Build-A-Bear, mountain-style canoe

[Sailor]

I found boards at a specialty store that were longer than the 18 foot hull I built, probably around 20 or 21 foot planks. Ripped them and milled them myself. I would consider in your position, to make up some sort of design on the ends using the different colours you have available and use that to hide the but joints. You can cut them on angles so they look like scarphs and make different designs. It'll look way cool and you'll be able to say "Yeah, I did that!".

[Canoez]

Sailor has a good point here, actually. I had a student who only found short pieces of the wood he wanted to use (Sassafrass...) One of the options was to scarf them all, the other option was to use the short strips to his advantage to create a design on the bow of the canoe on both sides with contrasting wood.

[P.L.Lenihan]

Alrighty, where the heck is Andy and what the blazes has he done to MoMan?! Is it too cold down there Mike or have ya run out of some of that there Texas thinkin' juice?! Summers just around the corner............somewhere........you folks must have BIG corners!


Cheers!


Peter

[MoMan]

WELL Welll well well well. I suppose it's time for a little update. Despite my lack of WBF updates, I actually have been working on stuff ... OK i've spent more time thinkin' on things than I've spent workin' on things, but that's all water under the bridge at this point, so on with it already!!

My first task was to strip off my last mistake: run all the planks thru the table saw to remove my prematurely machined bead.

Next, re-rip my too-wide boards down to the appropriate 3/4-ish width.

After that, take an undeserved snowboard vacation, return to a chilly, actually-freezing gulf-coast city and procrastinate for a week, then start the real machining.




Yes, I spent the last 2 days running my strips thru the router. I figure I have between 130 and 150 strips--mostly 12 feet long. I also have some shorter accent strips( pine and mahogany). If you wanna submit a guess, I'm offering a baggie full of unidentified sawdust as a reward for the most accurate answer.

I know you'll feel tempted to feel sorry for me, and I can't blame you because a couple of my fingertips are really raw, but I do realize that the vast majority of the work lays ahead of me.

P.S.--as soon as I feel up to it, I'll update you on Andy's latest escapade. I'm not happy.

[P.L.Lenihan]

I'm not happy.

Hi Mike,
Lots of good work done there and I think I have found the reason why you are not happy......................








your signature line,"I hate fun"



Cheers!


Peter

[JimConlin]

The planking stage is great fun. Really!

[Sailor]

You see the shape start to come to life. It's awesome. Though, glassing brings out the colour and that's cool too. And who can forget taking it off the molds? There's a milestone then there's...... Never mind. Planking's fun!

[MoMan]

So, you go outta town for a day or two and the whole shop falls apart. When I got back from vacation, it was clear that Andy had gotten into the wood alcohol and invited the neighborhood over for a party. Here are a few scenes downloaded from the security cams:





... and it didn't end there ...

[MoMan]

... Andy's wood alcohol adventures, continued ...



Thank God my nosy neighbor heard the commotion and called up the retired General Warning!


... and when I got home, the juvenile was delinquent and was doing a little Mike's Hard Time!


But I have made a little progress since cleaning up Andy's mess!!

[Sailor]

LOL, you waste even more time than Tenner. If going by his time wasting versus productivity graph, you should be done your whole build by next month. He seems to waste plenty of time yet still manages to make lots of sawdust hence lots of progress. If you waste even more time, you should make even more sawdust and even more progress right?

[MoMan]

I spent all last weekend machining the bead & cove edges and was determined to start planking this weekend. I thought about the project all week and made a couple of significant decisions: First is glue. I was really intrigued by what Todd Bradshaw had to say about Weldwood plastic resin powder glue (in Fitz’s Nymph canoe thread). I found a 1lb. container at a little Houston hardware store that seems to carry EVERYTHING (Southland Hardware) as opposed to the other stores that carry only the standard fare.
So I did some experimenting and for the most part, I really like it. I like the way that it blends in with my western red cedar, I like the way that it sands (Titebond does tend to gum up), and I like that I can vary the batch for filling gaps vs. adhesion. I’m not crazy about clean up. The little glue brushes I use don’t wash out easily with water like they do w/ Titebond. But the brushes are cheap, so I’ll live with it.






My second big decision is to use staples. As Fitz said, it’s a canoe, not a piano. And considering this is my first boat-type project, this canoe will be riddled with mistakes, so who am I kidding?

I fretted quite a bit about the first strip, mostly because it wasn’t one strip, but two: As I’ve mentioned before, my strips are all 12 feet max, and my canoe is 16, so virtually every plank will have a joint. I call it a scarf, but these will all be butt joints. Again, there’s no point in me trying to dress up and hide these joints.





So I got the first one stapled on, one on each side.



Then came the real commitment: gluing on the second strip. But it went as well as I could expect and I successfully proceeded with a third strip on each side, and that’s where it stands tonight. I’m pretty excited to reach this little milestone. I know--my milestones, like my gronicles, are very small!





So the fun continues!! ( oh wait, I hate fun).

[MoMan]

LOL, you waste even more time than Tenner. If going by his time wasting versus productivity graph, you should be done your whole build by next month. He seems to waste plenty of time yet still manages to make lots of sawdust hence lots of progress. If you waste even more time, you should make even more sawdust and even more progress right?

To be perfectly honest, the canoe is just an excuse I use to justify garage time to my wife. I have to show some fractional progress once in a while or she gets suspicious!

[Fitz]

Woo Hoo! Nice progress.

Man, I thought cats in the shop were bad, but you have a party goin' on!

I manage about 3 or 4 strips a session. I am within about a dozen of buttoning up the hull. I should be dealing with the bottom and trimming to the centerline soon.

If you have not found canoez's blog already, here it is.

http://canoez.blogspot.com/

Lots of helpful tips imbedded there.

[Terry Haines]

To be perfectly honest, the canoe is just an excuse I use to justify garage time to my wife. I have to show some fractional progress once in a while or she gets suspicious!

- same with mine: I wanted to hire a professional stripper to help with my canoe but she said no way! At least you got Andy ...

[MoMan]

So I’m still making progress planking, at a snail’s pace. But that’s not why I’m posting tonight. I’ve reached the point where I think I am ready to install an accent stripe, and I need advice/opinions. So far, I haven’t found much in the way of instructions on accent strips (Canoecraft, InterWeb, etc.), so I’m turning to you.

I started with the idea of an arrow design, like so:


(note: these are scrap pieces for experimentation purposes. Actual pieces will be white pine and mahogany) But clearly, I would need to build some sort of jig because my lame attempts didn’t line up well:


I decided to dumb it down to my level of skill, and simply cut 6” strips at 30-degree angles:



I experimented cutting them on the bandsaw, the table saw, and finally, the compound miter saw, which seemed to work best because I could cut several at a time.


My plan is, after cutting all the pieces (which will be white pine and mahogany), I will lay down a bead of glue, drop in each piece and slather each end w/ glue, then quickly follow with another strip above to lock the smaller strips in place. Is this how it’s done? Am I missing something important?

Here’s my other question(s): Will this look stupid? Is this in an appropriate location? Right now the strip would appear about 8” above the waterline at station 0, and about 14” above the waterline at station 6. (the waterline is the light blue line under the clamp)


Opinions? Criticism? Ridicule? I'm open to suggestions. Thanks!

--Mike

[Sailor]

Be very careful about where you place your accent strip. If you look at my thread, redbird progress i think it's called, probably at the bottom of page 2 or 3 by now, So much for progress, you'll see where I placed my accent stripe. I look at it now and think if I could redo it, I'd place it one strip lower,or closer to the sheerstrake. I may reassess that judgement once I have the outwales on and the boat closer to completion but I think my accent stripe might be one strake too low on the upright boat. Be sure you take into consideration the fact that you'll have outwales on covering the first and at least part if not most of the second strake at the 0 stn mold location. None of this is critical. The boat will obviously still float but it's the aesthetics you're after and really that's one of the reasons we do this right? Give it some time to sort it's self out in your head, plan it well and then think abit more. Then go ahead and don't worry if it doesn't come out right. It's not a piano right?

[Woxbox]

A repeating geometric pattern can look really sharp, but I think you'd want to put some time in with a graphics program of one kind or another to work it out. Here area couple of examples:



In place of that duck, you might just want to shave down that annoying little helper of yours and glue him in there for all times sake.

[Canoez]

Well, here's a few bits of light reading for you... This, this, this this, this, and finally this.



There are two major ways of making feature strips. Because you are cove-and-beading your strips, one way is to build it up from pieces of cove-and-bead stock of various colors and widths. If you do this, you'll need to make two symmetrical strips on the boat. Alternatively, you can glue up a feature strip from solid stock that is about 3/4-7/8" thick and a maximum of about 1-1/2 to 2" tall (Depends on hull shape and length - the wider the feature strip the more difficult it is to get it to lay against the curved shape of the forms and to twist it into shape - if too wide, you can get bad "flat spots".) Once you've got the feature strip assembly that is 3/4" wide, 1-1/2" tall and a bit longer than the hull, you rip it to get two strips and mold it with cove and bead features to match your stock. Be aware as you build the assembly, you will lose a portion of the "face" to the bead cut - you will need to allow for this to avoid an asymetrical feature strip.

The arrow detail is neat, but don't make it from a single strip - make it from two - just with mirror cut bevels. Works like a charm.

I'd use basswood or very blond poplar instead of the white pine - while the white pine will work, if you choose to use it look carefully for pitch pockets and avoid them. Instead of mahogany, we use Spanish cedar - it looks a lot like mahogany in grain and color, is a bit lighter and cheaper and is a bit softer. If you put hard wood (I avoid saying 'hardwood' - basswood and poplar are technically hardwood) next to soft woods, the softwood will sand away more quickly during the fairing process and can leave low spots adjacent to the hardwood. look for colors and contrasts that will really "pop" when glassed. Oh, and don't put the feature strip so close to the sheer that it will be shadowed or hidden by the gunwales when applied.

[Canoez]

In place of that duck, you might just want to shave down that annoying little helper of yours and glue him in there for all times sake.

. .

[Popol]

Hello Mike,

I found this on a Dutch forum and had it translated by Google Translate ;-)

Hope it helps,
Paul
--------------------------------------------------------
Wood inlay’s

Your canoe or kayak with a wooden inlay is a labour intensive job but gives a very satisfied feeling once it is ready. It is definitely worth the extra time to spend. Whether you're making a simple or more complicated inlay, it is and remains an eye-catcher.
There are several ways to make an inlay each with their own specific characteristics. I will describe below the 3 most usual inlay's all that I've applied in the construction of my Voyager;

Inlay during construction
Inlay during construction is by far the simplest and least labor intensive inlay. It is the inlay that you create during the building of the hull. The disadvantage of this inlay is that it must be a relatively simple figure and can be applied only to the wood-strip method.
In this method, you simply create a part of the wood-strips of another wood type (color), which gives you a kind of striping that gets into the side or bottom of the canoe. Remember or find a picture that you want to apply as inlay.
Do this before you start your Canoe and note that the seams where the different wood types (colors) comes together have an angle of between 15 ° and 45 ° otherwise the weld joint is too weak. An inlay of more than 4 slats is very busy. The best part is between 2 and 4 slats.
Draw the picture on paper (scale 1: 1). Find a few attractive contrasting wood species for the inlay. Saw all components. Create a saw mal, so that the oblique angles are exactly the same (Photo 01 and 02). Glue the parts to each other so that you get back a complete "woods trip". If you have already finished your strong back, this is an ideal work bench (Photo 3). Foresee the new trips of a woods hole and a scoop. This can be done simultaneously with the milling of the normal woods trips.
Please note that at the planking of the fuselage that you begin on time to your inlay. Not too soon because then might runs later the gunwale by the inlay, and not too late for then is the inlay (partly) under water. You can scour the inlay along with the rest of the hull (photo 04).


Inlay afterwards
Inlay afterwards is a slightly more complicated inlay. The inlay or a in which the figure is inconsistent with the wood strips, can you identify this retrofitting. The inlay remains, as with the previous inlay, to both the outside and the inside visible. It goes without saying that this inlay takes more time and that there is still work to be more accurate. All in all, it is with a bit of patience to do good.
Search again a picture from which you want to use for the inlay. In my Voyager I opted for a compass rose. Drawing the picture on paper (scale 1: 1) Search a few beautiful contrasting wood species for the inlay and sawing the wood for the picture on thickness. Saw the wood 1-2 mm thicker than the wall thickness of the canoe.
Create the figure separately from the canoe and make it ready. When sawing the components use as much as possible saw malls, so that the different angles/forms are identical (Photo photo 05 and 06).
After the hull of the canoe is completely close (all woods trips are made), draw the figure on the hull (photo 07).
Now comes the most critical moment: saw the picture in the fuselage. Let the signed lines. Barn, file, plug the hole further tailor the image until it fits exactly into the hole. Take your time. A large opening gives afterwards an ugly seam (Photo 08).
Now glue the picture in the hole and let it dry thoroughly. Make sure that the figure to both the inside and outside stick a bit out so that you can still scour (photo 09). After sanding the inlay is ready.
The epoxy makes the whole thing again firmly (Photo 10).
Unilateral inlay
To create a inlay f.i. "text", "a Dolphin", "an eagle" etc. in the canoe that the best you can do so at their own discretion. You can download the inlay than just on the outside. With this method, you can insert the most beautiful pictures. It goes without saying that it is very labour intensive and you very accurate. In my Voyager I laid on both sides of the bow an Indians head.

· Search (eg on Internet) again a figure (picture) what you want to create as inlay. How detailed the figure, the harder you make it yourself.
Identify where you are going to use wood and cut them in strips about 3 mm thick and less than the width of the woods trips.
Sand off the hull smooth.
· SRI carbon paper drawing the figure on the hull of the canoe. You can best do if the kayak is upside down on the mold is. But watch out that you also figure on its head (photo 11 and photo 12).
· Cutter now with a small side cutter (I used a Makita 3707F) part of the figure out what should get the same color (2 mm deep). In my example I have all milled out what "red" should be (photo 13).
· Glue a piece of transparent paper (tracing paper) on the drawing on the trunk and take this to the milled portion of the figure and on the seams of all trips Woods (photo 14).
· Draw with the lime-drawing each slat and cut it off carefully with a jigsaw. Unclean, files, etc. to fit exactly right.
· Glue the lath made in the hull. Possibly slightly terminals. When the glue is aangedroogd make the next piece ready etc. etc. (photo 15).
· When all pieces are made to shed up this part of the "inlay" smooth with the hull.
· Paste again drawing on the body and draw the next part of the back inlay on the body using carbon paper.
· With a new piece of paper, chalk this area including the seams of the woods take on trips.
· Cutter now this part and fill it back in the same way with the following type of wood (photo 16 and photo 17).
· Repeat depending on the complexity of the figure until it is completely filled.
· The inlay is ready (photo 18).

A few general tips;

· If necessary to test piece if you're unsure whether it will succeed.
· Always use sharp tools and which avoids a lot of disappointments.
· Make sure you are well prepared before you start, so you do not find out halfway through that something is impossible. Then it may be too late.

See remaining pics in following posts.

Regards,
Paul

[MoMan]

In place of that duck, you might just want to shave down that annoying little helper of yours and glue him in there for all times sake.

Thanks Wox--I like the way you think! I did try out your suggestion this evening, but I'm sorry to say it looks AWFUL!


Now, the good news: The best part about having a Neanderthal-sized brain is you get more "a-ha" moments, which are like candy for my ego. Looking over suggestions from Wox Box and Paul, plus looking at the Bear Mountain boat store while pretending to work, something smacked me right in the forehead. I believe it is called "logic."

By stacking my 30-degree-cut pieces on top of one another, the two pieces together form, you guessed it, an arrow! So my new plan is now my old plan, assuming I have enough mahogany and pine pieces to pull this off.

Here, you can see my initial attempt on a single strip (top)




Onward and upward. Or in my case, sideward.

[Sailor]

Love the Pillory.

[Old Dryfoot]

[MoMan]

Well, here's a few bits of light reading for you... This, this, this this, this, and finally this.

Thank you SO much Canoez! That was exactly the info I'd been searching for. I guess I didn't read your post until this morning, after I'd made the discovery about using two strips to make the arrow. Looks like I may have to make a trip to the lumber store for some basswood and peruvian walnut tomorrow. I was hoping the mahogany would be soft enough. From your blog posts (all of which I've just finished reading), it sounds like you recommend assembling my butt-jointed arrows off the forms, sandwiched/glued between some rails and then machining to size vs. trying to assemble them in-line on the form piece by piece as I was planning. Am I understanding you correctly? Thanks again for taking the time to post!

[Canoez]

You can do it either way - on the boat or off. Really, it depends on the shape of your boat forms where you've chosen to apply the feature strips. If the hull has lots of curve and twist, do it on the hull. If not, do it off the hull. We use a fixture that we cover with packing tape that is like an old type-setters board, but bigger. (A long board with a ledger strip screwed to it.) We then assemble the feature strip on the board, glue and either tape or clamp together. (Fair note - long pieces of Peruvian Walnut are difficult to come by - you'd have better luck finding long Spanish Cedar. - Whatever stock you pick, think about how the color and grain will tie in with or contrast to, your gunwales, thwarts, seats and decks)

Be a bit wary of your cut the arrow together thing - you'll note that on the face of the canoe, one piece sticks out just a hair more than the other once adjacent strips are in place. They are fractionally different in length to make up that one arrow!

There are many ways to skin this cat - choose the one that works best for you.

[Popol]

See above my post on wood inlay's.

[Popol]

[Popol]

[Sailor]

You're kidding right! That is beautiful. You've got much bigger Gronicles than I do. Now, some pics of the progress and some descriptions of how you pulled it off are in order.

[MoMan]

Wow! That's impressive, and out of my league!

[Sailor]

WAY out of my league.

[MoMan]

OK--just a note (sorry, no pix yet). I spent a delightful weekend, some of which is boat-related. I spent a delightful Friday evening with a good friend, then slept very late on Saturday, took the dog for his walk, then visited one of my favorite locations: the lumber yard!

I am so grateful for a quality, friendly and well-stocked lumberyard (OK, there a a few) within an hour's drive of my house! I drove over to Clark's Hardwoods in the Houston Heights. I picked up some spanish cedar, peruvian walnut, basswood and a sample of lacewood. I really like the Peruv. Walnut: it looks and smells like walnut, but it's super-light!

I spent today machining the basswood and p. walnut, getting them down to the size of the rest of my strips. Then I applied a bead, then switched bits and then the cove.

I experimented a bit with lengths: I liked the 6", but felt that would take lots of time. Then I thought, "why not cut that time in half and make them 12" each?" So I stuck on a couple of 12" pieces to see what it would look like. Aesthetics were good, but with the gentle (sweet) curves of the forms, the 1' pieces didn't want to sit in the coves properly. So I compromised (as is the case, I understand, with every boat!) and went with 8" sections to make my little arrows with. And that where things stand tonight. The best part: It's all still fun!!! [oh wait, I hate fun]

Just got pix:





I think it looks pretty sharp. Let's hope the glue up goes well.

[Fitz]

Popol: That is some some serious woodwork. Thank you for sharing.

Fitz.

[MoMan]

Well, the deed is done: my 45-degree accent pieces are officially glued in place. Although you still have time to convince me otherwise, I've decided to make my design even simpler: I'm ditching the 2-strip arrow accent stripe in favor of a single strip of alternating 8" pieces (basswood/peruvian walnut), cut at 45:


The more I thought about gluing up the second row of short arrow strips, the more it felt like I would be trying to herd cats, and then I'd start throwing the stapler across the room. So, K.I.S.S., as my tech writing prof said at the beginning of his course: Keep It Simple, Stupid!

Soon to come: more planking! The turn of the bilge is coming up, even at my glacial pace. That means the twists are going to become more challenging.

--Mike
Plagued by self doubt

[Sailor]

I'd double them up, you're half way there. No sense taking the short cut now. That's just me though. I've been building mine for 5 years and I still have yet to glass the inside. It won't look balanced properly otherwise. Beautiful craftsmanship though.