Long Point Skiff Plans Ordered

[jahlinux]

I have ordered the Long Point Skiff plans from Tom Hill.

http://www.thomasjhillboatdesigns.co...ong_point.html

I’m planning to start building the boat this fall. After spending three days at the WoodenBoat Show I just can’t take it anymore. I’m looking for other builders of this boat in the hopes that I can learn from your experiences. I would really be interested in pictures. I’m planning on staying with Tom’s design for the most part, but I would like to figure out a way to get a dodger/cover on the boat. I really like the one Dick Pulsifer puts on his Pulsifer Hamptons. I know there are some older threads out there on this design, but I’m hoping to start a fresh one.

[doyle007]

I'm excited for you. I really like that boat, and would think that it would be perfect for flyfishing and plugging the sod banks here behind southern NJ.

Please start a thread once you do start your project, and post lots of details and photos.

Good luck.

[jahlinux]

My family is from the Ocean City area of Jersey so I know the area down in that part of the State. The Long Point Skiff would be a great boat for that area. Then again I think the boat is great for any area.

[holzbt]

You can put a deck on it similar to this if you want to install a dodger.

[jahlinux]

You can put a deck on it similar to this if you want to install a dodger.

Thanks for the pictures. I was figuring I would need to expand the deck. I want to try and keep it as close to the original plans as I can.

[jahlinux]

You can put a deck on it similar to this if you want to install a dodger.

I'm starting to have second thoughts about the Long Point Skiff. I really love the lines of the boat. I've watched Tom Hill's boat building video. Now I'm thinking I may want a design that doesn't require the added expense and time of building a jig. The only problem is I have not found any designs that are as good looking as the Long Point. I love the high sides and vertical stem. Can anyone who has built the Long Point give me a feel for how much time and money they spent building the jig?

[jahlinux]

Plans arrived! Unfortunately I'm working all weekend so won't get a lot of time to study them. The next step is to clean out the area of the basement where I'm building the hull. (It's a walk out with double doors, the finished boat will fit out, if you're wondering.)

Does anybody have any advise for basement building? I'm figuring I'll do must of the cutting outside, wait to sand and paint the hull in the spring when it will be warmer and I can move the skiff into the garage.

[SMARTINSEN]

Does anybody have any advise for basement building?

Plenty of good light.


I do not know the particulars of this boat, but a building jig is usually made from framing lumber. 2x4 or 2x6, and maybe some 1/2"cdx gussets. Fairly inexpensive in the big picture.

[jahlinux]

Plenty of good light.

I do not know the particulars of this boat, but a building jig is usually made from framing lumber. 2x4 or 2x6, and maybe some 1/2"cdx gussets. Fairly inexpensive in the big picture.

The plans call for using 8 sheets of 1/2" AC Plywood for the jig.

[BrianW]

Looking forward to the build thread.

I like the looks of these boats!

[hightop]

I don't see why you'd need ac for the jig, I've used 1/2" OSB ply for several builds molds, it's under $7.00 a 4x8' sheet, & much faster to cut to shape than nailing or screwing together pieces of framing type lumber.. As far as time building a jig, it's really not much % overall of the total build time of a boat. The only boats that I know of that don't require some form of a jig would be the Payson-Bolger Instant boats.

[jahlinux]

I have been meaning to post some pictures and notes on the progress I'm making on my boat. I ordered the plans in July and construction on the jig started October 7, 2011. After studying the plans, reading Tom Hill's book and watching his DVD everything seemed to go well.

[jahlinux]

I did end up taking 3/4" off the sides of each station mold instead of notching for the chine and ribbands. It helped with alignment prior to screwing them into the molds. I also attached strips of wood behind the ribband locations to allow for clamping them to the mold prior to screwing.

[Spudley51]

Hi John,

How did you did you get your lines for the sheer ribband, I see that the other ribbands are 7" and 12" off of it. Did you just go off of the Stem and Stern?

Thanks
Mike

[jahlinux]

Hi John,

How did you did you get your lines for the sheer ribband, I see that the other ribbands are 7" and 12" off of it. Did you just go off of the Stem and Stern?

Thanks
Mike

Mike,
Sent you an email, didn't see your post here. Hopefully I explained it well enough for you to understand. Let me know if you still have questions.

[Jeff Myers 66]

John,
Your Long Point looks great! Did you have any issue with maintaining the shear line after trimming the frames for the ribband thickness rather than notching the frames?

Jeff

[jahlinux]

John,
Your Long Point looks great! Did you have any issue with maintaining the shear line after trimming the frames for the ribband thickness rather than notching the frames?

Jeff

Jeff,
I didn't have any issues with trimming the frames back. I don't feel notching is necessary. I thought not having to notch the frames helped in aligning the ribbands and gave the epoxy less jig to glue to.

[jahlinux]

Scarfed the first two sheets of plywood on December 14, 2011. I'm using 1/2" okoume for the sides and 3/4" meranti for the bottom and transom.

[Popeye53]

Did you do that scarf with a block plane?

[andrewpatrol]

Yep wrap it in towels ( on the most curved part ) and pour heaps of boiling water on it. Obviously do it off the boat outside and leave it for a while to cook then more water, than quickly put it on the boat, starting at the stem so you got some leverage to bend it. Failing that I saw somewhere that someone made up a steamer with PVC plumbing pipe and a kettle with a hose. You'd only need to steam the most curvaecous bit. Leave it on the hull for a few days to dry and form to its new shape.

[jahlinux]

Did you do that scarf with a block plane?

I used a power hand planer to do most of the cutting, then a belt sander, then a hand made sander using a sanding belt from a belt sander glued to a pine board. I had originally made it for carving half hull models, but it has come in real handy. I have used it on the transom, bow, and chines. It takes off a lot of wood, but more controlled then using a belt sander.

[jahlinux]

Laminated the transom and officially completed the jig on December 19, 2011.

[jahlinux]

My first big problem came when I was installing the chines. They are 2" x 3/4" mahogany. I had a hard time twisting the chine so it met up correctly with the stem. It's not a professional job by any stretch, but then again I have very little experience with boat building so I knew I would be running into these types of problems. Looking back on it I think I should have tried rapping the wood in rags and pouring boiling water on the rags and let it soak for a while. I think I spent the better part of two days messing with the chines.



I did have to shave a little wood off the tops of the chines and the plywood will not lay completely against the chine, but a little thickened epoxy should be able to fill any voids. Hopefully this does not cause any problems.

[jahlinux]

Shaped the stem and mounted the transom on December 28, 2011. I did end up breaking a rib band by hitting it with a plane. The ribbands are only 3/4" pine, but I was able to glue it up with some epoxy and it should be fine.

[jahlinux]

The stem is made from two pieces of Mahogany laminated together.

[jahlinux]

January 4, 2012, Shaped one side of the transom and started making patterns for the side planks. This is were I'll start needing some help. I first tried laying the 16' piece of 1/2" plywood up against the mold to see if I would be able to use it as Tom Hill describes in his book. No luck, it will not bend well enough around the bow section to make accurate markings. I tried using the 4x8 cardboard sheets that came with the plywood I ordered from Maine Coast Lumber. (I would highly recommend them. They are out of York Maine.) This seems to work well. If anyone has suggestions I would really appreciate hearing from you.

[wavewalker]

Thank you for the detailed building pics. I've had the plans for a few months, but between this thread and the other Long Point thread, has gotten me to want to get started; if the weather would cooperate. I grew up on Cape Cod (Buttermilk Bay actually) but haven't been back since 1964, I used to love hanging around with my dad who worked at a marina there a few years after he retired from the Air Force, seeing the old boats, and sometimes going out with him on test runs, out into the Cape Cod Ship Canal.
WW

[Hunky Dory]

Buttermilk bay in the early sixtys I remember the square bow quohog skiffs at the boat ramp by rt.6

[wavewalker]

Me too, my dad worked at the what was called Buttermilk Bay Marina next to the overpass on rt6; the waterway to get out of Buttermilk Bay to the ship canal; late 50's early 60's... Sometimes had to take taller boats in at low tide.

[jahlinux]

I have the first planks cut out and ready to attach. The 1/2” plywood does not like to bend around the bow and meet up flush with the stem. I would appreciate any suggestions on the best way to get the plywood attached to the stem. I’m assuming when I start screwing the plywood to the stem it should bend flush.

[potomac]

Any luck with the planks? I am very much enamored of this design and am following your build with great interest. Good luck.

[jahlinux]

After dry fitting the planks over and over again I finally just decided to go for it and install them. I did everything by myself so it was not that easy. The hardest part was the bow. The first plank was not that bad. I used a wood clamp to pull the plywood flush with the stem then screwed it. I moved the clamp down some and put in another screw. This worked great. The secound plank was a real pain. I really needed some extra help, I was able to use one of the Irwin quick grip clamps to pull in the plywood to the stem with one hand and the other hand to drill and then screw the plywood to the stem. It was not a pretty process but it worked. Now I have to hang some plastic sheeting up and close off the rest of the basement and the furnace so I can trim the planks with a router. I plan on using a flush trim router bit and I'm sure its going to make a mess. Then comes beveling the planks and cutting the gains. I have never cut gains before so hopefully it goes well.

[dirtsailor]

I would use a japanese pull saw to trim the planks, less mess, and it doesn't take long at all. Then you wont have to mess with tarping off the basement!

[jahlinux]

I trimmed the planks with a router, it really didn't make that big of a mess. The planks are beveled, next I'll work on the gains. I'm thinking the gains should be about 12" long for the 1/2 plywood. Is that the correct length?

[Breakaway]

Nice thread. Nice build. Yer gettin er done!

Kevin

[PaulT]

Looks pretty damn nice from where I'm sittin'! Very neat work.

Thanks for the thread
PaulT

[jahlinux]

Cut my first ever Gain. Not the best, but hopefully a little epoxy can fill in the mistakes. Didn't notice until after that the cut went higher then the 3/4" it should have. So when I glue the next plank on there will be some space that will need to be filled in. Oh well, maybe with a little experience I'll get better at it.

[Hunky Dory]

If you clamp a piece of scap to the plank the width off the gain you can guide your saw and also the plane.

[wavewalker]

Any more progress? I was really getting into this as I have the plans, just waiting for the tax return to get the rest of the material.

[jahlinux]

I have the second plank on, the chine shaped and the first layer of the bottom ready to be cut out. I have scarfed an additional piece onto the 3rd plank. I’ll post more pictures tonight or tomorrow.

[jahlinux]

I have the chine shaped and getting ready to work on the bottom while the 2nd scarfs on the third planks are drying.







One thing I am trying to figure out is how to laminate the bottom. It consists of two layers of 3/4” plywood. I have #14 2 1/2” bronze screws to use for going through both layers of plywood into the chine. Not sure how to hold down the first layer while the epoxy dries. The only thing I can think of is using drywall screws. My only concern is putting so many screw holes in the chine. Does anyone think its anything to worry about? Any other ideas?

[andrewpatrol]

I'd be just gluing the joins and watch the drywall screws, give them a turn loose and tighten again after about ten hours otherwise the heads may snap off. I built a whole Hartley TS16 with about ten screws and none of them were in the chines. Glue first sheet of 3/4 on then second layer over that once first is dry. Use a toothed tiling spatula to lay a thickened epoxy mixture between sheets.

[Figment]

I'd be just gluing the joins and watch the drywall screws, give them a turn loose and tighten again after about ten hours otherwise the heads may snap off. I built a whole Hartley TS16 with about ten screws and none of them were in the chines. Glue first sheet of 3/4 on then second layer over that once first is dry. Use a toothed tiling spatula to lay a thickened epoxy mixture between sheets.

If you have a powerful soldering iron (the kind that looks like a gun, not the kind that looks like a pen) you can put enough heat on the head of the screw to soften the epoxy at the threads before you try to back the screw out.
Also, use decking screws not drywall screws.

[jahlinux]

Here are some pictures of the 2nd planks going on.

[Duane Brown]

looking real nice. I know alot of people are watching your build. It''s a great looking boat.

[davebrown]

With two layers of 3/4 I don't think you'll have much of the usual complaint of pounding in a chop. I think Hill has a good eye. I wonder why he is not on the forum? Maybe he gets enough of boatbuilding...Well, it's a good looking skiff, and I think they are much underrated.

[jahlinux]

I have installed the 3rd plank, cut out the first layer of the bottom and picked up the wood for the rails and seat risers. Up next I will glue down the first layer of the bottom.

[jahlinux]

I pulled a rookie maneuver on the last screw in the side of the boat and missed the transom! Should have measured and marked the plank so I screwed into the transom correctly. This project keeps reminding me its a big learning experience.

[jahlinux]

Anyone have some good ideas on how I’m going to trim 1 1/2” of plywood flush with the sides of the boat without damaging the side planks?

[Philip Maynard]

Rough it with a power planer and then carefully with a jack plane, running the plane body nose up and also set the blade deeper on the top edge.