Antipodean Boats Connection

[Aquinian]

I think they would have been, if they had the experience not to be distressed by it, but they didn’t, so they reached the end of their mental tether and pushed the button. The nav was gone, and so was their gearbox, so heaving to was the best option, but I understand that they were afraid of drifting on to a lee shore, not knowing where they really were. It really was inexperience that did them in. More experience would have changed a few earlier decisions that would have changed the outcome.

But as they say, experience is that thing you get just after you needed it.

And 60+ knots really is a good wind!

[Phil Y]

60 knots is I think we are going to die. Sails don't flap, they go like a machine gun then disappear. Never just one thing is it. Electronic nav gone, paper charts, who needs that? Gearbox gone. Tired, scared, kids on board. Can totally understand. Looking forward to the book.

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[WX]

Two minutes after my roster ended we had a call out. Someone stuck on an island in the river...we get there only to find some else has rescued him...oh well, we got in a night run.

[brucemoffatt]

60+ knots is terrifying at anchor when you know where you are and you're rested. At sea, no nav, tired... hellish I'd imagine.


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[Phil Y]

Try it in a Tumlare, down the bottom of Spencer's Gulf, with Dangerous Reef somewhere to leeward. Couldn't they at least have called it Snapper Reef or something?

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[brucemoffatt]

Try it in a Tumlare, down the bottom of Spencer's Gulf, with Dangerous Reef somewhere to leeward. Couldn't they at least have called it Snapper Reef or something?

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If it was easy anyone could do it

It used to be called Snapper Reef apparently. That was before the white sharks ate all the snapper.


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[Phil Y]

Yeah but you could call a Great White a snapper.

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[Phil Y]

Rick a while back you said you'd be doing a patch up on kiwigrip on your cockpit floor. How did it go? If it went yet. I haven't quite decided whether to go kiwigrip or 2 part International with grippy granules. I'm not sure whether either patches well, but I guess kiwigrip is more susceptible to wear.

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[RFNK]

Two minutes after my roster ended we had a call out. Someone stuck on an island in the river...we get there only to find some else has rescued him...oh well, we got in a night run.

Must have been Friday.

Rick

[RFNK]

Rick a while back you said you'd be doing a patch up on kiwigrip on your cockpit floor. How did it go? If it went yet. I haven't quite decided whether to go kiwigrip or 2 part International with grippy granules. I'm not sure whether either patches well, but I guess kiwigrip is more susceptible to wear.

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Yep, that went well. Kiwigrip is very easy to use and easy to patch up. I should think periodic topping up if it does wear would be very easy.

I don't know whether Kiwigrip last as long as other finishes, or not. I should think it'll last a long time. I've also used Norglass Deck Paint and I found that to be very good and it seems long lasting too. Personally, I wouldn't bother with a two-pack for deck finish. The advantage of two-pack paint is that you can achieve a very smooth, fine finish, and they last well. But you don't really want a smooth finish for deck paint. Even with granules in it, I think it could still be a bit slippery.

Rick

[brucemoffatt]

I don't suppose anyone knows how to turn a whole thread (Arawana) into a single downloadable file like pdf?? Need it as a writing reference doc.


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[Phil Y]

My local International rep had a foot square sample of thier 2 pack deck finish on a bit of ply. Seemed Ok. Not glossy due to the granules. I think kiwi would cover remaining imperfections better. What's yours like on knees and bums and stuff?

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[RFNK]

I spent today helping a friend to glass a new boat he's building. It's a 25' trailerable power cruiser. He's building it entirely from closed-cell foam sheet (Divinycell), glassed inside and out with triaxial glass. Today we glassed the port side topsides and bottom. We had a local professional guiding us so it was a very interesting and informative day. The process basically involves the following steps (broad brush steps - we broke it down into more manageable sections):

1. Lay the glass (750 gm triaxial) along the bottom. Lay the glass along the chine and topsides and staple the upper edge, just below the chine (actually above when the hull is upright).
2. Roll back the glass on the bottom and lay a thick coat of resin on the foam.
3. Replace the glass and use squeegees to spread it evenly.
4. Roll resin onto the glass to make sure it's fully saturated. We had a diesel heater going in the boatbuilding shelter to help the resin flow.
5. Squeegee the glass onto the hull, using a heatgun to help with resin saturation.
6. Lay peel ply (actually not really peel ply but the material used to line suits because it's a lot cheaper than peel ply and works just the same).
7. Squeegee the peel ply until smooth.

We used an ATL resin - 4:1. ATL have the licence to manufacture West resin here but also produce their own range of resin.

Glassing the topsides was pretty much a repeat of the steps 2 - 7.

All seemed to work out and turn out well.

Rick

[RFNK]

My local International rep had a foot square sample of thier 2 pack deck finish on a bit of ply. Seemed Ok. Not glossy due to the granules. I think kiwi would cover remaining imperfections better. What's yours like on knees and bums and stuff?

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I find it's okay on knees and bums but, apart from feet, I try to keep other stuff away from it. Kiwigrip is really just a thick acrylic paint. The texture is created by running a texturing roller over it. The thicker your application of the actual paint, the more textured it is when you roll it with the texturing roller. This means you can make it as aggressive or as smooth as you like. And because the texture is all the same material, it keeps its colour even as it wears.

I used a Jotun two-pack with granules in it when I first restored the Folkboat. It looked good but I found it a bit slippery because the paint was glossy between and on the tiny granules. But that could have been due primarily to the skill level of the naive boat restorer. Anyway, after a few years, i repainted the deck with Norglass Deck paint and I've been really happy with that. I'm using Kiwigrip on Masina because Masina has a rubbery, corky layer of something under the deck paint which provides its deck-finish texture. It's really good but is wearing out here and there and I want to get it all looking better. Kiwigrip should cover all the worn areas and fine cracks that have opened up in the top paint layer over the years. I think Kiwigrip would be a good choice for hiding minor lumps and bumps.

Rick

[Geftb]

I don't suppose anyone knows how to turn a whole thread (Arawana) into a single downloadable file like pdf?? Need it as a writing reference doc.


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i remember people talking about doing that for jimmy ledgers thread a few year ago. Maybe start a thread? I'm sure others would be interested

[RFNK]

Jeff's also intending to print all of Peter's last thread and present it to Peter's family. I should think conversion to PDF or similar would be useful for him too. I think it's a good idea to start a thread asking about the best way to do that.

Go the Matildas!

Rick

[Phil Y]

I actually wondered briefly about using foam and glass on my deck. Light weight and insulation. But a step too far.

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[Phil Y]

I may yet do that for a new roof for my hard dodger.

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[MattSplatt]

I think a foam cored panel for a dodger is an excellent idea. Reducing weight up high is always worthwhile.

[WX]

I don't suppose anyone knows how to turn a whole thread (Arawana) into a single downloadable file like pdf?? Need it as a writing reference doc.


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It’s possible to save a page as a webpage I started doing it with The Just For Fun thread but gave up on it.

[WX]

I don't suppose anyone knows how to turn a whole thread (Arawana) into a single downloadable file like pdf?? Need it as a writing reference doc.


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Thread tools, show printable version. This will give you 40 posts per page as a PDF but I don’t know if it includes images.

[RFNK]

I may yet do that for a new roof for my hard dodger.

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I've been considering that for years but that's as far as I've got so far.

Rick

[Phil Y]

Oh well if you were going to come and do it for me that's perfect.

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[RFNK]

Oh well if you were going to come and do it for me that's perfect.

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You mean you want someone procrastinating for you? I can certainly do that for you ... Phil, let's build a foam dodger on Balia! Let's do it straight after we do Masina's!

Actually, the building process would be quite easy. It's developing a suitable design that's the hard bit!

Rick

[WX]

Helped a friend collect a sofa from a garage sale today, it was a simple process. Put tiedown straps in the car, go and pick up trailer from another friend then go pick up the sofa.
Forgot the tiedown straps, then got 15 k down the road before I remembered we hadn't picked up the trailer!

[RFNK]

Good one Gary!

The more sailing I do, and the more I think about, the more I like the idea of a hard dodger and better weather protection. We spend so much time in the cockpit, and in and out between the cockpit and cabin, and it gets so miserable when it's wet. Light rain and spray are not toooooo bad but once the rain really falls, it's no fun at all. David built a hard dodger for his boat and has good clears he can put up all round. It really makes the whole thing so much more pleasurable. Hmmmmm ........

Rick

[Geftb]

Comet has a hard dodger, the clears are not clear anymore. I'm thinking of ply/fibreglass and windows for the sides.

[Phil Y]

Balia has a hard dodger. Just has a slightly crappy and slightly too small ply top on it. So its just a matter of putting a new roof on an existing stainless frame.

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[RFNK]

Right. Well, that would be very easy to make with foam. All you need to do is make a mould from a few bits of wood and some construction ply. Fasten the foam to the mould and then glass the exposed side. I'd probably use triaxial 600 - 750 for that upper side. Once it's gone off, take the foam off the mould and glass the other side. Glue and glass some fastening points. Done.

Rick

[RFNK]

Comet has a hard dodger, the clears are not clear anymore. I'm thinking of ply/fibreglass and windows for the sides.

That's what I'd prefer too but I could only do it if it didn't interfere with the sailing set up.

Rick

[Small boats rock]

One more bulkhead could make it a properly watertight cabin.

[Phil Y]

I'm thinking of removable side and rear clears for mine. When it has its new roof. At the moment it has clears across the front and a foot or so back from the back of the cabin. I need to work out where my new cockpit sides will go before I can take things any further though.

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[Phil Y]

Right. Well, that would be very easy to make with foam. All you need to do is make a mould from a few bits of wood and some construction ply. Fasten the foam to the mould and then glass the exposed side. I'd probably use triaxial 600 - 750 for that upper side. Once it's gone off, take the foam off the mould and glass the other side. Glue and glass some fastening points. Done.

Rick

A mould, of course. Basically a mock up of the dodger frame. I was foolishly thinking of somehow doing it in situ, and using thin ply as the bottom layer to start off with.

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[Phil Y]

I'm also thinking about a new cabin top, maybe with overhang at the front at least. I'm not really in love with the rounded finish she was built with. Looks too much like a locomotive. But maybe that's messing with things too much. The funky windows would stay in any event.

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[brucemoffatt]

I'm also thinking about a new cabin top, maybe with overhang at the front at least. I'm not really in love with the rounded finish she was built with. Looks too much like a locomotive. But maybe that's messing with things too much. The funky windows would stay in any event.

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I'm thinking how good a day it is for checking for leaks.



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