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Thread: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

  1. #101
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    Default Re: John Henry... transom biaxial taped

    Transom and pocket drive biaxial taped... just about done on the stern...



    Hey Pipefitter, thanks for the comments.... still your little blue Simmons is much prettier than this flats skiff....

    RodB
    Last edited by RodB; 04-14-2010 at 10:29 PM.

  2. #102
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    Default Re: John Henry... anchor locker and fuel tank platform fabrication

    The anchor locker will drain forward at the stem... it will contain room enough for an anchor, 150 yards of anchor line, some chain, and a large orange ball/float that is used to mark the anchor drop off point when you have to cast off quickly when you hook a tarpon.

    Here is the pattern via hot glue for the anchor locker bottom panel.



    And here she is... with both side panels and the bottom panel. The space outside of the actual anchor locker within this forward area will be used for floatation foam.

    [IMG][/IMG]

    Heres a photo of my fly fishing flats skiff anchor locker and front deck. The hatch has a solid latch and stainless hinges from Accon, the same company that makes the pop up cleat shown... The anchor locker hatch was glassed both sides with wrap around.... etc. The non-skid is ground walnut shells sprinkled in paint... The trolling motor bracket removes easily and leaves a nice clean deck for "no hang up" fly fishing. The anchor locker hatch hinges are from Accon ( http://www.acconmarine.com/ ) , and have a nice corner radius that makes if quite easy to mortise them with a 3/8" router bit.





    Heres the fuel tank support structure bonded... with two floors and the cleat mounted on the anchor locker bulkhead. All these panels will be triple coated with epoxy, with the actual top surface of the fuel tank shelf being glassed.



    Now we need to glass or epoxy coat all and install...



    More to come... we are trying to be done by mid May... the annual Tarpon fishing trip.

    Con't

    RodB
    Last edited by RodB; 04-17-2010 at 03:55 AM.

  3. #103
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    Default Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    That's going to be a sweet set up.If I get to build my boat,I was gonna do something like that with my forward anchor locker.How is the walnut shells holding up in the paint?Sounds like another tip I can use for my boat.
    http://bensboatblog.blogspot.com/
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  4. #104
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    Default Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    Ben2go...

    The ground walnut shells stand up great as a non-skid and are oh so easy to repair. The decks are glassed completely and that barrier is not disturbed in any way... because primer and paint applied atop the glassed decks is where the non-skid resides. We plan to use this same method with this present build.

    With only "wood particles" imbedded in the paint, its a very simple repair and "redo" procedure. Worse case scenario, if you ever decide to change to another type of non-skid, all you gotta do is sand down the decks (paint and wood particles) to the epoxy glassed surface...



    This closeup shows you the look and texture... I tested several grits of ground walnut shells before deciding on this grit. Heres a link to ground walnut shells: http://www.kramerindustriesonline.co...nut-shells.htm The 15 grit I used is still a bit too rough but smoothes down after some use. I guess a good test for roughness in non-skid is "can you kneel on it with your bare knees without a lot of discomfort"???? The ground walnut shells are only about $20 per 50 lb bag plus shipping.



    Application is easy... just tape off a pattern, roll on unthinned paint liberally to one section at a time with a 3/8" nap roller pad and immediately sprinkle on ground walnut shells until the surface is dry and covered with plenty of particles. I used a large mayonaise jar with the lid punctured about 25 times with holes about the size of a small BB. I had to fill the jar about 10 times to do the boat in these photos.



    Next, let it dry overnight... then blow off all the excess particles... and very lightly go over the surface with a 20 inch sanding board, I mean lightly... only to knock off any high points. Now apply two coats of thinned paint (15% thinned at least) to lock her down... When dry... your all done and can remove the tape. The thinned paint not only locks down the particles but also seals them nicely and does not fill in the textured surface enough to affect the non-skid effect. The areas outside of the taped non-skid areas are painted last with a brush. I also apply the thinned paint with a disposable 2" chip brush, moving along pretty quickly.





    Note the anchor locker filled with the essentials...




    Keel stringer installation is next, as the basis for the cockpit sole.

    RodB
    Last edited by RodB; 04-17-2010 at 03:59 AM.

  5. #105
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    Default Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    Thanks a lot for that tip.I appreciate it.I knew it was going to be trial and error,but that helps eliminate a lot of trial and a whole lot of error.
    http://bensboatblog.blogspot.com/
    When peeing over the side,remember,one hand for you,and one hand for the ship.
    Proud Member Of The Elite LPBC.

  6. #106
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    Default Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    Good luck with the non-skid...

    RodB

  7. #107
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    Default Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    Quote Originally Posted by RodB View Post
    Good luck with the non-skid...

    RodB
    Thanks.
    http://bensboatblog.blogspot.com/
    When peeing over the side,remember,one hand for you,and one hand for the ship.
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  8. #108
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    Default Re: John Henry... stringer/floor support installation

    Keel stringer fitting.... Here the prime tools to fit the keel stringer. I used a jigsaw to make the initiall corner cuts (as bottom shape of the stringer is arched with both corners angling up), but then used the power planer and the low angle block plane to get a good fit. Standard fitting procedure: orient the stringer with the straight edge up, and began fitting the bottom slowly until it settles right down into the shape of the boats inner keel surface...WHILE at the same time keeping the top straight edge of the stringer level fore and aft as you do all of this. It helps to use a compass to scribe a line along the bottom of the board that shows you a rough pattern of the surface the stringer needs to be fitted to.

    The keel stringer is African Mahogany. The rest of the stringers will be the left over materials from the hull panels (3/8" Okoume or Merranti") to keep the weight down. The Mahogany keel stringer weighted about 15 lbs.... the 3/8" ply stringers with gluing cleats on their top edges will be much lighter... ie., than using standard one-by mahogany throughout the stringer system.



    And here, edge glued in with scrap plywood strips crown stapled on the ends to hold her down till the epoxy cures...



    The close up... its amazing how much holding power the 1/4" crown staples have in holding the ends down firmly. You don't realize how strongly they hold till you try to remove them.



    Once held down in place, a brush was used to push epoxy into the joint so no voids exist. A nice fillet will be done after the epoxy hardens.



    Fast forward, the rest of the stringers tacked in place. One approach is to just get the stringers in place however you can... with their bottom bevels (radiiused outside bottom corner) in place against the bottom of the hull, and to then just apply small opposing sections of fillet intermittently to "tack" the stringer in place. Later, once the fillets are firm, its much easier to come back and apply complete fillets along the entire bottoms edges. Note: The center "keel" stringer sets the "floor level" in the boat... and everything else is based on this level main stringer. The other four stringers are all a bit "proud" of the keel stringer upon installation. The next step will be to plane the other stringers down to the level of the keel stringer for a nice level surface to install the cockpit floor panels.

    Stringer height dimensions were compiled by using a straight board with a level resting on its top... and then measuring the distance from the boards bottom edge to the hull at one foot intervals along a line where the stringer will be installed. Edited to add: You don't have to bother cutting the proper angle for positioning the stringer "plumb" along the bottom.... but just radius the outside lower corner of the stringer and it sets very nicely along the bottom of the hull and makes for a very nice filleted joint because of the epoxy being able to squeeze in all around the stringer bottom edges. Small blocks of wood cut at the right angle can be set on one side of the stringer and a long crown staple can be installed from the other side... going thru the stringer, the block and then the boat bottom. This holds the stringer firmly in a plumb position so you can fillet the opposite side of the blocks.



    Additionally, the small straight edge board along with the level resting on its top has a sharp bottom point on the chine area end... so... with the center end of the board resting on the keel stringer and the other sharp end touching the chine area with the level showing level...this allows transfer of the keel stringer height to the sides of the boat (where the floor will rest at the side of the hull... )

    If you record the stringer heights at say every foot along the length of the stringer position, you can plot these dimensions opposite a straight edge and have the right shape more or less...




    Con't

    RodB
    Last edited by RodB; 04-19-2010 at 09:28 PM.

  9. #109
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    Default Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    Here you can see complete filleting taking place. We will also be applying fiberglass tape to these fillets witin a couple of hours so that we can avoid a fillet fairing step and just have the tape epoxied in place quicker. None of this will ever show, so we can allow some "inperfect" joint work, aesthetically that is. All surfaces of the stringers will be triple coated with epoxy before floor panel installation.



    Note: we could have installed only the keel stringer and then triangular floors the entire length of the hull for a cockpit sole base, but running stringers fore and aft oriented 90 degrees to the grain of both the hull bottom and actual cockpit sole panels is stronger. This is a light boat so we are going for max strength in orientation of materials. I should mention that I consult my boats designer, Tracy Obrien, for all building/engineering advice to maximize strength vs weight throughout this building process.

    Continued...

    RodB
    Last edited by RodB; 04-19-2010 at 02:35 PM.

  10. #110
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    Default Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    Great progress and wonderful sharing of insight and technique.

    Thanks
    There are two kinds of boaters: those who have run aground, and those who lie about it.

  11. #111
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    Default Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    Rod, I notice there are no limber holes on those stringers, is the thought that any water will run back to the transom and collect there?

    Looking nice.

    I like the walnut shell idea too, thanks for the additional pictures. Accon is a great site, love those pop up cleats.

  12. #112
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    Default Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    Limber holes are coming next.... we didn't have the cockpit sole drains located exactly ... so we had to wait. A structural bulkhead will be installed immediately in front of the transom and it will butt up to the end of the 5 stringers. The stringers will have limber holes cut in their aft bottom corners and there will be a large limber hole in the center of the bulkhead evenly divided by the keel stringer. Water will drain to the back of the boat and hit this bulkhead, then draining downard along the bulkhead transversly to the centerline keel stringer limber hole. The bilge pump will be located just aft of the bulkhead on the centerline at the lowest point in the hull. Photos and progress will show all of this very soon...

    Con't

    RodB
    Last edited by RodB; 04-19-2010 at 06:44 PM.

  13. #113
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    Default Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    Stringer leveling setup... the four outside stringers are all leveled to the keel stringer. I use the nice hard board to sit on and easily slide along pushing with my feet to change positions. Initially I made sure the two mid panel stringers were level to the keel stringer, then checked the stringer closest to the chine. Just a few strokes of the low angle block plane and all three on that side are level. The chisel was used in lieu of a "chisel plane " to cut material from the stringers the last few inches closest to the forward fuel tank floor support, which cannot be cut with the standard low angle block plane.





    I started forward and worked my way towards the transom. Its easier for us older guys to sit and slide backwards rather than squat...



    Here the stringers are all level and filleted and the keel stringer has had biaxial tape applied to its fillets for max strength. Gluing cleats will be installed on the top edges of the four auxillary stringers to spread the force and help lessen the span the 3/8" Okoume floor panels will have to bear. Three eighths ply was selected as flooring instead of one half inch for weight savings. Note the black marks along the chine area... where the cockpit sole will hit the bottom/chine/side panel...



    Floor support cleats will be installed next... then the floor panels ...

    Con't

    RodB
    Last edited by RodB; 04-23-2010 at 12:26 AM.

  14. #114
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    Default Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    Looking good Rod....

  15. #115
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    Default Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    The ancillary stringers on each side of the keel stringer needed to have a gluing cleat attached to their top edge to decrease the "span" for the 3/8" floor panels and to spread the forces on the thin edge of the 3/8" ply. I used mahogany here and tried to make them as small as possible with a 7/8" wide surface. One of the best ways to install such materials with epoxy is to first "dry fit" the piece with screws, then apply the epoxy and use the screws as "indexes" that insure perfect positioning. All you gotta do is try once to hold a cleat against a line on a bulkhead... then try to hit it with a staple gun.... and have it move as the staple goes in... then you'll just take the time to dry fit the strip with screws first... and have a perfect install.

    Here are the floor gluing cleats dry fitted properly with one inch sheetrock screws. BTW, thank God for my Makita right angle cordless drill. Without it I would have had a much tougher time installing and removing the screws for this task because of the limited approach angle and space. The old right angle sure has saved my butt a bunch on boat repairs when space is limited.






    And the glue up with screws and some clamps added. Procedure: Each gluing cleat was removed while leaving the screws in the ply stringer with about 1/8" of the point still sticking out. Un-thickened epoxy was then applied to the strips and the top 3/4" of each stringer where the cleat would end up. Thickened epoxy was then applied to the strips and then they were placed in position with the screw tips indexing on their appropriate holes. With the cordless drill, each screw was then tightened down... with good squeeze out. The excess was wiped off for a clean glue up.



    Once more coat of epoxy goes on the stringers once the screw holes are filled...then a few limber holes... and then the floor panels will be fitted. Note the clamps were used when the screws needed a bit of help to close the joint uniformly.



    con't

    RodB
    Last edited by RodB; 04-23-2010 at 12:47 AM.

  16. #116
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    Default Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    So, heres the first floor panel in place... I'm sorry to say, but their is no easy way to get this done... just get her close as you can in initial measurements and cutting ... then trial and plane, trial and plane some more... repeat till fits right... The bevel on the bottom corner of each panel varies as you move from the bow to the stern. BTW, I can only rave about the old Lee Valley Veritas low angle block plane...what a work horse. I have had it for a few years and found it to be an absolutely fine low angle block plane.



    Half pattern for the second floor panel... this worked out ok. It still took me about 30 minutes to fit this panel even as close as I was after initial cutout.



    Second panel being fitted. The use of a scribe in fitting a panel like this is invaluable... and gives you a perfect fair line to follow parallel when planing the panel to fit. Usually I try to scribe this line about where I think the panel needs to be trimmed to. You have to be careful and not trim too much at a time as you do not want to come up short. Just trim in increments until she's perfect!



    You can set the distance from the edge of the panel to scribe... here the line is a obviously too far... but you get the idea.



    And here all the floor panels in place. Now some glassing the top surfaces and triple coating the bottom surfaces is in order...



    RodB
    Last edited by RodB; 04-25-2010 at 05:54 PM.

  17. #117
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    Default Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    Continuing on with the anchor locker. Here are the gluing cleats for the anchor locker bottom. They offer a solid platform for the bottom, however, the bottom had a nice "jam" fit without these cleats. The cleats do offer more gluing surface for the bottom and decrease cupping of the bottom. The screws were removed before glue up and their holes filled with thickened epoxy. The cleats were also coated with a couple of coats of epoxy before glue up.



    Here, the anchor locker is about complete, the hatch will come later after the decks are installed. After initial gluing with epoxy thickened with cabosil only, standard fillets were applied and then 9 oz fiberglass tape.



    RodB
    Last edited by RodB; 04-25-2010 at 06:03 PM.

  18. #118
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    Default Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    I really hate to bug you with a probably dumb question, but what the heck is a pocket drive?
    You've mentioned it several times. I'd hoped the answer might get revealed by the context, or did I miss it? No one else wondered so they all must know....

  19. #119
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    Default Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    The "pocket drive" is the recessed area located below the center of the transom in the stern. This "pocket" allows the water column to start upwards sooner thus allowing you to mount the outboard motor a few inches higher than if you had no pocket.

    The pocket drive allows reasonable shallow water running without a "tunnel" or a "jet pump" lower unit on an outboard.





    Hope this helps...

    RodB
    Last edited by RodB; 04-26-2010 at 01:28 AM.

  20. #120
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    Default Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    Ah! I see the point.
    Now I wonder if it'd make rather less turbulance if the leading edge were't that right angle? I guess that'd make it a sort of mini-tunnel.

  21. #121
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    Default Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    Here's a little more info on them and doing retrofits.It's an interesting read either way.

    http://www.cssims.com/25_bertram_prop_pocket.htm
    http://bensboatblog.blogspot.com/
    When peeing over the side,remember,one hand for you,and one hand for the ship.
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  22. #122
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    Default Re: John Henry... Floor glueup

    Heres the front cockpit sole panel dry fitted and ready for glueup... Note the vent holes that will allow air flow under the cockpit sole.



    And here she is glued up.... Boy I love those 25# bags of lead shot... they sure hold things down great... nothing like 100 lbs holding down a panel for glueup. No screws, no staples... no clamps... just lead...



    Port fillet...



    R
    Last edited by RodB; 04-30-2010 at 04:14 PM.

  23. #123
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    Default Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    Heres the rest of the cockpit sole dryfitted... ready for gluing.



    Next, fitting a bulkhead atop of it, its the front deck aft bulkhead.



    Forward bulkheads about to be completed...



    Cockpit sole completion continues...

    RodB
    Last edited by RodB; 04-30-2010 at 12:32 PM.

  24. #124
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    Default Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    Nice. Thanks for sharing.
    There are two kinds of boaters: those who have run aground, and those who lie about it.

  25. #125
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    Default Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    Good work.Looks really smooth and even.Shouldn't take much prep for paint.I couldn't tell from the pics.Did you run a thickened bead of epoxy, down each stringer, before laying the sole in?Is there plans available for this boat?I may have missed that.I have a lot of shallow lakes in my area and a flats boat would work great up here.I could toss the trolling motor and battery in favor of poling.
    http://bensboatblog.blogspot.com/
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  26. #126
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    Default Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    Good work.Looks really smooth and even.Shouldn't take much prep for paint.I couldn't tell from the pics.Did you run a thickened bead of epoxy, down each stringer, before laying the sole in?Is there plans available for this boat?I may have missed that.I have a lot of shallow lakes in my area and a flats boat would work great up here.I could toss the trolling motor and battery in favor of poling.
    All surfaces exposed to weather are glassed, and all surfaces not exposed to weather are at minimum double coated with epoxy, (thick coats). Glassed surfaces are sanded to a satin finish and should require just a little prep before painting.

    Thickened epoxy was applied to all stringer glue cleats in addition to the perimeter chine areas etc. Followup was nice fillets around the borders.

    This design was commissioned by us and we made a deal with Tracy Obrien that we would own the plans. We spent tons of time researching the "type" and incorporated the cutting edge features we found to be in most of the best flats boats like Maverick, Dolphin, etc. We are interested in technical "poling skiffs" not just any old boat. When you fish for Tarpon, Reds, and Specks etc... sight casting is much easier if you have a boat that is easy to move quickly and intercept a fish. A good poling skiff will always point into the wind naturally and is not too difficult to pole in winds over 20 mph with control. It should also pole quietly without hull slap. Weight is also an important factor and we have monitored that closely. We actually have figured out the weight of various thicknesses of panels glassed on both sides... per the square footage of our boat for weight calculations. We have weighted various elements before installation as we have progressed.

    Once we finish this boat and get some water time checking performance, poling characteristics, etc... we will probably consider working a deal with Mr Obrien and he can sell the plans. We expect similar performance to the top manufactured fiberglass boats but we think wood is better....

    Heres a shot of the main limber hole in the first bulkhead ahead of the transom... note pocket drive forward end in foreground plus the two chases, electrical and fuel hose...



    Getting ready to bond in the second floor panel, note butt block ply pieces...



    RodB
    Last edited by RodB; 05-02-2010 at 01:18 AM.

  27. #127
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    Default Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    Kool.Thanks for the info.I hope things go as planned on the water.I will be following closely.
    http://bensboatblog.blogspot.com/
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  28. #128
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    Default Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    Continuing with the cockpit sole... here getting ready for the second panel. Note the ply butt block shelfs... this 3/8" floor panel will not flex at all...



    Final floor panel location... note the side channels that will allow cockpit sole drains close to the side of the boat.



    Second floor panel in place bonded...



    Cockpit sole bonded in place... plus the aft bulkhead of the front deck...

    One half of the stern section of floor panels dry fitted...



    Butt block backing in joint... screws holding till epoxy cured.



    Cockpit sole all installed plus the aft bulkhead of the front deck. Structural fore and aft bulkheads from transom to first bulkhead in front of it... next.



    Con't

    RodB
    Last edited by RodB; 05-02-2010 at 01:16 AM.

  29. #129
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    Default Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    Looks really good Rod, I can't wait to see it all completed and painted. Good luck.

  30. #130
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    Default Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    If any thing happens at this point,you could hang it on the wall and have an interesting conversation piece.We all know that's not gonna happen.
    http://bensboatblog.blogspot.com/
    When peeing over the side,remember,one hand for you,and one hand for the ship.
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  31. #131
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    Default Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    Thanks for the comments guys...

    The fore and aft structural bulkheads at the transom being dry fitted. These bulkheads spread the force from the engine torque throughout the aft end of the hull. These bulkheads will be installed with biaxial tape for max strength. Everything ties in together when you have the transom, fore and aft bulkheads, the side panels, and lastly of course, the decks installed. This closed box system can withstand a high amount of stress from outboard engines... allowing a broader power selection in outboard engines. Note: This transom was built quite thick to allow for the recessed actuators for the trim tabs, thus the most forward part of the trasnsom is a single sheet of 3/4" marine ply, surrounded with internal studs as seen earlier in this thread. Only the actual recessed slots for the actuators are 3/4" thick, the rest of the transom is much thicker.

    [IMG][/IMG]







    Con't

    RodB
    Last edited by RodB; 05-05-2010 at 12:31 PM.

  32. #132
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    Default Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    bump

    r

  33. #133
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    Default Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    I see your bump and raise you two bumps.

    How are things progressing on the decking?
    http://bensboatblog.blogspot.com/
    When peeing over the side,remember,one hand for you,and one hand for the ship.
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  34. #134
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    Default Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    The sheer decks are difficult when installing the first strip because the hull side panel angle is changing throughout the last 6 feet at the bow. Therefore, the changing angle strips are pieced together as you go forward. Additionally, as you cut each strip, you need a total of four copies of each piece to fit the outside of the sheer at both sides, and the inside of the sheer, both sides. Once the initial beveled first strip is glued in place, the rest are much simpler square strips that are scarfed in place as you glue them in place.

    RodB

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    Egg Harbor Twp, NJ
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    Default Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    bump

  36. #136
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    Upstate, South Carolina,USA
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    Default Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    Hows progress?
    http://bensboatblog.blogspot.com/
    When peeing over the side,remember,one hand for you,and one hand for the ship.
    Proud Member Of The Elite LPBC.

  37. #137
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Dallas and points north
    Posts
    7,633

    Default Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    Took a week off... starting back tomorrow...

    Pics soon...

    RodB

  38. #138
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Tuckahoe
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    Default Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    Just a gentle nudge.
    Steve Martinsen

  39. #139
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    Nov 2008
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    Upstate, South Carolina,USA
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    Default Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    Quote Originally Posted by RodB View Post
    Took a week off... starting back tomorrow...

    Pics soon...

    RodB

    Great!I am looking forward to updates.
    http://bensboatblog.blogspot.com/
    When peeing over the side,remember,one hand for you,and one hand for the ship.
    Proud Member Of The Elite LPBC.

  40. #140
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Green Bay
    Posts
    873

    Default Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    As am I....nudge.

  41. #141
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    3

    Default Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    what happened?

  42. #142
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    Apr 2003
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    Dallas and points north
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    Default Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    Construction will resume within the next few days. The owner of this craft had other priorities for his cash... for the last two months but progress will begin again by next weekend. Supplies are on the way...

    I'm ready to finish this flats skiff...

    RodB

  43. #143
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    3

    Smile Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    been enjoying this thread...thanks

  44. #144
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    Upstate, South Carolina,USA
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    1,077

    Default Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    I thought it got lost during the forum upgrade.Good to know it's here and the project will be back on track.
    http://bensboatblog.blogspot.com/
    When peeing over the side,remember,one hand for you,and one hand for the ship.
    Proud Member Of The Elite LPBC.

  45. #145
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Dallas and points north
    Posts
    7,633

    Default Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    bump.... sorry for the delay... lots of other things happening... progress will commence soon..

    Rod

  46. #146
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Upstate, South Carolina,USA
    Posts
    1,077

    Default Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    Cool deal.I been in the mix with life myself.Glad to know the build hasn't been side lined.
    http://bensboatblog.blogspot.com/
    When peeing over the side,remember,one hand for you,and one hand for the ship.
    Proud Member Of The Elite LPBC.

  47. #147
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Dallas and points north
    Posts
    7,633

    Default Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    When the weather turns bad... construction will commence...

    R

  48. #148
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Fiddletown, on Vineyard Lane
    Posts
    3,436

    Default Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    My next build is going to be with 4mm ply--some sort of double paddle canoe. Can a scarf attachment work on ply that thin?

  49. #149
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Upstate, South Carolina,USA
    Posts
    1,077

    Default Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    I have scarfed 1/4 inch before.It is very tedious.I did it using a sanding block.The panels were only 18 inches wide.It was a double ended double paddle canoe.Just something I threw together for a weekend trip.
    http://bensboatblog.blogspot.com/
    When peeing over the side,remember,one hand for you,and one hand for the ship.
    Proud Member Of The Elite LPBC.

  50. #150
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Dallas and points north
    Posts
    7,633

    Default Re: John Henry... Easy scarfing and glueup

    My next build is going to be with 4mm ply--some sort of double paddle canoe. Can a scarf attachment work on ply that thin?
    Yes, the John Henry planer scarfer attachment works fine with 4mm... he even includes spacers for different thicknesses of ply...

    We began construction again today... we both are committed to completion in the next 2-3 months... pics posted tomorrow...

    RodB

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