More photos of Don Kurylko's new boat

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  • Monkeybottomley
    Member
    • Jul 2010
    • 56

    #61
    Re: More photos of Don Kurylko's new boat

    I like the banana-seat bike with the high-rise handlebars in the second-last pic of #54. Dated!

    Comment

    • drplc3
      Junior Member
      • Dec 2010
      • 2

      #62
      Re: More photos of Don Kurylko's new boat

      Originally posted by Dave Lesser
      Thanks, Don. Looking forward to more.
      Wait. I think I can see a tiny flaw in her paint. No wait. I can't.

      Comment

      • drplc3
        Junior Member
        • Dec 2010
        • 2

        #63
        Re: More photos of Don Kurylko's new boat

        Originally posted by Dave Lesser
        Thanks, Don. Looking forward to more.
        Wait. I think I can see a tiny flaw in her paint. No wait. I can't.



        ___________________
        dentist palm harbor
        dentist tampa fl

        Comment

        • Dave Lesser
          Senior Member
          • Sep 2004
          • 2476

          #64
          Re: More photos of Don Kurylko's new boat

          Originally posted by Don Kurylko
          Bloody canoe sterns! Bloody amateur builders!
          The stern of my boat gave Jespersen's fits also, so it's not just bloody amateur builders who can struggle with canoe sterns - the bloody pros do it, too. There is a lot more complex shape there than you realize.

          Originally posted by Don Kurylko
          I hope someday our two boats will cross tacks.!
          That would be wonderful, Don. Maybe in the fall of 2012?
          One of the great things about this forum is that we don't all have to accumulate the same scar tissue.
          AJ Zimm

          Comment

          • Don Kurylko
            Senior Member
            • Dec 2000
            • 2406

            #65
            Re: More photos of Don Kurylko's new boat

            Hi Dave. Glad to hear it wasn't just me struggling with the maddening intricacies of canoe sterns. But it's worth it, I think. They are lovely to behold!

            Fall of 2012 sounds good. Do you have an anticipate launching day in mind? I'm hoping for this Spring, but then...I said that last year.

            And, appologies to all. I've hit a snag with getting the slides scanned. I hope to get that resolved soon. Sorry for the delay...

            Comment

            • tyry
              Junior Member
              • Aug 2010
              • 2

              #66
              Re: More photos of Don Kurylko's new boat

              Don has been a valuable member of our community here in Nelson. The show has gone on for over 25 years and honestly when the he is done building her, he and Sanda will be leaving. That is not something we look forward to although we will wish them all the best and help them on their way. I have been visiting this spectacular event since the dinosaurs (sorry Don) and it has been great, the yacht is absolutely beautiful. This guy does not skimp or even consider not doing it right. It has taken Don a long time and part of that is due to people like me who he is always willing to drop whatever he is doing and help. Hopefully we will all be helping tear down the old shed this year and get that beauty in the water. Another beauty of his was recently in the launchings section. Did anyone see it? Have a look, I'm not going to say what that little beauty is. Great job Don!!!
              Bill

              Comment

              • darroch
                Senior Member
                • Dec 2004
                • 1102

                #67
                Re: More photos of Don Kurylko's new boat

                "Another beauty of his was recently in the launchings section. Did anyone see it? Have a look, I'm not going to say what that little beauty is."

                I saw it - another Myst!

                Comment

                • Don Kurylko
                  Senior Member
                  • Dec 2000
                  • 2406

                  #68
                  Re: More photos of Don Kurylko's new boat

                  Geez you guys...

                  Next post will be up tomorrow. Promise!

                  Comment

                  • Don Kurylko
                    Senior Member
                    • Dec 2000
                    • 2406

                    #69
                    Re: More photos of Don Kurylko's new boat

                    Okay! I finally managed to get things sorted out.

                    A few years ago I bought a flat bed scanner with a slide adapter, so that I could eventually scan all my slides. Well, it turns out that it does a crappy job on positives. I tried playing around with the settings, but it was super time consuming. Finally, I just decided to bite the bullet and let the ladies in the photo department at WallyWorld do the scanning instead. The poor quality of the images can be attributed to my lack of skill with a camera, however.




                    Just to back track a bit. I found a couple more photos of the clean up and fairing process. This is the spoke shave in action. For the most part, the strip planking was pretty fair and all I was really doing was removing the epoxy glaze that remained after the initial clean up. This wasn’t hard to do, but it could have been easier had I taken the time to mop up more of the uncured resin with solvent soaked paper towels before it had a chance to set. I now do this on a regular basis and find that it actually does save time in the long run. Cured epoxy is hard on blades and sandpaper; wood, not so much

                    For cleaning up goop, I prefer methyl hydrate. It is cheap, works just as well as acetone and evaporates off the work surface much faster than vinegar (which I mostly reserve for cleaning up hands and hair, being non-toxic). I also like to use Isopropyl alcohol as a solvent and thinner, but it is pricy in small quantities. It’s sold in drugstores as 99% pure rubbing alcohol. For thinning epoxy, nothing is better. It’s what the pro’s use and I have never had a problem with a proper cure when I have used it as such.

                    Of course, there is no substitute for proper skin and respiratory protection around any of these chemicals!




                    The sanding board. I always try to get things as fair as possible using blades and resort to sandpaper only for a final smoothing out of minute bumps and hollows, or removing tool marks. Even at bulk prices, sandpaper can eat up a lot of money! And who needs the dust?

                    Striving for fairness throughout the planking process minimizes the need to remove a lot of wood or add a lot of filler to make up for it if you don’t.




                    Preparing the veneers was the next stage in the planking process. When I decided to convert to cold moulding from carvel construction, I wanted to retain the same planking thickness as originally designed – 1-1/4”. After some study, I settled on the scantlings provided for Golden Dazy, an IOR 2 tonner built by the Gougeon Brothers in 1975 for the Canada Cup Challenge. The thinking was to create a very rigid, monocoque hull that would require very little internal framing to maintain its overall structural integrity and strength. This also meant a lighter hull than the original mahogany on oak specified, which would allow me to increase the weight of ballast by at least another 1,000 lbs. Since I was also converting to a tall, gaff cutter rig from the original two sticker, I figured I could use a bit more leverage in that department.

                    The Dean Company in Gresham, Oregon was still in business at the time and I ordered 3,000 sq. ft. of 1/8” WRC veneers from them. These came as flitches from 6 to12 feet long and 4 to 10 inches wide. None of the edges were straight because the veneers were sliced off of quartered logs with massive blades, not sawn. In the above photo, I am squaring the edges of several veneers stacked up at a time. Only one side needed to be straight, as we shall see.




                    A nice pile of veneers all prep’d and ready to go. This is only a small part of the stack – the first layer. Luckily, most of the veneers were long enough so that I did not need to resort to butts anywhere along the hull.




                    After preparing the veneers, I set up a gluing bench. Thickened Cold Cure Epoxy was applied to the hull as well as the veneers to ensure a proper wet out of all mating surfaces. I wanted no voids.




                    And, since it was summer and hot and we didn’t want to drip sweat on the surfaces of the wood, we employed this little beast to cool us down and blow away any fumes we would be exposed to. It moved massive amounts of air, but was really noisy. It felt like being in an aircraft hanger at times. We used to tell visitors who new nothing about sailing that, because our boat was to have no motor, this is what we would use to blow air into our sails in a calm to get us going. It’s amazing how many actually bought it!

                    Which begs the question: If one of the laws of physics states that… “For every action there is an equal and opposite reaction”… would a fan placed on the aft deck of a sailboat, in a flat sea and a dead calm, cause the boat to move forward or backward?

                    Comment

                    • St.J
                      Member
                      • Aug 2009
                      • 367

                      #70
                      Re: More photos of Don Kurylko's new boat

                      Don,
                      What a fantastic thread.
                      Thanks for so much detail.
                      St.J
                      thequietworkshop.wordpress.com

                      Comment

                      • johnw
                        Senior Member
                        • Nov 2001
                        • 28596

                        #71
                        Re: More photos of Don Kurylko's new boat

                        would a fan placed on the aft deck of a sailboat, in a flat sea and a dead calm, cause the boat to move forward or backward?
                        Probably not, she'd sit quite still...

                        Lovely boat!
                        On the trailing edge of technology.

                        https://www.amazon.com/Outlaw-John-L.../dp/B07LC6Y934

                        http://www.scribd.com/johnmwatkins/documents

                        http://booksellersvsbestsellers.blogspot.com/

                        Comment

                        • ILikeRust
                          Senior Member
                          • Dec 2008
                          • 1842

                          #72
                          Re: More photos of Don Kurylko's new boat

                          Originally posted by Don Kurylko
                          would a fan placed on the aft deck of a sailboat, in a flat sea and a dead calm, cause the boat to move forward or backward?
                          Well, that depends. Are we talking about a fan facing backwards, over the transom? Then yes, it would push the boat forward, just like the famous swamp boats in the Florida Everglades, with the giant fan blades on the back. Action = fan blowing air away from the rear of the boat; reaction = boat moves forward.

                          Are we talking about a fan blowing air forward into the sails? Then no - at least presuming theoretical efficiency; that is, that the fan blows straight into the sail and the sail catches all of the air. In this case the action of the fan pushing air forward exerts a rearward force on the boat, but the air moving forward pushes on the sail.

                          My high school physics teacher did this exact demonstration in class using a small model boat with a little electric fan on it in a tank of water. The fan spun and the boat just sat there.

                          If you were to try this in the real world, you likely would get some movement in one direction or another due to ineffeciencies - i.e., the sail would not catch all of the air moved by the fan, and the boat probably would slowly slip backwards.

                          Physics can be a bummer sometimes.
                          - Bill T.
                          - Ashland, VA

                          Motorcycles or sailboat; either way I'll be camping.

                          Comment

                          • Garret
                            Hills of Vermont
                            • Apr 2005
                            • 48655

                            #73
                            Re: More photos of Don Kurylko's new boat

                            Originally posted by ILikeRust
                            Physics can be a bummer sometimes.
                            Said the guy who's parachute didn't open...
                            "If it ain't broke, you're not trying." - Red Green

                            Comment

                            • Don Kurylko
                              Senior Member
                              • Dec 2000
                              • 2406

                              #74
                              Re: More photos of Don Kurylko's new boat

                              Happy New Year everyone! I hope it's a great one!




                              After the strips were all faired, Sanda and I started applying the first of four layers of veneer. We laid the master plank amidships and proceeded forward and then aft at about a 45 degree angle to the base line. That’s Pooh in the bottom left hand corner of the photo slinking into the boat shed. She’s the cat that hated boats...




                              …but loved ladders. When she was just a year old, we took her with us on a 3 month summer cruise around the Strait of Georgia in our 17’ Whitehall. After that, we were never able able to get her into another boat for love nor money! That glare kind of say’s it all.





                              This next sequence shows the spiling method we used. Once a veneer was glued and stapled in place, we cleaned it up and used a small block of wood 2” wide to scribe a pencil line parallel to its outer edge onto the hull.





                              After applying glue to the hull and the next veneer with wide nylon squeeges…




                              …we stapled it in place so that its inner edge just slightly overlapped the pencil line, leaving a space a bit less than 2” wide between the two adjacent veneers.




                              Where we didn’t want any staples left in the hull, we shot them through heavy plastic banding tape. This allowed us to remove the staples in one go by simply pulling up hard on the tape, after the glue had set. It worked pretty well. Any staples that got left behind were easy enough to remove with a staple puller or a pair of needle-nosed pliers.

                              All the rest of the staples were left in the hull, except those in the last layer of veneers. This posed a bit of a dilemma for me though. The only non-ferrous staples that were available at the time for the Duo-Fast electric staple guns we were using were made of Monel - and outrageously expensive! It took some soul searching to decide to go with “galvanized” instead. But I figured it would be okay, considering the staples would be well buried and coated with Epoxy. I just couldn’t justify paying so much extra for something that would be contributing absolutely nothing to the overall strength of the hull. The staples were merely tiny little “clamps” that held the veneers in place long enough for the glue to set. After that, they were just along for the ride. I didn’t think the mass of any one staple that might corrode would be great enough to cause any real mischief. Today, I would use plastic staples and nails.

                              Comment

                              • Don Kurylko
                                Senior Member
                                • Dec 2000
                                • 2406

                                #75
                                Re: More photos of Don Kurylko's new boat



                                We generally laid up several planks at a time, leaving the gaps in between to be dealt with later. After cleaning up any excess glue and letting things cure for awhile, we used this little router fitted with a home made guide to route out a perfectly parallel 2” swath between the two adjacent veneers - trimming off the edge that slightly overlapped the pencil line. This worked fine, but it did throw a lot of dust and debris around and we had to make sure we cleaned any up that landed on sticky surfaces before we carried on.




                                After the swath was cut, we glued in 2” wide sections of veneer to fill the gap.

                                The whole planking process was actually a no brainer. Once we got into the rhythm of the thing, it went surprisingly fast. Sanda and I worked well together and it was fun, but it went even faster after a couple of friends turned up quite unexpectedly one day and volunteered a few weeks of their time. It was amazing having a crew to work with. That was really fun!




                                The second layer of veneers has now been applied to the port side of the hull.




                                And a start made on the third diagonal layer.




                                Finally, all the veneers have been applied, faired and sanded on both sides of the hull and made ready for sheathing with fiberglass cloth. Note, that in the last layer, the veneers were cut into 2” wide strips and laid up fore and aft, much like the inner strip-planked part of the hull. But this time we started the planking process from the mid point of the hull between the keel and sheer. It is clear that this created a much nicer and neater run to the planking than the mess we got into earlier with the strips. Sigh…

                                At this point, we stopped to strike in the waterline. I used the "hose and water" method to establish a series of level reference points through which we ran a batten. I then penciled the waterline right onto the wood.




                                Next, I measured off some points to establish and strike in the boot top. It was given a bit of sheer for looks: 9” above the waterline at the bow, 4” about 60% aft of that, and 6” at the stern. I wanted it good and high. Cruising boats are renowned for putting on weight over time. This was penciled onto the wood as well.

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