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Thread: H28 "Larrikin" rebuild

  1. #1891
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    Default Re: H28 "Larrikin" rebuild

    Greg, I'll be home on Wednesday so I'll look for the water lock then. Please remind me if you don't hear anything by Thursday!
    Rick

    Lean and nosey like a ferret

  2. #1892
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    Default Re: H28 "Larrikin" rebuild

    Quote Originally Posted by RFNK View Post
    Greg, I'll be home on Wednesday so I'll look for the water lock then. Please remind me if you don't hear anything by Thursday!
    Thanks Rick, very much appreciated and will do.
    Larks

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  3. #1893
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    Default Re: H28 "Larrikin" rebuild

    Okay Greg, I have two. One is the one I removed from Masina when I put the new engine in. It was attached to the Bukh 24. The spouts are for 50mm ID hose. The other is big. It came with the Nanni 42 that I installed. Its spouts will take 60, 75 or 80mm hose. I couldn't fit it in so I used a Vetus barrel-shaped one. I suspect you'll want the smaller one but you can have either. I don't want anything for it - I'll never use it.
    Rick

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  4. #1894
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    Default Re: H28 "Larrikin" rebuild

    Thanks Rick, 50mm ID looks right going on the Yanmar mixing elbow outlet size - that’s very generous of you but could you let me know what I owe you for postage and how to get it to you? I’ll PM my address.
    Thanks, Greg
    Larks

    “It’s impossible”, said pride.
    “It’s risky”, said experience.
    “It’s pointless”, said reason.
    “Give it a try”, whispered the heart.

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  5. #1895
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    Default Re: H28 "Larrikin" rebuild

    Another slight step backwards before I can start offering the engine up to make the mounts:

    I’d not previously removed the prop shaft and stern gland arrangement but had always planned to give it a bit of a refurbishment at this stage anyway. What I’d conveniently forgotten about (or had subliminally tried to ignore) was the state of the floors back here.

    I’d repaired/refastened a couple of floors up forward and refastened one amidships at some stage earlier and I recall posting about the state of some of the floors in general way back somewhere, but either way these ones can’t be ignored now, especially as the one that the stern gland was fastened to cracked across the middle and then just fell apart when I pulled the gland mount off. It’d had a dodgy repair somewhere before so was obviously a long standing problem.

    These are the only two now that really need to be replaced but I’ll recheck a few others once I have these squared away .... one at a time

    [IMG]IMG_0899 by Greg Larkin, on Flickr[/IMG]

    As I knocked out the bolts securing the floors to the laminated frame behind it I managed to open up (or at least expose) a crack in each frame where the bolts were drilled through and had thinned the frame on the second/inner (outer?) laminate. I don’t know if I caused them knocking the bolts out or if I’d just hidden them with my previous painting without noticing them, but either way I’ll need to deal with these as well and I have a few options up my sleeve for that.

    [IMG]IMG_0900 by Greg Larkin, on Flickr[/IMG]




    So time to bust out my stash from our much loved and very much missed Sibbo’ - Peter Sibley. This lovely little stash has been secured away for just such an occasion since Sibbo’ gifted it to me for my birthday just over 9 years ago

    (from post #597 if you want to know the varieties of the timber)





    And I reckon the two flooded gum knees will serve admirably for replacement floors as I can shape them to extend the floors further up the sides of the hull without loosing height in the middle where I may need it for engine, shaft and hose clearances. These “wings” will add further strength to the frames where they have a reasonably tight bend in the hull.

    [IMG]IMG_0901 by Greg Larkin, on Flickr[/IMG]


    Meanwhile, I’ve ended up going with the Isoflex flexible mount - for a number of reasons: Price ($198.00 AUD); proximity - their 10 minutes away and I know them; perfect fit for the Yanmar and existing shaft coupling; I’ve used them before commercially (as well as their engine mounts); my existing shaft coupling doesn’t need replacing, just cleaning up, so no need for anything more elaborate.

    [IMG]IMG_0898 by Greg Larkin, on Flickr[/IMG]



    The shaft “looks" solid but has a bit of pitting at the gearbox coupling end where it looks like someone has tried to clean it up with a disc, so I‘ll take it down to the guys that I know at Watson Marine to give it a look over and check it for true and to let me know if they have any concerns with it.

    [IMG]IMG_0897 by Greg Larkin, on Flickr[/IMG]
    Last edited by Larks; 08-19-2020 at 08:59 PM.
    Larks

    “It’s impossible”, said pride.
    “It’s risky”, said experience.
    “It’s pointless”, said reason.
    “Give it a try”, whispered the heart.

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  6. #1896
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    Default Re: H28 "Larrikin" rebuild

    Coupling looks good. Looks exactly like the Polyflex one! You'll be very happy with it. Good move on extending the wings on the new floors.
    Rick

    Lean and nosey like a ferret

  7. #1897

    Default Re: H28 "Larrikin" rebuild

    looks good Greg

  8. #1898
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    Default Re: H28 "Larrikin" rebuild

    Quote Originally Posted by RFNK View Post
    Coupling looks good. Looks exactly like the Polyflex one! You'll be very happy with it. Good move on extending the wings on the new floors.
    Thanks Rick

    Quote Originally Posted by peter radclyffe View Post
    looks good Greg
    Thanks Peter - nice to see you about mate
    Larks

    “It’s impossible”, said pride.
    “It’s risky”, said experience.
    “It’s pointless”, said reason.
    “Give it a try”, whispered the heart.

    LPBC Beneficiary

    "Keep away from people who try to belittle your ambitions. Small people always do that, but the really great make you feel that you, too, can become great!"

  9. #1899
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    Default Re: H28 "Larrikin" rebuild

    Quote Originally Posted by Larks View Post

    [IMG]

    So time to bust out my stash from our much loved and very much missed Sibbo’ - Peter Sibley. This lovely little stash has been secured away for just such an occasion since Sibbo’ gifted it to me for my birthday just over 9 years ago


    [IMG]IMG_0901 by Greg Larkin, on Flickr[/IMG]


    [/IMG]
    Good to see you back on her Greg!

    Yippy yai yay! Big wood shaping ahoy. Retro-fitting boat frames / floors etc is never the perfect way around, but great when the shaping is done a the part goes home.

    Double joy to hear it's Peters wood going into your boat.

    Get 'er done Greg!

  10. #1900
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    Default Re: H28 "Larrikin" rebuild

    'Took the chainsaw to a decent looking tallowwood tree that was amongst a lot dropped by one of my neighbours recently, hoping to get a slab for my keel shoe (instead of the CCA treated hardwood sleeper). I managed to cut it straight up the middle of a chew tube so it will be interesting to see if there’s anything actually useable from either slab once I get them on the band saw and trim off the dross.

    They are about 1400mm (4 1/2’) long:

    [IMG]IMG_0909 by Greg Larkin, on Flickr[/IMG]

    [IMG]IMG_0912 by Greg Larkin, on Flickr[/IMG]

    [IMG]IMG_0914 by Greg Larkin, on Flickr[/IMG]
    Larks

    “It’s impossible”, said pride.
    “It’s risky”, said experience.
    “It’s pointless”, said reason.
    “Give it a try”, whispered the heart.

    LPBC Beneficiary

    "Keep away from people who try to belittle your ambitions. Small people always do that, but the really great make you feel that you, too, can become great!"

  11. #1901
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    Default Re: H28 "Larrikin" rebuild

    'Took the chainsaw to a decent looking tallowwood tree that was amongst a lot dropped by one of my neighbours recently, hoping to get a slab for my keel shoe (instead of the CCA treated hardwood sleeper). I managed to cut it straight up the middle of a chew tube so it will be interesting to see if there’s anything actually useable in the dimensions that I need from either slab once I get them on the band saw and trim off the dross.

    They are about 1400mm (4 1/2’) long:

    [IMG]IMG_0909 by Greg Larkin, on Flickr[/IMG]

    [IMG]IMG_0912 by Greg Larkin, on Flickr[/IMG]

    [IMG]IMG_0914 by Greg Larkin, on Flickr[/IMG]
    Larks

    “It’s impossible”, said pride.
    “It’s risky”, said experience.
    “It’s pointless”, said reason.
    “Give it a try”, whispered the heart.

    LPBC Beneficiary

    "Keep away from people who try to belittle your ambitions. Small people always do that, but the really great make you feel that you, too, can become great!"

  12. #1902
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    Default Re: H28 "Larrikin" rebuild

    Not enjoying the strong dry westerly winds that have been blowing through here most of the week - something like 30-40 knots here this morning. ‘Very glad that I have set the bath up but these winds are really drying everything else out nastily and I can see a pretty crappy bushfire season ahead if we don’t see more rain before summer.

    But it’s also drying out my hull and opening up more glued seams just to add to my splining task and list if jobs to do...

    I had this rather naive (hopeful?) notion that I’d get home, check the keel bolts, set the engine up and continue where I left off with the interior refit - but I’ve been around boats long enough that I should really have known better.......either way I’m kinda' easing back but am making progress with a few smallish jobs:

    The old deadwood forefoot is being dressed and slightly enlarged ready to use as a plug for a mould to replace it with lead:

    [IMG]IMG_0923 by Greg Larkin, on Flickr[/IMG]

    a bit of drive gear clean up:

    [IMG]IMG_0918 by Greg Larkin, on Flickr[/IMG]


    I’m stonkered as to how the grease nipple ever actually stayed in this stern gland though, it simply can not screw in far enough to grab firmly without hitting the shaft so I’ll need to braze on a nut to extend the thread (and I need to source a bronze grease nipple - this is just an automotive one that I had on hand)

    [IMG]IMG_0919 by Greg Larkin, on Flickr[/IMG]

    [IMG]IMG_0921 by Greg Larkin, on Flickr[/IMG]


    with it just showing inside the gland it sits like this outside of it:


    [IMG]IMG_0922 by Greg Larkin, on Flickr[/IMG]


    There was a significant amount of mastic/sika/goop around the stern gear and mounting arrangement which suggests the previous owner had been having a bit of trouble back here, some possibly because of the dodgy floor that may have allowed for a bit of movement back there but it gives me a good heads up to pay close attention to rebuilding this arrangement.
    Larks

    “It’s impossible”, said pride.
    “It’s risky”, said experience.
    “It’s pointless”, said reason.
    “Give it a try”, whispered the heart.

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    "Keep away from people who try to belittle your ambitions. Small people always do that, but the really great make you feel that you, too, can become great!"

  13. #1903
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    Default Re: H28 "Larrikin" rebuild

    It doesn’t look pretty but it works well enough for me to get a general template to cut the floor out ready for fine tuning:

    [IMG]IMG_0915 by Greg Larkin, on Flickr[/IMG]

    [IMG]IMG_0916 by Greg Larkin, on Flickr[/IMG]

    [IMG]IMG_0917 by Greg Larkin, on Flickr[/IMG]
    Larks

    “It’s impossible”, said pride.
    “It’s risky”, said experience.
    “It’s pointless”, said reason.
    “Give it a try”, whispered the heart.

    LPBC Beneficiary

    "Keep away from people who try to belittle your ambitions. Small people always do that, but the really great make you feel that you, too, can become great!"

  14. #1904
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    Default Re: H28 "Larrikin" rebuild

    Grease nipples often have tapered thread. If a straight threaded nipple was put into a tapered hole, it would need to go through too far to tighten up.
    Rick

    Lean and nosey like a ferret

  15. #1905
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    Default Re: H28 "Larrikin" rebuild

    Quote Originally Posted by RFNK View Post
    Grease nipples often have tapered thread. If a straight threaded nipple was put into a tapered hole, it would need to go through too far to tighten up.
    You might be on to it there Rick as it makes sense with the thin wall of the gland housing. But the old grease nipple is a straight 1/8 BSP same as the one that I tried and, if the hole was originally tapered before the straight nipple was fitted it doesn’t appear to be now (as far as I can see with the naked eye), probably forced that way by fitting the straight nipple.

    I’m guessing the old nipple was screwed down hard to the shaft, I can feel a slight groove in the shaft roughly where it would have sat - so I’m surprised that anyone ever managed to get any grease through it.....if they did.

    I’ve got some LG2 bronze bar coming anyway (ordered from Brisbane 3 weeks ago along with my copper rod...??) so it’ll be easy enough to turn it down, drill and tap it and braze it on as an extension and that setup will give me more confidence that the nipple is getting grease right through to the stern gland.
    Larks

    “It’s impossible”, said pride.
    “It’s risky”, said experience.
    “It’s pointless”, said reason.
    “Give it a try”, whispered the heart.

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  16. #1906
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    Default Re: H28 "Larrikin" rebuild

    I have to say that it is rather wonderful to start realising the rewards of working away from home contracting for defence for the last 12 years or so, allowing me to gradually invest in some decent tools for the time that has finally come......being (reasonably) easily able to turn this:

    [IMG]IMG_0924 by Greg Larkin, on Flickr[/IMG]

    [IMG]IMG_0926 by Greg Larkin, on Flickr[/IMG]

    [IMG]IMG_0929 by Greg Larkin, on Flickr[/IMG]




    into this - (though this is it’s good side...):

    [IMG]IMG_0937 by Greg Larkin, on Flickr[/IMG]



    [IMG]IMG_0930 by Greg Larkin, on Flickr[/IMG]



    Larks

    “It’s impossible”, said pride.
    “It’s risky”, said experience.
    “It’s pointless”, said reason.
    “Give it a try”, whispered the heart.

    LPBC Beneficiary

    "Keep away from people who try to belittle your ambitions. Small people always do that, but the really great make you feel that you, too, can become great!"

  17. #1907
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    Default Re: H28 "Larrikin" rebuild

    Sadly there is a bad side, which is a shame because dressing the two slabs took most of the day.

    I’d guess their way pre-dressed was around 50kg (110lb)) and 55kg (120lb) and they dressed down to about 40kg (90lb) each so man-handling them alone with about 30 passes each through the jointer and then the thicknesses after cutting them down to rough shape was quite a workout and earned me a decent thirst.

    On the darker side:

    [IMG]IMG_0933 by Greg Larkin, on Flickr[/IMG]


    these little bastward holes don’t run the full length but they’re disappointing and they are in both slabs, I may be able to get enough good wood out of what I have but I’m disappointed after the effort

    [IMG]IMG_0939 by Greg Larkin, on Flickr[/IMG]


    As the tree was freshly felled and I could see live critters I’ve given them a bit of a dose and will let them sit tight for now while I think about whether to persist with them:

    [IMG]IMG_0943 by Greg Larkin, on Flickr[/IMG]

    [IMG]IMG_0942 by Greg Larkin, on Flickr[/IMG]
    Larks

    “It’s impossible”, said pride.
    “It’s risky”, said experience.
    “It’s pointless”, said reason.
    “Give it a try”, whispered the heart.

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    "Keep away from people who try to belittle your ambitions. Small people always do that, but the really great make you feel that you, too, can become great!"

  18. #1908
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    Default Re: H28 "Larrikin" rebuild

    Greg, are you really sure that's tallow wood? I've never seen tallow wood with colouring like that!

    I think the idea of tapered threads on grease nipples is so that it can't be screwed down onto the shaft.
    Rick

    Lean and nosey like a ferret

  19. #1909
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    Default Re: H28 "Larrikin" rebuild

    Good to see you back in the shed Greg.
    without freedom of speech, we wouldn't know who the idiots are.

  20. #1910
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    Default Re: H28 "Larrikin" rebuild

    Quote Originally Posted by RFNK View Post
    Greg, are you really sure that's tallow wood? I've never seen tallow wood with colouring like that!
    As sure as I can be in so far as identifying it from the look of the tree itself, the bark and the appearance and greasiness of the timber and the black sap stained hands that go with it Rick.

    When we bought our block we had the trees surveyed around the house building sight and what this tree is (was) matches what we’ve been calling tallowwood since we’ve been here based on that survey.

    But I stand to be corrected as I can’t say that I’ve had a great deal of experience with it.....other than as firewood. I see from web examples that the colour can vary quite a bit but it otherwise matches anything that I can look up or have seen before....??? I wonder what would impact the colour variation?? Soil type?

    Bear in mind that there’s still a bit of sapwood on the cleaner side of the slab in the photo above, if I go ahead with using it that’ll be cut away by the shape of the keel shoe so I didn’t bother planing it down any further to all heartwood.



    It’s heavy as heck and it’s a bugger to try and split a firewood log cleanly with an axe but from todays experience it otherwise cuts and works quite nicely with a saw and plane.....
    Last edited by Larks; 08-22-2020 at 07:39 AM.
    Larks

    “It’s impossible”, said pride.
    “It’s risky”, said experience.
    “It’s pointless”, said reason.
    “Give it a try”, whispered the heart.

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  21. #1911
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    Default Re: H28 "Larrikin" rebuild

    Quote Originally Posted by WX View Post
    Good to see you back in the shed Greg.
    It is REALLY good to be back in there Gary - I don’t plan on leaving it any time soon
    Larks

    “It’s impossible”, said pride.
    “It’s risky”, said experience.
    “It’s pointless”, said reason.
    “Give it a try”, whispered the heart.

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    "Keep away from people who try to belittle your ambitions. Small people always do that, but the really great make you feel that you, too, can become great!"

  22. #1912
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    Default Re: H28 "Larrikin" rebuild

    Regarding the grease fitting for the shaft: in a boat where access isnt easy, a length of copper tubing, fitted at the hole where the nipple goes, run somewhere easy to see and get to (and the nipple placed there) makes it easy and quick to add grease. Its an extra bit of fussing during installation, but over the years might be well worth the effort. Just a thought, since now is the time, and I'm not sure what your access will end up looking like. Great project, I'm another appreciative reader, happy the see it moving again!
    Brian

  23. #1913
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    Default Re: H28 "Larrikin" rebuild

    Quote Originally Posted by Boatsbgood View Post
    Regarding the grease fitting for the shaft: in a boat where access isnt easy, a length of copper tubing, fitted at the hole where the nipple goes, run somewhere easy to see and get to (and the nipple placed there) makes it easy and quick to add grease. Its an extra bit of fussing during installation, but over the years might be well worth the effort. Just a thought, since now is the time, and I'm not sure what your access will end up looking like. Great project, I'm another appreciative reader, happy the see it moving again!
    Brian
    Thanks Brian. I hadn’t considered that and it’s a very good idea - I’m aware that if not done cleverly those grease point extension lines can be somewhat prone to getting stepped on and broken when you’re scrambling into an awkward space. Access isn’t really too bad in this case (or at least I don’t intend it to be), but having said that I like the idea and you have me thinking that while I’m brazing on a bronze nut for extra purchase for the grease nipple anyway it’d be easy enough to set it up to take a greasing line
    Larks

    “It’s impossible”, said pride.
    “It’s risky”, said experience.
    “It’s pointless”, said reason.
    “Give it a try”, whispered the heart.

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  24. #1914
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    Default Re: H28 "Larrikin" rebuild

    Quote Originally Posted by Larks View Post
    As sure as I can be in so far as identifying it from the look of the tree itself, the bark and the appearance and greasiness of the timber and the black sap stained hands that go with it Rick.

    When we bought our block we had the trees surveyed around the house building sight and what this tree is (was) matches what we’ve been calling tallowwood since we’ve been here based on that survey.

    But I stand to be corrected as I can’t say that I’ve had a great deal of experience with it.....other than as firewood. I see from web examples that the colour can vary quite a bit but it otherwise matches anything that I can look up or have seen before....??? I wonder what would impact the colour variation?? Soil type?

    Bear in mind that there’s still a bit of sapwood on the cleaner side of the slab in the photo above, if I go ahead with using it that’ll be cut away by the shape of the keel shoe so I didn’t bother planing it down any further to all heartwood.



    It’s heavy as heck and it’s a bugger to try and split a firewood log cleanly with an axe but from todays experience it otherwise cuts and works quite nicely with a saw and plane.....
    The grain in that bottom shot certainly looks like tallow wood and so too the creamy colour. I've used a lot of tallow wood but never seen all that dark grain that you have. But all tha I've used has come from our area so maybe you're right about soil type. Heavy and greasy and hard to split certainly sounds right!
    Rick

    Lean and nosey like a ferret

  25. #1915
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    Default Re: H28 "Larrikin" rebuild

    Quote Originally Posted by Larks View Post
    Thanks Brian. I hadn’t considered that and it’s a very good idea - I’m aware that if not done cleverly those grease point extension lines can be somewhat prone to getting stepped on and broken when you’re scrambling into an awkward space. Access isn’t really too bad in this case (or at least I don’t intend it to be), but having said that I like the idea and you have me thinking that while I’m brazing on a bronze nut for extra purchase for the grease nipple anyway it’d be easy enough to set it up to take a greasing line
    It's what I have on Masina. I have a grease gun attached to it and just give it a squeeze each time I run the engine. I've just bought one of th o se locking fittings for the grease gun. I access the gun through a cockpit locker and the tube just runs along a support post for the cockpit.
    Rick

    Lean and nosey like a ferret

  26. #1916
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    Default Re: H28 "Larrikin" rebuild

    Grease lines can be flexible hose, so long as it is rated for the pressure. Flexible lines are not subject to breaking because of vibration induced cracking.

  27. #1917
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    Default Re: H28 "Larrikin" rebuild

    Sibbo's flooded gum looks too good to paint:

    [IMG]IMG_0962 by Greg Larkin, on Flickr[/IMG]


    ‘couple of minor stuff-ups along the way - first was cutting the shaft hole for the size of the stern tube and not allowing for the stuffing box. I replaced the plug with some builders bog and that worked as well as I could have hoped, giving me a stable guide for the larger hole:

    [IMG]IMG_0956 by Greg Larkin, on Flickr[/IMG]

    [IMG]IMG_0964 by Greg Larkin, on Flickr[/IMG]

    I cut a recess at the angle of the stern gland

    [IMG]IMG_0959 by Greg Larkin, on Flickr[/IMG]

    and that was stuff up #2 - I hadn’t realised that it wouldn’t actually screw in that far - the previous floor had a packer forward of it and I had thought that was more to do with the dodgy floor and that all I’d need was the angle of the gland and a small packing wedge epoxied under it......DOH ...... No great problem but the lovely recess that I carved just means shaping the packer will take a bit more time than it would otherwise have been.
    Larks

    “It’s impossible”, said pride.
    “It’s risky”, said experience.
    “It’s pointless”, said reason.
    “Give it a try”, whispered the heart.

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  28. #1918
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    Default Re: H28 "Larrikin" rebuild

    It's to bad a nicely shaped nice looking wood part has to be placed in the depths of the bilge. Good work. That should outlast most current board members.
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  29. #1919
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    Default Re: H28 "Larrikin" rebuild

    Thanks Ben, cheers.

    A little frustrating to see more glued seams opening up - but it’ll likely be generally dry conditions here now through until Dec/Jan so I’ll leave dealing with them until there’s a bit more moisture in the air and when I "hope" to be somewhere near completion. No great drama really but it means being a little bit clever about fit-out to make sure that I can access the seams internally to clean them up after splining.

    [IMG]IMG_0954 by Greg Larkin, on Flickr[/IMG]

    [IMG]IMG_0953 by Greg Larkin, on Flickr[/IMG]
    Larks

    “It’s impossible”, said pride.
    “It’s risky”, said experience.
    “It’s pointless”, said reason.
    “Give it a try”, whispered the heart.

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  30. #1920
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    Default Re: H28 "Larrikin" rebuild

    Quote Originally Posted by Larks View Post
    Sibbo's flooded gum looks too good to paint:

    [IMG]IMG_0962 by Greg Larkin, on Flickr[/IMG]
    Thats a gorgeous slab of wood.
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  31. #1921
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    Perth, Western Australia, Australia
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    Default Re: H28 "Larrikin" rebuild

    And the angled recess! What a piece of sculpture!

  32. #1922
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    Mar 2019
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    Rushworth, Australia
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    Default Re: H28 "Larrikin" rebuild

    I’d be looking for fitting some knees in the cabin with that wood , obviously one called P and the other S , I’ll leave it to you which side to fit them

  33. #1923
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    Default Re: H28 "Larrikin" rebuild

    Nice thought Andrew and looking at it now I’m sorry I didn’t think of it before myself, however I only have one left now so have missed my chance for that one.
    Larks

    “It’s impossible”, said pride.
    “It’s risky”, said experience.
    “It’s pointless”, said reason.
    “Give it a try”, whispered the heart.

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  34. #1924
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
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    Default Re: H28 "Larrikin" rebuild

    I’ve been able to keep the frame repairs (behind that floor) relatively simple. The cracks were only through the outer (inboard) laminate where they were bolted to the floor so simple fix is to scarf in new pieces either side only as far as necessary and to beef them up slightly (for brackets) and they’ll be doubly braced by the extended floor wings.

    This floor wasn’t fastened to the deadwood in any way with the stern tube in the way so, rather than bolt horizontally through the frames again, I plan to bracket it to the frames and to the deadwood fw’d of the floor.

    I can’t source any bronze flat bar anywhere (in Australia) so I want to try forging some LG2 Bronze rod into flat bar and angle and see if that will work. Other options are to sand cast brackets, which is sounding ridiculously expensive around here and I’m not sure that I want to spend money tooling up to do it myself, or to simply use 316 SS angle. Although the area will be high and dry it’s right under the stern gland so I’m not sure that SS would be ideale, but it is an option - albeit the budget option.

    Really nice to smell some Huon pine in the workshop again and to reuse some from the old cabin sides.


    [IMG]IMG_0983 by Greg Larkin, on Flickr[/IMG]

    [IMG]IMG_0984 by Greg Larkin, on Flickr[/IMG]


    just sitting there for the moment:



    [IMG]IMG_0985 by Greg Larkin, on Flickr[/IMG]

    [IMG]IMG_0986 by Greg Larkin, on Flickr[/IMG]


    need to wait for some larger copper rivets and roves to turn up before I can fit these and then the floor......
    Larks

    “It’s impossible”, said pride.
    “It’s risky”, said experience.
    “It’s pointless”, said reason.
    “Give it a try”, whispered the heart.

    LPBC Beneficiary

    "Keep away from people who try to belittle your ambitions. Small people always do that, but the really great make you feel that you, too, can become great!"

  35. #1925
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
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    Rushworth, Australia
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    Default Re: H28 "Larrikin" rebuild

    Greg I had some bronze portlights done here in Melb recently. Only cost 250 for 4 small and 2 big ones, I had to polish them but I was expecting heaps more. May pay you to dig around for a back streets foundry like mine.

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