Very dry carvel hull caulking techniques

[CharlieCobra]

I have a K-40 that's been in a barn coming for partial restoration. I'm just wondering how deep to set the cotton on this hull. I don't want ribs breaking when she takes up because I set too hard. Any good rule of thumb for an extremely dry hull like this one?

Also, with regard for putty. I'm thinking life caulk but is there something better? How much depth from the edge of the seam would you leave to keep the putty from bulging after she takes up? The last thing I want is bulging seams under the paint. I've seen that before and it's UGLY...

This boat can't be ugly.

[wizbang 13]

If the boat has been out for a long time , you may not want to go straight into perfect paint job mode. Might want to consider building up a good primer (interlux 404/414 for example) and let her stabilize for a while. If you seek invisible seams, stay away from boatlife. You'll want something harder, but here is the catch, planking should stabilize first.Knowing how hard to caulk an old, lightly built, dried out yacht WO experience is tricky, no doubt. And who has that experience?

[Nwhitehorse]

Would it be possible to lay in some moistened burlap against the inside the hull to let the planking pre-soak and swell before going into the caulking? I had a seventy five year old schooner with the same problem and it worked for me during the time she sat on the hard.

[CharlieCobra]

They are lightly built at that... I was even thinking of wetting her in a bit before messing with her but wouldn't want her too wet.

Nwhitehorse, ya beat me to it. I guess great minds think alike or is that simpletons? Sometimes the two are indistinguishable, no offense meant.

[Nwhitehorse]

My old boat had red pine planking which was some of the weirdest stuff I've ever seen. It would act like coconut husk when real wet and go super strong like hardened matted hair or fibre reinforced bark when dry. And for the simple mind thing is probably why I head for the old classics when it comes to boats. It keeps my brain thinking along the older more simplistic ways.

[CharlieCobra]

I hear ya. Those ways seem to work best don't they.

[Larks]

Charlie, not sure if it might help for ideas but I've set up a bit of an irrigation system for my strip planked H28 to see how well the deadwood takes up. I've used a cheap pond pump bought off ebay and a bit of garden reticulation line and some sprayers, I've got a few refinements to do such as adding some hessian/burlap and a timer so that it can run for a couple of hours each day rather than all day all night.
http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...=111296&page=2

[Jay Greer]

If your planking is so dry that there is considerable gapping on the back sides of the seams, you need the skill of a professional caulker to do the job properly. Too much tucking and driving can start fastenings and literaly break frames as she takes up. Caulking is such a specialzed profession that, even though have have done quite a little of it, I prefer to hire the services of a mechanic who just does caulking.
Jay

[CharlieCobra]

Charlie, not sure if it might help for ideas but I've set up a bit of an irrigation system for my strip planked H28 to see how well the deadwood takes up. I've used a cheap pond pump bought off ebay and a bit of garden reticulation line and some sprayers, I've got a few refinements to do such as adding some hessian/burlap and a timer so that it can run for a couple of hours each day rather than all day all night.
http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...=111296&page=2

Interesting. That might help...

[StevenBauer]

I wouldn't add any caulking while the hull is that dry. Get the moisture up first. Hanging plastic down from the waterline to the ground and putting a humidifier inside has worked for some. I hose down the inside of the boat 3 or 4 times a day for a week or so before launching. It makes a huge difference at launch. I hit the seams with some interlux seam compound thinned with some penetrol before bottom painting.


Steven

[S B]

Buckets full of water, hung around the barn, with cloth hanging out of them, will quickly raise the humidity. The plank should pick some of it up, keep the door closed.

[CharlieCobra]

Cool, thanks for the tips.

[boattruck]

Charlie, It is most likely a two stage process for this dry girl, a very loose caulk job( Kettenburgs are built light...) after whatever swelling you can get with water under/in the boat, launch her with plenty of pumps aboard, let her swell for two or three weeks, then pull her and do up a nice caulk job and topsides. Remind your client that she will need a year to really settle in, before you go for the ultimate topsides bang up...Cheers, BT

[CharlieCobra]

Turns out that it's been in that barn since 1992, eighteen frigging years! This is a list of things to do...

Strip and sand the hull completely to wood.
Check random fasteners and planks.
Pay the seams.
Putty the seams.
Wet her in.
Check the decks and repair if necessary (new wood? new canvas?)
Barrier coat?
Bottom paint.
Topcoat.
Exterior brightwork.
Interior carpentry.
New shelving and possibly teak sole.
Interior paint
Deck paint/non-skid or canvas.
Interior brightwork.
Recondition mast, paint or brightwork.
Check rigging, R&R if needed.
R&R diesel (not started in 18 years) and at least do rebuild kit with new seals etc..
Structural work on framing? Who knows...
Tiller to wheel conversion.

Reckon that's a laundry list? Thanks BT...

[wizbang 13]

Being 18 years dry,If the frames ,fastenings or planking are hinky, she would be a good candidate for cold molding. This would allow you to save the interior joinery, which is usually more work than a hull, tighten her up so you can tighten the rig, which you will never be able to do otherwise, and have a truly dry boat, not just bilge ,but hull itself.

[CharlieCobra]

True. So, the possibilities are cold molding, C-Flex or restoring the carvel planked hull. I'm familiar with cold moulding but haven't done one before. I suppose I should do some homework... C-Flex? I know C-Flex, since I have a boat with it on. What about double diagonal veneers over the existing planking?

[wizbang 13]

Veneers over the existing boat is what I mean.

[CharlieCobra]

I looked for info on Curlew and didn't find anything substantial to sink my teeth into. I guess I'll keep looking...