14' maine coast peapod

[siberianswampdonkey]

Anyone here built or seen one built before? Considering building one for sailing around on a lake.

[Venchka]

The last time you asked this question, I suggested that you get John Gardner's books containing peapod plans. Were you able to find the books in the library or through inter-library loan?

What construction method are you planning? Carvel or clinker?

Since you raised this topic before I carefully read my copies of Mr. Gardner's books. He doesn't provide enough information to build a sailing version of any of the peapods listed. There is one photograph of a sailing peapod built by The Apprenticeshop in Rockland, ME. No details of that boat are published in the book.

Perhaps peapods were meant for rowing and only occasionally sailed off the wind.

[rbgarr]

Your earlier post is here: http://media5.hypernet.com/ubb/ultim...c;f=2;t=002558

Are you referring to a particular design, say Joel White's 14' Maine Coast Peapod? I'm confused. E-mail me... I'll send my phone #... and you can call me so we could hash out what you're thinking. [img]smile.gif[/img]

[ 05-14-2003, 01:35 PM: Message edited by: rbgarr ]

[siberianswampdonkey]

Yes that's what I was reffering to the Joel White design in 40 wooden boats.

[rbgarr]

Try contacting the designer at Steve White's Brooklin Boatyard in Brooklin, Maine. I can't remember his name right now ("Anyone... anyone?"), but he might be able to advise you whether the White design or Doug Hylan's Beach Pea (for example) would be best for your on-the-water purposes and building skills.

[Venchka]

OK, I get it now. A modern design modeled after a traditional Maine Peapod.

[Stu Fyfe]

If you do a search here on Beach Pea, you'll find a few threads that dealt with the building of this Doug Hylan design.

[Bill Perkins]

Vencha like you I've been rereading some of my good old books . Last night it was Walt Simmons' Lapstrake Boat building Vol. 2. His essay on Flopping Garboards is relevant to those building from plans of old flat floored work boats , so I thought I'd mention it here(even tho that's not the purpose of the thread ?).

If you look closely at the midships section of the pods Chapple has documented ( I at least need a magnifying glass ) some , tho not all , show the Garboard unsupported by any rabbet between frames . It just butts to the keel .

Apparently this was perfectly acceptable in heavily built low cost working craft that lived in the water ,but Mr. Simmons ,who has built one of the Chapple pods and the Mellonseed( with plank not plywood ) had reservations about using the detail in his lighter built more refined boats , especially as they may live on a trailer .So ,he added a light keelson to these designs to give the garboard full length backup with enough meat for the builder to fasten too .I thought his recommendation was interesting .The Sneakbox Chapple documented has floppies too I found when I looked . I may build her some day .

[Bruce Taylor]

I can't remember his name right now

Robert Stephens.

[rbgarr]

Bill-
Carvel planked boats can more easily have an unbacked garboard edge at the keel because the caulked seam and fastening there will be no different than any other seam. The same design built lapstrake would probably have thinner planking, making the seam at the keel more problematic to caulk. Another advantage of the butted plank-to-keel joint is that it's less of a dirt trap and easier to sand and paint. But, as you say, whether the boat will be kept in the water (swelled up) is also important to keep in mind.

[John Gearing]

Thad Danielson builds a beautiful sailing peapod, without using a centerboard! His is modeled after the Washington County pod in Chappy's book on American Small Sailing Craft. I have seen this boat in person a couple of times and it is sweet. Thad posts here once in a while, but you might want to email him off-forum and ask him your peapod questions.

[Bill Perkins]

I see what you mean Rbgar.Now Mr. Simmons writes that an unbacked garboard ( or maybe its' caulked joint ) is more likely to be damaged when beaching ( or being pulled up on a trailer I was thinking ) . I really don't know , but that seam may be more likely to get hit by something than the others .He also mentions that an unbacked seam can be seen working open and closed in rough water.Maybe this is because the somewhat limber plank abuts the rigid keel instead of a similar plank ? Maybe a wide plank keel expands and contracts with changes of moisture more than the planking ?It is a special case in that sense ,not like the other seams .Again I don't know , I haven't had a chance to sail on such a boat , but the man is a very experienced builder

[ 05-16-2003, 03:14 PM: Message edited by: Bill Perkins ]

[Garrett Lowell]

Billy Bones built a peapod, as well, IIRC.

[rbgarr]

Built well, a small boat like a melonseed shouldn't be at all limber, especially with a deck. On the other hand the planking thickness for a boat that small might be thin enough that caulking any seams would be a problem, so there would be a real benefit to having a keelson for fastening to (for potential beaching protection like you mention) and/or lapstrake planking.

IMO, the idea that wood boats of any size should be limber or flex is a misplaced notion. Boats that flex will strain and loosen their fastenings, joints and caulking. This even applies to boats built to Scandinavian methods (one of which I've helped build). As boats get older they will flex, twist, etc., but that doesn't necessarily mean it's a desirable or good thing.

[ 05-14-2003, 11:21 PM: Message edited by: rbgarr ]

[johnwill]

Construction of Doug Hylan's 13' Beach Pea was covered in a three part series in WoodenBoat magazine in the fall of 1997, if my memory serves. It is glued lapstrake plywood. I built mine in early '97 and it is still in perfect condition - rigid and leak-free.
Siberianswampdonkey, I just noticed you are in Dallas. I'm on Eagle Mountain Lake in Fort Worth. Come by some time if you want to see the boat.
Email me and I'll give you directions.

[ 05-14-2003, 11:35 PM: Message edited by: johnwill ]

[JFH]

I build a similar product with a little less rocker. She can be seen at www.innerbayboats.com
My next step is to try to concoct a kit of sorts for others to enjoy building like I do.
Glued lapstrake is the way to go and if the guy who used to build these could use this method....I'm sure he wood...

[siberianswampdonkey]

Ok I've decided to build joel whites design maine coast peapod. I'm going to order the plans and get started soon. Any suggestions on what color to paint it? Also I'm a somewhat new builder and I was wondering if since it's a traditional style boat and it will leak if kept on a trailer if I could just fiberglass the bottom? thanks ~siberianswampdonkey

[JFH]

Fiberglassing will sentence the boat to an early grave if it is done over solid planking with ribs on the inside. The only way to prevent water from sitting inside would be to use some kind of epoxy sealer on the inside to "encapsulate the boat and prevent it from absorbing water. Then the outside can be fiberglassed. This creates a boat that behaves like a fiberglass boat but does not look like one. I think marine ply glued at the joints would be even better if you are going to trailer the boat. That's my 2 cents worth.

God Luck

[siberianswampdonkey]

I'm not worried about water sitting inside the boat I can easily cover it with something I'm talking about when I actually go to put it in the water won't it leak since the seams aren't swollen up yet? I just wanted to slop some epoxy either on the hull or even inside so it doesn't leak. Or would that not really be that much of a problem? sorry but I've never actually been in a traditional wooden boat before just the ooey gooey kind. thanks

[Venchka]

Originally posted by siberianswampdonkey:
...I'm talking about when I actually go to put it in the water won't it leak since the seams aren't swollen up yet?... I just wanted to slop some epoxy either on the hull or even inside so it doesn't leak thanks

As for the small leaks while the boat "takes up", that's what bailers and pumps are for. Launch in a protected area near shore and wait for the boat to take up.

When you have the plans in hand and know exactly the method of construction you can formulate a finish schedule.

You have a long time and much to do before you have to decide on a finish.

For what it's worth, if the construction method is glued-lap plywood, CPES first followed by Kirby's marine enamel is a combination that works and looks traditional.

If the construction method is traditional clinker, and you build it well, leaking won't be a big problem. You can always spray a little water inside to get the boat to "take up" if it's been on the trailer for any length of time. That's what Pete Culler said in one of his books although he was referring to boats that had sat out a winter on the hard. Just make sure the drain plug is out. Too much water can make the boat too heavy and cause a catastrophy.

[siberianswampdonkey]

Thanks Venchka. The designe I'm talking about is traditional carvel planked. The idea with the hose is a good one I think thanks.

[Venchka]

You are welcome, but the idea isn't original. I gather folks in New England have been doing it for years.

Carvel construction on a trailer shouldn't be a problem. Just use the boat a lot and it should stay tight.

Unless someone has experience to the contrary, I stand by my original suggestion of Smith's Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer and Kirby's paint inside and out. Except where you wish to have a bright finish.