Antipodean Boats Connection

[Phil Y]

Bloody unsafe those rowlocks. And the worst thing is you butcher your boat to fit the bastards and only then discover they are garbage. That's bull**** right there.

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[Phil Y]

Matt, that looks scary. I hope a Dutch person and some glass does the job.

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[Phil Y]

More deck, bottom layer, port side. 2 sheets of ply fitted glued and screwed today. Probably ought to put those shrouds back on.

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[Phil Y]

I also happened to find a source of narrow butyl tape. Adelaide Moulding and Casting supplies. Apparently it's used for vacuum bagging. 15 metres $20

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[WX]

Good luck Matt, hope it's not deep.

[auscruisertom]

Matt don’t get too discouraged clean it out and just make sure no worms are left behind then shape some decent wood with plenty of thickened epoxy.

I once worked on SV Destiny a 50 plus foot Hollywood movie set classic . We bogged up around 50 plank ends that where rotten due to iron fasteners and I just don’t mean 50 mm. The majority where above the waterline and despite what I would refer to as bogie repairs she saliled back to Frisco from Hawai .

[MattSplatt]

I'm not discouraged. Either way, it is what it is.
At present it looks like a sane repair can be made.

[RFNK]

As long as good, durable timber is used (e.g., PNG rosewood is what I always use now but merbau etc. would be fine), simply filling the new void with a well glued in block and epoxy filler will be stronger than the original. The main challenge will be making sure that the gluing surfaces on the remaining timber are all dry and solid. A heat gun and chisel should sort that out. Good luck!

Rick

[MattSplatt]

There's a short but hefty lump of spotted gum here that's an odd shape because it's an aborted attempt at a new upper stem section. I'll use a bit of that.

Yes, a clean mating surface and a good fit are the goals I'm focusing on.

[Phil Y]

Finally some cooler weather here. Nothing over 30 for the foreseeable future. Hallelujah autumn. Today's plan is more destruction. Port cockpit coaming and seat and the remainder of the port side deck. Having started on the port side I figure I might as well get that all done before I start any glassing. Just procrastinating, and sticking with what I know before I venture once more into uncharted waters. Fibreglassing scares me. No doubt it will be fine.

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[RFNK]

There's a short but hefty lump of spotted gum here that's an odd shape because it's an aborted attempt at a new upper stem section. I'll use a bit of that.

Yes, a clean mating surface and a good fit are the goals I'm focusing on.

Spotted gum may not be the best choice. It's not a very stable timber so it'll swell a lot when wet and shrink a lot when it dries. That can cause problems if it's glued to everything else. It might be okay but when working it out, consider how it will affect what's around it when it swells.

Rick

[Phil Y]

That would be stable like a stable genius.

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[Phil Y]

Bruce these are my plastic rowlocks. Bought from Whitworths in about 1998 and been kept in the sun most of the time since. I don't trust them, but as you can see they haven't broken. I don't know if it means anything but they are stamped pnp 77


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[Phil Y]

Hmm, I think it stands for Pacific Nylon Plastics, an Australian marine plastics manufacturer.

[RFNK]

Your rowing might just be less enthusiastic! It seems to me that Bruce's rowlocks are from a bad batch! Rubber duckies all seem to have plastic rowlocks, lasting years. Although, maybe that's because they all have little outboards ..... I think I'll stick with (my) gal!

Rick

[RFNK]

Phil, how are you taking all these impromptu photos? Do you take them with your phone, then email them to your computer, then edit them down to a manageable size, then save them, then paste them into the WBF? Or do you have a better method?

Rick

[brucemoffatt]

Bruce these are my plastic rowlocks. Bought from Whitworths in about 1998 and been kept in the sun most of the time since. I don't trust them, but as you can see they haven't broken. I don't know if it means anything but they are stamped pnp 77


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I'll bring a sample of my busted ones for comparison. Mine are unbranded and the detailing is indistinct. I may be wrong (I was once) but I suspect that the ones you have are the pattern for a cheap knock-off.

For info, the black ones I have are branded BLA and have been used on Romana, a much heavier load, using the same stumpy oars and with racing oars, and have been subjected to much higher forces (happy pancake day) than the cream exploders.


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[RFNK]

I was looking for portholes a while ago, but not for a boat, but I recall someone else was also on the lookout for some. These seem okay - they're advertised as brass but I'm sure they'd be bronze:

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/thor...ass/1210884736

Rick

[MattSplatt]

Spotted gum may not be the best choice. It's not a very stable timber so it'll swell a lot when wet and shrink a lot when it dries. That can cause problems if it's glued to everything else. It might be okay but when working it out, consider how it will affect what's around it when it swells.

Rick

Ah. Thank you for that.
I have some PNG rosewood too, but I always think of it as too soft for that sort of work for some reason. Is PNG rosewood preferred over most of what I could easily lay hands on? What's the ideal timber to use?
The new stem upper stem that Deagons put in is spottie (the piece I have was their first try), but of course isn't glued to anything.

[MattSplatt]

I could only work half a day today 'cause I'm needed elsewhere this arvo. I removed the bobstay chainplate (you folks know how big an achievement it can sometimes be to remove two bolts).
And I've squared out the hole to the length marked with cross cuts in the photo yesterday, plus further up an inch or so under where the chainplate was.
Square as in V shaped with the faces aligned with the plank ends, which aren't disturbed yet. It's looking decent. I'm well into good timber at the ends. The middle where the big hole was, I'll have to go a little bit deeper, but another 15mm or so will probably get me there. Only tiny guys there now. No photos today.

[MattSplatt]

Don't stick your tongue out the side of your mouth when chiselling worm-ridden timber out of a boat. They don't taste good raw!

[auscruisertom]

I'm not discouraged. Either way, it is what it is.
At present it looks like a sane repair can be made.

Good to hear that.
The stem area below the dolphin striker is more likely to have worm prolems due to its prominent position,so be sure to isolate the existing stem timber to the new wood with plenty of epoxy as that will create a worm barrier for the future. Anyhow you probably know all that.

[brucemoffatt]

Arawana has her tender. 2.2 nm row from Largs to berth in 12-15 knots @ 2.1 knots achieved boat speed.



I replaced the rowlocks with steel pinned jobbies.



Me looking intrepid before setting off.




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[Phil Y]

This is Bruce at the end of a successful voyage from Largs to North Haven.

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[Phil Y]

Look mum, no cockpit sides

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[RFNK]

Ah. Thank you for that.
I have some PNG rosewood too, but I always think of it as too soft for that sort of work for some reason. Is PNG rosewood preferred over most of what I could easily lay hands on? What's the ideal timber to use?
The new stem upper stem that Deagons put in is spottie (the piece I have was their first try), but of course isn't glued to anything.

Spotted gum is good above the waterline and for internal members like frames. Just not great in places where it'll become saturated, especially if gluing's involved, because it'll swell and tear the glue joints. PNG rosewood is durable and glues really well. It's certainly hard enough for a block to replace that bit of rotten stem. Merbau is harder - I'm just not sure how well it takes glue. Tallow wood doesn't glue well. I'd use the PNG rosewood. You could as Peter K what he thinks but I'd just use the rosewood.

Rick

[RFNK]

Look mum, no cockpit sides

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Very good - now, how about answering my question about posting photos?

Rick

[brucemoffatt]

Just too long, but a smaller tender won't work as a tender. This one is happy in a slop and blow so I'll manage around the foredeck access limitations.





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[brucemoffatt]

Thinking, thanks to Phil, of raising the bow of Marawana up a little onto a shelf. Not as high as this mockup.




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[Phil Y]

Very good - now, how about answering my question about posting photos?

Rick

What was the question?

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[Phil Y]

Don't stick your tongue out the side of your mouth when chiselling worm-ridden timber out of a boat. They don't taste good raw!

Sauteed for just a moment over a high flame, and served with a touch of chilli though, wow!

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[Phil Y]

Moving right along

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[RFNK]

What was the question?

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post #46327

Rick

[MattSplatt]

Spotted gum is good above the waterline and for internal members like frames. Just not great in places where it'll become saturated, especially if gluing's involved, because it'll swell and tear the glue joints. PNG rosewood is durable and glues really well. It's certainly hard enough for a block to replace that bit of rotten stem. Merbau is harder - I'm just not sure how well it takes glue. Tallow wood doesn't glue well. I'd use the PNG rosewood. You could as Peter K what he thinks but I'd just use the rosewood.

Rick

I'll use the rosewood. Too easy! Thank you for the info.

[MattSplatt]

Good to hear that.
The stem area below the dolphin striker is more likely to have worm prolems due to its prominent position,so be sure to isolate the existing stem timber to the new wood with plenty of epoxy as that will create a worm barrier for the future. Anyhow you probably know all that.

Oooh, there'll be plenty of epoxy, don't you worry about that! :-D

Also, I'm thinking about glassing the leading edge of the bow the whole way up from the lead ballast to the waterline. It would have to wrap around onto the planking a little way, which may be a stupid idea. What do youse think? I'll ask Peter K if he thinks this is nuts. He suggested glassing over the repairs along the run of the bottom, which we did, but that's all big keel timbers.