Danish double-ender project in Gloucester, MA

[Matt Billey]

Re: Danish double-ender project in Gloucester, MA

Amish Rob,

I wish I could say I invented those "pencil sharpener" trunnel machines. I actually stole the idea from someone else! That's how it goes it seems. I'll happily take the credit though.

Matt

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

Re: Danish double-ender project in Gloucester, MA

Great thread..

[Matt Billey]

Re: Danish double-ender project in Gloucester, MA

I just did some sanding of the foredeck. She's starting to look down right boatie. I'm trying to decided now about what to put on the deck for a finish. I like the simplicity of linseed, turps and pine tar, but don't like how it turns black. I don't want the deck to get too hot. I like the way Deks Olje #2 looks, but I feel like it's too slippery when wet. I want the deck to be bright, so paint is out. Does anyone have any suggestions?

[Jim Ledger]

Re: Danish double-ender project in Gloucester, MA

Pine tar, linseed oil and thinner might look good on this boat. It's easy to renew and doesn't get too slick.

This is a great thread, and a remarkable boat. Thanks for posting.

[goodbasil]

Re: Danish double-ender project in Gloucester, MA

This is one sexy thread!

[Matt Billey]

Re: Danish double-ender project in Gloucester, MA

Okay people,

I think I've decided to use "boat soup" on the deck. My recipe is turps, linseed, pine tar and Japan drier. Now the question I have is, "Do I apply a few thinned-out coats of raw linseed first and then give it full-strength soup?" I worry that the thinned linseed, penetrating into the wood, will cause the seam rubber to separate from the caulking seams in the long-term. Am I being a hypocondriac? Any thoughts or experience with TDS caulk?

Matt

[asger]

Re: Danish double-ender project in Gloucester, MA

HI Matt.

Just wanted to congratulate you on your projekt. She`s a really very nice boat. Being a dane, and deeply inbedded in the danish woodenboat scene I can tell you, that your work would be very much apresiated, should she ever come this way. You keep up our boatbuilding tradition beatifully!

Yours
Asger

[Matt Billey]

Re: Danish double-ender project in Gloucester, MA

Asger,

Thank you so much for the compliments! You just made my day! From the beginning of this project, I've always been trying to build her as authentically as possible, using as much of the old techniques as I can. It's so nice to hear from a Dane that my boat would be appreciated over there.

You say you are "deeply imbedded" in the wooden boat scene. I would love to know more about what you are involved in over in Denmark. Where are you from? Are you a builder? Owner?

One day, I will go to Scandinavia and find someone who really knows lapstrake construction, so I can really learn how to do it.

Thanks again,

I hope to hear more from you.

Matt

[OEX]

Re: Danish double-ender project in Gloucester, MA

Matt, I remember speaking with Søren at the Roskilde museum last December when I visited him. They do use raw first to help get the linseed in further.( I will buzz him a note about this and ask).

I also know that the soup can be heated a bit or the raw heated a bit to get better penetration. Use a double boiler set up for this as it is a fire hazard. I have few old faerings and I used raw on the planking until the wood would not take it all in over a 5-7 day period, i.e.it was still on top . Then wipe off extra and let sit for a bit (week) - it will not dry, but it will finish its movement or not at that time. Some areas might have to be hit again if you see unevenness, esp. if the wood differs from area to area. . Then I used boiled/tar/terps---no J dry though.

I am doing the same on a 1927 34" gaff cutter I am finishing the restoration of now - just hitting with raw every week as the rest of the boat is being done.... Yellow pitch pine salvaged factory wood as planking, the raw will bulk up the wood as well as make it a bit less brittle.

I use boiled linseed on frames before I steam them, helps draw in a bit of heat, but the benefit to me is that it holds in the pre-existing moisture that was heated inside the frame. The end benefit is that the frame is now primed as well (I have now just gone to using allbeck linseed paint instead for this strep (its messy though). Not sure why I am telling you this since you did not ask, thought you might like to hear it.

Solvent free paints---allbeck paints, that I use ... they suggest using raw under heat to push into the wood and give a bond to help draw and tie the soup layers to and into the wood/raw linseed combo. I do know that the linseed from allbeck does not seem to turn back as early (or at all so far) like the "regular" raw. They actually get the proteins out of the linseed that the bacteria eat---this bacteria is the stuff that goes black. I have use both the allbeck linseed and regular. the regular is black as can be after a bit, esp. in sun, while so far the other is not. This is for the boiled and raw. Might be worth a look if you want the wood look of your deck to not go black too much and too soon.

I also spray the boiled linseed as an undercoat to my 22 4x4 trucks in my business, stops rust and protects from further rust---love it!

Just my experience so far.

cheers, Bruce

[C_John]

Re: Danish double-ender project in Gloucester, MA

Matt,

Nice work.

[Matt Billey]

Re: Danish double-ender project in Gloucester, MA

Bruce,

That's great info about the application of the "soup". Where do I find Allbeck linseed oil?

Also, the main question I have right now is; will the TDS deck caulk separate from the caulking seams if I use a penetrating blend of linseed and turps? My fear is that if the oil penetrates too far into the wood in the area of the caulking seam, it will loosen the grip the TDS has on the wood. Am I being a hypochondriac about this or what? Obviously, I want the oil to penetrate as far as possible into the wood, for preservation's sake, but I don't want the oil to cause the TDS caulk to leak down the road. Any thoughts?



Matt

[amish rob]

Re: Danish double-ender project in Gloucester, MA

Matt,
Even if you didn't invent the trunnel makers (there's nothing new under the sun, eh?), I'll allow you to take credit; I sure will, if someone gives it to me! I wish you luck with your deck; I can understand the fear/hesitancy to mess up a beautiful job like that with chemical incompatibility.

[OEX]

Re: Danish double-ender project in Gloucester, MA

Bruce,

That's great info about the application of the "soup". Where do I find Allbeck linseed oil?

Also, the main question I have right now is; will the TDS deck caulk separate from the caulking seams if I use a penetrating blend of linseed and turps? My fear is that if the oil penetrates too far into the wood in the area of the caulking seam, it will loosen the grip the TDS has on the wood. Am I being a hypochondriac about this or what? Obviously, I want the oil to penetrate as far as possible into the wood, for preservation's sake, but I don't want the oil to cause the TDS caulk to leak down the road. Any thoughts?

Matt

here is the link for the linseed http://www.solventfreepaint.com/cleaned_linseed_oil.htm speak with Soren and tell hi9m I sent you. Might save you money, or might get you a bad reputation .

I wondered about the caulking too, sorry to say I have no idea. Call Soren and then the caulking company. That would be an issue for sure.

cheers, Bruce

p.s. looking at the site i see pix of Soren's boat he treats with the linseed---he has caulking showing on his hatches so.... ask him and see---let us know. Soren is a great guy.

[OEX]

Re: Danish double-ender project in Gloucester, MA

Got a note from Soren at Roskilde. They use only raw linseed, not boiled. They use a thinned coat (I assume he means thinned with terps- but he did not say). They apply this 8-10 times, or until the wood will take no more. Ten they use another raw linseed thicker and with poison in it (I assume he means anti mildew, but I will ask him for a product name). They then finish with linseed paint 1-3 coats.


So I will ask for clarification on products or mixtures and what they do if they are not painting.


cheers, Bruce

[Duncan Gibbs]

Re: Danish double-ender project in Gloucester, MA

Incredible work Matt! Well done on a fantastic achievement!

One thing I've read about "the soup" is that linseed oil will darken the timber quite considerably over time. In the pictures I've seen the timber almost looks black.