Wooden rope stropped blocks

[Sailor]

I'm looking for a pattern or some drawings of the shell for some rope stropped blocks. I have looked around and found a few drawings for the regular squareish ones but I would like some of those gorgeous egg shaped ones. Has anybody seen them, have them or know where I might find a sketch or instructions for the egg shaped blocks? Single and double sheave design, maybe a triple. I'm just looking at them as a fun to do project with no boat to use them on as of now. Maybe a handy billy as mentioned in HG Smith's Marlinspike Sailor. Thanks
Daniel

[RodB]

The following are from the builder building "Susan". He makes his own blocks and the size is based on the line size to be put through them.... I believe the basic drawings and sketches are in some of the rigging books... but mostly he used the parameters from "The Marlinspike Sailor".... which shows the shape, etc. The sheaves are simple delrin and the pins are stainless.

bobalbers@purelyonline.com







The thread...

http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...yes+and+blocks

Another good thread on blocks...

http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...yes-and-blocks...





Other links on the WBF...

http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...ghlight=blocks

http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/02/...odenblocks.htm

RB

[H/V Vega]

Lovely blocks mate! Nice work. If these are not what you are looking for then have a look here and if you like what we use I think Meggi still has all the original drawings we used to make them. Will be more than glade to share them with you.

[Peerie Maa]

Providing you keep to the same dimensions for the swallow where the sheave and rope work, thickness for the cheeks to support the sheave pin, and for the grooves for the strops, then you can carve away as much of the rest as you want.

[Sailor]

I think this is what I'm looking for. I'd like to make a few different blocks though so egg shaped as well as the ones in H/V Vega's post are along the lines of what I'll most likely end up making. I just want the practice on this project. Once I have a boat that needs them I'll be able to do anything needed because of the experience gained in this little project of mine.

[Waterrat]

Wow those are amazing.

[James McMullen]

You can turn those egg-shaped ones on the lathe. Just cut the mortise for the sheave while the blank is still square edged, turn them, and then gouge or file the groove for the rope after parting off. I usually turn a gang blank of two or three at a time. I'm sorry, but I seem for once to not have an applicable picture of this on hand. I'll have to take some when I next make a set.

You can turn your own sheaves too, if you have a mandrel for your lathe. Lignum vitae is the perfect wood for this: very hard, and with it's dense, waxy nature, pretty much self-lubricating on the pivot pin.

[SchoonersRUS]

You can turn those egg-shaped ones on the lathe. Just cut the mortise for the sheave while the blank is still square edged, turn them, and then gouge or file the groove for the rope after parting off. I usually turn a gang blank of two or three at a time. I'm sorry, but I seem for once to not have an applicable picture of this on hand. I'll have to take some when I next make a set.

You can turn your own sheaves too, if you have a mandrel for your lathe. Lignum vitae is the perfect wood for this: very hard, and with it's dense, waxy nature, pretty much self-lubricating on the pivot pin.

That's good advice, James. Thanks, buddy. I was just looking at different ways to make my own blocks, and you're a big help. Lignum vitae, huh? Now if I could only find some place to buy it ...

[James McMullen]

You can buy Lignum Vitae at specialty hardwood stores like Crosscut or Edensaw. On the east coast you might try M.L.Condon in White Plains.

Lately I have been turning the sheaves on my engine lathe instead of on the wood lathe to get precisely uniform tolerances. The depth and width and shape of the groove all have optimal dimensions based on what size and type of rope you are using, and in higher load applications it is pretty important to get these right or the blocks won't run as smoothly, may be prone to jamming, or even just wear on the rope at a faster rate.
The block shells are still easier made on the wood lathe though.

[SeaB]

The Marlinespike Sailor by Hervey Garrett Smith has plans and instructions for the style of rope stopped blocks you like.
I'm nearby and can photocopy the relavent pages if you would like. Otherwise a copy may be available through the local library on interlibrary loan.

PM me if you would like.

[skuthorp]

I have made my own from old Aussie hardwood, Bronze pins and sheaves, which I grooved in the piece (of rod) and cut off afterwards as I needed them. I had more trouble with the rope strops than making the blocks, and I'm still not happy.

[PeterSibley]

That's a fine looking bit of work , lovely timber and the sheave is just as cast .... a skim on the lathe might have been good but perhaps it doesn't matter. As Jeff says I have "fun" with the ropework. That splice must be very neat and very short and far better than my best !

[jalmberg]

It's harder than it looks to make a nice block. I've been blogging about my experiments. This is the best one I've managed to make, so far:

http://www.unlikelyboatbuilder.com/2...kes-shape.html

[Desert Sailor]

I've started to experiment with making my own blocks, using a plunge router with templates. Makes a functional block pretty quickly, but nothing like some of the art work shown here.

But where can I get the twine, 3-strand hemp, etc.? As you can see from the moniker, it's not the kind of stuff I can get locally.

[wizbang 13]

main sheet blocks on my ketch. Very simple. The actual sheet seizes onto the block
and the eyebolt in the deck

[wizbang 13]

whoops wrong caption. this is the deck nblock. 60,000 miles on it.

[Desert Sailor]

You can buy Lignum Vitae at specialty hardwood stores like Crosscut or Edensaw. On the east coast you might try M.L.Condon in White Plains.

I really envy you guys who have access to a vendor like Edensaw. I met them for the first time at the 2012 PT Wooden Boat Festival. They talk about woods of which I can only dream. Here in Albuquerque, the hardwood suppliers (2) sell most of their stuff to shops making boxes, so the quality and selection is limited.

I would love to get my hands on some real lignum vitae sheave stock...

[James McMullen]

It's fun stuff to work with, Desert Sailor. It's so dense and waxy that it almost feels sorta like sharpening a crayon when you turn it.

I betcha there's someone who can ship you a chunk of the size for making sheaves from. maybe Penn State? They sell blanks for turners.

Another wood that would probably work for sheaves and which you have better access to than most is mesquite. It is hard and dense and stable. In fact an entire block made from mesquite root wood ought to work fantastic.

[Desert Sailor]

Another wood that would probably work for sheaves and which you have better access to than most is mesquite. It is hard and dense and stable. In fact an entire block made from mesquite root wood ought to work fantastic.

I haven't seen mesquite at either one of the two hardwood dealers here in ABQ. Odds are I'll have to go the mail order route, which I can't say I'm really comfortable with. But worth a shot. Thankfully, you don't need terribly much to make a few blocks.

As big a challenge is getting the other stuff -- tarred marline, parceling canvas, etc. Not a big market in the desert for that, either. Recommendations appreciated. I'm thinking of making my own blocks for my SCAMP build, which will start next week.
--
Mark

[jalmberg]

I've been buying rope from R&W Rope, though I'm sure there are others. If you call them, they will send you samples. They have real hemp, which I've never used, as well as synthetic Hempex, Buff, and POSH. There are subtle differences between these that the samples will let you see. Hempex is by far the cheapest, and that's what I use. They are all pretty good for splicing.

http://rwrope.com/traditional-rigging.html

Our sponsor has 3-strand dacron in the woodenboatstore.

http://www.woodenboatstore.com/3_8-D...tinfo/606-017/

For seizing, I've tried that white waxed twine they sell at West Marine. Good for seizing ends of rope, but it doesn't look right for seizing blocks, to my eye. I have some tarred hemp, which is attractive and traditional (and smells great), and tarred nylon, which is not so traditional, but it looks okay, and is super strong. I use #18 for blocks.

Tarred nylon is widely available (just google it) and wooden boat has tarred hemp:

http://www.woodenboatstore.com/Riggi.../products/116/

Brass thimbles are a little harder to find. I got mine at duckworks:

http://www.duckworksbbs.com/hardware...bles/index.htm

They also have bronze rod for the axle.

It's dead easy to make rope grommets. Anyone who says they are difficult hasn't really tried to make one. I sat and made 10 of them while watching TV. The first few were a little rough, but then you pick up the knack and it's really easy. Same with putting in eye-splices. Easier than tying your shoes. I used the methods in Brian Toss's book.

Harder is to make them exactly the right size. That takes a bit of trial and error. Don't forget you need to stretch them while applying the seizing. The grommet should end up rock hard when you are done.

Hope this helps!

[Desert Sailor]

Hope this helps!

"Helps" is understatement. I'm sure you've saved me hours of Internet searching. First major block-making project is to make some rather large blocks to put together a Handy Billy -- I have to move some railroad ties around in my back yard to rebuild some retaining walls.

I see from your blog that you're an RPI alum? '79 B.S. and '80 M.E. here. And at the undergraduate level, I don't think RPI gives up anything to MIT...

(duck and cover...)
--
Mark

[jalmberg]

"Helps" is understatement. I'm sure you've saved me hours of Internet searching. First major block-making project is to make some rather large blocks to put together a Handy Billy -- I have to move some railroad ties around in my back yard to rebuild some retaining walls.

I see from your blog that you're an RPI alum? '79 B.S. and '80 M.E. here. And at the undergraduate level, I don't think RPI gives up anything to MIT...

(duck and cover...)
--
Mark

But Boston beat Troy by a landslide. My daughter's at BU at the moment. Don't forget to post pictures when you have them!

[Desert Sailor]

Definitely a rebuilding year for the Engineers. My dad is a BU alum, and even though he doesn't concern himself much with his alma mater, he loses no opportunity to remind me of such events as you describe.

Photos when it all happens. Lots to do, and like any major project, procurement is a major factor.

[PeterSibley]

Here's something of possible interest. A collection of sheaves, some nylon with bronze bushes.Some stainless with bronze bushes. The prices are pretty good, all very useful to anyone wanting to make their own blocks.

http://allthingsstainless.com.au/hom...FUYcpAodVTG8AQ

Open the hardware catalogue pdf and go to page 38.

The link is Australian so perhaps not of huge interest to those in other countries but it seems very likely the same products are available elsewhere. The stainless sheaves would be great for a big boat!

[purri]

As I remember you need to match the diameter of sheave and profile to the diameter (etc) of the cordage and mechanical advantage required. From memory copies of the "British Manual of Seamanship" has some info.

[PeterSibley]

I'd say the larger the diameter of the sheave the better and of course the rope should fit the sheave profile.

[Sailor]

The Marlinespike Sailor by Hervey Garrett Smith has plans and instructions for the style of rope stopped blocks you like.
I'm nearby and can photocopy the relavent pages if you would like. Otherwise a copy may be available through the local library on interlibrary loan.

PM me if you would like.

I have a copy of the book. My favorite book on the subject actually. I have used it to teach alot of seamanship, knotwork, splicing etc. His drawings are very clear and the text just adds to it. I like Smith's writing. The book is where I've been looking for the blocks. I was just hoping there would be others who had some dimensions. I'd like to do a couple each, single, double and treble sheaved blocks. His diagram is for a single with some discussion about increasing the number of sheaves.

[stromborg]

.... My daughter's at BU at the moment. ...

Go Terriers!

I've been thinking about starting to work on grommets again, guess it's time to settle in and make a few. Getting them to finish off cleanly has always been my problem.

Steve
(School of Fine Arts '84-'88)

[jalmberg]

I just cut off the ends, leaving a bit sticking out. Eventually, the ends get pulled into the rope. At first, I tried melting them, but don't think it makes the splice any stronger and I don't like the feel of the hard globs.

[John Meachen]

Amazing how the old ideas just get reinvented http://www.harken.com/blocks/QA_SoftAttach.php .

[Peerie Maa]

Amazing how the old ideas just get reinvented http://www.harken.com/blocks/QA_SoftAttach.php .

I'd include some thimbles to protect from chafe if I were to use them.

[Dave Hadfield]

I have about 10 wooden blocks in use on Drake, most hand made. I documented some of them here http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...ed-ketch/page2

Making a wooden block is a great project. It's the perfect thing to do on a snowy winter weekend.

I've come to prefer blocks mortised out of one piece of wood. They're much simpler -- you can start with a piece of cherry out of the woodshed, if you're lucky. And they are very simple to treat -- just remove the strap, then drop them in a pot of boiling linseed oil. The strap if it can be reused goes into a pot of wood-sauce.

[Wooden Boat Fittings]

Just to make it clear, the line that surrounds the block itself and the thimble is not spliced -- it's a grommet made up from one strand, 'woven' three times by laying the strand into the grooves left by the original lay of the line. (I'm not going to attempt to describe it any further -- see the HG Smith reference for details. There are a couple of pictures near the bottom of this page.) It's not a difficult process, and where the two ends are finally united to complete the grommet the completion of the fitting is nowhere near as bulky as a short splice -- which is by definition twice the thickness of the line, whereas the last tuck of a grommet adds only a third. I generally place that part of the grommet, when complete, at the arse of the block where the slightly extra bulk is hardly noticeable.

[Tim Marchetti]

This thread has inspired me. I am in the middle of cutting ash shells for Rockport Marine's restoration of Aventuress http://www.rockportmarine.com/boat_d...=19&category=5 These will have bronze straps and sheaves.


I was thinking of making similar blocks for my gaff rigged sailing dinghy build, but I have to say I love the look of these rope stroped blocks. I've been playing with CAD models and think I have a design that I like. This block is for 3/8 line and is about 3 inches long. What size line do you think I should use for the grommet?

[John Meachen]

Thats a nicely rendered block.May I ask what program you used to achieve such a good replica of ash?

[Tim Marchetti]

Thanks John, I use Rhino for all my design work. I'm going to make my blocks out of some greenheart that I've had for about 20 years.

[ChrisR]

Wow, these blocks are beautiful. Does anyone think there is any way that i could make blocks like these for a racing dinghy? It sounds like a beautiful touch to my wood mast and boom.

[Tim Marchetti]

Wow, these blocks are beautiful. Does anyone think there is any way that i could make blocks like these for a racing dinghy? It sounds like a beautiful touch to my wood mast and boom.

Don't see why not

[Tim Marchetti]

I had some time yesterday to rough out 5 little greenheart blocks for my sailing dinghy.

[Sailor]

If those come out of a machine, maybe you should consider posting them on ebay. You can't sell them here but if we saw them on ebay, I'm sure there are a few here who would buy some.

[Tim Marchetti]

If those come out of a machine, maybe you should consider posting them on ebay. You can't sell them here but if we saw them on ebay, I'm sure there are a few here who would buy some.

It seems they would have to be custom made to cover sizes and types of wood.

[Tim Marchetti]

just came across these http://rwrope.com/traditional-riggin...op-single.html

[stromborg]

I've been thinking about this as I work my way through Marlinespike Sailor.

Once upon a time I was a technical theater guy, we did a lot of rigging to get scenery and actors moved around the stage. The key piece of information you need in making a block is actually the diameter of your line, this gets you to the right size (diameter again) for your sheave.

A little internet digging found the following sheave sizes seem to be an industry standard for rope:
3/8" line 3"sheave
1/2" line 4" sheave
5/8" line 5" sheave
3/4" line 6" sheave
They seem pretty beefy, but I don't think you are looking for sleekness if you are building your own blocks and stropping them with rope.

Wire rope has it's own set of sizes.

Once you have the sheave size you just build the rest of the block around it. We made ours out of steel, how much wood you need to support the axle and protect the sheave would (I think) be a function of what kind of wood you choose to use. You would also not want to bend your rope grommet around a block that is too small in diameter either.

Steve

[jalmberg]

I've been thinking about this as I work my way through Marlinespike Sailor.

Once upon a time I was a technical theater guy, we did a lot of rigging to get scenery and actors moved around the stage. The key piece of information you need in making a block is actually the diameter of your line, this gets you to the right size (diameter again) for your sheave.

A little internet digging found the following sheave sizes seem to be an industry standard for rope:
3/8" line 3"sheave
1/2" line 4" sheave
5/8" line 5" sheave
3/4" line 6" sheave
They seem pretty beefy, but I don't think you are looking for sleekness if you are building your own blocks and stropping them with rope.

Wire rope has it's own set of sizes.

Once you have the sheave size you just build the rest of the block around it. We made ours out of steel, how much wood you need to support the axle and protect the sheave would (I think) be a function of what kind of wood you choose to use. You would also not want to bend your rope grommet around a block that is too small in diameter either.

Steve

Those seem pretty generous sizes. Brion Toss says sheave size should be 4-6 times the diameter of the line:

3/8" line, 1 1/2" - 2 1/4" sheave
1/2" line, 2" - 3" sheave
etc.,

Bigger is better (less resistance, less fatigue), but I've used Brion's more modest size sheaves and they seem adequate for my needs.

[wizbang 13]

Those large size sheaves would make the block cumbersome and heavy too.
Even for a tub like mine.