Building peterson's schooner "susan" #12

[RodB]

This is the continuation of the Thread on "Building Peterson's Schooner "Susan"... this is the 12th separate thread in a continuing series.

Here are the links to previous segments on this thread.... Note.. a few of the threads in the first 4 segments are missing some images because SonyImagestation closed down... and I did not redo the image links. Segment #2 and #3 are particularly missing links.. .. I have a pdf file about 80mb in size (consists of segment #1 thru #6) that I can send you if you send me your email address via pvt message..... I can send it via www.yousendit.com

Thread #1 First thread (Images of "Susan" sister ship and basic parameters...set up of strongback and frames)

http://www.woodenboat.com/forum/show...Building+Susan

Thread #2
http://www.woodenboat.com/forum/show...Building+Susan

Thread #3
http://www.woodenboat.com/forum/show...Building+Susan

Thread #4

http://www.woodenboat.com/forum/show...Building+Susan

Thread #5

http://www.woodenboat.com/forum/show...Building+Susan

Thread #6

http://www.woodenboat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=77658

Thread #7

http://www.woodenboat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=82391

Thread segment #8

http://www.woodenboat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=83864

Thread segment #9

http://www.woodenboat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90162

Thread Segment #10

Pg 1
http://www.woodenboat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=96078

Pg 2
http://www.woodenboat.com/forum/show...t=96078&page=2

Thread segment # 11

Pg 1 http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...-Susan-quot-11

Pg 2 http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...-quot-11/page2


This segment will begin with the pouring of the keel, which is approximately 4,500 lbs.

First I thought I'd show the mold which is used in the casting process. This mold was reinforced and coated on the interior to withstand the hot lead better. See previous thread for these details.




Now here is the basic setup with the female mold in the hole in the ground, with doubled chains on both ends to enable the keel to be lifted out of the ground after casting. The ground was leveled here with a bag of cement dumped on top to make for easy minor adjustments for setup. The tank was purchased in a scrap yard and is constructed of 1/4 " steel. The hole cut in the top is wide enough to throw in lead and the cut out plug will be used to close her up while heating the lead. Its important during the melting process to minimize the loss of heat from the tank. The height of the tank was simply set up so that when the pipe was rotated down it would be placed precisely where the the molten lead needed to pour in via gravity.



The mold closer up. NOTE the 1" wood dowels precisely located and locked into place to produce holes for the one inch threaded rods that will hold the keel to the hull. The bottom of the wood dowels are set in a small wood block that will end up producing a recess at the bottom to fit the large washers and the nut at the bottom of the keel. See following photo to see this...



Working on the setup... she's coming along...



Almost there.... fire to build soon...



More setup... the tank filled with purchased lead and billets Bob had molded over the past few years...



Continued...

RodB

[RodB]

More of the purchased lead ready to be poured in via a trough later on after the initial pour starts....



Heres the modified cutout of the tank which will act as a lid to contain the heat during the melting process...



Here you see about 3/4" of lead shot poured into the mold before we fire up the tank... this small layer of lead will melt easily as the molten lead pours into the mold. This just saves some time while taking advantage of the heat the molten lead will retain.



I thought I'd add this one of Bob adding a bit more lead which was earlier, but shows some context ...



Believe it or not... I help Bob with the work, it just looks like he does it all. I'm the one who constantly is grabbing the camera... in between tasks...





Con't...

RodB

[RodB]

I thought I'd show a good shot of the buried mold before all is covered with fire and smoke and metal sheets, etc.... 6 x 8" stock will be threaded through the chains after casting and used to lift the keel out of the ground.



Starting the fire... which will be spread to cover the entire tank...



The fire going good for awhile... ... melting lead good now. Initial pour should be soon. Note the sheet metal that was wrapped around the side and end to contain the heat better.



Note the bricks between the fire and the side of the mold... making sure the mold itself doesn't burn. Also note the roofing torch at the upper right corner which is used to heat up the pipe which tends to have a lead plug in it keeping the lead from pouring. Note the tin foil on the top boards of the mold to keep the wood from burning...




This gives you a better perspective on the layout... and the heat... the pipes they are using are 10 feet long and its still quite hot. We are about to start adding more lead... in the form of lead shot... The lid is heavy but easily handled with one of the pipes....



Heres a sheet metal panel folded into a large triangle ... trough/pipe/slide... in which we can dump lead shot into and it will flow into the melting tank "from a distance". Have you ever poured lead shot down a slide for fun??? It works very well.... Note the clamps holding the slide in the shape of a triangle... BTW, there was some hot dangerous gases coming out of the end of that slide when pouring lead into it... respirators and a good sidewind helped a lot.



Continued...

RodB

[RodB]

Here, Bob is using the roofing torch to heat the drain pipe so that the lead can drain from the tank. The initial part of the pour is about to start. Once the molten lead is in the mold, you have plenty of time to melt more and pour more... as the lead in the mold retains lots of heat and stays molten for quite a while.



Heres another view of our "slide" for pouring more lead into the melting tank...



Finally the roofing torch melts the lead in the end of the drain pipe... and "WALLAH" the lead begins to pour out into the mold.



Here we are getting closer to the end... still melting lead.... still pouring...



Hotter work at the end... still heating the drain pipe.. some of the mold top has caught fire a little... Fire burning great...



Alright... so the lead pouring was done... I left and it cooled for a couple of days. Bob then threaded 6" X 8" beams through the chains at both ends of the keel and used floor jacks to lift the keel out of the ground... sliding 4X4's under the keel mold.... holding it at ground level. Next Bob removed the wood from the keel and turned in on its side so that he could clean out the wood blocks at the bottom and fished the holes created by the 1" dowels by running a 1" drill bit through the keel directly where the dowels are positioned. Bob borrowed a small front end loader to place the keel in the shop beside the hull... Thats all folks for now... sorry I don't live there... so that I don't miss any photos of the entire process....:d



con't...

RodB

[RodB]

Note the cleaned out holes for the threaded rod... and that the opposite end of the keel lost some lead due to a leak at the end of the pour. .The wood burned some there causing a leak, which let some lead escape from the top of the mold. the loss of lead at the other end will be faired and leveled via epoxy.... before she is bolted up. Heating the drain pipe with the roofing torch was difficult in that ilt was hard to avoid burning some of the wood framing atop the mold. This is no big deal as the top of the keel will be faired and fitted and the other surfaces of the mold are perfect. The surface against the hull will be faired and make no difference.



Heres a closeup of one of the holes in the keel drilled for the stainless or monel threaded rods.



A slightly closer shot of the keel...



More to come....... next the keel needs to be planed and faired with the top surface filled in where needed. Then she will be bolted up to the hull... more pics to follow....

By the way, this is the 4th or 5th keel Bob has cast.... and he says its his last. He saved about $6K by doing it ... he spent about $3K but had collected at least 2000 lbs of lead from tire stores and casted them into ingots....

Enjoy...

RodB

[johngsandusky]

Excellent, thank you.

[RodB]

Thanks John...

I thought I'd show this pic since it shows the scope of the fire we used to melt the lead...



R

[ucb4ume]

Thanks for sharing. Keep the pictures coming.

[donald branscom]

When looking at the pipe the liquid lead was supposed to come out of my first thought was that it was way too long and the 90º elbow would slow down the lead and cool down inside of that pipe before it got to the mold.

That pipe needs to be very short and straight to the mold.
You can get lead too hot.

[SScoville]

By the way, this is the 4th or 5th keel Bob has cast.... and he says its his last. He saved about $6K by doing it ... he spent about $3K but had collected at least 2000 lbs of lead from tire stores and casted them into ingots....


RodB

Am I reading this wrong or are you saying that a lead keel like this would cost $9,000.00?

[RodB]

That pipe needs to be very short and straight to the mold.
You can get lead too hot.

Donald... it worked fine...

Am I reading this wrong or are you saying that a lead keel like this would cost $9,000.00?

Well, lead is about $1.00 per pound and casting, if you only supply a drawing, is about the same... I checked with Bob, he said if you just supply a CAD drawing to the foundry, your cost will be about $2.00 per pound. If you supply the mold, I'm guessing the cost would be less.

Obviously, the price of lead varies....

RodB

[riversailor92]

Great to see some new pictures! I have been eagerly following this story for some time now and I was beginning to get discouraged these last few months but I'm glad to see my discouragement was misplaced. What is the total build time on this project now? Do you have an official start date written down somewhere?

[Bernadette]

Believe it or not... I help Bob with the work, it just looks like he does it all. I'm the one who constantly is grabbing the camera... in between tasks...

yeah right...as if!!! seriously i know the feeling. i have to stop to take pictures of our work too and im seldom in front of the camera.

anyhow, no amount of pictures can really convey the hot hard work melting and pouring a lead keel can be. glad it all worked out for you.

[Eric D]

Nice job Bob!!! Nice to get that much done, hopefully it is all smooth sailing from here to launch. Any projected dates?

[BobAlbers]

Thanks for the comments! It was great to get the keel done....thanks to Rod and another co-worker for the help pouring.....it is a messy, stinky thing to do!
Unfortunately, the mold burned at the top (due to me burning it with the roofing torch) and it sprung a leak before the pour could finish....this left about 1-1/2 inches below the top....so now am working on a "fill piece"......
Anyway, all said and done it will work out fine.....will be using 1" bronze, through bolted.....there are 12 ea....
As far as "projected launch dates"...that's anyones guess, hopefully next fall???....it always seems the last 10% takes 90% of the time!!!! Still have rudder, spars/rigging, electrical, finish work etc. to do......
-Bob

[Sailor]

We have a comment about the 90/10 division of labour in our business. The "Ten Percenters". As in it's always 10 percent of your people who are the cause of 90 percent of your administrative burden. Or I guess you could compare it to the power required to increase speed. It increases exponentially as you increase your speed. Either way, the anticipation we have built for this boat to be launched has lately been increasing exponentially as well. Beautiful work and we look forward to seeing your next build. RodB will be documenting it right!

[riversailor92]

Well its been near two months since anyone's last post so I'd call this a worthy occasion for a Bump and a half on this thread! Bumpity Bump-Bump indeed.

[Eric D]

funny river, just today I was wondering the same thing so I will raise you a bump.

[BobAlbers]

Hi all.....thanks for the bumps and wondering "what's up".....things have still been progressing slowly lately....but there has been some progress..
The lead keel is now underneath the boat with bolt holes drilled.....I ordered the bronze rod for the bolts (man, that was pricey)..and am working to get the material to the machine shop for threading...
I've also began the rudder...the fittings will need some machining as well...
Rod has been busy repairing some other boats and he and I have not had a chance hook up lately....I'll get with him soon to get some more pics posted.....
Once the keel bolts and rudder are complete I will begin spars.......getting anxious now as I can see completion coming!! not sure when, but at least can see it!!

-Bob Albers

[Thad]

Cheers, thanks for the report!

[riversailor92]

I'll second what Thad said. Sounds like things, although still not done, are at least looking pretty. Can't wait to see some rudder pics. Isn't it just so exciting when you finally start the spars and rigging? I see that you guys installed an engine sometime ago but I was wondering if you have a shaft and/or prop yet? Exciting stuff!

Keep on keepin' on,
- Cam

[RodB]

So, here we are with the fabrication of the rudder and the keel bolt up in progress...

The Bronze 1" rod's back from the machine shop... some quality work...





The keel has been drilled out (where the wood dowels were in place to receive the keel bolts. All is aligned and ready for the "bolt up", only the bedding epoxy between the keel upper surface and the hull to be applied before final bolt up.

The keel in place with the hull strapped in for lifting by the ceiling trusses.



The lifting setup wide view... Those engineers sure figure out this stuff easily...



A floor view of the rig...



Heres the rudder fabrication in progress. The surface has been sheathed with Xynole .... All the hardware has been machined for this, now inletting the rudder and the hull to be finished...



More to come...

RodB

[Sailor]

I admit I'm salivating!

[A.Greever]

I admit I'm salivating!

About the shop or the boat?

I like both!

[P.L.Lenihan]

I admit I'm salivating!

Once yer all done with that Daniel, start working on your dream boat now ! Time is fleeting and you ain't getting any younger!





Beautiful pictures,as usual, RodB! Everyone must be getting anxious to see her hull all painted soon! I know I am!!




Cheers!


Peter

[Eric D]

Tom,
thanks for the update. That bronze sure looks sweet!!!
I agree with Peter about seeing it in paint!!

[RodB]

Another shot with the rudder body all glassed with Xynole...and fitted to the hardware more or less. The rudder shaft is in position and most of the shots on this update will be in the cockpit...



And here the rudder shaft coming into the stern through the fiberglass lined hole.... the steering gear is on top here... blury...



The steering gear by itself atop the rudder shaft... Note: support bracket in front which will have a wood support system installed around it. Bob said this type of steering gear is quite common and is a solid performer....



A closeup of the steering gear atop the rudder shaft.... with coupler and support for bracket... additional shaft made to link to the helm wheel. Note steering gears like this can be very expensive ... like $800 plus or minus...but Bob got lucky and found one very reasonable a couple of years ago.



Part of the machine shop work Bob has had to get done to complete the rudder system....



The coupler connecting the steering gear to the wheel... note coupler and shaft are "keyed"....



con't

RodB

[RodB]

Closeup of the wheel hub, Bob said this helm wheel was still made but he found this one on ebay... for a fair price.



A wider shot showing more... in perspective.... Some fitting and fabrication for the forward end of the steering gear hatch still needed ... the rudder shaft has to be shortened one inch... so off to the machine shop one more time.



Another perspective.... Note: when at the helm the skipper can stand in front of the wheel steering with his hands behind him, of sit on either side with one knee behind the wheel, or straddle the steering gear hatch and steer facing forward.



OH yeah, I forgot... Bob's latest addition to the shop... a restored Radial Drill Press... Rockwell made it...





This Walker Turner made by Rockwell was really restored very nicely....



Next... completion of the rudder assembly both interior and exterior... and then completion of the engine installation, etc. The mast fabrication should begin about August or so...

RodB


RodB

[Bernadette]

I admit I'm salivating!

yeah! me too. and im talking about Bob's shoulders!!!
oh yes, i forgot. this is a wooden boat forum. yeah...the boat stuff looks good too!!!

[Saltiguy]

Thank You for this wonderful thread! It is truely inspiring, and I look foreward eagerly to each new thread!

[Lucky Luke]

yeah! me too. and im talking about Bob's shoulders!!!

Here comes "our" girl....

[Sailor]

It's back in progress again! YAY. I missed this thread of late.

[RodB]

Update... Steering assembly...

Here Bob finished the steering gear assembly and has started on the deck caulking...



Another angle...



A wider view, note the steering gear hatch allows one to helm by straddling the wheel shaft facing forward... or by sitting on either side of the helm ... Note: Bob has started the teak deck caulking with some areas about ready for sanding.... and others sanded already.



Note how dark brown the Osage hatches are after many months aging with linseed oil on them... that bright yellow is all gone....



Final engine installation details are next.... with mast fabrication in the near future.

RodB

[McMike]

Keep em comming.

[Sailor]

I love the look of that aged Osage Orange. I wonder if I can get that stuff around here? Keep up the great work. I was salivating over the boat AND the shop. Mines nice but not like that one.

[RodB]

Oh yea... heres Susan currently.... from the bow...

[Sailor]

Colour, now for the rest of the hull. Great work. Can't wait to see her afloat.

[riversailor92]

Hey, looking great! I have been following this project for some time and I had to admit that I have been living vicariously through you as I do not have the time the space or the means to do a project like this myself. I was looking back through some of your older threads and I had a question about the planking process. I read (but could not see the photos) that you strip planked, then, cold molded the hull. I greatly admire that you found a way to make a hull with a beautiful shape but without all the trouble of carvel planking (all the spiling, etc...), something I think Phil Bolger would have been proud of. What I was wondering was could you have just put a layer or two of fiber glass over the strip planking and called it a day? Was the cold molding a necessity or just something you wanted to do? I'm not criticizing, just wondering.

Thanks very much and keep up the good work,
- Cam

[RodB]

I was wondering was could you have just put a layer or two of fiber glass over the strip planking and called it a day?

Thats a common idea... and is more often used in smaller boats.... however, when folks are building boats on the heavier end of the displacement spectrum... many choose strip/ cold molded because it produces a really strong hull without the extreme labor required for just straight cold molded construction. What you are asking about has been described as one of the methods that comes close to building the lightest hull per weight unit unit strength.... and is described in detail in "Sheathed Strip Construction Scantlings Rule" by MacNaughton Associates, Inc. and they also offer a well written essay called "The Sheathed Strip Alternative", which makes the case for sheathing a strip planked hull with the sheathing as a vital structural part of the construction. This supposedly makes for the lightest hull you can build....and according to the Scantlings Rule on this method of construction, is plenty strong as long as the fiberglass sheathing is applied in proper thickness on both the interior and exterior surfaces. The fiberglass supplies transverse strength across the strip plank joint and the strips supply the longitudinal strength fore and aft... Check with MacNaughton and Associates and order these publications if you are interested.

What I think it boils down to is that when building a classic design, weight, weight distribution, etc play an important part in how a finished boat will perform and behave in the water. People build classic designs because that particular design was a masterpiece... in looks and performance... they do not want to lose those wonderful characteristics.

In Susan's case, Bob Albers already knew his hull was going to be stronger and lighter than the original and was considering his alternatives in trying to get the weight up to insure performance was close to the original. Remember, Bob is a mechanical engineer at "Boeing... so he spent lots of time lofting/redesigning Susan to her exact dimensions in epoxy composite construction... Strip cold molded was a method to produce a "bullet proof" hull at a reasonable weight ... a monocoque structure with tons of strength. The ballast for Susan here was increased several hundred pounds and the cabin sole is Ipe... ways and ways to increase weight... and make for a good overall weight distribution. Perhaps Bob will chime in here in the near future and offer some more insight to his construction choices...

RodB

[riversailor92]

Bumpity-bump-bump. This is by far one of my favorite projects on the WBF and I go through such withdrawals between postings.

[Sailor]

I think the only thing keeping this thread from getting a sticky is the time between posts but if you're working at that calibre... well you can't rush a master.

[BobAlbers]

Hi all...
Thanks for the interest...not a whole lot of progress lately due to busy work schedule and the darned heat!!!
It's been 100 degrees or more for over 2 months now....impossible to do any finish work.......wearing thin...
Anyway, I'll be back at it this week.....still finishing up engine details/install - got the prop shaft made etc.
It's a little frustrating when completion is getting in sight...although still have lots to do...
electrical/plumbing details/spars/rigging/painting.....
Once there is more progress worth photographing Rod will be out to take some pics...

Respectfully,
Bob

[Thad]

At least you haven't burnt up! Thanks.

[Eric D]

Bob/Rob, thanks for the updates,

Bob, I love the idea you had for lifting points in your shed.

I will most definitely steal that idea when my next shed is built.

Just curious, what did you spec them out at in terms of weight capacity? Thanks.

[RodB]

If I remember right, I think Bob told me the two trusses were capable of lifting 12-14K lbs...

RodB

[riversailor92]

Thanks for the update! Much appreciated for all of us going through withdrawals. Sorry to hear that progress has been slowed by the dreadful weather, but hope is most definitely in sight. It's been getting rather chilly up here in Maine, I'm sure you'll be sharing the wealth soon.

Can't wait for more pictures!

[riversailor92]

Bump and a half!

[RodB]

Ok... heres some more progress... Bob has been busy since the heat went away..... Teak decks finished, rudder assembly, steering gear, cockpit trim, etc ...........


Rudder and steering gear completed... rudder attachment completed and rudder primed. Hull sanded fair and primed with two coats of epoxy primer from Smith and Company.



Note the 1" thick strip of Ipe as a protective skid plate extending from the rudder to the keel.... glued on with 5200 so it can wear off over a long time and be replaced easy enough...









Bowsprit partially shaped... ready to be dry fitted....





RodB

[RodB]

Bowsprit drawings from plans...






Spacer to be installed at the bottom of the bowsprit to center stick up and down...



Wider profile view... the hull looks more balanced now...



And here, see the sampson post fitted and bowsprit laying in place...





Continued...

RodB

[RodB]

This photo shows a cross section of the deck with underply, epoxy/glass layer and teak deck installed with epoxy...



The teak decks came out great using TDS (Teak Deck Systems) black caulking. Initially Bob Albers started with tongue and groove teak stock and milled it to achieve his slots etc. A thin piece of tape had to be stuck down on the bottom of each slot/joint so that the black caulking only stuck to the sides of the grooves...not the bottom. This allows movement that maintains the deck nicely. Here, the teak contrasted with the painted bulwarks looks great.



These shots besides showing the teak also show the cockpit floor teak lattice plus the controls and gauges for the engine. Note the osage trim on the hatches inside the cockpit which will darken to the dark brown shortly and match the rest of the trim and hatches.





This shot shows the "offwhite" cabin top and the wood stove smokestack...



A nice view from the loft... shows the overall look.... The aluminum "U" shaped pipe will be shortened and completely covered with braded line to look "period" for such a schooner.



RodB