Table Saw Sled Ideas

[RFNK]

Well, I've just rebuilt the shed around a new table saw setup so the process of filling the shed with junk I'll never use has recommenced. So, while there's a window of time and space before the shed is refilled, could anyone with a table saw sled that they're particular happy with please post a picture of it so that I can steal your design!? All contributions very welcome but I'd be particularly interested in any reasons why your particular design works so well.

My saw is a 12" (300mm) model with mitre slots either side of the blade. I've extended the table so that I have around 8' (2400mm) behind the blade and about 5' (1300mm) on the right hand side.

Rick

[Larks]

Funny you post this Rick, it's something that I was looking at last week for my new table saw, not that I've got much time to play with it yet, but I saw some guys out the back here with one a few weeks ago and was prompted to look them up on Google. I found quite a few ideas on there, all much the same but pretty easy to do. One of the youtube clips looks like it has a strip of sand paper along the face of the back stop to grip the timber stock, seems like a good idea.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HMJOKfp7TfI

this ads a few interesting ideas: http://forum.canadianwoodworking.com...table-saw-sled

[Woxbox]

Here's what I did -- I embedded a pair of tracks so I can clamp down an aluminum guide at any angle, or clamp on any other jigs I might need. It's flexible and easily adjusted. And I can't recall if this was my idea or if I saw it someplace else.

[Eddiebou]

A sled is one thing I wouldn't want to be without. My 2cts:
-Make the bottom out of something thin, like 1/4" ply, so it won't rob you of depth of cut.
-Make your runners so there is NO SLOP and attach them to the bottom while in the slots, then screw some temporary blocks to bridge across the kerf. After the kerf is made, square off the kerf to align the "fences" or support blocks.
- Make the fences tall enough so that you will have good support after a full depth cut is made. In your case maybe 7-8 inches. I used 3/4 fir, stable straight and lightweight.
-If you always use the same width of blade, your kerf will be dead on accurate to the cut, and be totally supported, reducing tearout. So remember if you use a dado blade, or cut on a bevel, you will rob yourself of this.
- If you slightly bevel or undercut the bottom edge of the fence or any butt-block, it will allow a little unseen peice of sawdust to dissapear and won't affect your squareness, length, etc.
- My fence has hand holes in it so you can reach through it instead of having to reach over it to hold the workpiece. This is also a built in safety feature that keeps my hands away from the blade.

I assume you extended the mitre slots into your outfeed table. My sled is about 26"+ deep X 40" wide. Sometimes I wish it were deeper.

[RFNK]

Thanks everyone, that's already really helpful! Eddie, I haven't extended the mitre slots yet but I'm going to. I wanted to just see the ideas for a sled setup before cutting trenches in the outfeed tables. The outfeed table is in three parts - a table that runs off the far right of the saw table, a cabinet that runs off the left of the table and a board suspended between the cabinet and table to form the middle outfeed table. I'll need to cut a trench along the middle table and I'll have to reinforce the underneath of this table so that the trench doesn't weaken it too much. The cabinet top is in two layers anyway so the trench won't affect it so much. I'll post a picture of this setup if my description isn't clear enough!
Rick

[PeterSibley]

Rick, ask your local library if they have a copy of a FineWoodworking DVD called Basic Box making by Doug Stowe. He has an excellent and well worked out sled that features strongly in the DVD. It's well worth watching .

The Tweed Shire Library has a copy if you need to request one of those expensive $2 inter library loans .

[RFNK]

Thanks Peter - I'll have a look!
Rick