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Thread: Plywood Hull Restoration

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Fingerlakes, New York
    Posts
    2

    Question

    Hello Again everyone... Thanks for the responses to my last post. I have a few questions for all of you...

    Project Info: 1965 28'Owens Flagship with a 225 Flagship V8, hull is about 95% sound and needs only minor repairs, unsure of engine and out drive, all electrics and tanks seem sound

    This boat needs a lot of TLC, much of the forward trim is rotted, as well as some decking. Interior needs to be gutted and redone. And the entire boat needs to be repainted. This sounds like a lot of work for an old plywood clunker but I only paid $500 for it!!! Anyway on to the questions...

    What is the best method for striping the old paint?? I am guessing I will need to strip it down to the wood to determine if any rot exists below the paint?? Suggestions please???!!!

    When I am ready to paint again, what are my options as far as sealing with some type of epoxy?? I want to restore her to original so I will need something that will not interfere with that.

    And lastly, what are the recommended fasters for this application?? SS or Galvanized???

    Thanks to everyone who responds!!!!

    Seth
    Watkins Glen, NY

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    The North Coast
    Posts
    2,382

    Post

    Seth.....I used a heat gun and pull type scraper (not a putty knife) to strip the paint on my 16' Lyman. I feel this is the best method but there are others. If you have good ventalation or are working outside you might want to use a chemical stripper. What type of fasteners does your boat have now? Will you be using the boat in fresh or salt water? I would use Silicone Bronze marine grade or stainless steel screws. You really should get a marine survey from a qualified marine surveyor, so you will know where to start on your restoration. Right now you need information and a good surveyor can give you that info. On a boat that size it would be a good investment and could save you a ton of money and frustration down the road. If the tanks are galvinized I would plan to replace with stainless steel or plastic, because the galvinization fails after time and flakes off and cloggs the fuel system. This is a common problem with older boats. Sounds like an interesting project and please post some photo's when you can.
    Peace---> Kevin in Ohio

    [ 05-05-2003, 09:31 AM: Message edited by: Mr. Know It All ]

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Wilmington, NC
    Posts
    955

    Post

    There is a wealth of info on this from past threads. Some folks typed till they were blue in the face. Use the search function. The survey is a good idea. Good luck on your project.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    St. Louis, MO
    Posts
    12,523

    Post

    As one who grew up with a 1959 Flagship, plywood, I can honestly tell you that:

    a) Find the soft spot
    b) Get out your pocket knife
    c) Repeatedly stab her in concentric circles until the knife no longer goes in.
    d) Cut six or eight inches of the good wood out too, or until the next frame/rib for fastening purposes.

    You certainly do NOT need to strip to determine if there is rot!

    The one thing about ply is that you do NOT need to be a master woodworker to repair your own hullsides or bottom.

    Be sure and check the frames when exposed. They probably will not be cracked/brokern, however, they may have spots of rot.

    Owens were not heavily built boats ... even lighter than Chris Crafts plywoods of the same era.

    Qualified survey FIRST and foremost!

    Outdrive? This boat should be a straight inboard ...

    Brad
    Nothing else matters but how I raise my children ... and their opinion of me, as a father.

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