We haven't had the rain yet but its blowing a gale from the north! 30 to 40 knots in the bay! A nice wooden boat broke its mooring a few days ago when the wind was only 15 knots from the north west and luckily drifted between my boat and my mates dingy and rested in shallows protected from wave action by the marina. It's going to be a rough week.
Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication. Leonardo da Vinci.
If war is the answer........... it must be a profoundly stupid question.
My my, it’s a chilly morning here. Cutting firewood this morning so that should warm me up.![]()
Trump, a man who can't hold a coherent thought till the end of the sentence.
Define chilly
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Shed work. Cleaning up Samson posts, cleats, lazarette and sheet tracks ready to go back on. The underside of the sheet tracks is fairly ghastly. Although they look a bit better without all the grotty sealant. I don't think I can afford to replace them. Any ideas to prevent/slow corrosion where the anodising is compromised? Yeah I know I should tidy up my shed and finish those dinghys in time for the Haul of Mirrors. I'm busy OK. And inherently messy.
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Oh and another thing. What paint for under the deck? I'll leave the beams varnished, but I want the underside of the ply white. There's marine single part polyurethane. Or there's Bunnings. Water based paint lacks gloss and is too soft. I think. Has someone mentioned Berger floor paint? Oil based, glossy and tough? That's kind of the way I'm leaning at the moment. It's already epoxied, and in places where I left the bottom layer of the original deck it's painted or varnished.
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Aluminium corrosion usually occurs where you have SS fastenings. There are a few solutions. One is to use monel fastenings but they can be hard to find. I have some so if you only need a few and I have the right size, I can send you some. Another way is to isolate the SS fastenings from the aluminium by making or buying little dish-shaped washers. Ronstan supply these with their track. Another way is to set the screws through the aluminium with Tefgel or Duralac. If you use bigger screws and Duralac, the track should be okay for a few more years at least. Don't use bronze screws - they're worse than SS with aluminium.
Rick
I used garage floor paint in the engine bay.
I have some Toplac that's nice to use and good for interiors. I think any quality enamel or poly should be fine. I wouldn't use anything water-based under the deck.
Rick
You got enough dinghies there Phil?![]()
Trump, a man who can't hold a coherent thought till the end of the sentence.
Not by any stretch was it THAT cold! Didn't even have a light frost.
Waaaay back in the 80s I bought a double cassette recording of Blue Water- Seagoing Australians by Peter Fry. It's the only cassettes I've kept. Well I bought a little cassette recorder that converts cassettes to MP3 files...it arrived today and I've started recording them. Sadly it looks like one side is corrupted, which doesn't bode well for the other 3.
Trump, a man who can't hold a coherent thought till the end of the sentence.
Sad to see this today:
https://www.abc.net.au/news/2019-07-...coast/11299410
Rick
The boat looks a lot like the cat standing next to us when we were last out at Oyster Cove. I'm hoping it's not that one but I'm worried it might be. The owner's a really nice guy and I know the shipwright who'd been working on it for a very long time.
Rick
That's a thing that worries me about cats. Sad indeed.
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I'd be making up some little fibre washers and using plenty of the goop, as above. I reckon they'll be okay. If not, make some bigger washers from tufnol or fibreglass to span corroded areas.
Rick
Phil, on my mainsheet traveller track I cleaned the corroded areas around each bolt hole with one of those scotchbrite disks that fit on an angle grinder, then a thin coat of 2 part Altex etch primer on each bolt hole. A few wraps of plumbers teflon thread tape under the head of each bolt , some lanacoat or tefgel for good measure and then plenty of Sika SBN butyl sealant on the bolt and under the track. Try not to turn the bolt once its through the deck.
Thanks, the bolts have square heads so they won't be turning. So that's good. Got some Rustoleum gloss white enamel while I was looking at Jeff's new boat at Paint Supplies SA. Painting the underside of the deck starts tomorrow.
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Jeff, I wouldn't buy it, but I'm not you. Several cracked ribs and planks. Transom has been replaced sometime with ply and is not wholly intimate with the planks. Boat has sat on its keel for 50 years or so, and the bilges have quietly settled down to ground level. It doesn't show so well in the photos but the centre thwart is actually bowed up an inch or two in the centre. It's maybe not complete wreck but it's a significant rebuild.
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And more
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And even more
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Great Tom!
Rick
A bit of damage at Robe......and a H28 dragged its mooring and met with a couta boat's bow sprit in Sorrento. Damage to the bow sprit and H28 transom. I decided thismorning it was time to get my boat out of the water and into the yard at WBS.
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Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication. Leonardo da Vinci.
If war is the answer........... it must be a profoundly stupid question.
PS, Jeff I'm not sure of the practicalities of collecting that boat. It's heavy, not on a trailer and quite fragile. I wouldn't want to turn up at your place with a bundle sticks.
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The wind went west for an hour or so yesterday morning and that provided the shelter i needed to take her out. I'll post the rest up on my thread in Building and Repair : Warana 11 Blairgowrie Victoria
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Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication. Leonardo da Vinci.
If war is the answer........... it must be a profoundly stupid question.