17' Lapstrake Canoe

[P.L.Lenihan]

Vernon,

I'm one of many just sitting back,relaxing and enjoying your step by step build. I hope you post the 30 odd detail pictures of the fourth set install.

Stay warm!


Cheers!


Peter

[outofthenorm]

That's looking pretty sweet Vernon. Keep the pictures coming! And you're right about being lucky with the weather - I was working on a new shed yesterday with no coat on - in Toronto, in November!

- Norm

[James McMullen]

Looking pretty fair from here. Good job, Vernon!

And as far as post #47 goes, well, I'm kind of a pessimist when it comes to planning for things that can go wrong. Maybe it's because my business is repairing yachts and so I see what has failed up close and personal, all the time.

You'll probably be fine with such small-dimension scantlings in a light duty, garage-stored boat, but I can't recommend that anyone risk it when there's so many other options that don't have the long-term history of epoxy glue-joint failure. Murphy's Law is at least as much of a universal constant as the Law of Gravity.

[bthomas]

Vernon--great thread which I am enjoying. Been quietly watching because I have no lapstrake experience just lapstrake envy...looks really fine to me . Weather still holding...even though we have been in the twenties at night the daytime temps have been moderate for this late in the fall. So far my woodstove in the shop has been able to cope and having no glueing issues

Bill

[Vernon]

Vernon,

I'm one of many just sitting back,relaxing and enjoying your step by step build. I hope you post the 30 odd detail pictures of the fourth set install.

Stay warm!


Cheers!


Peter

Thanks Peter,

I just came in from glueing the other side of the 4th set, I had a little extra time after work tonight. The 30 pictures was just 1 side.

Congratulations on you're fine launch, I've been watching for about a year. Looking forward to more.

Vern

[Vernon]

Looking pretty fair from here. Good job, Vernon!

And as far as post #47 goes, well, I'm kind of a pessimist when it comes to planning for things that can go wrong. Maybe it's because my business is repairing yachts and so I see what has failed up close and personal, all the time.

You'll probably be fine with such small-dimension scantlings in a light duty, garage-stored boat, but I can't recommend that anyone risk it when there's so many other options that don't have the long-term history of epoxy glue-joint failure. Murphy's Law is at least as much of a universal constant as the Law of Gravity.

Thanks James,

I'm happy with how it's going together so far, but I do have a few spots that may be about 1/16" flattened on the line between the garboards and the 2nd plank. You have to look to find them, but I'm glad I started on a canoe that will take a bit of abuse on the bottom anyway. I found that my spiling was ok, but I pinched the garboards a bit when gluing up in place. Since then, I've been glueing the planks up right at the bench and trusting the spiling batten. The rest are as fair as my eye can see and my moulds and layout have proven to be accurate.

Can't blame you for going with the proven methods, that's what I always did in my business too. I actually woundn't recommend to anyone that they glue up oak either. I'm keeping this one though, and it's more of an learning experiment to me. Up until now, I wouldn't have trusted the epoxy at all, but I'm finding that glued lap should prove to be a durable method with many advantages in a dry stored boat. I've been glueing up and destroying alot of scraps and every cutoff from the work without any failures.

Vern

[Vernon]

That's looking pretty sweet Vernon. Keep the pictures coming! And you're right about being lucky with the weather - I was working on a new shed yesterday with no coat on - in Toronto, in November!

- Norm

Thanks Norm, I hope this weather holds for another month. Might as well be greedy, I love the time we don't need either the furnace or the AC.

[Vernon]

Vernon--great thread which I am enjoying. Been quietly watching because I have no lapstrake experience just lapstrake envy...looks really fine to me . Weather still holding...even though we have been in the twenties at night the daytime temps have been moderate for this late in the fall. So far my woodstove in the shop has been able to cope and having no glueing issues

Bill

Hey Bill, Thanks for stopping

I've done a bit of work on lapstrake planking repairs in the past, but I'm really enjoying the process of new planking now that I'm starting to get it figured. There's nothing like watching all those curves go together. It's pretty easy to do once you know what to do and when to do it. I could say that about alot of things.

Vern

[Vernon]

Planking sequence. I'm not claiming that this is the right order, just what I did for this particular plank.
I start another set of planking by clamping on the lining batten.



Held in alignment only by trim nails and spring clamps placed carfully over the lands at the stems.




Bevel each mould with the lining batten as a guide, sight the batten from all angles, adjust if needed.

[Vernon]

Record the width at each station on a scrap of wood. Plank #4, station 7.



Beveling the previous plank with a block plane right in place. Just removing the bulk of the material by running the plane full length while rolling it along the moulds.


The moulds at the center would be in the way of the planking, The line shows what needs to be removed if the plank is to land on the mould.

[Vernon]

hold a straight edge on each mold and find tune the lap at each station with a plane.




Finish up the lap with 50 grit. Eyeball the plywood layers to ensure the bevel rolls consistanly.



Clamp the spiling batten on. This plank will be nearly straight on the lower edge.

[Vernon]

Use a compass to mark each station on the spiling batten




Use the measurements and the spiling batten at the bench to get a rough layout for the plank. This set will be a 10' pieces and a 8' pieces scarphed together. Each piece will taper from 5" to 4" at the ends. I rough cut with the jig saw to about 1" over size

[Vernon]

Each piece gets a scarph on 1 end buzzed out on the jig.




And then quickly finished off with 50 grit.

[Vernon]

Glue up for the night. This is the fourth pair of blanks, cleaned, wetted, then thickened epoxy applied. stacked with plastic under, between and over, and lightly clamped.

[Vernon]

Halfway there, this is a 35 picture sequence, but it's time for bed. Back up for work in 7 hrs.
That glue needs to dry anyway, I'll finish up tommorow night.

Vern

[Vernon]

Clean up the scarfs on the rough planks




Transfer station marks from the spiling batten to the lower edge of the planks.



For a extra measure of error proofing, I record and transfer mid points between the stations too.

[Vernon]

Use the lining batten to drawn the line for the lower edge of the planks.



Use the measuring stick to mark the upper edge of the plank and each station.

[Vernon]

Connect the dots with the lining batten.



Cut the planks with the jig saw and finish up with the tools you see before unclamping and setting up for another length.



I set up the planks on the bench with backing blocks tacked with the same trim nails I'm using for the batten, so I don't have to run nail through the planks.

[Vernon]

Dry fit the plank to the canoe. I use quick clamps at the stations to get it in place, then add the lap clamps. Then I remove the quick clamps to make sure the plank wants to land on each station. Mark the outside the stems on back of the plank and verify the I'm hitting the lining marks. I also mark where the gains will need to be cut.




Back at the bench to cut the gains and finish cleaning up the plank.
The gains are cut on the upper inboard side and the lower outboard side at the ends of each plank.




Cut with the chisel and roughed up with 50 grit on a block.

[Vernon]

fit the plank back on the canoe an run a sanding belt on both surfaces to quickly fit the gains.

[Vernon]

Flip the plank back onto the quick clamps, quickly hit the mating surfaces 1 more time with the sanding block, brush the dust off, and wipe down with acetone.




The temperature is in the 50's, I heat the epoxy until thin.

[Vernon]

Wet out the mating surfaces with unthickened epoxy.




Apply thickened goop to the plank only.

[Vernon]

And finally fit and clamp the plank on the canoe for the last time.



To this point I use a small electric heater to keep the chill off, now I run the big heater for about 30 minutes.

[Vernon]

That's the end of the sequence, now I just need to do something similar for 3 more sets. Last night I glued the sister plank on the other side.

[Vernon]

Glueing up the 5th set of planks.

[Vernon]

5th plank on the other side



5th set all done

[Vernon]

lining out the 6th set of planks



glueing up the 6th set

[Vernon]

That's where I left off for the weekend.
6th set cut and ready to go, installed on one side.
One day I'll learn to take a centered picture so it doesn't look distorted like that.

[PaulT]

Great series!... Keep'm coming please.

Thanks
PaulT

[Vernon]

Thanks for commenting PaulT. I may have more next weekend, I'd love to wrap up the planking. It's getting closer to the time of deciding what color is best for a lapstrake canoe, the white or the really white.

Vern

[Ed Armstrong]

Thanks for detailing your spiling technique. I'm getting ready to plank a Wee Rob. On my previous boat, I used cheap 1/8" plywood to make full-size templates, but I want to try another method for the Wee Rob, and yours seems like a good one. I didn't read the full thread, but if I understand correctly, you used a spiling plank/batten to record the bottom edge at the molds (as well as mid-mold), and a story-board to record plank widths at each mold from which you got the top edge. Is that correct?

[Vernon]

Thanks for detailing your spiling technique. I'm getting ready to plank a Wee Rob. On my previous boat, I used cheap 1/8" plywood to make full-size templates, but I want to try another method for the Wee Rob, and yours seems like a good one. I didn't read the full thread, but if I understand correctly, you used a spiling plank/batten to record the bottom edge at the molds (as well as mid-mold), and a story-board to record plank widths at each mold from which you got the top edge. Is that correct?

Yes, that sounds right Ed. The Wee Rob looks to be about the same shape, If I were to make another spiling batten, I would make it with a few inches of curve in it to better approximate the shape of the planking. I think it would have been easier to lay it in approximate position. After plank 5, I started using the sister plank from the previous pair to spile the next.

Othes might suggest just spiling individual pieces of the plywood and scraphing right in place on the canoe.

Vern

[Vernon]

I mentioned earlier that I started scarphing planks at the bench instead of spiling 8' sections and scarphing in place on the canoe. This was easier for me to do, I have 20' of clear bench space to work with. However as the curve of each set of planks increases, so does the scrap generated. The 7th pair were scarphed out of 6" wide pieces in order to fit. The planks are a bit less than 4" at the widest, so there is more than a 2" cutoff from each piece.



I was just kicking the cutoffs under the bench as I went, this is probably about 3/4 of the scrap. I would guess about 25% waste. If you were to spile 8' sections and scarph in place, the scrap would amount to slivers. In all, I used 3 sheets of plywood, 1 of them was 5' x 10'.



I laid the plank on the floor to clean the bench. It's included here as the best look so far at a completed plank. Since I was just using a jig saw to rough out the shapes before moving to the bench, I just laid 2x4's across the table saw to work from. -Empty now because there's no more to cut!

[Vernon]

The weather has been unseasonably warm so far this year, but It finally got a bit cold this weekend. Heat and cover was called for. I found a couple of old blue tarps laying around that worked OK. My little electric heater sitting on the floor under the canoe kept it nice and toasty while the glue kicked off.

[Vernon]

Here's the 1st of the 7th and final set of planks just glued up.

[Vernon]

The planking is complete. Time for a bit of sanding.

[Vernon]

The lining batten clamp on the shear for a look-see, it's about the size of the guard. I might favor something a bit heavier.

[bthomas]

Vernon---I can't get enough of this thread and appreciate the time and effort you put into the narrative instructions which make this a teaching build. Certainly has me dreaming about a lapstrake build of my own.

Bill

[Vernon]

Vernon---I can't get enough of this thread and appreciate the time and effort you put into the narrative instructions which make this a teaching build. Certainly has me dreaming about a lapstrake build of my own.

Bill

Thanks Bill, I'm glad some are enjoying this. I'm learned enough so far that I'm going ahead with ordering plans for another. Jim Cricket's build thread popping back up helped me to make the final decision on the Mantinicus dbl ender for my next one. I doubt I can make it that pretty on my second effort but it'll be fun to try.

Vern

[bthomas]

Vern,

I have been looking at that Mantinicus design as well...the lapstrake's really show off its shape. Meanwhile I am waiting for pictures as you to flip this hull and start finishing her off.

Bill

[Vernon]

Vern,

I have been looking at that Mantinicus design as well...the lapstrake's really show off its shape. Meanwhile I am waiting for pictures as you to flip this hull and start finishing her off.

Bill

When I read this last night, the plan was to leave the canoe on the molds until I glued on the cutwaters and keel strip, but it's 20 degrees here now - too cold to provide heat for the night. Instead I flipped it over and started sanding on the inside. When I tried to take a picture I had low batteries, changed them with the new set, low again - too cold for the dang camera too I suppose. The camera's inside for the night.

Vern

[Vernon]

[bthomas]

You must be pleased and proud all at at once. Beautiful shapely lovely...what else can I say the planking really sets it off.

[where did you find green grass??? mine is all covered in white...[the sun is diffused even when the trees have lost all their leaves I guess...too much shade]

Bill

[jim_cricket]

Hey Vernon,
Congrats on pulling the boat off the molds! Are you going to use steam bent ribs?

I was looking back over your thread, and noticed you ended up scarfing planks on the bench. With the MDE, I started out scarfing on the molds, as you did, and ended up on the bench, too. I noticed a little unfairness at one stage, and definitely got a better job by fairing the whole plank, rather than just half. I also found the whole planks went on faster, than just one half at a time. It takes just as long to hang a half plank as it does a whole one, and the job looks better. On the next boat, whatever that may be, I'd like to rough out ALL the planks ahead of time, pre-coat with epoxy, and sand them before they go on the boat. It will take a lot more planning, but will save time and agony down the road. I know a lot of glued-lap builders don't epoxy coat their boats, but I think it toughens up the surface and gives a good base for paint.

Anyway, I'm looking forward to the rest of your build. You won't have any trouble with the Matinicus!

Jim

[Rich Jones]

Great looking boat! It should paddle like a dream. What's the finish going to be? Varnish, paint?
To Jim's query on ribs: that's the beauty of glued-lap, no need for ribs! The epoxy holding the planks together provide great strength.

Edited: I should have mentioned that no ribs are needed on such a small, paddle-propelled glued lap canoe. Anything much larger, beamer, or that has a sailing rig would need something to stiffen her up.

[Vernon]

Thanks Bill, I have some more pictures to post tonight from different angles. I have a lot of imperfections to work on, but did manage to achieve a good overall shape. We're expecting 51 degrees for a high next Wednesday, but I'm sure we'll be buried in snow soon enough.

Vern

[Vernon]

Hey Vernon,
Congrats on pulling the boat off the molds! Are you going to use steam bent ribs?

I was looking back over your thread, and noticed you ended up scarfing planks on the bench. With the MDE, I started out scarfing on the molds, as you did, and ended up on the bench, too. I noticed a little unfairness at one stage, and definitely got a better job by fairing the whole plank, rather than just half. I also found the whole planks went on faster, than just one half at a time. It takes just as long to hang a half plank as it does a whole one, and the job looks better. On the next boat, whatever that may be, I'd like to rough out ALL the planks ahead of time, pre-coat with epoxy, and sand them before they go on the boat. It will take a lot more planning, but will save time and agony down the road. I know a lot of glued-lap builders don't epoxy coat their boats, but I think it toughens up the surface and gives a good base for paint.

Anyway, I'm looking forward to the rest of your build. You won't have any trouble with the Matinicus!

Jim

Thanks Jim, Congrats to you as well on your build coming along nicely.

I think I sold myself on scarphing rough planks at the bench and taking the small hit on material waste. I know I get a better look at plank layout, my bench is about the only place I can see a complete plank from the end. I'm using the rest of the epoxy I have for primer on the canoe, Simmon's coats only the laps on when he builds these, but it seems you're 1/3 coated by the time its done anyway and it can't hurt to toughen up the bottom at least.

Vern

[Vernon]

Great looking boat! It should paddle like a dream. What's the finish going to be? Varnish, paint?
To Jim's query on ribs: that's the beauty of glued-lap, no need for ribs! The epoxy holding the planks together provide great strength.

Edited: I should have mentioned that no ribs are needed on such a small, paddle-propelled glued lap canoe. Anything much larger, beamer, or that has a sailing rig would need something to stiffen her up.

Richard, Hello - You're right, no ribs at all on this one. Breasthooks, open rail, seats, and speaders are what's required to finish - cutwaters and keel strip just finished a bit ago. I was tempted to go ahead and steam bend ash ribs in anyway just for the experience - and they're cool looking - but in the end decided I would make less of a boat for the extra work.

Not sure about the finish, I likely will epoxy coat it and then decide in the spring. It'll definately be painted white on the outside and maybe inside too. The meranti seems a bit to dark to leave the inside bright. I'm toying with the idea of painting the whole thing bright white, that might be a striking look. Ah we'll see, in any case I did not go with decorative wood for the trim, all of it will be white ash.

Vern

[Vernon]

I was interupted when my connection blinked out last night, but here's a few shots for different angles from the night I flipped her over.

[Vernon]