Re: Half round molding around 90 degree corners
beautiful work Jay !!!!
Standard prime ++ stain and varnish commercial finish carpentry work most stuff was coped on inside corners and the out side corners were done at less than 45* by a smidge.
The trick I always used was to take a piece of the trim and look for a section with strong grain. make the two starter sections (1 ft each if 5/8 1/4 round and up to ten ft each on 4.25 inch half round chair railing a fancy private school classroom building hallway) out of the grain so it is just miter miter at the joint. That lets the grain flow around the corner. Seal the raw edges, and the back side if not already done. I use shellac at about a 2.5 lb cut. Then glue and pin nail them together. Install as one piece and then continue out from the corner in both directions. I and my subs and partners always had all the trim back primed with a shellac based sealer or my 2.5 cut on stain grade plus, before even starting to cut trim.
Anyone In my area that has been in the Nashua, NH Barmakians Jewelry store has seen how we did it.
If you do the router trick on a stock piece and make a several inch piece out of block for the corner it will be hard to match it on the grain to your long 1/4 round stock. Unless you are making all that up also. The farther back on each side from the outside corner you have continuous grain and no joints the better the flow will look. It is all about controlling how folks , untrained and trained also gaze at the work. The more lateral visual scanning they do and the less up and down vertical sight flow the more impressive and continuous the look. Make their eyes follow the corner out away from it as far as possible.
In a 36 foot run and doorways inset by four feet entrance pocket we had lots of outside corners at the school job. The 1/2 round was all custom cherry ten to 18 ft long.. The trick was to take the longest ones and set them aside to use on the outside corners. So we had a 1 ft to inside corner and then a 3ft to out side corner and then a ten to 14 ft run out of the same piece. Splicing in even 6 foot sections in the middle of the run we tried to match grain but the run was a lateral view. As someone looked at the outside corner their eyes were drawn down the long run. By the time they got to seeing where the next joint was they were too far away to see the grain. No one stops to look at the grain much in the middle of a run.
Hope this is of some use.
Always finish on inside corners not outside corners. That is why we now have Dual Bevel dual miter slide saws.
and always seal your joints before putting them together and gluing them. Over the years I have watched well known on 1.5 mil and up trophy houses finish carpenters use the titebond and then after it has dried a bit add more titebond and then nail up the trim. The next morning on small stock like scotia and trim for panelizing sheets of cherry ply their joints had opened up.
Always pre seal end grain with a water and moisture block. Yes shellac, and it dries faster than the bit of glue those guys were smearing on the end grain before installing it.
I personally can not figure any boat repairman, builder , finish carpenter not having a shellac kit. Herreshoff (SP) HAD SHELLAC KITS FOR EVErY GROUP OF BOAT WORKERS.
My shellac kit has pre-made 2lb cut, 1 quart, and clear, blond, and dark flakes, several clean dry jars, denatured alcohol (best quality), mixing spoons, clean never used chip and on sale natural bristle brushes, a scientific measuring beaker, lint free rags, a yard sale postal scale and more. I never keep my general purpose 2 lb cut more than 3 months. When over due it does not dry as fast so I use it to mix with my dark, at least a 5 lb cut, for Herreshoff type glue between laminations of wood.
I have a small WEST epoxy kit that also traveled to every job with me.
NDNs have higher IQs*