Hartley Ts16 advice sought! Uses for spruces..

[asrainox]

Greetings all. I would just like to ask a few small questions of the knowledgable pool of minds we have here, if anyone has the time.

Firstly, I've not been build-threading or anything so a small introduction to give you context.

I'm in Australia (so recommendations of primarily contintental US woods are largely unavailable or extremely costly). I'm building a Hartley TS16, a ply-on-chine 16ft trailer/day sailer/weekender. A smallish, bermudian sloop, you can see photographs here.

I'm building the little lady with a bit of character, and there's a few images below. I've flipped the hull, and am currently working on fitting longitudinal floor bearers and structures before the ply floors are fitted. I'm a bit further along than it seems and the cabin floors, which is everything up to frame 4 (mid-centrecase) is already epoxy sealed, framed and has floors fitted and fixed. I'm now getting ready for completing the cockpit.










My question today I'd like a little help on is: I'm going to be laying a faux strip deck (yes yes, I know, lipstick on a donkey and all that). I've got a decent amount of high-quality quartersawn/vertical grain sikta spruce which I'd like to use for it. I know sikta isn't very impact resistant, but the deck on this boat (which is mostly a small amount of fore-deck) will largely see little day-to-day traffic, being trailered. Would it be at all suitable?

Secondly, if not suitable for faux decking, could I use the spruce as floor bearers? There's little mention of suitable woods in the plans, calling for a suitable mid-density softwood (roughly 350-380kg per m3).

Thanks Ladies and Gents! If neither of these would be a good idea, what could I do with the spruce, given that I don't need to make spars?

[Larks]

I don't know about the suitability for decking, (Peter Sibley may be along with better knowledge of that shortly) would you varnish it and risk a slippery deck or leave it to the elements and if so I wonder how it will hold up exposed. Being on a trailer it should be easy to look after but it may be worth getting a bit wet with salt water and leave it out in the weather for a bit to see what it looks like after a bit of sun.

I do understand that it is a good framing timber though, with a "relatively high strength-to-density ratio... favored species for light aircraft construction" according to Bootles.

[asrainox]

Thanks Larks,

The idea would probably be to varnish the laid deck, at this stage. I'm tossing up the oiling idea but the -even more- regular maintenance it needs, especially when trailered behind a car (read soot sticking to it) make it somewhat undesirable. I know it'd be easier application, but not easier maintenance than varnish methinks, with the dirt it will see.

I'm not averse to buying different timber for the deck, however I didn't want teak.

Just wasn't sure if it was strong enough for a former underneath ply floors. I'd guess it might be, thick enough, but wanted to ask.

[Larks]

Thanks Larks,

The idea would probably be to varnish the laid deck, at this stage. I'm tossing up the oiling idea but the -even more- regular maintenance it needs, especially when trailered behind a car (read soot sticking to it) make it somewhat undesirable. I know it'd be easier application, but not easier maintenance than varnish methinks, with the dirt it will see.

I'm not averse to buying different timber for the deck, however I didn't want teak.

Just wasn't sure if it was strong enough for a former underneath ply floors. I'd guess it might be, thick enough, but wanted to ask.

If you're worried about the strength of it, maybe take the time to make up a bit of a mock up of the cabin top, use maybe three frames and glue on a bit of ply and sit them between some bricks and stand on them. My TS16 cabin top frames are pretty light, not sure what timber, and I've had to sister a frame to a cracked one behind the hatch, but as long as I don't jump on them they now seem pretty well up to holding my 86kg when I walk over it. You do want to be able to stand on the top of the cabin top.

[skuthorp]

Do a search for an occasional forumite SOFALA, he has a Hartley and may be able to help. You may have to send an email though if he has one posted.

[asrainox]

The mockup idea is a good one, but I don't plan to use the spruce for cabin top beams, just the underfloors.

I could still do a mockup of that section, but the issue is that doing that will use up a decent chunk of wood that could be used for my faux laid deck, if spruce is appropriate for it.

My first preference is to keep using hoop pine (my framing timber so far), and use the spruce on the deck because of its tight vertical grain and the fact I can resaw it easily into 1/4" x 1 3/4" strips because of its current dimensions. I just have the feeling that Spruce is too soft for even a faux laid deck...

[WX]

I know that Western Red Cedar is susceptible to a mold that feeds on the oils in the timber. I would epoxy saturate with a TPA mixed into the first coat. Then give the whole lot 4 or 5 coats of the finish of your choice. Of course you could just oil it and that way you would have a deck you wouldn't skate off. it's going to sit on a trailer and under cover I expect so you would be no great drama to keep it oiled.

[Larks]

The following is from Peter. He's not sure why but he hasn't been able to post to the thread so he PM'd it through to me to post:

Hi, I tried to post a reply earlier but it disappeared! Anyway ...

Spruce for a deck ? Just for pretty and varnished ? It should be fine .It's soft and not durable but should glue down well .I've tried the same thing with tallow wood and it tore itself off the ply, the wood just cupped and broke the bond. Personally I'd wander down to the local demo yard and buy a short length of high ring count oregon and resaw it ... I like oregon !(fir to US readers ).

Strength for beams ? Spruce is light but by Oz standards not very strong .If you are concerned just increase the size of the beams .Depth is the greatest gain, as strength increases as a square of the depth .ie .If the beam is 5cm deep the strength is 25 'units of strength' .If it is 7cm deep it is 49 'units of strength '.Increasing thickness works too but just in proportion, not as a square of the dimension.

[PeterSibley]

Under your cabin sole weight isn't really a problem but rot might be ...perhaps use hardwood there ?

[Larks]

Under your cabin sole weight isn't really a problem but rot might be ...perhaps use hardwood there ?

You're back!!!.....I meant to ask, what do you consider a high ring count for oregon?

[goat]

Nice looking yacht you have there.

I have a mast, boom and sails for one of these. Too bad your in Aussie!

Will tag this one.

[PeterSibley]

You're back!!!.....I meant to ask, what do you consider a high ring count for oregon?

20 rings per inch or thereabouts. I just bought a good looking 8''x4'' about 17 foot long with 20 rings per inch .It looks like spars to me .

[andrewpatrol]

Gday As...,
Before you frame cockpit, consider either upping the size of framing or reducing spacing and fitting in an extra fore/aft member. On the Ts16 you do a lot of stepping down off the cockpit seats, so the cockpit floor needs it, especially if you're going the bouyancy tank route. BTW this comes from a guy who advised me and he's either built or had a hand in, on more than 20 TS16's. keep up the good work

Andrew

[asrainox]

Thanks andrew,

I've been looking at that section on the plans and thinking that they're trusting a lot to the stiffness of the ply.

I thought that I'd put in an additional floor bearer that is inserted vertically rather than horizontally, around 2" x 3/4". This is a bit smaller than the horizontal ones, but more than 2 times the depth, so will add some rigidity.

I'm also going to put in a vertical girder in line with the horizontal bearers (like the mast support one - I think you built one...yes?) between each frame to add support and give them some extra strength. I'm going to bash the cockpit about in the end, I think, so I'll want it fairly sturdy. I went pretty over-board with the cabin framing in the same way.

Pray ignore my quick MSpaint drawing for the example, but you'll get the idea.



Thoughts on the girder Andrew?

She's gonna be a bit heavy for racing, but she's a camper anyway.

[asrainox]

Also, while we're at it, is there any interest in seeing a thread on the build? When I read this forum, I know that a ply-on-chine, outdated construction method, "better options out there" dinky little sailboat from the 50's being built using epoxy is pretty much a giant "Eugh!" from most people, but I at least am excited.

For someone who didn't even have a shed when he started, let alone a saw, and nothing but books and internet to teach him...I'm doin well.

[Larks]

Also, while we're at it, is there any interest in seeing a thread on the build? When I read this forum, I know that a ply-on-chine, outdated construction method, "better options out there" dinky little sailboat from the 50's being built using epoxy is pretty much a giant "Eugh!" from most people, but I at least am excited.

For someone who didn't even have a shed when he started, let alone a saw, and nothing but books and internet to teach him...I'm doin well.

Absobloodylutely!!! What do you think this forum's all about? You've gotta give a little to get a little here!!

[asrainox]

Alrighty then!

In the very beginning, I had a cat that looked like this.



In the boat-building fiasco I had no idea what I was getting into, and I made a humble beginning. It took me roughly a month and a half to turn some simple bits of timber into this.



Another 2 weeks of fiddling and stressing myself out gave me this.



I laid a laminated keelson, and plugged a WHOLE lot of spots where temporary screws were with dowels







TBC...

[asrainox]

I bent some chines into place, which were a right B**** to do...





And some stringers, which weren't.



And my cat looked like this:



Meanwhile, my boat then looked like this:



Then this:



TBC

[asrainox]

And finally this:



She got trimmed and faired, which was very boring and dusty, and then got glassed.



Then sanded...



Then undercoated....



Then painted, with a nice clear stemline and brass rubbing strip....



And then flipped




Which more or less catches us up! I'm gradually aquiring tools and neatening the shed as I go along. all in all, I started the build in february(-ish). I'd hoped for a year of casual building, but I think it might drag on a bit. I'll add some new photographs of the cabin floor area which has been set in/roughed out tomorrow, and the progress I'm making on the cockpit floors.

[andrewpatrol]

Hi As,
I wouldnt put the girder between the floor stringers and hull stringers because that will stress hull ply. It is adequate to just put in an extra stringer for the floor. Remember try to keep weight in the ends of your hull down especially in the stern where all the people sit 'cause the boat tends to drag its bum and therefore sail inefficiently. You may say you dont care about that, but it could mean making way against the tide or not some day etc.
As far as pictures for an old design - look at the thread that Johnathon's (The Maid) building with an older design of boat!!!

BRING ON THE PICS

Andrew

P.S. I cant remember if the frame that goes across the cockpit (halfway between cabin and stern) has a ply stiffener or not but what I did was divided the cockpit bouyancy tank in two at this point, across the boat, which stiffens up this point. What you could do is glue a piece of ply to a bit of timber of the size you are using for cockpit framing and compare it to just the ply, then you'll appreciate the added stiffness of the combined thickness.
I love looking at the reflections in your hull finish, for roll and tip, thats fantastic. I didnt think it would come out that well.

[asrainox]

Thanks for the feedback Andrew!

The weight has largely been kept out of the bow and stern, so she should be right. When I say "heavy", we're probably only talking 20kg +/- 10kg overall over minimum weight. Not dramatic. Two of us flipper her onto her side no issues, and 3 of us carried her out of the shed about 10 meters without strain.

Just used heavy ply, stronger than necissary timbers, and probably way too much epoxy which is why I think heavy.



I was pretty pleased with the finish, for 2-pack rolled and tipped. Better than I expected too! Will post some images in a few hours.

[WX]

That shot brings back some fine memories from when I started my Hartley Spindrift 24. I worked like a man demented for 6 weeks to get that far...that first tantalising boat shape.
You've done a fine job so far, keep it up.

[asrainox]

So, In line with my "I'm a little further along", this is more or less where I am at the moment, about a week behind current. I've glued down the lower section in the image which is the back end of the cabin. The floor is now an airtight flotation chamber which nonetheless has foam flotation in there anyway, just in case... The inside of the whole area is 3x coated with West before fixing down the ply. There's a small recess next to the centrecase that's 13" x 9"x about 8 inches deep to take any water that gets into the cabin , and to also give access to the centreboard pin. The recess has piping running through the cockpit floatation area to a different set of bungs, so that water in cabin doesn't have to drain through the cockpit bilge. It's been a little complex for me, but it's kinda getting there. If you'd like more pictures of it, I'd not mind sharing. These images are pre-glue, I think...



I've made a set of hatches to go over the recess from Jarrah offcuts, which I'll post images of when they've been varnished up.

Another view. The exposed framing is the end of the bunks, which I'm turning into a small divided storage area, with a hinged ply lid. Storage in a boat this small is pretty important, especially when I'm planning to cruise. The storage isn't deep, but will be good for flat items, tools, etc. They'll be hidden under bunk cushions anyway. This photo was pre-glue.



And I finally got my pretty little Stemhead and shroudplates.



I'm definitely overdoing the build of a typical Hartley, but I want her to look nice.

The job for this week has been fitting and fairing fore-deck beams!




More to come.

[goat]

Are thise foredeck frames steam bent or faired to get the curve? Youve given me an idea.

[asrainox]

Those deck beams are just sawn roughly to the curve, then faired down with a spokeshave for a good land for the ply. Pretty low-tech, but they don't take an immense amount of stress so for a boat like this it's more than adequate.

[skaraborgcraft]

Doing a great job. Thanks for sharing. TS16s are still a great boat for what they were designed to do.

[Larks]

Yes, this thread's due for an update.....?????

[asrainox]

Ok ok. I got an enquiry to give up some more recent pictures of the build, so I'll try to catch up over a few posts. Not far away now, for me.

I stopped photographing for a whle while I attatched the rest of the foredeck beams and side-deck carlines. I then cut the cabin sides to size, and epoxied these in as they go in before the cabin roof, with the carlines providing the reference angle for the angle of the cabin sides.



There's some trial beams in place cut to the curve of the cabin-top to test the angles on the cabin-sides. All looks ok here so far.




Just a nice angle I think. And, it gives you all an idea just how little space I have to work in.




A view forward. A trial varnish to see the colour, going to need touchups later of course, and lovely slatted drainage well covers out of Jarrah.

Then this happened.




In the end my under-floor, cabin support and cabin beams are all Hoop Pine, which has proven itself to me as strong, stable and easy to work. I've since been able to easily stand on top of the finished cabin roof with no flex while figuring out the hatch area, so I'm pretty happy with that decision. Ply went in ok, but took longer than expected for the cabin floor due to waterproofig the underfloor area and dividing it into floatation. I didn't document the process, as documenting 3x coats of epoxy on a really tricky, fiddly shaped bilge area is not my idea of fun. Actually, 3x epoxying said area is also not my idea of fun. I assume that it's penance for the amount of fun I usuall have out here in my shed.

TBC

[asrainox]

The cabin roof beams were a pain, but no worse than I expected except that there was a little unexpected asymmetry in my cabin sides (the starboard was either inboard by 1/2" over 15" rise, or the port was out by that much. Not sure which. It threw off a whole lot of framing making each side slighly less...well....aligned than it was meant to be. It was pretty obvious inthe beginning and I was very annoyed, but it got better.

This is the aft-cabin bulkhead framing with vertical bearers halved into the horizontal ones and checked into the frame - all epoxy glued and checked for true. they look wonky here, but they're not. This was a trial fit before the final get-go.




I decided to be smart (for about the first time this build), and pre-painted the cabin roof. I marked out the beam locations and masked these off for epoxy later, and so all I should need to do is paint a 5mm stripe at the edge of each section made by the crosing beams making the overhead-painting job a lot more pleasant. Worked a treat!




But before that happened, the aft bulkhead got more framing to define the companionway hatch, and got bulkhead-er-ised. WHAM-POW




Again, looks wonky, and unfortunately this one is. The starboard side of the companionway door suffers from that 1/2" over 15" malady I created by skewing the cabin roof beams. I didn't have a lot of choice though, as to correct it now would mean the hatchway cutout wouldn't be square. It was a choice between slightly off-square hatch, or slightly offsquare companionway door. I think I made the right call, but my swearing was heard for miles.

The roof!



And under the roof!




I tried to be smart by also pre-varnishing the internal cabin beams and being very careful around masking off for glue squeezeout. Worked reasonably well

TBC

[asrainox]

My roof.



The view forward.



And, that's where I'll leave you today. I've moved well past this, but I lost a lot of motivation to keep documenting my progress when I didn't really have anyone to show it to. As such, I hope you'll forgive some glaring gaps in the process. It also got very cold, very dark, very unpleasant and very frustrating for a while where I live and I was in a bit of a boatbuilding funk about only having about a foot of space down each side of the boat to work and move aroud in, as well as store all my gear in, including a 14" bandsaw, a 12" thicknesser, an 8" radial arm saw, a 10" tablesaw and all the assorted hand and power tools I've built up since I started with 1 $8 saw and a hammer. I was silly not to factor in working space, but I do all my machining outside, and bring it in to attatch. It's just much harder than it needs to be.

I'll dig out some photograps, and carry on from here at some point soon! In theory I'm going to start the initial locating of fittings and such this Saturday, so that gives you an idea. No paint on the topsides yet, but almost ready to figure out where to put my hardware.

Same bat time, Same bat channel folks!

[Larks]

She looks terrific, remember mate that there are plenty of people here wanting to see what you are doing so keep posting. Don't be put off if there's not a huge response sometimes, it doesn't mean we're not all looking on with great interest.

Where are you bye the way? Stick your location in your profile.

Cheers and keep posting
Greg

[skaraborgcraft]

Those hoop pine beams look great. Bummer about the offset, but live and learn,your next one wont end up with that issue!
Are you going to be making your own spars or going alloy? Cheers

[asrainox]

Are you going to be making your own spars or going alloy? Cheers

I've already financially inherited an alloy mast and boom, fully rigged, so I'll be starting out with that. However, I've also bought a set of plans for the TS16 detailing a gaff rig, which I plan to convert to (or just experiment with) once I've been sailing for a while. The gaff rig suits the kind of sailing I like to do, as I learned to sail on a gunter-rigged boat and like a split mast that can be reefed down well. Plus - prettier than marconi. Lower CoE as well.

The steps and stays seem to largely be more or less the same fixing points for both rigs, but I'll need to add in a running backstay when (if) I convert to the gaff.

[Stiletto]

She is looking good!

I have been watching your build from the beginning, havent posted because I have nothing to contribute.

Keep up the good work!

[skaraborgcraft]

Running backstays? Im not sure if you would really need them on such a short mast. Im wondering why i have not got the gaff option with my plans? Im wondering if its the same rig that is drawn for "chuckles"? For a marconi rig,its about as simple as i have ever seen and still posses a low CoE. I like gunter rig as an option for the TS.

[skaraborgcraft]

Running backstays? Im not sure if you would really need them on such a short mast. Im wondering why i have not got the gaff option with my plans? Im wondering if its the same rig that is drawn for "chuckles"? For a marconi rig,its about as simple as i have ever seen and still posses a low CoE. I like gunter rig as an option for the TS.

EDIT. Have you sealed the areas under the bunks for bouyancy or put foam under there? Evereything looks like a nice tight fit.

[asrainox]

EDIT. Have you sealed the areas under the bunks for bouyancy or put foam under there? Evereything looks like a nice tight fit.

Both. I'm a "Belt and Suspenders" kind of guy. I've turned everything below the floor height line in both cockpit and cabin into fully enclosed buoyancy, accessable through round, sealed access ports in case anything gets in, and to ventilate. The entire area in the cabin was 3x epoxy sealed, but unpainted (no chance of light). The cockpit underfloor area got the same treatement, but got 2 undercoats and 2 topcoats of marine enamel as well, as its more likely to get wet in the end due to through-hulls than the cabin is.

I did this by getting the closest fit possible by using a "Tick Stick" approach, then by patching any areas around frames that couldn't be accurately fitted whilst still getting the pieces into the boat with ply gusseting. Once that was done, I epoxy filleted the whole lot in and covered any gaps with a large-radius fillet at the corners to seal the edges well and watertight the whole arrangement.

To be sure, I hacked up the recommended Cubic Foot measurement of floatation in the form of closed-cell pool noodles, and chucked them into the sealed tanks before fixing them down. Just in case I ever get holed on something.

Belt. and suspenders.

About the Gaff plan, it's an optional extra page that details the rig in (wait for it) 2 small, indistinct pictures with sail measurements, and details about spar lengths and sections. I'd be happy to photograph them and give you a non-copyright-infringing peek if you'd like to see what they think a gaff TS16 looks like.

[asrainox]

So here's the view where we are.



Here's my completely-overkill winches, and the partially completed sliding hatch. Needs a finish varnish coat on top which it'll get as we draw closer to the end. It also still needs the brass running strips I've made up attached, which will attach to the base, and the rails it'll slide on bedded to the cabin-top. The hatch is Cedar and Kauri pine, with Kauri pine dowels plugging the screws. Nice and light, and pretty.



This bit of trim gave me a headache, but all works ok in the end. Trim is all PNG rosewood.





And I now just need to fix down the aft deck over the motor well and most of the big stuff is done. Trimmings and so on from then on. The coaming we see is now fully epoxied up with generous fillets. It's a hollow boxed coaming, and I elected not to make it storage. Just seemed like extra hassle for not much space really.



A view from aft



And that's sorta where we're at! Until next time.

[Larks]

If it's not too late to do so I'd encourage you to cut some storage holes in those box coamings, it may seem small space but as a secure place for winch handles, sunscreen and to throw your car keys when you're launching they are ideal, let alone for poking your coiled sheet ends into.

Where are you planning on mounting your winches? I don't have any on my TS16 and haven't felt the need for them but then I don't race mine and could only really think they'd be handy for trimming the heady' if racing, or perhaps flying a kite. If you've got them you may as well use them.

[asrainox]

If it's not too late to do so I'd encourage you to cut some storage holes in those box coamings.

I'm still able, I've got a good set of hole-saws and a little sabre saw good for doing shallow cuts in ply. I just thought it might not be a good idea as it can turn the coaming into a rot-box, as the drainage and keeping it from filling with dirt and gunk can be hard. Also compromises the integrity a little?

Regarding the sheet ends, I'm going to turn a set of belaying pins, mounted on the aft cabin bulkhead as the jib cleats off on the cabin's top. Should be plenty neat! Winch handles is a good point though.

Where are you planning on mounting your winches?

Side of the cabin-top on a hardwood base, angled to get a good attack at the sheeting angle. Though, I'm not sold on them yet. I'd think I'll add them if I do decide to get a kite. Otherwise, it's way too much overkill, and will just clutter the other lines on the roof up. They do make setting mainsail luff tension easy though. And, they make a really satisfying noise. clkclkclkclk rrrrrrrrrrrrr clkclkclk.

[asrainox]

This weekend's job is mocking out and finishing up my transom-mounted traveller beam. I'm going to laminate a beam to hold one of the low-profile type traveller tracks from Ronstan/Harken, and I felt like a curved beam would look nicer. The tracks will handle a modest curve without issue, so I thought what the heck. I tried unsuccessfully to use a solid wood beam cut to the curve, but with the curvature of the back deck I found my piece of 6" wide NG rosewood wouldn't give me the rise I needed to make room for the tiller adequately. I didn't want to skimp on the tiller strength by making my tiller thinner, so I was forced into laminating.

Here's the two blocks and a trial bend of a piece of Hoop (going to laminate alternate layers of NG rosewood and hoop for the tiller beam, which will sit atop the end-blocks you see here. Probably will cut them to about 30mm (1 1/4") wide x 10mm (3/8") deep, and laminate 5 layers for a total dimension of 30mm(1 1/4") x 50mm (2"). Remembering that cube of the thickness rule, I figured it'd make sense to have the 2" dimension going depth-wise, right? I'm no engineer. Any suggestions on the suitability of my planned dimensions for a curved beam for a 125 sq ft main end-boom sheeting, let me know!







Cheers!

[andrewpatrol]

Hi As, dunno if I'm throwing a spanner in the works but how you going to operate the outboard with traveller in the way, tilting up and tiller etc.
andrew

[Larks]

A pair of spanners perhaps Andrew, because that was my first thought as well. Though the outboard could probably not be too much of a problem if mounted on a fold up bracket (that you'd need for a standard or short leg outboard), however my own preference is the long leg outboard mounted directly to the transom.

I'd be more annoyed about not being able to lift my tiller up as I stand up or when I want it out of the way when anchored, though a tiller extension could resolve the standing need and a pin to remove the tiller could resolve the "get it out of the cockpit" need.

[asrainox]

Hi As, dunno if I'm throwing a spanner in the works but how you going to operate the outboard with traveller in the way, tilting up and tiller etc.
andrew

the outboard could probably not be too much of a problem if mounted on a fold up bracket

I've got a standard length outboard, and will have it on a folding bracket. Exactly. The throttle pivots as well, so will be possible to have it under/over the traveller bar depending on stand/sit arrangements. I've seen it work before

a tiller extension could resolve the standing need and a pin to remove the tiller could resolve the "get it out of the cockpit" need

Precisely. I'm laminating a curved tiler to come underneath the bar, but sit at a comfortable working height. Plus, it'll have a short extension for the necissary occasions!

Well answered, Larks! Took the words right out of my mouth.

[Larks]

I had a well crafted bit of broom stick as my tiller extension for a while but was given a Ronstan "battlestick" for Chrissy one year and love it.....(partially because I just like the name "Battlestick", but mostly because it's a great bit of kit)

[asrainox]

So, Carrying on.

I've glued down the aft deck, cut the motor well properly, laminated the aft traveller beam and glued the whole lot in. Some photographs.

[asrainox]

...and Continued.













Next up, I'm capping the coamings with more New Guinea Rosewood, and trimming the aft cabin bulkhead, as well as installing rails on the cabin roof for the hatch to slide in. There's still a few jobs to go (hah!) but I'm getting there increasingly quickly!

Till next time.

[Larks]

Very nice work. Looks like you're on track to be in the water well before Christmas???

[asrainox]

I'm hoping before the end of Term 4 (I'm a high-school art/woodwork teacher). It's pretty hard to get it done around the planning and working week that goes into running my classes so the school holidays is my time to make hefty progress!

[Mitziel]

I admire your work but suspect you might regret running the coamings straight aft from the cabin.

Racing craft do this but keep the coaming low so the crew weight can most easily be moved outboard. But for a cruising craft, this arrangement wipes out a good portion of usable side-deck space.

Pics of Richard Hartley in his own early TS show he preferred the coamings to go athwart from the cabin and then along the gunwhales. Now that I don't race mine, I've done the same and found that the extra space makes a big difference to onboard comfort.

Just a thought...cheers