Woodruff keys

[WX]

Where would I buy 316 stainless steel woodruff keys here in Australia?

[Canoeyawl]

I can buy them here in the US and put them in the mail... Mc Master -Carr
How many do you need? What key number?

[The Bigfella]

Make em. You got a file and a vice?

[WX]

Make em. You got a file and a vice?

I hate filing, brings back memories of high school metal work.

[WX]

I can buy them here in the US and put them in the mail... Mc Master -Carr
How many do you need? What key number?

At the moment I need two but I don't know what the key number would. This is just a general query at the moment. Thanks anyway, much appreciated. Ian is probably right in that I should just make them.

[Canoeyawl]

You can look here. http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/117/3330/=eu6zri

They are pretty accurate, it's difficult to justify spending a few hours each making a 50 cent part.

[WX]

You can look here. http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/117/3330/=eu6zri

They are pretty accurate, it's difficult to justify spending a few hours each making a 50 cent part.

I would happily buy them.

[The Bigfella]

http://www.motionindustries.com.au/C...p_id=2&mpgn=36

[WX]

Thanks Ian, I see they have only one 316 listing, 8mmx8mm. It just might be what I am looking for...I forgot to measure the keyway in the coupling and the prop this arvo. Too busy thinking about the skeg rebuild MKII.

[Canoez]

Just one caution - the Woodruff Key is also there to protect things. Was the original of 316 Stainless? If you use a "tougher" key material than the original, you can damage the shafting and other drive components. However, I figure you know this already - just posting this for others who may not know.

[Canoeyawl]

8mmx8mm

These sound like straight or machine keys, not woodruff keys.
A woodruff key is a semi circle type of key that is captured in a matching smei-circle shaped slot. Typically they are listed by a key number rather than a fractional size.

[WX]

Just one caution - the Woodruff Key is also there to protect things. Was the original of 316 Stainless? If you use a "tougher" key material than the original, you can damage the shafting and other drive components. However, I figure you know this already - just posting this for others who may not know.

My reason for 316 ss is being for the prop it will be under water. I could use mild steel at the coupling end.
Thanks for Woodruff clarification, I hadn't known the difference. New territory for me.

[Canoeyawl]

For a marine application I would use stainless keys at both ends.

The machine key is not generally designed as a shear pin or weak link. It is there to provide a positive transfer of torque through a coupling, think of it as a single spline. (It is not uncommon to fit two keys if it is anticipated that they will have more load than one key can transmit without shearing).

These are precise fits and if the key shears, the shaft and coupling will probably be ruined as well. The last thing we want is to go into reverse and not have it due to a sheared key or a pulled shaft. Vessels have been lost this way. I have retrofitted inboard marine shaft couplings as a fastened taper with a woodruff key (same as a propeller) just for more insurance.