Hey John, I was wondering why you chose to attach the strips of osb to the bottom when doing the glue up? Are they to help you to align the sheet?
Tim
Hey John, I was wondering why you chose to attach the strips of osb to the bottom when doing the glue up? Are they to help you to align the sheet?
Tim
I used the strips to make sure the screws didn't go all the way through the bottom. Also it keeps the head of the screw from digging a hole into the plywood.
Today I finally glued the rest of the frames on and started shaping the stem head. I am not that happy with the way the forward set of frames came out. I should have spent a little more time shaping them. Oh well, I just used a lot of thickened epoxy to fill any gaps. Next up will be installing the seat risers. Hopefully the mahogany I have will bend in ok. I may end up having to try pre-bending them if they are too stiff. I'm not sure about cutting the angle on the top for the seats to rest on. It doesn't seem like it would be the same the entire length bow to stern. If it's not I'm not sure how it could be cut anyway. If anyone has any ideas I'd like to hear from you.
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That is one proud stem!
"A man builds the best of himself into a boat- builds many of the memories of his ancestors." -Steinbeck
John,
She's looking great! Your attention to detail is amazing. The top of the stem shaping looks really good,. that is one detail im concerned about on my boat but if i follow your lead i should be ok.
What size fasteners did you use?
Jeff
Do you find it still needs that horizontal brace John?
Today was not what I would call a great boat building day. I did manage to get the breast hook and the quarter knees shaped. It took all day. I'm not really happy with how they came out, but with extra epoxy and some good size screws they should end up being fine. I tried cutting the curve on the back side of the breast hook. My bench top bandsaw is not big enough to accurately cut the 1-3/4" mahogany. So I need to find someone with a full size bandsaw to finish cutting them.
I was able to borrow a bandsaw and got the breast hook and quarter knees cut out. The breast hook needed a little repair from the failed attempt at using the small bandsaw. I also cut out the seat risers and pressed them along the chine to see if sitting like that for the week will pre-bend them. I'm going to try installing them this weekend.
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The Long Point Skiff should use bottom RUNNERS rather than 2 layers of 3/4" plywood. The layers of plywood might give you problems. Also 2 layer of 3/4" plywood must be very heavy.
Thomas Hill designed the Long Point Skiff to be 1 1/2'' thick so she wouldn't oil-can in a chop as well as doing away with bottom framing for easy cleaning and upkeep.
"A man builds the best of himself into a boat- builds many of the memories of his ancestors." -Steinbeck
I have a decision to make concerning the seat riser. The 1" thick Mahogany will not bend easy enough without either laminating it or steaming. I have never steamed wood and have none of the equipment to do it. I successfully laminated the rails. Laminating the seat risers would not be as easy as the rails, but I think it would be possible. What is the consensus, laminate the risers, invest into to the equipment to steam, or scrap the mahogany and go with something else?
Hi John. I Have yet to use my steam set-up but will probably be using it for the rails and seat riser. I am using a piece of sewer pipe for the box and an old turkey fryer burner. You can use a stock pot and a big funnel for a steam pot. You probably already know all this. Something satisfying about steaming wood. I helped build a couple of boats when I was on my boat in my 20's. Laminating is a very valid option as you know. I have laminated deck beams in a curved jig with glue and had great results. Seems a bit silly to set up a steam box for steaming two pieces of wood! As you also know Epoxy is stronger than the wood and screws fine anyway. I heard you say in a previous post you are planning on building a catboat; so maybe now is a good time to set it up. Otherwise, If you are not finishing bright I would probably laminate. This is my old boat I rebuilt and lived on for ten years - The "M.V. Hemlock" Built in 1925, had a Gardner 4LW. I still miss her. I recently found these old pictures. Thought you might like to see her.
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Last edited by Popeye53; 07-22-2012 at 10:21 AM.
Popeye53's photos of his old ship's wheel reminded that many Long Point Skiffs have used this type wheel and look good with them. I believe Tom's first build had one. Hamilton Marine carries them - However I've noticed that they seem no longer to offer them in bronze.
http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/brow...-/4,44954.html
Keep up the good work on my favorite power skiff.
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“Only those who have the patience to do simple things perfectly will acquire the skill to do difficult things easily" Johann Von Schiller
Tks. for that link Robert. Nice wheel. - I am thinking very seriously about putting a little keel aft on my Long Point. I just cant help thinking she is going to move around too much with out it. I have slowed down to a halt right now waiting for more epoxy. I was ready to paint but now will wait for the epoxy and put on the skeg.
You can see my build at my thread "Another Long Point".
Tim
I've ordered the bronze 16" wheel from Hamilton Marine but it's on back order. I really don't want to use stainless steel. Keeping my fingers crossed that the bronze wheel ships soon.
Nice pictures of you boat Tim. Must have been fun living on her for 10 years.
Still trying to decide what to do about the seat risers, I'm starting to lean towards laminating them, but still thinking it over.
Glad you liked the pics. Wasn't sure about putting them on your thread. - It was rough in the rainy winters sitting there watching the green fungus grow on the windows and cleaning all the soot from the diesel stove, But I had some great adventures. With regards to the skeg plan - everyone who have seen the plans here that know boats has agreed that this boat needs a skeg. I cant believe no-one else has mentioned it. With that big flat bottom it is bound to wander. Don't you think?
Last edited by Popeye53; 07-20-2012 at 03:17 AM.
I have to look through some of my emails. I'm pretty sure I asked Tom Hill about putting a skeg on the boat and he said it's not needed. It be nice to hear from other builders if they think a skeg should be installed.
John, I am thinking of something like this..
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John,
She is looking good.
Have you worked out the seat riser's yet? It has been my intent to use atlantic white cedar or cypress (rather than mahogany)for all of the parts Tom specified as pine. I wanted to keep the weight close to the pine with out sacrificing too much strength. I only used mahogany for the chines because I had it left over from my stem lumber. Though I do feel a little better getting the strength of the mahogany for the chines. Your earlier success with laminating could make that method a good candidate.
My build is on hold for a week or so until I get transom wood, then ready to plank. Meanwhile I have the luxury of learning all I can from John's and Tim's ongoing projects.
Jeff
This weekend I installed the breast hook and both quarter knees. I added a piece of 1/2” plywood under the breast hook to span the glue joints. The quarter knees liked to move around a lot with the epoxy on them. The breast hook is about 1/8” higher on the starboard side. Hopefully after shaping the crown in it you won’t be able to notice. I wish I had not finished off the aft upper edge of the breast hook. I forgot I needed to shape the crown. I also glued up the 1st layer of the seat risers. Laminating the second layer is going to be messy, but it should end up working out fine.
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It’s been a busy couple of weeks for me, not a lot of time for boatbuilding. I have managed to get the seat risers laminated, the breast hook all shaped, and the seats cut out. Next I have to cut the transom for the outboard and start filling holes and sanding. I need recommendations for paint. I’m afraid the paint will smell too much for me to finish the boat in the basement. So I guess I’ll need to get one of the temporary sheds for painting.
Really nice John. It is going to be a beautiful boat. I have trimmed my sheer and stem and will be ready to work on the frames soon.
I cut the sides of the center console out per the plans. The dash height will end up being 29" high. I'm 6'2" and it seems a little low. Does anyone have any recommendations for the height? I plan on using a traditional 16" bronze wheel (If I can fine one, Hamilton Marine is out of them).
Here is a picture of Tom Hill's:
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Hi John,
I am 6' 2" as well and was wondering the same thing about wheel placement. How tall is Tom?
Tim
Tom is not as tall as us. I cut out new sides and increased the height so the dashboard will be 36" high. Just not sure if the console will look out of place with the increased height. I guess I'll just put it together and see how it looks and feels. I can always cut it shorter if needed.
Hey John,
Bought this on Ebay 17" 36 dollars. Search for Perko bronze boat steering wheel etc. they do show up.
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Do you have a preference for bottom paint, I'm not going to be leaving it in the water, trailer each time. I'm thinking Interlux?
Hey John,
Looks Great! question, are you going to spray, roll or brush on your paint for the hull and inside?
Thanks.....
Mike
I'm planning on using a roller and brush. In Wooden Boat issue 207 Tom Hill describes his process for painting. I haven't settled on a brand yet. I'll be deciding between Interlux or Pettit. I plan on leaving the boat in the water throughout the summer. I need to find out of I can use topside paints below the waterline under bottom paint.
I still haven't finished the center console or finished filling in screw holes. Work and family commitments have taken priority for the last few months. Once November comes around my schedule should allow much more time for boatbuilding.
Depends on the paint type. In general, the one-part paints don't last long underwater.
Knowledge: Tomatoes are fruit.
Wisdom: Tomatoes do not belong in fruit salad.
John,
I have also let life get in the way of boatbuilding lately. We both better get busy. I thought it would be cool to present our long Point Skiffs at the Mystic show next June.
Jeff,
I like the idea of presenting both the boats at the WoodenBoat Show next June. The Show is June 28 - 30th. Lets do it!
Hi John,
Whats new?
Hey Tim,
I'm still here! Finally getting done with the 72 hour work weeks for a while. The shop is all cleaned up and I'm ready to get back to working on the boat. I have placed a deposit on a slip for the spring, so it's time to get busy.
Are you working on anything new? How much time have you had to use your boat?
John
Great John,
It will be nice to see some new pictures. I have lots of snow here so am concentrating on inside jobs. Gillie is tucked away under cover till the spring.
nTim
Started working on the center console. I attached a couple of pictures of the console with a 36" high dashboard. It feels good because of my height, hopefully it doesn't ruin the look of the boat. It is 7" taller then the plans call for.
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Can you move forward past it fairly quickly to handle lines, etc.?
I'm looking on my phone so proportions might be messed up but it looks like a narrow walk through.
Doug
Hi John,
Hmm.. Got me think'n. I like the comfort of stand-up steering, especially at a comfortable height. It is a tad imposing to look at tho, especially from the side, looks ok from the stern I am thinking and very nice to run the boat from. It would be great if the boat was 4' longer and a 16" wider (as per botebum). I figure this is one of those things you just have to try first and see. If you don't like it, yank it out. I still haven't decided what I am going to do finally either, so am keen to see what happens.
God bless,
Tim
Just a thought but if you offset the whole console a couple inches to the right, then put a top on the angle you allready have, you could offset the helm a litte to the left and shorten the console. The wheel would be at the angle of the top and you would still be able to stand and walk through easily. Your rigging tube will prohibit walking on the starboard side of the console anyway. I can send you a pic of what I mean to you private as your thread is to nice to litter with a glass boat.
Last edited by Hunky Dory; 12-29-2012 at 12:01 AM.
I am building a Long Point and haven't gotten to this stage yet, but was planning on making the center console narrower than the plans called for (maybe only as wide as the diameter of the steering wheel) in order to improve fore and aft access. (I am only 5'8", so I don't need to make the console any taller, which may help with the look of a narrower console.)
I think there is some risk that too large a console will affect the look of the boat. I assume that you have mocked up the steering wheel configuration and made the console as low as you can consistent with a good hold on the wheel for your height and length of arms.
The more I look at the pictures I think I'm going to cut the console down to the height called for in the plans. One negative about the higher console is it's harder to see over while sitting down. I imagine a lot of the harbor and river cruising I'll be doing will be done sitting down. I haven't deviated from the plans yet and everything is turning out great, so why start now. I don't have the wheel yet it has been on backorder for months, but I should have it in a week or two.
I have finally glued up the center console. I did decide to add 2" to the height so the dashboard ends up being 31" high. I also plugged the holes in the stem. Next up I'll be filling screw holes and doing some massive sanding. Painting is going to have to wait until it warms up and I build a temporary shelter outside.
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Just wanted to say your boat is really coming along nicely. Really nice workmanship.
PaulT
Great job! I think that console looks very well-proportioned and fits well with the lines of the boat.
She's really looking good, John. I am glad to see you're back to boatbuilding.
This is a view out my basement door!
A lot of snow has to melt before I can start building the temporary shelter I'm going to use for painting the boat. Lets hope for an early spring. I finally got a 16" bronze wheel. Hamilton Marine was able to find an overseas manufacturer.
Today I spent some time sanding. I screwed up and sanded through the first layer of the plywood on one of the planks. Not sure if its worth trying to fix?
Getting closer to painting, finally!
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Last edited by jahlinux; 02-12-2013 at 07:52 PM.
Nice wheel. Very nice.
That oversand is absolutely not worth trying to fix.
Why wouldn't you paint the boat in the basement?
Knowledge: Tomatoes are fruit.
Wisdom: Tomatoes do not belong in fruit salad.