New Welsford Design - Nautilus sailing Canoe

[keyhavenpotterer]

Here is a first view of this new design from John Welsford. She is 15'5" x 38", 60 sq ft, her forward and aft hatches lift to form either end of a sleeping tent for overnighting aboard. She is also set up for sliding thwart rowing with short folding outriggers. Built from 4mm ply with 5 planks per side. She will have approx 250 litres of buoyancy and will be stable enough to climb aboard when swamped. She has twin assymetric bilgeboards which pierce through the side decks to keep any water out of the cockpit. The boards will be weighted and there is also a water ballast tank to keep her nice and stable for us older sailors. The cockpit has lots of storage to hand as well as storage in the end tanks. She is reefable from the cockpit, the mainsail stows on the decks for rowing and sleeping aboard.

Sailing canoes were hugely popular in the 1880's and the Nautilus line of canoes by Baden-Powell were at the forefront of development. Ever since I stood next to a Nautilus last year and saw how full bodied and powerful it's hull shape was, I have dreamed of a new Nautilus, a proper cruising canoe designed for modern epoxy ply construction. I am just so pleased that John accepted my commission for this new Nautilus.

I do hope you like her, and with some trepidation ask for your comments.....

[Zane Lewis]

great. New design. Just on paper at this stage is it? looking forward to seeing more of that on. The would be John's first sliding seat and it interests me.
zane

[PeterSibley]

A canoe yawl ! Great ,she looks perfect ! But how competent a small boat sailor would someone need to be to stay vertical in her ?

[keyhavenpotterer]

great. New design. Just on paper at this stage is it? looking forward to seeing more of that on. The would be John's first sliding seat and it interests me.
zane

John is drawing her right now, and really needs to be completed before he goes off to the US, so plans are not far away. the sliding thwart is a natural for this design. The thwart has to move forwards and backwards to clear the way for sleeping, so it's a very small addition to let her roll the small distance that's needed for the legs to bend - between 12 ans 16 inches is all that is needed. I enjoy rowing much more with added skill needed and extra power supplied by using my legs.

[keyhavenpotterer]

A canoe yawl ! Great ,she looks perfect ! But how competent a small boat sailor would someone need to be to stay vertical in her ?

I too thinks she looks great - really sweet - John will be pleased to hear these positive reactions. The whole point of this design is that she takes her blood lines from the heavy full bodied powerful forms of the 1880's Nautilus designs. John is exactly the right designer to produce such a hull form for a new Nautilus. She has water ballast and weighted bilge boards so I think we have done as much as possible in the planning to make a predictable handling boat. We are just going to have to get her on the water and let people try her.

[skaraborgcraft]

Congrats Brian, and well done John. She looks great. My only question is with such a narrow beam,are the two bilge boards absolutely neccessary? What with Scamp and Walkabout having just the one.....im curious. I can understand the system in a Fairy Atlanta,but in such a wee boat im not so sure. Was this a design requirement?

I can see someone is going to have a huge grin all next summer. Cheers

[keyhavenpotterer]

Probably not, but what great upwind performance from a well submerged assymetric board!!

I described to John how well my sailing canoe went upwind on port tack with the starboard mounted leeboard well immersed. Not as good on the other tack, especially when short tacking in strong tide. Also being surface piercing they catch floating weed badly, much more than immersed boards in the same conditions.

Since we are wanting really good sailing performance, when John suggested twin assymetric boards how could I refuse. Will be fun trying an assymetric foil upwind. I think they will also be useful when sailing downwind. Both boards half down should help steady her when sailing off the wind. In fact it's downwind that is the least stable for long thin hulls such as these, so I think the twin boards might work out well.

Brian

[Hwyl]

Thanks Brian, you made my morning.

[JDMH]

Brian she looks like a real cracker ! Definitely something interesting to build when my SCAMP is done. What sort of dry weight has John estimated for her, will she be a car topper ? I presume the rudder will have foot controls like a Klepper or will you just have hand lines around the cockpit ? Keep us posted on how she develops.

[keyhavenpotterer]

Glad you like her John. I think she will be about 45kg, but that's just my guess. The car top issue was one of the very early discussions. Any 16' x 38" hull is a handful to control even if very light on your own. Add structure to control hull twist imposed by the rig and she quickly starts to weight more than say a very light canvas decked canoe. So we agreed to go for a boat which would be a very light trailer boat, very easy to move around,launch and launch off a beach alone . I think I can still car top her if crossing to France to save ferry costs, two people lifting on and off the roofrack, but for all other uses it's much easier with a light trailer. Am going to try and create a lightweight alloy bolted and riveted trailer which can be built from home.
Foot pedals sound a very useful addition, and Howard Rice has also recommended them highly. Will include if we can, we have the rowing and sleeping aboard sorted, so will try and include foot peddles.

Brian

[skaraborgcraft]

Probably not, but what great upwind performance from a well submerged assymetric board!!

I described to John how well my sailing canoe went upwind on port tack with the starboard mounted leeboard well immersed. Not as good on the other tack, especially when short tacking in strong tide. Also being surface piercing they catch floating weed badly, much more than immersed boards in the same conditions.

Since we are wanting really good sailing performance, when John suggested twin assymetric boards how could I refuse. Will be fun trying an assymetric foil upwind.

Brian

Im sure im not the only one waiting for the build thread to commence,and even more interested in hearing how she performs. On the trailer question, tricky stuff with EU law these days,not so much of a problem in UK with a homebuilt......as long as you dont have any accidents with it! Cheers

[obscured by clouds]

If you are going for twin assymetric boards, why not toe them in a tad, and get an even better lift to windward. [Uffa would ]

[NickW]

Brian

Very nice. Looks like you've commissioned another Welsford winner! Just a thought but have you considered using outriggers for even more stability but at the cost of manouverabilty, extra weight, complications etc. It would make a very cosy cruising tri.

Nick

[Todd Bradshaw]

Looks good! You may find the reefing from the cockpit to be a real pain in the butt with modern, crunchy Dacron sails. That was something that worked fine in the old cotton sail days, but Dacron puts up a much bigger fight when you try to remotely get it neatly bundled up, but time will tell. Also, your nose is too long and pointy....not the boat's nose, your nose.

[keyhavenpotterer]

Brian

Just a thought but have you considered using outriggers for even more stability but at the cost of manouverabilty, extra weight, complications etc. It would make a very cosy cruising tri.

Nick

I use high carried outriggers on my current sailing canoe and they work very well indeed. I am really looking for a more classical style of the 1880's and as you say, less hassle when launching and putting her away in the dinghy park. Also, in the narrow Keyhaven channels it's a bit of a worry when all the moored boats are so close end to end, if you have to tack all the way through them. The outrigger beam sits just back from the mast, so I guess could be retro-fitted if we allowed for a beam in the structure. I am hoping the stability of the hull and water ballast, plus lower CoE of the sails will give me the confidence to enjoy her out in the Solent.
Brian

[PeterSibley]

Brian , if you look at my avatar you can see the reason for my enthusiasm .A Selway Fisher JIM , big sister !

[IanHowick]

No Transom? I'm curious about the pros and cons of a transom versus pointy at the back at this size. I've been working on a similar concept (probably for SOF), my original lines look quite similar to Johns, but I was in the process of changing it to a transom version for planing ability/more load and storage capacity at the back.

I understand that history says a canoe is by definition pointy at the back, but if history/tradition/traditional looks aren't an issue, what are the pros and cons?

Ian

[keyhavenpotterer]

No Transom? I'm curious about the pros and cons of a transom versus pointy at the back at this size. I've been working on a similar concept (probably for SOF), my original lines look quite similar to Johns, but I was in the process of changing it to a transom version for planing ability/more load and storage capacity at the back.

I understand that history says a canoe is by definition pointy at the back, but if history/tradition/traditional looks aren't an issue, what are the pros and cons?

Ian

Hopefully John may have some time to answer this more fully but here's my sailing experience in long thin hulls.

I think Ian, the way long thin hulls move through the water at higher speeds is a little different to wide planing hulls. Think of a Tornado catamaran hulls going at their very high speeds. The hulls don't plane in the wide bodied sense, of changing mode and lifting on the flatter aft sections. When sailing my current sailing canoe, in winds of say 15 to 22 knots, she simply frees herself of "displacement" sailing speeds and sets off at "planing" speeds without the lift or difficulty of breaking free. It's a very clear speeding up and brings great joy to this old man. Hugh Horton reports the same "planing" with Bufflehead and I have a picture some where of him with a rooster tail well behind the stern of the boat.
So, in my experience, a long slim hull like a sailing canoe does not need a planing square stern to move "quickly" (above displacement calculated speed) through the water.
Ian, a SOF carbon tubed version of Nautilus, like your superb SOF sea kayak, if she could be made stiff enough to hold the twist from the rigs, would be quite amazing.
Brian

[john welsford]

There are a few questions in the thread, so here goes.
She will be lapstrake plywood by the way, and there are thoughts of a kit being available.

Zane, I've done three rowing boats with sliding seats, Mollyhawk being the only one with plans available, the other two were custom designs. ( How y' goin, orrite?)

Peter, I'm aiming for stability such that a normal weight person could stand on her gunwale alongside a jetty and not put the rail under. The little bit of ballast is mostly to give her momentum when maneuvering in a head sea, the skippers weight being so low helps stability a lot and her flooding angle will be up around 50 deg from vertical, I dont anticipate capsizes but if somehow she is swamped there is so much enclosed volume that righting and bucketing her out wont be difficult.

Scaraborgcraft, she will indeed sail on one board, and I've used "offcenterboards" enough to know how well they work or dont, but we're hanging the rails for the sliding rowing seat on the inside faces of the 'cases and are also setting up a canvas sling bed supported by those and the bulkheads at each end. Twin boards also allow us to use assymetrical lifting foils. Obscured by Clouds, I've experimented with toe in to increase the angle of incidence, and found it counter productive as once the speed gets up to three knots or so the few degrees of leeway that the boat makes provides about the right amount of angle to the water flow. Any more angle than that and the drag goes up very quickly.

JDMH. Brian and I are still talking about the steering, he's favouring long push pull tillers, I prefer either rudder lines or foot pedal, but we dont have to make that choice until the boats well along.

Todd, the reefing sytem will be the single line slab reefing system that I've used on several boats, well proven, no problems. It doesnt look as tidy as the fully tied in reef points, but the ocean racing guys havn't used that in years, the lazyjacks stop the bunt of the sail from fluttering about, and being able to reef kneeling in the cockpit rather than having to make it to shore is essential. That nose by the way, is for seeking out the wind, as in " he's got a good nose for it". Bigger is better.

Ian, Sailing canoes are traditionally double ended, and part of the brief is to produce a boat that continues the tradition. A transom would give more stability, allow a little more sail, be slightly faster in a breeze but it wouldnt be a sailing canoe.

John Welsford

[IanHowick]

Hopefully John may have some time to answer this more fully but here's my sailing experience in long thin hulls.

I think Ian, the way long thin hulls move through the water at higher speeds is a little different to wide planing hulls. Think of a Tornado catamaran hulls going at their very high speeds. The hulls don't plane in the wide bodied sense, of changing mode and lifting on the flatter aft sections. When sailing my current sailing canoe, in winds of say 15 to 22 knots, she simply frees herself of "displacement" sailing speeds and sets off at "planing" speeds without the lift or difficulty of breaking free. It's a very clear speeding up and brings great joy to this old man. Hugh Horton reports the same "planing" with Bufflehead and I have a picture some where of him with a rooster tail well behind the stern of the boat.
So, in my experience, a long slim hull like a sailing canoe does not need a planing square stern to move "quickly" (above displacement calculated speed) through the water.
Ian, a SOF carbon tubed version of Nautilus, like your superb SOF sea kayak, if she could be made stiff enough to hold the twist from the rigs, would be quite amazing.
Brian

Hi Brian, yes I agree with what you've writen above regarding long narrow hulls. I think that for me, it will come down to which way is easier to build. A transom means the lines/stringers have to pull in less acutely at the back, and possibly the transom adds reserve buoyancy and storage space/load capacity at the back. As I said, I'm leaning towards a transom SOF, with concept and lines similar to John W's (Sailing plus sliding seat rowing, leeboards plus room to sleep in the middle), but construction also inspired to an extent by Dave Gentry's Ruth - 7 stringers and a Transom. 4 five metre long Carbon Stringers recycled from my kayak for the chines, kayak paddle shaft (larger) diameter spiraflex glass tube for the keel and gunwale stringers. Biggest challenge as you say will be managing the torsional loads from the rig if it's to be a real sailor rather than a row plus downwind rig boat, but I've got some ideas I'm working on. Must stop thread drifting/hijacking... I'll send you some details and/or post a new thread if anyone is interested.

Just crossed postings with John W, so this is edited in:

Ian, Sailing canoes are traditionally double ended, and part of the brief is to produce a boat that continues the tradition. A transom would give more stability, allow a little more sail, be slightly faster in a breeze but it wouldnt be a sailing canoe.

John Welsford

Yes John, thought this was how things stacked up, thanks for the answer.

Ian

[Hwyl]

Here's the original Nautilus

[David Geiss]

Count my vote against pedals; too restrictive IMHO. Norwegian push-pull tiller (or tillers) will let the sailor move fore/aft and.or athwartships as required and will let the more acrobat minded limber sailor sit up on the rail, or throw the lower legs over the rails to windward.
John, stellar design and incisive thinking as usual. Max beam of 38 inches amidships with that nice tumblehome should be a dream under sail.
For myself, I would not object to 16'5". Could even steer her with a paddle and a paddle crutch along the gunwales, but that's a different conversation........
Trailex 250 alum trailer would be about right for her and can be shipped UPS, or similar, and bolted together in situ.
Best,
David

PS, not sure how the backrest is configured or how the rear deck commences but based upon the drawing, seems that the cockpit could be enlarged aft slightly........might make it possible to have a second on board for day outings.

[john welsford]

Your point is valid, but there is no reason why both tiller lines and pedals cant be combined, and with a built in seat and backrest the skippers position does not usually alter much so the option of sitting in comfort with sheets in hand and steering with feet is attractive.

This is a slightly higher volume boat than the original Nautilus shown above, much more stable, and the rig is simpler ( mainly due to the stability of modern sailcloth meaning no battens etc ). My intention here is to produce a real cruiser suited to someone not interested in physically demanding sailing, hence armchair comfort, light weight to manhandle around, easy to rig and un, but with sufficient speed to make her fun to sail.
We're talking a loaded displacement to length ratio of about 40 or 50 here, thats in the high performance multihull zone and there will be points of sail where she will easily exceed her theoretical hull speed, even with her pointy stern.

To get the rig and the offcenterboard ( s) in the right place for the ergonomics, I've had to use more of the rudder to contribute to the lateral plane than I'd do otherwise. The skippers position is set by the best position for his weight, thats set by the best position for the center of bouyancy, thats --etc etc --- on and on, all linked, so steering this particular boat with a paddle over the side wont work.

Thanks for the compliment, this is a fun project, I've not done as much design work as I'd like for quite a while now and its good to be back at the drawing board.

John Welsford

Count my vote against pedals; too restrictive IMHO. Norwegian push-pull tiller (or tillers) will let the sailor move fore/aft and.or athwartships as required and will let the more acrobat minded limber sailor sit up on the rail, or throw the lower legs over the rails to windward.
John, stellar design and incisive thinking as usual. Max beam of 38 inches amidships with that nice tumblehome should be a dream under sail.
For myself, I would not object to 16'5". Could even steer her with a paddle and a paddle crutch along the gunwales, but that's a different conversation........
Trailex 250 alum trailer would be about right for her and can be shipped UPS, or similar, and bolted together in situ.
Best,
David

PS, not sure how the backrest is configured or how the rear deck commences but based upon the drawing, seems that the cockpit could be enlarged aft slightly........might make it possible to have a second on board for day outings.

[PeterSibley]

Interesting John ,any ideas of a list of ply yet ? 5 sheets of 4mm ?

[David Geiss]

JW, On second look, I see what you are getting at on the rudder contributing significantly to the lateral plane.
Perhaps a paddle steering set up for your lovely Nautilus is a naive thought born of my natural aversion to rudders on canoes.
Might feel different a decade from now though.

That's a canoe that real easy on the eyes and should be able to admirably handle some swell and chop in a modest blow in the hands of a capable skipper! Well done and you've brought a design from more than a century ago to the present day!!!!!!

Best,
DG

[RodSBT]

John, this may be a sin to some but would there be a possibility of plans for strip construction?

And very beautiful canoe, looks to be just right!

[john welsford]

No problem, same plans, same moulds, just strip it, 1 1/2in x 5/16 Western red cedar with 6 oz glass both sides.

JohnW

John, this may be a sin to some but would there be a possibility of plans for strip construction?

And very beautiful canoe, looks to be just right!

[David G]

John,

That mizzen rig - a sprit-boomed leg-o-mutton?

I agree - it's a mighty pretty boat.

[keyhavenpotterer]

Looks good! You may find the reefing from the cockpit to be a real pain in the butt with modern, crunchy Dacron sails. That was something that worked fine in the old cotton sail days, but Dacron puts up a much bigger fight when you try to remotely get it neatly bundled up, but time will tell. Also, your nose is too long and pointy....not the boat's nose, your nose.

Your kind compliment means a lot to me Todd, thank you. Concentrating on really good form stability and starting from a Nautilus hull I had not expected such a lovely looking hull to appear on my computer screen when John sent the first sketch to me. Then John posts that I should be able to stand on the gunnel and she will be more stable than Nautilus, yet she look such a lovely shape - I just so wanted to bring back those wonderful cruising canoes of the 1880's - I can hardly believe it's really is happening.
I agree wil your comment about modern Dacron being bulky when bundled. I would really like to find a soft handled lightweight cloth that could look correct yet handle with far less bulk than the usual dacrons with all their filler. I am thinking something more like a spinnaker cloth, but in a parchment colour? Any suggestions. Brian

[PeterSibley]

I am thinking something more like a spinnaker cloth, but in a parchment colour? Any suggestions. Brian

That was what came to my mind too ,I doubt she will see toooo much wind .

[john welsford]

Thats right David, one of the issues in this type of boat is keeping the sheet loadings low, another is reduction of twist. That latter is very important as twist in either sail rolls the boat when running off, and in a relatively narrow boat thats an issue when the wind gets up.
So, the balance lug main and sprit boomed l.o.m. mizzen are both good choices in that respect, plus Brian is very familiar with the balance lug.

John Welsford

John,

That mizzen rig - a sprit-boomed leg-o-mutton?

I agree - it's a mighty pretty boat.

[Blowtorch]

Mr Welsford Do you have any plans for an Enlarged Pathfinder or something Similar, maybe 21-22 foot?

[keyhavenpotterer]

Before the internal combustion engine, before the great wars, a man found himself some adventure, in those times, with his sailing canoe. They ventured all over Europe in them, taking advantage of the industrial revolution's great powerhouse, the steam engine (they put them in the luggage compartment) and cruised far and wide. No marinas, no powerboats, little shipping. The cruising was typically along shore and offshore in good conditions. This neccessitated a more powerful and commodious hull form.

Gareth posted an original picture of Warrington Baden Powell with his Nautilus in black and white above, luckily a recent auction at Turks, UK (they sold off there collection used as film props) had an original Nautilus (there were several, as they were developed). Dad was outbid in the end, but he took some pictures of her. She was built in 1887. I'll post the pictures, so people can familiarise themselves with not just the original type, but an original boat's shape, rigging and construction details.












Edward (Brian's son).

[keyhavenpotterer]

[keyhavenpotterer]

[keyhavenpotterer]

(She sold for £6000/ $10000. She didn't have her rig, so dad couldn't see that).


1. There's a pin on the rear deck just aft the cockpit, that takes a second yoke - the front yoke connected to the aft yoke, which moves to move the rudder blade.
2. Offset mast, so the lug sails on the midline!
3. The planks are not lapped but butted, sitting on longitudinal stringers. The planks are very shaped - to give almost a carvel hull shape - possibly oversized planks planed concave/ convex, like someone might do for modern carvel at the turn of the bilges?
4. Interesting rudder - not just one bolt, but three attachment points on the lifting bronze rudder for strength, small shackle on aft rudder taking the line up through rudder head to a pivot point in line with the turning axis forward.
5. Hull form - her beam is carried well 'into the ends', for carriage over waves. This should also reduce pitchning when rowing her with a sliding thwart? With the beam carried well into the ends, there's a good amount of sheer at the ends, to keep her fry but also prevent the powderhorn affect when healed.
6. Two bilge stringers.
7. Centreboard pennant looks like it attaches to hook on the front yoke. There's two adjustable runners either side of the front cockpit sides?
8. Forward small cockpit spray hatch is removable and takes some rigging attachments.
9. On that last photo in b&w, the yard is very fine and tapered, but has a second shorter yard attached to it. Would this be to have an adjustable yard stiffness, for appropriate gust response? Aft sail is rolled up around mizzen mast.

For these boats modern materials and adhesives, should improve the type, allowing the hulls to be especially light and tight.

John Welsford's Nautilus will be a terrific rebirth for the Nautilus sailing canoe, with added more powerful oar propulsion with space to lie down on her among the reeds on a summers afternoon.

[Hwyl]

Great pictures, I noticed the offset mast too. That rudder looks complicated, in fact the rudder may be the bugbear. I see John has drawn a lifting rudder, would the lifting be accomplished by lines to the cockpit, kayak style, Should such a large rudder be semi balanced.

Exciting stuff, arthritis also precludes me from rowing, not in my dreams though

[Sailman58]

Just three words, "I want one" !!!

Ron

[NickW]

I am hoping the stability of the hull and water ballast, plus lower CoE of the sails will give me the confidence to enjoy her out in the Solent.
Brian

Brian, it was the Solent chop that I was thinking about when I suggested the outriggers.

Nick

[Dan Miller]

Warrington Baden-Powell didn't use outriggers.... just saying...

Seen here is Nautilus at the 1886 International Cup races held off Grindstone Island, St. Lawrence River, New York, USA.

[Hwyl]

Hmmm lugsail mizzen. I think Brian should go with a Thames Barge proportioned spritsail mizzen

[David Geiss]

I've sailed a bit in and about the ACA's Sugar Island in the Thousand Islands Region and that seaway gets some serious afternoon wind and swell.
No outriggers required, just movable ballast (i.e, helmsperson) a keen eye and judicious helm...........
Nice shot Dan! JW you have opened yourself to the world of canoe sailors...too late to pull back now!!!!!!!!

[keyhavenpotterer]

Thanks Gareth and Dan for posting those pictures. Not seen them before, the mainsail looks huge in both pictures. I read they used larger racing rigs and sand bags for racing. I am more used to this iconic picture, the sail area here is 35 sq ft main and 20 sq ft mizzen. When cruising they reefed the main and mizzen, then struck the main and used the mizzen rig in the mainsail position (masts had same diameter), the finally used the triangular storm sail alone, that's the one on it's side between the two masts.

[keyhavenpotterer]

Here's a picture of a sliding thwart set up on a Melonseed. It's from a very pleasant outing by sail and oar. We will use short folding outriggers to gain the required rowlock separation. Dave comments that he achieves about 30' per oar stroke will the sliding thwart. I think this is why I enjoy rowing much more with a sliding seat. It's that slower but more effective stroke rate. Learning the timing is such a nice skill to practice. It's quite surprising how short a distance the seat actually moves. From a standing position, try lifting one foot off the ground as high as your other knee. That represents the full movement of the legs when rowing with a sliding seat, and how far your bottom slides. It's not far at all, about 18".

http://www.ghboats.com/2011/06/unscheduled-sunday/

[Hwyl]

Warrington Baden-Powell didn't use outriggers.... just saying...

Seen here is Nautilus at the 1886 International Cup races held off Grindstone Island, St. Lawrence River, New York, USA.

The sails appear way overtrimmed. I wonder if it's to keep the boom out of the water, or just a set up for the photographer. Those brailing lines for the reef set up are interesting........plenty of strings

[Howard Rice]

Nice thread.
The sailing canoe may be the best all around "Personal Watercraft" of all. Forget the jet ski, sailing canoes are the best of all PWC's. They can be perfect for many uses. Many can be easily shouldered or lifted, can satisfy speed lovers, caress the less than limber in arm chair comfort, be paddled, sailed or rowed in the tightest of places like mangroves and channels. Thoughtfully prepared canoe sailors can cross blue water. Voyaging, fishing, one design racing, day sailing all from a boat hanging in your garage rafters when not in use. The sailing canoe has crossed oceans, explored remote island chains and managed raging rivers around the world. Baden Powell and his contemporaries were on to something special in an era of quickly changing technology and soon dropped from sight.

The sailing canoe is an ancient design concept yet sadly never to be fully understood or appreciated by many. Tippy, purchased at Walmart, etc. Few small boats can match the modern sailing canoe (including this new version of Nautilus by John Welsford) for sailing feel, safety capability and asethetic beauty.

Solo or double, yawl, sloop, cat, gunter, lug or sloop rigged there are many options. Lots of beam or narrow, Micronesian or open sailing canoe the genre can meet the use needs of many. On board tents or ample room to carry shore side camping gear. Sailing canoes can have little near shore environmental impact if the sailors know what they are doing.

Perhaps an interesting and educational thread here might be: What Is The Best Personal Watercraft?

My PWC view is badly skewed toward the sailing canoe and the micro mini cruiser genre based on intended use. For me this is the desire to take short two to three day cruises and explorations. It is also the need to squeeze in a one hour sail after work. The sailing canoe is hard to beat.

In 2012 there will be a "Small Boat Skills Academy" open boat cruising educational opportunity scheduled at three or four locations around the US. Sailing Canoes are in the curriculum. About time I'd say.

[Chip-skiff]

Wonderful thread! Great thanks in particular to John Welsford, and to all who've contributed.

This fascinates me:



What a madly intricate bit of work. The original steered with lines, I reckon. Easy to build a hybrid system that could steer with lines or a push-pull stick.

[keyhavenpotterer]

Fabulous engineering and materials.

The rudder head pivots on pintails/ gudgeons, but the upper and lower rudder head gudgeons, are tube crafted into the forward part of the bronze rudder head. The lines snap shack on, then they go forward to a yoke that pivots on that pin that you can see sticking up, just aft the cockpit (that yoke is missing on the boat). From there, there is a line of sight to the forward yoke, to be controlled by the helmsman (knees or feet).

The rudder blade boasts more than the usual pivot point, the aft bolt is allowing the rudder blade to pivot and still slide up and down, but also further resists any lateral movement of the rudder blade with respect to the head. Further there are those open tangs on the rudder blade's aft surface which also allow the blade to slide up and down the head, whilst simultaneously also resisting lateral movement. Rudder uphaul, attaches to that small shackle on the aft rudder blade, up through a slot in the rudder head, forward to an eye above the pivot point, so the blade doesn't move as the rudder turns. Nice shape blade, even by modern standards, for a boat built over a hundred years ago.

It would now be seen as overkill perhaps, especially on a small sailing canoe, but these were Victorian pioneers and engineering (especially metal) was a big deal in Victorian times: this was the height of the industrial revolution, building trains, iron bridges etc. These were the wealthy gentry's adventure boats who could afford the bronze materials and engineering and construction work: these "new" centreboards and lifting rudders were a departure from typical small boat construction at the time which was mostly all workboat, straight keel, solid rudder affairs. With a modern sailing canoe one could chose to replicate period details.

You can just make out the aft yoke pivots behind the helmsan's head


And just forward of the mizzen mast. The details look so much the same, the Nautilus in the auction I think must be the Nautilus in these old black and white photographs.

[Adrian V]

I think this design looks brilliant! The thing that really attracts me (as Howard outlines) is that the design seems so versatile. I have just started building an Angus Expedition rowboat http://www.angusrowboats.com/expedition.html , but it has always niggled me that while it is obviously a good rowboat, the best I could hope for sailing wise would likely be a downwind kayak sail or similar. I think I may hold off on the building front for a while and see how this one pans out

This design seems more of a rowing/sailing compromise than a paddling/sailing compromise and that's right up my alley, but I would be very interested to hear how well she is likely to sail and how fast/easily she could realistically be rowed and how seaworthy she might be?

Finally, one thing I like about the Angus design is that when it is righted the cockpit is almost dry and once back in you could be up and away relatively quickly; I wonder if this would be possible with the Nautilus design?

Cheers,

Adrian

[Adrian V]

Bump.... if for no other reason than it looks such a terrific design

Brian any updates? Is the boat going to be sheathed/ encapsulated or just painted? Would it be possible to combine pedals, lines and removable push/pull tillers? Might it be possible to still use the rudder when rowing (just enough to help with maintaining a heading)? Although the boat is designed to be sailed from inside the cockpit, will it still be possible to hike out? Where will you put the oars and sliding seat when you are sailing?

Cheers,

Adrian