a 4" angle grinder to get the down low then a beltsander. I did have a sanding disc on the 8" but it flew apart on me while going the cabin top....scared the excrement out of me!

[Geftb]

I've a variable speed disk sander which is grouse. Disk sander on a angle grinder is another beast which I haven't mastered

[Phil Y]

Okey dokey. Might try a bit of heat and a scraper or chisel. Might try my trusty angle grinder, maybe 80 grit rather than my usual 24. Of course this is all done kneeling on the deck, hanging over the side. No toe rails, no fence. Nothing much. Except where I can do it from the marina berth, which is nice.

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[Geftb]

You may even be able to just heat the chisel and not directly on the boat?? You will soon find out if it works

[RFNK]

I often use just flat discs rather than flappers. With flat discs, as long as the nut doesn't protrude, you can sand with the disc flat on the surface and avoid any dig-ins. It's easy with a small grinder. You often have to cut little slots from the hole in the disc to get it to lay flat.

Rick

[Phil Y]

You may even be able to just heat the chisel and not directly on the boat?? You will soon find out if it works

Might be worth a try

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