16ft Dory build.

[goat]

Had to stop play this morn.

Mental note to self "do not run your thumb along the edge of the putty knife to clean excess epoxy off (especially after you have been using the belt sander to clean it!)".



Wont be doing that again in a hurry.

[Breakaway]

Ouch--they do work well when sharpened though!

kevin

[goat]

It certainly added "blood" to the "sweat and tears" part of the build.

what length and beam did it turn out to be

Measured roughly this morning, 16ft and around 6'3" beam, will have to check the beam once she is right side up.

[goat]

Finsished off today with some sanding and tidied up the transom, cut the profile.



You can just make out a pencil line marking the sheer line and curve. Will cut that after I have glassed it. Transom will be overhung (as it were). This will alow for a 4" long board extending past the transom that you can put your foot on to get into the back, plus somewhere to mount the transducer. I will cut out a bit in the very center so the outboard can sit properly. Will also give me 4" extra length in the waterline and actually give less drag.

[goat]

Fitted a cap on the stem in the last couple of days and faired things off around there. Looks like a lot but its only 2-3mm thick.

[JTLogan]

What type of fairing compound are you using?

[floatingkiwi]

Goin like hell mate. This thread should be a sticky just on the sheer go at it and get it done attitude, if anything.You'll be fishing shortly.

[goat]

What type of fairing compound are you using?

2 pot epoxy pre mixed stuff. I cant be bothered using that West system or similar. The one where you add powders to resin etc etc.

This is easy and dries hard and is easy to sand. 1 part is white, the other muddish gray color. Like real soft butter when you mix it. Takes a day to go off.

[goat]

Glassed the hull today. 200gm 6oz cloth.



One side down, next.








Used maybe 3.5L resin to get wetted out roughly.

Lap joint is right on the line of the rubbing strips which is nice. Wasnt bad going really.

****

I would like to add, the sadest news I have seen on TV this year and overall for some time. Dan Wheldon was one of my fav Indy car drivers after Scott Dixon.

Rest in peace Dan. Thanks for the memories.

[goat]

Been a bit busy lately and have mainly been filling/sanding so not many exciting pictures. I have shot 29 rosellas howver.

Finished sanding anyway.

Started on the rubbing strips or strakes whatever fancy's you. These are kauri, sacrificial hardwood will be glued to these. They will be 2" wide and 1.5" high.





And the two outside ones added.

[pipefitter]

Nice job and looks like a nice boat.

[goat]

Nice job and looks like a nice boat.

Cheers. Like the look of that boat in your avatar too.

[gstanfield]

Very nice progress. I like what you've got going there!

George

[goat]

Almost finished the hull. Glued the hardwood rubbing strips onto the kauri. I used some kwila decking timber dressed up, my mates just pulled it off a deck somewhere so I stole some, ripped it down and bevelled the edges.

It glues well, I tested a bit before using it. Pays to have a sharp blade cutting this stuff, not as hard as Aussie Jarrah however which is the hardest timber I have ever come accross.







Faired off the front end.







Should be finishing this up after a bit of sanding and flipping her over this week.

[goat]

Yeah, I see your point. Now I had thought about this for about a week. In the end I thought, 1 1/2" it is. Mainly because the kauri was already ripped to the thickness it was and I could be bothered ripping the kwila down cause its just to hard and I was by myself.

My thinking was this; She is flat bottomed. If/when she sits on the bottom and goes dry she needs to be clear of the odd rock etc, even though I am pretty careful. I figure she will sink about 1/2" to an 1" in soft mud/sand that we have in my main harbour here anyway which leaves about 1" on most days. Not a lot really.

If she does sit on a sharp rock and go dry then someone jumps on board I may end up with a repair. We will see.

Its not that hard to plain some off after a season of use but I am picking once she swings around on the anchor a few times in the sand these will lose 1/4" anyway. The edge I can plain back easy if they are too and catch when I trailer it, we will see.

That was how I came up with 1 1/2" tall.

[PaulT]

Hello Goat:
I'm late coming to this thread, but wanted to say the boat looks great! Nice work.. Looking forward to seeing it in the watebr />
PaulT

[wely]

I like what you have done so far. I have plans for the surfmaster 27 dory and i'm building up the nerve to start my build.

[wely]

Here is what the surfmaster 19 looks like my version is http://www.instantboats.com/downeastdories/images/smasterstudyplan1large.jpg
Low power dory for surf fishing. I like you don't want to spend alot of money on fuel.

[goat]

Question time.

I want to run a conduit from the centre console to a back corner of the boat to carry steering cable (Teleflex) FNR controls and some wiring.

What size conduit should I run. Obviously there is some minimum radius that the Teleflex controls will bend.



Ive searched the net for this simple answer.

Where are these things even measured from etc to get the length right. I will probably buy it before making the console in any event to avoid a balls up

Help?

[wely]

Here is a picture of rigging on a boat. different website.
http://gallery.bateau2.com/albums/us.../19530/123.jpg
looks to be about 3" pipe.

[goat]

It will become clear a little further on why I am running steering cable in pipe [for want of an easier word]. In breif, under the floor is water/air tight, made of 2 seperate bulkheads. If I simply run the steering cable thru one hole and out another that "space" is no longer air water/air tight.

If I hole the hull, the only thing keeping water form poaring in is air pressure to a degree. No, I am not using foam under the floor, IMHO that is not a good idea although I see a lot of ppl doing that (including a mate of mine who then had to chip it all out cause he did hole the hull and water got in making his boat weigh about a ton.

Cheers for the link but I live in NZ. Shipping costs on big items is OTT.

More pics.

Flipped today



Removed frames

[goat]

Continued...


Will rig a spreader across mid ship to keep the shape until I get the side decks on, lost about 1/2" when I took out the middle frame. Just have to be careful not to install anything that will distort the lines.












Bit of an idea of the flare at the front.





Happy.

More work.

[floatingkiwi]

Cool shape. I was gonna put stuff out of the way in my boat and also poured foam under a floor, that I later chopped out, as I found it better for the air, and me, to be able to get at everything. My steering cable just sits where it can, pretty stiff, and runs wide out over the gunwale, near the stern, ( but the stern is narrow on my boat),to get the angle back to the control arm on the motor. Not the best but it works and kinda goes unnoticed amongst the mud and fish and scenery.

[wely]

I have seen numerous flees boats with the pipe put under the flour to run the rigging. I do have a problem with foam under the floor.always seems to get water under there. I believe a sealed air tight bottom with an access panel would be good.I like the access panel because you could always open it up to look for water. I always try to think safety and ease of maintenance down the road.

Sent from my Dell Streak 7 using Tapatalk

[goat]

Yeah, I forgot to add I will have inspection hatches in the floor, those round 4"-5" jobs. If for nothing else other than smuggling cocaine.

Slapped 2 coats (around 4L) of Everdure 2 pack wood sealer inside today. Should make it last for the next 100years!

Only need 1 bottle of beer this evening and Im nicely toasted, that stuff is strong.

Anyhows, pics.

Mocked up the steering a bit. Got an idea where I want the console.





Inside. The string line is where the false floor sits, about 6" above the hull. Slopes up to the bow, so when I take a big green back off the coast it will drain out quickly.

Where the spirit level is sitting is about where the seat for rowing will sit. It all works out in my head anyway.

[floatingkiwi]

Are you gonna build frames and thwarts inside , for strength?

[goat]

Youve lost me on the term thwarts.

No frames. One bulkhead in the front one in the rear for the engine well etc.

Floor will be braced up a fair bit.

Up, side deck will add strength.

Im on my 3rd beer and all the epoxy fumes are making it hard to type and think.

Um.... does that answer anything?

[wely]

Thwarts are the seat boards that cross the hull from side to side.

Sent from my Dell Streak 7 using Tapatalk

[goat]

Short answer [thwarts], yes. There is also a side decking going full length aorund 150mm wide.

[floatingkiwi]

Youve lost me on the term thwarts.

No frames. One bulkhead in the front one in the rear for the engine well etc.

Floor will be braced up a fair bit.

Up, side deck will add strength.

Im on my 3rd beer and all the epoxy fumes are making it hard to type and think.

Um.... does that answer anything?

Ah, yeah. By thwarts I meant the athwartship members onst ye old floor, sorry, sole. On the bottom.There is usually one at and tying to, each frame.What are those called? Ties?
Beer 6.

[goat]

Setting up the floor. One of the pics you can see a sharp change in angle. Basically from the console aft there is a 1.5" fall in the floor. Forward of that up to the stern about 3". Means any water that ends up coming over the front will drain quickly to the aft section.

Got the levels right, glued a cleat or whatever you want to call it around the edge to carry the edge of the floor [ply]. There will be some more bracing in there dont panic, floor ply is only 6mm so will need plenty of stiffening.

[goat]

And so it goes...

Spacing is 250mm apart.



Will form a sandwich type construction between the hull and floor and make her stiff as a honeymooner.

There will be front sections also. Its just easier to make it up to the change in angle.

[potomac]

And so it goes...

Spacing is 250mm apart.



Will form a sandwich type construction between the hull and floor and make her stiff as a honeymooner.

There will be front sections also. Its just easier to make it up to the change in angle.

Wow. Stiff as a honeymooner. I'm going to have to use that one- in the right company. Looking good.

[floatingkiwi]

Stiff is good.
Speaking of honeymoons, we spent some time in Breckenridge, Colorado. Our hotel, or at least one of them, was at over 10,000 feet in altitude.
One must be careful.

[goat]

Progress slowed, been busy lately.

Floor supports all in now anyway. Just cutting the floor panels today then we had a power cut.






Floor ply is 9mm gaboon ply. 3 sheets of this is only 3.8kg hevier than 3 sheets of 6mm meranti, its nice stuff.