Rebuild of Norwegian Pilot Cutter

[svaap]

A winter-picture taken on New Years Eve...








I have not been working that much on Svaap the last months, and it is for a reason.
Feel like I have been cheating on her... but I actually stumbeled over a rare pilot cutter that was in need of immediate care, and it is a significantly important boat in the Norwegian maritime heritage.

A long story made as short as possible (for now); I took over the boat (LOA 11,5m, beam 4,33m, draft 1,9m, 16 tons, gaff rig.
Mabye I'll make a similar project-description as I am with Svaap.

Svaap will remain in my family, and I will finish her as planned. I hope that my children will like to sail her, and that they might take care of her together with my brother, sister and parents.

I have done some work on her lately.

I started on the hatch on the foredeck yesterday;















I hope to complete the frame for the hatch next week, and start to bend plywood for the cover.



Cheers,

[Jim Ledger]

Nice bit of dovetailing, Ole.

I don't think that any of us can work on the boats as much as we'd like. They always have to take a back seat to the important things in our lives and wait while more short-term jobs get completed. It can't be helped.

[Eric D]

Ole,
Happy New Year to you as well.

Luke, thank you so much for those drawings, after looking at several over the years, this one seems to make sense better than others I have seen!!! Your efforts are appreciated. One last question, do you have a preference on dogs to secure the hatches?

[Lucky Luke]

Luke, thank you so much for those drawings, after looking at several over the years, this one seems to make sense better than others I have seen!!! Your efforts are appreciated. One last question, do you have a preference on dogs to secure the hatches?

You're welcome
About the "dogs": yes, I have a strong preference for those with a screw and a small wheel below to give the right pressure on the gasket, but I shall post (someday...!) the design of my favorite one where the whole mechanism is able to be "flipped-up" (or down) to open and close instantly while the ""all screw" ones take ages. It is somehow comparable to these latches with a little lever, just much bigger.

[Phil Y]

Thank you for this thread svaap. Just wondering if it would be practical to cut those beams out of the shed, and replace them with beams a foot or so higher up. I think the shed may not be compromised and you will have a bit of working space.

[Portland]

Svaap , any chance of seeing what your new Pilot Cutter is like ?.
Regards Rob J.

[snow(Alan H)]

Rob
When I saw the above post it reminded me that I took a photo last weekend at the Mahurangi Regatta of a boat that as soon as I saw it I thought of you. See below, sorry but I know nothing about her.

Cheers Alan

Svaap - sorry for the tread drift

;

[Portland]

Thanks Alan , it looks like a Fisher , in FG.Nice , but not wood.
I'm really interested in the new (old) pilot cutter that has SVAAP's attention though.
Regards Rob J.

[svaap]

Rob, I am considering making a parallel post showing the work on my new project "MINDE" a pilot cutter from 1903.
It takes some time to keep a regular posting going, but I'll see if I can find the time...


This is the girl when I went to get her in Gothenburg. The boat is Norwegian built, but the former owner (last 35 years) is Swedish, now living in Tokyo.

She is 11,5 metres from stem to stem, 4,22 wide, draws 1,85metres and weighs 16 tons. Oak on oak, and pine decks.

We had to sail her home to Norway, as her engine was stuck... She had not been maintained the last years, so the costmetic appearance was not that good, and she was very grown under water. It was a challenge to steer her, as the hull was "stuck" in the water as the power from the rig tried to speed her up.

We had a 3 days sail to the town of Fredrikstad, Norway.







Under sail










At "Isegran Maritime Centre, Fredrikstad" where I will be restoring her.







MINDE is a uniqe boat, as she is probably the oldest floating vessel from the builder Søren Olsen Barmen, and she is completely documented including the original contract between the builder and the pilot Nils Petter Clausen, dated August 5th 1903. I have the handwritten table of offsets from the builder as well!

The work on her started in November last year, and so far I have installed a new sternpost with knees, some frames in the stern, and will start replanking the aft of the boat with 2" oak planks fastened with wooden trunnels.


I am also working on SVAAP, but as you can imagine, progress is a bit slow at the moment.

Today we had almost -30 degr C ...(brrrrrr).... and it is a bit cold to work outside. In fact, my bandsaw did not even start...


Bye for now.

[J.Madison]

Wow! Beautiful!

[Portland]

Well Svaap , I can understand perfectly why you had to get Minde , she is a classic beauty !. I like her proportions , she looks balanced to me.
And yes , an important part of your maritime history . With all of the documents you have , you can keep and restore this boat as she should be.
What engine does she have now ?.
What engines has she had in the past ?.
Well done !.
Regards Rob J.

[gto49]

Hello! This is my first post on the forum, just joining a few days ago. I landed here quite by accident really... I was searching the 'net for book titles of some really 'old' sailing books, and ended up on one of the threads on this forum. As I looked around, I found this one... and I have to say, I am awe struck! Especially with the photos on THIS particular thread. Here's why...

A few months ago, a very good friend of mine borrowed an old book of my father's, entitled "de 'Holland', Zaandijk - New York v.v." written by Captain J. G. Kuyt and published in 1939, just before WWII. As you can likely tell from the title, the book is in Dutch. I was born in Holland, but I can't speak or read Dutch. This book contains the story of two Dutchmen, the Captain and my father, who left the Netherlands on August 22, 1937 for their voyage "around the world" on a 12 meter long, 4 meter wide, and 1.6 meter deep Norwegian "loodsjol" (pilot yawl). I remember as a child, looking through the book and staring at the photos, because that's all I could do...

I said the book was my father's... actually, I was able to locate my own copy not too long ago in a bookstore in Great Britain (the 'net is amazing). My father's copy belongs to one of my brothers. I suppose my good friend Bert, who is also Dutch, took pity on me, not being able to read the story of my father's adventures... that, along with being totally taken with the story himself, since he was a sailor from a long time ago. To my surprise, three weeks after Bert borrowed the book, he returned it to me, along with a three ring binder full of pages... pages that he had typed out. For you see, while he was reading, he was translating the book into English.

What stuck me about this thread is the similarity of the boats to the "Holland." I will try to post some photos.

The first is a model of the "Holland." The second is a shot of their return to Zaandijk after their voyage, sailing on the Zaan River. Most of the buildings you see on the shore in the distance are still there, viewable on Google Earth. The "Holland's" normal berth was the white-fronted house just above the "canoe" on the mid-left part of the photo, just above the mainsail. The last photo shows the "Holland" at "home."
http://www.flickr.com/photos/43590266@N07/6884145259/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/43590266@N07/6884166359/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/43590266@N07/6884164541/

This August marks the 75th Anniversary of the departure of the "Holland" and her crew from the Netherlands. I am hoping to have the book republished in English on the Anniversary date.

Ron

[gto49]

I'm trying to insert a photo into the text of the message, so bear with me please...

Here is a photo of the "Holland." My dad is in the rowboat in the foreground.

According to the author, he bought the boat in 1937 and it was then 40 years old. It was built in Norway.



Ron

[gto49]

Double Wow... the "Minde" looks almost identical to the boat my dad sailed on in 1937-38.



Here is the "Holland" crossing the Atlantic, on her way to South America.

Ron

[Don Kurylko]

Ron…In John Leather’s book Colin Archer and the Seaworthy Double-Ender there is a great photo of De Holland on page 113 captioned: De Holland reefed down and making knots in a North Sea gale.

There is also this short paragraph: “Another significant voyage was made in the later part of the 1930’s by J.G. Kuyt, who bought a Colin Archer cutter out of service in Norway and renamed her De Holland. Kuyt set out from Zaandijk, Holland, on a voyage to Dakar in West Africa. He then sailed across the Atlantic to Curacao, in the Dutch West Indies, with a companion who was seriously ill for most of the passage. From there, Kuyt sailed De Holland to New York, then back across the Atlantic to Holland with a crew of three.”

I’m pretty sure that Svaap’s cutter and Kuyt’s could have been built in the same yard in Norway. There would probably have been little deviation in design between one boat and the other.

Terrific legacy your father has left you with. What an adventure that must have been at that time. I wonder if they had any inkling of what awaited them upon their return.

[gto49]

Don,

Thanks very much for the book reference. I was able to locate a good used copy, and just ordered it!

I know the captain says in his book that because they were on the seas for just over a year, they lost track of current events. According to the account, they met an enemy ship just before arriving home... which rattled them somewhat.

Ron

Ron…In John Leather’s book Colin Archer and the Seaworthy Double-Ender there is a great photo of De Holland on page 113 captioned: De Holland reefed down and making knots in a North Sea gale.

[chuckt]

Congratulations Ole on another fine addition to your fleet! She looks lovely. What is the extent of the work needed? Will she be sailing before Svaap?

I wonder if you know that in the upper-Midwest in the United States a lot of Scandinavian immigrants settled. They have a whole class of jokes they call "Ole" jokes or "Ole and Lena" jokes. I am sorry but every time I see a post of yours it reminds me of that. The jokes are, um, not very nice. The Ole in the jokes is not a very smart fellow. Here's an example--I hope it translates:

Sven and Ole go fishing. It’s such a great day, they rent a boat so they can fish from the middle of the lake. They row out, drop their lines, and before you know it, they're catching fish, one after another after another. They can’t believe what a great fishing spot they found.
Sven says, “This is the best fishing spot in the county. It’s just too bad we didn’t bring some paint.”
Ole asks, “Paint? Why should you want paint, to go fishing?”
“Well Ole, don’t you see, so we can paint an “X” in the bottom of the boat, so we can find this spot next time.”
Ole laughs at him. “Sven, don’t be such a dummy! Next time, what if they give us a different boat?”

[svaap]

gto49 (Ron):

Great pictures and a great story you present.
Indeed she looks similar to Minde, and is for sure a pilot cutter. You can clearly se that the stanchions are drawn a bit to the centre of the boat to avoid taking punishement when boarding another vessel.
Is she still afloat?


Chuck:

Minde will be launched early this summer, and I am working hard to get her ready!

I have cut away all of the planking in the aft, and subsequently need to replace a large percentage of the hull planking, to get uphold her strenght.
Some of the frames have been renewed near the stem, and the stem/knee has also been replaced.

This is a heavy oak construction so I am fighting big dimensions, but last weekend I managed to get the stem/knee/keel bolted together for the next 100 or so years..
I have ordered and received 2,5 kub-metres of oak for the hull planking. 2" thick and the longest planks are 11 metres long (!). They were cut in 2010 so they have dried for some time.

The planks will be fastened with galv spikes and trunnels made of juniper. I have collected a large amount of the wood, and pre-shaped them and taken them inside to accellerate the drying-time. Smells like fancy perfume.

The most interesting fact with Minde, is that she is probably the oldest excisting boat of her kind from Soren Olsen Barmen, and the Norwegian Maritime Museum are providing help to further document her history.

Would it be more practical if I separated these two projects from one another? (Separate thread)

Cheers,

[chuckt]

Oh--I missed the time sequence. I thought this was a recent purchase. How very nice it will be for you to be able to sail a cutter soon. I greatly admire the mix of elegance and stountness of these cutters.

I've never used Juniper. Sounds interesting.

I think if you have a lot to show us about this boat a seperate thread would be wonderful.

Ron--I wish there were a translated copy of that book! Please enter my name as a subsrciber if you ever publish. Do you know anything about self-publishing? It is not hard to do. There are companies that specialize in it. You don't even need to print it. Publish it as an e-book. If you are serious, I might can help you by looking into any copyright issues. It gets a little complicated for works published prior to 1978. (I'm an attorney although intellectual property is not my field of specialty).

[gto49]

Svaap,

Thanks for all the info here... Very exciting! We've been trying to find out about the fate of the "Holland," but so far, no luck.

Ron

gto49 (Ron):

Great pictures and a great story you present.
Indeed she looks similar to Minde, and is for sure a pilot cutter. You can clearly se that the stanchions are drawn a bit to the centre of the boat to avoid taking punishement when boarding another vessel.
Is she still afloat?

Cheers,

[glassian]

What would be the sense of the PURPLE ones? I imagine to limit the amount of light so they are not too bright, but am I wrong? I have said if I ever build a boat big enough, they are getting prisms too!!

They were not purple when made. Almost all glass has a greenish tinge caused by iron in the sand (all glass colorants are metals or metal oxides); it's very rare to find pure sand without it. Remember being a kid and playing with a magnet in sand to collect iron filings? There is a LOT of iron on Earth! It's everywhere.

To counter the green color, Manganese is added, which colors the glass the "opposite" color to light green-- the two balance out and the result is "off-clear" glass. But, exposed to UV, Manganese "solarizes" to a higher energy state, which form of Mn is colored purple. Takes a couple decades to reach darkest color I think (how dark depends on how much Mn is in the glass). If too much Mn is added in the first place, it will be purple right from the beginning, oops.

Purple glass can usually be dated to about WWI or a bit before. Mn was replaced with Selenium eventually, which solarizes to a light yellow "straw" color. Finally they figured out other ways to do it without Mn/Se.

Watch out for fake old purple glass now. Irradiating (cobalt source etc) can cause some glasses to turn purple; it's rampant in the bottle and insulator collecting hobbies.

Crystal clear glass would be best for prisms, of course. The rectangular ones are still being made, as are the "reamer" (orange juicer) style, both in proper clear. The six-sided pyramidal ones are reproduced ad nauseum in all sorts of pretty and dark colors, crippling their functionality.

--ian

[harald]

Hei Ole,
hilsen fra hovedstaden. Veldig imponerende!!

It seems that you are into another very interesting project and i would love to read more/see more pics. A new thread devoted to the new boat would seem logical to me. What do you think?

Greetings, Harald

[Windsong]

Every project I have that I thought was overwhelming is now easy. Wow! What a wonderful journey you have shared and inspired us with. Fair winds. No words can really do this justice.
Lars

[Larks]

Would it be more practical if I separated these two projects from one another? (Separate thread)

I for one would love to see more on "Minde", Ole, including photos from when you hauled her out and the problems that you've had to deal with. I know that posting photos can be time consuming but it sounds like the work that you are doing on her would be well worth looking at to see the process from start to finish.

[PeterSibley]

They were not purple when made. Almost all glass has a greenish tinge caused by iron in the sand (all glass colorants are metals or metal oxides); it's very rare to find pure sand without it. Remember being a kid and playing with a magnet in sand to collect iron filings? There is a LOT of iron on Earth! It's everywhere.

To counter the green color, Manganese is added, which colors the glass the "opposite" color to light green-- the two balance out and the result is "off-clear" glass. But, exposed to UV, Manganese "solarizes" to a higher energy state, which form of Mn is colored purple. Takes a couple decades to reach darkest color I think (how dark depends on how much Mn is in the glass). If too much Mn is added in the first place, it will be purple right from the beginning, oops.

Purple glass can usually be dated to about WWI or a bit before. Mn was replaced with Selenium eventually, which solarizes to a light yellow "straw" color. Finally they figured out other ways to do it without Mn/Se.

Watch out for fake old purple glass now. Irradiating (cobalt source etc) can cause some glasses to turn purple; it's rampant in the bottle and insulator collecting hobbies.

Crystal clear glass would be best for prisms, of course. The rectangular ones are still being made, as are the "reamer" (orange juicer) style, both in proper clear. The six-sided pyramidal ones are reproduced ad nauseum in all sorts of pretty and dark colors, crippling their functionality.

--ian

Ian, thanks for that explanation, very useful!

[svaap]

Hi Folks,

I will find time to start posting the work on Minde as well (in a separate thread).
Work is also progressing on Svaap, but at the time not at the same speed as is used to.

Cheers,

I will be back with pictures shortly.

[Eric D]

They were not purple when made. Almost all glass has a greenish tinge caused by iron in the sand (all glass colorants are metals or metal oxides); it's very rare to find pure sand without it. Remember being a kid and playing with a magnet in sand to collect iron filings? There is a LOT of iron on Earth! It's everywhere.

To counter the green color, Manganese is added, which colors the glass the "opposite" color to light green-- the two balance out and the result is "off-clear" glass. But, exposed to UV, Manganese "solarizes" to a higher energy state, which form of Mn is colored purple. Takes a couple decades to reach darkest color I think (how dark depends on how much Mn is in the glass). If too much Mn is added in the first place, it will be purple right from the beginning, oops.

Purple glass can usually be dated to about WWI or a bit before. Mn was replaced with Selenium eventually, which solarizes to a light yellow "straw" color. Finally they figured out other ways to do it without Mn/Se.

Watch out for fake old purple glass now. Irradiating (cobalt source etc) can cause some glasses to turn purple; it's rampant in the bottle and insulator collecting hobbies.

Crystal clear glass would be best for prisms, of course. The rectangular ones are still being made, as are the "reamer" (orange juicer) style, both in proper clear. The six-sided pyramidal ones are reproduced ad nauseum in all sorts of pretty and dark colors, crippling their functionality.

--ian

Ian,
thank you so very much for the history of glass lesson. That is very intersting and something I am sure I never would have found out for myself. Cheers.

Ole, I too would like to see/hear about progress on BOTH Of these projects!!!

[svaap]

About time for some progress on this project!

The hatch on the foredeck has been awaiting glue-up.
I only had a dash left of the last epoxy purchase, just enough to get the hatch glued together.






Fine oak sawdust from the bandsaw is ok as a substitute for the microfiller I have run out of.










Applied gentle pressure, and made sure the alignment was ok against the framing on deck.





This was yesterday, and I left it to cure.

A couple weeks ago I made the beam that the anchor-chain will slide on towards the anchor-winch, to prevent damaging the deck. I do not know what you call it...

I had a bronze roller that I would use again.

[svaap]

This was shaped using a tool I borrowed from my father in law, that is usually used to carv out the underside of timbers on log-houses. It was perfect for carving out the channel for the anchor-chain.











l



Yesterday I installed it on the boat.












Today I got the excess glue on the hatch sanded off, and did a test fit.

[svaap]

I bought some really sexy hinghes from German "Top-Licht" made of bronze, that will be installed on the hatch.











The winch will be installed on a wooden block, and will be bolted through a deckbeam.





The block will be shaped before assembly.


It is nice to be working on Svaap again, I've missed her. Working on Minde is heavy work, and a lot of it is ahead. With Svaap I can look back on all the work that has been done, and enjoy being close to finished.


Cheers,

Ole

[Duncan Gibbs]

As always great work Ole! It'll be a good feeling when I'm close to where you are now with Svaap on my my Dragon project.

[shade of knucklehead]

One tip for the anchor pulpit. If you are going to sit at anchor with the chain running over the pulley you might want to do two more things.

1. The aft fasteners in the pulpit should be bolts.
2. lately I have been installing a hoop over the roller to keep the chain from bouncing out.

I really like the way you scooped out the pulpit for the chain to run in, its a nice touch you don't see.

[J.Madison]

What a great foredeck for working. I can't wait to see this girl hit the water. I do agree though that the aft fasteners should be bolts on the chain-way if they aren't already. That windless will put a mighty load on it pulling against a stuck anchor.

You have two really lovely boats and the workmanship to deserve them! Good to see you haven't forgotten about this one even with the new distractions.

[svaap]

Hey,

I totally agree that the chain-way should be bolted to the structure!
I will throw in a couple of bolts that run through the deck-beams.

Thanks!

[Larks]

A couple weeks ago I made the beam that the anchor-chain will slide on towards the anchor-winch, to prevent damaging the deck. I do not know what you call it...

From Capt Zatara's "Schooner in Nicuaragua" thread I gather it's called a scotchman

[wizbang 13]

If the anchor is REALLY stuck, and the boat is pitching, the cat will break/ rip out at the roller bolt.My stbd. cat is very similar to yours. It broke once in a catastrophic way, the chain ripped the toe rail aft until it reached the "top timbers". Later, I installed the 2 posts against the hull for handling chain. The cat is for handling rode and the anchor gets stored there. But for when it gets nasty, the chain goes out, and comes aboard, between the manposts.My manual windlass is well aft, near the back of the hatch, having moved it twice to evolve there. The cat is in alignment with the rope drum, and the gypsy (chain side) is aligned with the manposts. Moving the windlass well aft makes the alignment easier, and allows hand sweating of the chain."hand sweating" being picking it up in a "vector" and having the gypsy free wheel in one direction only (in). I only use the handle to actually break it out.That cannot be done with the windlass too far forward.

[PeterSibley]

A great place for a length of 25mm nylon and a couple of chain claws.

[chuckt]

Hey Ole. Are you using slotted screws everywhere the heads show because it is more traditional than Frearson? I'm going to do that on my restoration but I really don't like slotted screws. I'll use Frearson wherever the heads are under bungs.

[Peerie Maa]

l

Ole,
I would recommend one more refinement to that anchor davit.
The bottom of the groove for the upright links in the roller is below the bottom of the channel in the davit. I would recommend cutting a grove the same depth and to line up with the grove in the roller. This will feed the chain up and down onto the roller rather at 45 degrees, and will anticipate the chain cutting its own groove down to the roller which will happen in time.

[svaap]

Thanks for constructive input!

I was thinking, would it be an idea to change the bolt for the roller with a longer, threaded one that could be fastened to the cap over the stem. Combined with a plate on each side of the roller, incorporating a bar going over the roller to prevent the chain from running out of the track, (like suggested by "Shade of knucklehead") it would probably make the cat/scotchman a lot stronger to withstand the side-forces that can occur... Only problem is that the distance from the roller to the stem is about 10" and it would not be a very good looking solution...
Actually, I think I have seen a solution with a flat-iron going from the outside of the bolt for the roller, bent under it, and bolted to the stem, making it much stronger.

I need to think..... Appreciate your help!









Chuck,
All the screws that are countersunk have torx-head (I don't know if they are familiar to you, but I hope so because they are really great).
Some of the expensive hardware made of bronze are delivered with slotted screws, and I think they look good but don't like installing them. I guess it's all about choosing the right size of bit, and not to use power-tools.


Well, to secure the cat/scotchman/beam to the deck, I threw in some 1/2" bolts through the deck-beams.












Big bungs over the bolts, but it allowed me to use large washers under the nuts.






The windlass was cleaned of old paint some months ago, and I got some chemicals to prepare the surface and to paint it.

[svaap]

Nick:

Thanks for your advise on the rounding of the start of the channel for the chain. I think it would not have lasted very long with it's present shape...


Some masking of the windlass, and I sprayed it with etch primer. The body of the windlass is of aluminium, and I have been told that it needs this type of primer.
When buying the etch-primer, the clerk told me that I would need a regular primer on top of it, and of course the top coat... I bought it all - am I the perfect customer or not?














/Ole

[PeterSibley]

Ole, may I be impolite enough to suggest another small modification? A loose bolt through the nose in front of the sheave .... to stop the chain jumping out under bad conditions ..... one of my pet enthusiasms. If the chain escapes it will scrap the side of the boat bare.



l

[wizbang 13]

I assume you know what anchor you will use and have it worked as close to the hull as you can. Here is my port hook

[J.Madison]

While you're thinking on that other stuff- I have some questions for you. Will you have any type of gasket or seal on that foredeck hatch or are the overlapping sills enough? I am very interested because I need to build a similar hatch on the Maid and I'm not sure how to go about it. What material will you cover the top with and will there be any glass in it? And do you plan on any type of clasp to hold it down? What about holding it up for ventilation?

Sorry for so many questions, but I guess you must have thought through most of that so you can help with my thinking process.

[svaap]

Peter:
Thank you for an easy way of securing the chain from falling out of the track. I will adapt it!

Wizbang:
My anchor is of the traditional type (do not know the word for it in Engelish, but Google translate gave me "Cane anchor"??)
This has a shape/size that makes it necessary to store it on deck. I have seen them fixed by hooking them onto the wire from waterline, but then you have the possibility of movement in heavy seas..
By the way, your boat looks very adapted to cope with rough conditions! Is it an Atkin? Really sturdy!


Madison:
I have not yet decided on the details of making the hatch waterproof, but I will use gasket(s) to ensure that it keeps water out. (Even water under pressure).
Also, I will have a clasp to keep it down.
The top of the hatch will be two (or three) layers of plywood - similar to the cabin-roof. I will make it solid enogh to walk on, as a safety precaution. You never know where your feet land in heavy seas...
I will also glass the top. It would be nice to have some sort of glass on the hatch, to get some light down to the bunk. I have two deck-prisms, but I am not sure if I will install them.. At least up til now, I have not dared to cut through the newly finished deck...


Thanks for all your thoughts and input!

[wizbang 13]

A "fisherman" ? I carry a 50 lb fisherman to stbd. It is a nuisance to fish it into position, I suppose you may not carry bobstays on your bowsprit.
Some use an air channel in the hatch coaming, or cover, to break the hydro lock of wave pressure hitting the hatch. Seawater under pressure will SHOOT through the smallest, tightest gap. I just caulk mine with an old tee shirt and run a spanish windlass from the inside, when things get wet. No bunk in the focsle.
My boat is a Paul Johnson "Venus 34" , I built her when I was young.

[sailboy3]

a "stokkanker"...?

[Peerie Maa]

a "stokkanker"...?

I like the way that our RNLI handled those fishermens anchors on their older boats. They bent a tripping line on to the crown, and bought it back along the rode where it was stopped off. When the anchor rode came inboard far enough for them to hand the tripping line they hauled in on that so that the anchor came to the boat flukes down. By hauling to a fairlead on the shoulder, they could board the anchor without going right forward.

[svaap]

A "stokkanker" it is....


This afternoon I got the cover for the hatch glued down.

3 layers of 6 milimeter pine-plywood glued with epoxy.
The first layer went down with screws and glue into the frame.







I let the glue soak into the sheet before laying it down. It was oversized to allow for clamping the edge together.









...and finally, some lead weights to make a solid connection as the glue cures.








I think this will be solid enough, after all the surface is not big.


Cheers,

[svaap]

This afternoon I got the clamps off the hatch after it had cured.

It is very hot in Southern Norway these days - we are not used to 25 degr Celcius in May, and I find it difficult to get work done.
As some of you know, the boat is just under the roof of my workshop and the heat is -for us- unbearable... We like it, but are just not used to it.... ;-)







My power planer was not working, my power sander is somewhere in the neighbourhood, so I cut the excess wood with the bandsaw as close to the frame as I dared.
The rest was removed with a rough file.










Looks quite nice with the hinghes too.





It will be rounded a bit more on the edges, and glassed like the cover of the cabin-trunk.
All horisontal covers (the sliding hatch, the roof, the forward hatch) will be painted for final finish.
Not sure what colour, but it will be a light colour.








Cheers,