Scraping Question

[chuckt]

So what's the best scraper? I like using the heat gun as opposed to stripping mainly because I dont want to open up the shop and let all my heat out and the fumes would otherwise be very thick.

I use a regular flat scraper but every once in a while that catches the wood and makes a gouge. Is there a better tool?

[chuckt]

I meant "Scrapeing" not "Scraping" of course

[Tom Freeman]

We use these. When I am doing a lot of scraping, I try to have 3 of the Pro Prep scrapers and a good mill file handy. I use one until it gets dull, then grab the second and then the 3rd. Then I take a little break and sharpen them all. I don't scrape but about 15 to 20 mins with each before sharpening again. The one in the middle is a Red Devil blade that I've modified to use by hand to get into corners and tight spaces. I have a smaller one of those as well, but I counldn't put my hand on it tonight for some reason. These have been the only scrapers except for a Lie Nielsen cabinet scraper that we have used on Peaceful.

[Tom Freeman]

I use a regular flat scraper but every once in a while that catches the wood and makes a gouge.

Jessica would hang you out to dry for that. The general rule is that if the scraper is sharp, and the finish is hot, and the touch is deft, then the surface should be relatively smooth and clean.

For the record, I get an occasional dig in the hull when I get in a hurry, but since I'm the guy that does all of the spot filling and priming, those rarely get called out. Gouges in the mahogany cabin sides simply can't happen. That's why Jessica does all of that work. She takes a while, but she is more careful than I am, so we don't have any mistakes. My job is to stand by and file the scrapers so that they are always clean and sharp when we are doing that work. We should do a bit more of that in the next couple of weekends on the cockpit interior.

[Ian McColgin]

I think there's nothing like the basic Red Devil or similar brand - two or four blades - tend to be blued and wonderful steel - that rotate and flip under simple handle. Sharpen by filing at 45 degrees INTO or along the edge, not off it. Off leaves too big a fragile curl. When sharp, run a burnishing iron (Damn, that sounds fancy! I use my marling spike when looking nautical and any old screwdriver shank when that's all that's handy) along to give the edge the slightest turn.

With heatgun (invest in a professional model since the cheapies are about as much use as a hair dryer except they don't last for the hours of continuous use you need) in one hand and the scraper in the other, it's amazing how much paint you take off.

If you're digging deeply into many layers of old paint and especially if not sure of which way the grain is going, use the serrated blade and don't be afraid to use it in all directions, even across the grain. It will get rid of lots of wood and leave a surface where you can see the grain and flatten cleanly.

I'm ambidexterous so find it easy to work the scraper with either hand. If you're seriously oriented to one hand or the other, keep the heat gun in your off hand.

G'luck

[Bruce Hooke]

If dealing with an old boat also be aware that you may be scraping off lead paint and since you are heating up the paint with a heat gun good ventilation would then be highly recommended!

[chuckt]

THanks guys. I have a stop at the big box store on my way home and will see what they have. Tom, you are right--if I am being careful I usually don't get a gouge. Its when I start daydreaming that I get in trouble.

[Soundman67]

Hey Chuck I have had good luck with the Richard pull type scrapers. I like 2 handed scrapers because I find I have much more control. a ball handle right over the scraper blade seems to work really well. I will be interested to see how you end up fairing. :P

Lots of pictures will be expected as usual.

[Tom Freeman]

I'm ambidexterous so find it easy to work the scraper with either hand. If you're seriously oriented to one hand or the other, keep the heat gun in your off hand.

That is a gift that I often wish for. It would come in handy in so many ways (pun intended).

[Bill Huson]

THanks guys. I have a stop at the big box store on my way home and will see what they have. Tom, you are right--if I am being careful I usually don't get a gouge. Its when I start daydreaming that I get in trouble.

Yes - Red Devil is good. I have several sizes. Also get a small (6" or 8") fine mill file. When resharpening eyeball the edge cross ways to make sure it is still flat instead of curved in at the center of the blade. Or you can vigorously file one blade down on the ends to produce a curved blade, which I find very handy when scraping epoxy on the inside of a strip build. Play with angle of the tool to the work and you'll find the sweet spot for shaving off the paint.

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

I have a wide variety, Red Devils, Richards, (canadian) and a Lee Valley one that I find is a good precision scraper.



I like those Pro Preps that Tom posted...
never seen them up here.

[Tom Freeman]

If you like the Pro Preps, you can order them from http://www.fisheriessupply.com.