Smith Island Crabbing Scrape

[wollybugger]

The keel was laid! http://scrapeboatstella-r.blogspot.c...ying-keel.html

[wollybugger]

I broke down and got a photobucket site so I c an post misc pictures here and keep the build record on the blog ... but thought the forum moght like to see the leaf blower rig ... half for chuckles. But my Craftsman shop vac didn't have the oomph ... so I rigged up the leaf blower. It works well and there's no filter to clog.

[wollybugger]

I added another 1-1/2" of height to the transom, as I am paranoid and want to make up for the weight of white oak scantlings vs yellow pine scantlings. So I had a little help from Red (rescued redbone coonhound) ... he is actually a pretty good shop buddy and only bolts when the planer is running.

[wollybugger]

So ... they tell me ... that when we're done building our boats ... that fame and the maidens become abundant.

Must be true, as the scrape "Volunteer" proves ...



Actual model photo shoot at CBMM linked up at CBMM's Facebook site

[SMARTINSEN]

Awesome. I am going to try to get to the CBMM tomorrow, to check up on the progress on Rosie Parks. And I will definitely check out Volunteer. Maybe ask a couple of questions of Rich Schofield if I can cross paths. The green paint in that boat is just about the same as the original interior color in mine after scraping thought a few layers of white and gray.

I am just now noticing that you are in Solomons. I would have tried to hook up with you if I only had known last weekend; next time, though, for sure.

[wollybugger]

I got the starboard chine on today, which was exciting as the boat finally is gaining it's shape. http://scrapeboatstella-r.blogspot.com/

I'll only admit my mistakes here, but I had to remove the stern battan (stern frame that attaches the keel to the stern). These pieces are shown above the grey bucket in the following photo.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-u6nDicPh2W...ms_picture.jpg

Reason it was removed is I assumed the chine came off the stern square, which it obviously doesn't. But this where my life-experience building things like house additions clash with building a boat. My brain has been trained in an orthoginal world, and now this boat thing, where little is orthoginal.

It was a little setback, a good lesson, and I hope I am smart enough not to do it again (yeah right)

[wollybugger]

A request for a little help in the clamping info dept:

I need to pull in the chine to the stem. As it sits at rest, it needs to move in about 1.5 ft and twist about 10-15 degrees.

Is there a trick-of-the-trade, or just backyard engineer a clamping scheme?

Figured I'd ask before struggling

[Peerie Maa]

A Spanish windlass to pull them in. Clamp some timber to each one so that a Spanish windlass on their ends can twist them.

[wollybugger]

A Spanish windlass to pull them in. Clamp some timber to each one so that a Spanish windlass on their ends can twist them.

Thanks Nick ... I'll give it a go ... probably next weekend should have some pictures

[Draketail]

Have a look at my Draketail thread. http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...ing-amp-onward Starting at post #8 shows the use of sacrificial blocks glued on to provide purchase for clamps. Newspaper glued between the plank and the block makes it easy to remove the blocks later. Use the Spanish windlass or ratchet straps to get close. Then use bar clamps.

[wollybugger]

I got the chines attached, I kind of used a hybrid approach to Nick's and Grigg's method ... after breaking a strap

http://scrapeboatstella-r.blogspot.com/

I find that when something breaks, that's a key indicator that you're doing something wrong

[wollybugger]

OK Folks, I have another question I need some help on:

I am ready to put the garboard plank over the chine. I got Dolphinite (out of Jamestown Dist). It didn't come with any instructions and I can't find any application notes.

Also, I will start at the stern and work my way forward, but bending that plank will exert a large pressure on the chine. I know it sounds dumb, but won't it squirt out?

[Draketail]

Yep. the dolphinite does squirt out. That's fine. You don't need any more thickness than is necessary to exclude water. I put Dolphinite on the mating surfaces on using a small knotched putty knife. I filed the knotches with a triangular file.

As the plank gets screwed down, the dolphinite squeezes out leaving just enough to exclude water from any places where the planks are not fully in contact. If it's not contaminated with sawdust, etc, scrape up the squeeze out and use it on the next plank. The only purpose of the Dolphinite is to exclude water. Extra thickness of goop would just let the planks move too much and loosen the screws.

[wollybugger]

I'm not the only odd-ball in my neighborhood

[wollybugger]

Sorry for the lack of updates ... but we got the first plank installed and there was a lot of boring prep work.

http://scrapeboatstella-r.blogspot.com/

Also, I ran across another blog while seeing if there was any info on Piney Pt, MD ... one of the last areas that has folks that actually builds wooden boats, professionally.

http://justbeforeitsgone.blogspot.com/

Very ... very good blog. And it does has some focus on Francis Goddard, a salty old guy, with a great sense of humor.

[wollybugger]

The chine bevels are done.

http://scrapeboatstella-r.blogspot.c...ng-rabbet.html

When building this thing, you are constantly putting your mind back to how the guys did it back in the early 1900s. And I just can't imagine how they built boats in Maryland without DEET.

The mosquitos are pretty bad here, but a couple if times a year we'll take the Carolina Skiff over to Barren Island, MD to perch fish. Barren Island is an unihabitated, low, swampy island on the eastern shore. And every trip we'll get off the boat to explore. The combination of attacks from green flies, deer flies, and mosquitos are absolutley viscious. I really couldn't imagine trying to build a boat in those conditions.

We take for granted that our builds are simpler with circular saws and power planes, but DEET is the best tool in the toolbox.

.

[wollybugger]

I finished up the keel rabbet

http://scrapeboatstella-r.blogspot.c...ng-rabbet.html

And got a good start on the bottom planking

http://scrapeboatstella-r.blogspot.c...ransition.html

And a nice picture of the "Volunteer" on the railway

http://chesapeakeboats.blogspot.com/...rd-update.html




.

[Draketail]

Keep up the good work! Looks like you're getting the hang of it.

[wollybugger]

Making some more progress, and I thought it might be a nice treat to look at both boats. The "Darlene" is on the left and was built by Mr. Leon Marsh of Smith Island, MD. The boat on the right is my attempt (double underline attempt) to recreate his boat.

[wollybugger]

Well I got the planks very near where I will start transitioning to the forefoot stavings (http://scrapeboatstella-r.blogspot.com/).

I am about 70% confident that I have the knowledge to do this forefoot right, so I am going to take some time out and study it a bit, head down the Calvert Marine Museum. The CBMMs Volunteer was done with planking fore/aft, so that is ceratinly an option as well as Mr. Marsh's use of 3"x3" stavings.

Also of a sadder note: For those of you that haven't heard, the Deltaville Marine Museum had caught fire and extensive damage ensued. So maybe send out some prayers for those good folks dealing with this tough break. If anyone is interested in sending donations to help those strong people rebuild, info can be found at http://www.deltavillemuseum.com/. My check is in the mail today.

[wollybugger]

Sorry I haven't posted in a while, I am in that region of bottom planking that gets a little challenging. I was forced to start steaming ... and my process is out at:

http://scrapeboatstella-r.blogspot.c...om-planks.html

I have roughly 3 ft to go, then I will probably be going to fore/aft planking the remaioning 6 ft (to the stem)

[wollybugger]

I have finally got all the forward planks cut-to-fit, and I have started their permanent install. The planks basically sit on a strand of marline and a bed of (Vulkem 116) sealant. Pictures at:

http://scrapeboatstella-r.blogspot.c...ransition.html

[donald branscom]

I finished up the keel rabbet

http://scrapeboatstella-r.blogspot.c...ng-rabbet.html

And got a good start on the bottom planking

http://scrapeboatstella-r.blogspot.c...ransition.html

And a nice picture of the "Volunteer" on the railway

http://chesapeakeboats.blogspot.com/...rd-update.html




.

Finally a few photos!!!! Thanks Hardly any photos on this thread.

[wollybugger]

Hey Donald ... Sorry for the photo frustration, but all the new photos are in the supplied link.

For example I posted recently about steamong some planks, and gave the following link:
http://scrapeboatstella-r.blogspot.c...om-planks.html

So that link will take you to the steamer photos.

I hate to sound selfish, but I shamelessly am. As, it's really easy for me to get photos to the blog (supplied link). I basically snap a shot with my cell phone and hit "send to blog" and the photos are there waiting for me. I don't even have to turn on the computer!

And hopefully, the blog is easy enough to surf, that you can see other things related to the build as well ....

Thanks for noticing ...

Robb

[wollybugger]

I started the fore foot bottom planking today ... or at least trying to figure out how it's going to be done. But I twisted a plank 60-deg to do this ... quite frankly I couldn't believe that was physically possible.

http://scrapeboatstella-r.blogspot.c...ng-at-bow.html

[Draketail]

Looks to me like you're getting things sorted out. Keep up the good work!

[wollybugger]

Grigg ... thanks for the encouragement. I was going to send you an e-mail on it but it was getting late ...

Yeah, I would have put 50:1 Vegas odds that the plank would have cracked/snapped. The wood was sitting at ambient EMC for several months (maybe 9%?), so there "greeness" has left it.

But yeah, it twisted so nice and smooth, I probably could have taken it past 90-deg no problem.

It was a big milestone, because I essentially have all the cross-planking done, but didn't have a real solid plan for the front ... big relief!

Hats off to you and CBMMs Rich Scofield for educating an airplane guy ... no easy task ... thanks again!

Robb

[davebrown]

Did I recall seeing that Erster cut a forefoot with some big thick solid chunks and an angle grinder? I am interested because if I build the BEssie Lee I will have to come up with some kind of a hybrid method for the forefoot, since I will do most of the hull in ply.

[Draketail]

davebrown,

Check the thread on the 25' draketail build. What you describe is how the forefoot on that boat is built. Plenty of pictures in the thread.

[wollybugger]

Hey davebrown,

I recall seeing info in Sucher's book on plywoord layering for the forfoot area. I will check on that tonight as it has me curious too. (http://www.amazon.com/Simplified-Boa...0733478&sr=8-1 )

Draketail does a great job describing the solid wood approach.

And if you are interested in staving, send me a PM and I will e-mail some info to you ...

Robb

[wollybugger]

For you skipjack lovers: The "Dee of St Marys" arrived at the Calvert Marine Museum a week or so back. The Chesapeake Field Lab is partnering (of sorts) with the museum. Quite a few kids out this way have been on her learning about life on the Bay. She is 56' long with a nice 20' beam.

Not bad from a cell phone camera:

[wollybugger]

I can't seem to make the photos smaller ... but the cross planking is done and off to parallel planking ...

Details at the blog page: http://scrapeboatstella-r.blogspot.c...ransition.html

[orbb]

Looking great.

[wollybugger]

Hopefully I will get the Photobucket thing down and build detail out at http://scrapeboatstella-r.blogspot.c...ng-at-bow.html

But I went to fore/aft planking vice stavings up at the forefoot becuase I didn't know if I had the old timer experience to do about 30 pieces of stavings. Well, the structure that holds the fore/aft planking is called by Sucher as a futtuck (yes ... quit giggling). It is escentially a staving that is used a structure. The first one took 4 hours to make, the second 45 minutes

[Peerie Maa]

Nothin wrong with the word futtock. It's just a contraction of "foot hook", the hooked timber between the floor and the top timbers. It's just that yours is straight.

[wollybugger]

Nice Nick! I tried looking in my ref books and did google searches ... Nothing really to piece the word together.

I'll tell ya, I had more fun making this piece than anything else on the boat to date. So I am kind of bummed, because I was intimadated by the staving, but had to make one to go to an alternate approach, and found the construction fun.

Oh well ...

[wollybugger]

I have to get off the computer and prepare for hurricane Sandy (ie I'm out of beer).

I put a summary of the cross-planking out at the blog:

http://scrapeboatstella-r.blogspot.c...ransition.html

Also, had a little help cleaning up the "punch list"

[davebrown]

It looks like you are using treated lumber (sorry if I have missed this on an earlier post). Do you see any issues with paint on treated lumber? I may use it on my Sinepuxent build.

[wollybugger]

Hey Dave,

It is not pressure treated.

The dark green you see is copper naphthenate, which is consistent with what the original builder used. It is like a stain, and only goes in a slight depth. For that reason, the builders out on Smith Island sprayed their boats down with a garden sprayer on an annual basis ... and some their boats are still alive at 50+ years. Although I would assume those old boats started with Cuprinol and or pine oil?

Scotty Boy at 70 years old. http://500px.com/photo/14152083

It is advertised as paintable and stainable. It smells very bad after the application, so it would not be a good choice for a garage build. The smell typically dissipates after a couple days.

Maybe an option for you, but I think there is a lot of good PT comments on the forum as well ...

Robb

[wollybugger]

Happy Veterans Day! Thanks to all that served and to those who gave us the ultimate gift of freedom.

Waiting for the day to warm up so I can cut the bearding line (another milestone). Build details at http://scrapeboatstella-r.blogspot.com/

[wollybugger]

I used the nice weather to finish up the chine rabbets ... they took a looooong time ... and there was probably an easier way ... but now I know where Popeye got his forearms

http://scrapeboatstella-r.blogspot.c...ng-at-bow.html

[Peerie Maa]

This is a confusing diagram

The bearding line is the upper line, where the staving leaves the sides of the keel. The next line down is the back rebate, which forms the corner between the inside of the plank and the ends of the plank. The lowest line is the rebate, where the outer surface of the plank and keel touch.

[wollybugger]

Thanks for the terminolgy education Nick ... and I will clean up the blog. So, is the rabbet in the forefoot area still called a rabbet? Is it a rebate? Or are the components of the rabbet the rebate (sorry to sound dumb).

And what would be the proper terminology of the bottom, futtock to stem? I call it the forefoot, but I think that's incorrect.


And some of my observations on forefoot rabbet, which may clear some confusion:
The drawing indicates an "fading" of the rabbet (located below the short right arrow labeling the Bearding Line). When I cut it, there was no fading, it just stepped from the keel rabbet to forefoot rabbet.

Even though I am going fore/aft with the planking, even with stavings, I don't think that fading would be present ...

[Peerie Maa]

Thanks for the terminolgy education Nick ... and I will clean up the blog. So, is the rabbet in the forefoot area still called a rabbet? Is it a rebate? Or are the components of the rabbet the rebate (sorry to sound dumb).

And what would be the proper terminology of the bottom, futtock to stem? I call it the forefoot, but I think that's incorrect.

The whole thing into which the planks/staves are housed is called a rebate, which is oftern pronounced and spelled rabbet. If it were straight as in a house or cabinet you would use a rebate plane to cut it. When you are lofting you will lay down three lines. The line where the outer surface of the plank meets the stem/keel/sternpost is the rabbet line. The line in the hollow corner of the rebate is the back rabbet. Then the line where the plank or stave leaves the siding of the deadwoods is the bearding line. On the profile drawing the three lines are visible with the rebate being the lowest, then the back rabbet, then the bearding line being the highest.
Yes the forefoot is that part of the cl structure at the front, just as the stern has a heel of the sternpost.

[waltwood]

This is looking great! Will the planking above the chine be pine and what width?
Walt

[wollybugger]

Hey thanks Walt ... the sides will will be Douglas Fir 1x8". It's a tad expensive but it's really nice.

It was a good weekend. I got the port keel rabbet cut/smoothed and about 90% on the stbd.

Cutting those things are a ton of work ... wacked my chisel-holding hand about 50 times ...

[wollybugger]

Got a chance to update the blog on the keel rabbet completion. Thanks again Nick for the clarification on the terminolgy.

http://scrapeboatstella-r.blogspot.c...ng-at-bow.html

[Draketail]

Looking good, Rob! Remove everything that doesn't look like a boat......

[wollybugger]

The mid-frame futtocks were completed yesterday. Both scuppers will be lined with thin-tube stainless or copper pipe as I don't want that moisture just hanging out there.

http://scrapeboatstella-r.blogspot.c...ng-at-bow.html

[wollybugger]

Here goes nothing!!!