Briggs Powered Clinker Double Ender

[pcford]

Fine, fine use of technology

starting
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tu9tz...eature=related
at speed
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bmNEOeBtamc&NR=1

[wizbang 13]

my friend has a briggs in his poulsbo boat. worse p.o.s. than a seagull .has a dry muffler that , I swear, makes it even louder.like hooking a trombone to yer ''muffeler"

[Tom Robb]

Worse than a Seagull? Wow!

[pcford]

my friend has a briggs in his poulsbo boat. worse p.o.s. than a seagull .has a dry muffler that , I swear, makes it even louder.like hooking a trombone to yer ''muffeler"

Briggs Stratton, Wisconsin and other air-cooled engines were standard in Poulsbo boats. Very highly regarded boats.

[PeterSibley]

I really can't see why decent muffler can't be fitted ,one off a motorcycle should work well .Some bikes are very quiet and still have aircooled motors .

[Breakaway]

There's also this option:

[chainyank]

Who wouldn't fall in love with a OB motor with a roll bar!?

[flyinwall]

id love to have that boat but id have to put a diesel motor in it

[Lew Barrett]

Liberty Bay?

[jclays]

I have one of those Briggs and Stratton outboards pictured above. Very good outboard. Use it on my skiff in the marina and also powers my inflatable shore boat. Completly air cooled, has forward and reverse gear, 3 gallon gas tank. They tell you for freshwater use only. Ive used mine in the ocean for 5 years now with no problems. Just keep her clean. No water pumps or anywhere for water to get into. The shop that tunes her for me suppplies and repairs industrial motors and mowers he too runs one of these outboards. He said that the Briggs and Stratton fresh water use disclaimer is so that Briggs doesnt have to deal with salt water corrosion for people that dont take care of things. The case prop and the misc metal pieces hanging around. She kinda sounds like a lawn mower. Briggs claims that it is not a converted mower but a true outboard by design. She runs great and is dependable like all their other motors. At 699.99 complete a great price on a new outboard.

[John A. Campbell]

Fine, fine use of technology

starting
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tu9tz...eature=related
at speed
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bmNEOeBtamc&NR=1

Have been trying to determine if he has a transmission coupled to the engine.....kinda hard for me to tell.....and a small marine transmission coupled to a 9 hp Honda (for example) would be a lot cheaper than diesel or electric for my Victor Slocum......around $2200 for the engine & tranny set purchased new.....plus the Honda is really quiet and could be made even quieter with a good muffler......and it will work just fine at a 9 degree shaft angle.....and will save lots of weight compared to electric.....and, and...come on Denny Wolfe...tell me where I'm going wrong ! !

[John A. Campbell]

Have been trying to determine if he has a transmission coupled to the engine.....kinda hard for me to tell.....and a small marine transmission coupled to a 9 hp Honda (for example) would be a lot cheaper than diesel or electric for my Victor Slocum......around $2200 for the engine & tranny set purchased new.....plus the Honda is really quiet and could be made even quieter with a good muffler......and it will work just fine at a 9 degree shaft angle.....and will save lots of weight compared to electric.....and, and...come on Denny Wolfe...tell me where I'm going wrong ! !

Also, someone tell me why it would be necessary to attach the tranny to a bell housing on the engine as long as the engine output shaft and tranny input shaft were coupled together on exactly the same plane using a metal (aluminum) mounting assembly with a lovejoy coupling (spider type rubber coupling) between the engine and the tranny? A bell housing for the engine would have to be custom made at a machine shop and there goes the price....way up ! Wouldn't the Lovejoy coupling prevent "gear box rattle"? By the way, the shaft angle for the V.S. is 10 degrees...not 9...and Honda says this is fine...no problem.

[McManusBoatWorks]

Does anyone have a clue who the manufacturer of the drive train for the inboard briggs might be? I have been studying on how to link up a briggs for a while now and was hoping I would run across a factory setup.

[deltabrent]

Any idea where this is filmed? And any idea what model boat that is?

[John A. Campbell]

Does anyone have a clue who the manufacturer of the drive train for the inboard briggs might be? I have been studying on how to link up a briggs for a while now and was hoping I would run across a factory setup.

I have done a lot of research including many phone calls and the closest I can find to a "factory setup" using air-cooled 1-cylinder engines is the so-called "mud bug" engine used down in the swamps of Louisiana.....and, come to think of it, I believe they were V-Twin engines at that.....like the Honda GX-610 16 hp unit. As I recall, the mudbug engine did have a bell housing between the engine and transmission but I don't see why a Honda GX-270 (8 hp) coupled to a ZF 10M marine transmission through a Lovejoy spider coupling wouldn't work as long as the engine and transmission were perfectly aligned on the same sturdy steel mounting. The ZF 10M sells for $1153 and the GX-270 at around $800 , then add the coupling and mounting assembly and I believe $2200 would be real close for the total. The Hondas are quiet and if the exhaust was routed out through the transom or at least through the side of the hull, I believe it would be very quiet as far as internal combustion engines go. The GX-270 weighs 55 lbs and the ZF 10M weighs 23.....add the steel (or aluminum) mounting assembly and you're looking at a power plant that totals around 100 pounds or less ....that ain't too bad for a small launch.......just some thoughts and I welcome comments. One thing's for sure.....boat's gotta have reverse!

[McManusBoatWorks]

Thanks for the intel John. I will look into the ideas you have presented. I have no experience with small trannys and was not even sure that there were any available other than through the high priced Yanmar or Westerbeke route.

I myself was impressed with the controllable pitch prop on the old marine engine featured in the most recent Wooden Boat mag. It is a interesting that you could get one of these things back in 1890 but you can not find one today.

But then again the unit on that double ender with the Briggs looks like it might be a controllable pitch unit.

[wizbang 13]

In my friends briggs / poulsbo boat , the engine is hinged fwd, there is a 3'lever one pulls to lift the back of the engine, which tightens a small v belt.Pretty slick but only 5 hp. No reverse, but I taught them to scull wackbards.

[Dave Wright]

I really can't see why decent muffler can't be fitted ,one off a motorcycle should work well .Some bikes are very quiet and still have aircooled motors .

About 40 yeras ago I saw a "letters to the editor" interchange in a boating magazine about silencing an air cooled Briggs and Stratton installation. The penultimate letter was from the then CEO of Briggs, he pointed out that there was simply too much mechanical noise from the moving parts in aircooled Briggs engines. From his point of view, muffling the exhaust was never going to make the mechanical racket tolerable in a small skiff.

[Candyfloss]

In the video, when the guy sticks his camera over the side to look at the exhaust, the sound is only a light chuff-chuff. Back on the boat.....

If he had a transmission, why turn the motor off to attend to his mooring lines? There was a lever of some sort at the back of the motor, but nothing that looks like a bell housing. The prop shaft seems direct coupled to the engine shaft. There's got to be a thrust bearing there somewhere. In the stern gland?

[pcford]

About 40 yeras ago I saw a "letters to the editor" interchange in a boating magazine about silencing an air cooled Briggs and Stratton installation. The penultimate letter was from the then CEO of Briggs, he pointed out that there was simply too much mechanical noise from the moving parts in aircooled Briggs engines. From his point of view, muffling the exhaust was never going to make the mechanical racket tolerable in a small skiff.

Were you thinking of the note in the Mariners' Catalog from a Briggs or Stratton regarding their engines used as marine engines? My recollection is totally contrary to your memory. Air-cooled engines were quite common in the Depression years. Available and cheap...and I recall the B&S representative writing that he liked the sound.

By the way...regarding transmissions etc. Some had transmissions. Some did not. Just direct drive. Kill the engine when you are there. Also, I recall that some did not have sealed shaft logs...the shaft log wood came above the waterline. Lignum vitae was used as a bearing.

[McManusBoatWorks]

I really appreciate all the input on how we might approach using a Briggs or Honda type 4 stroke in a small boat application

I dont know about you guys but it frustrates me to build a skiff that I can sell for maybe $2000 and then have to spend another $2000 to power it. Who is making money on this deal?

I would like to see a design competition on the use of a $300 Briggs installed inboard a 12-14 footer. It would drop the cost of a powered skiff from $4000 to maybe $2500. I can sell those much easier.

Anyone interested in a design competition?

[McManusBoatWorks]

With a design competition in mind.

A couple of concepts I have been considering. Have any of you guys seen or tried these approaches:

1. The Centrifugal Clutch. Instead of hinging the engine just install a centrifugal clutch. A typical go-cart engine in the 5hp range sells for $300 including the clutch. If you want more power you can get a heavy duty clutch good for up to 13 hp at for only $65 bucks at Northern Tool. http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...fugal%20clutch

2. Another concept might be to adapt the drive system off a front tine tiller. They are belt drive with an idler pulley that engages the belt. And it actually has a reverse. It is a neat trick. A bit slow turning in reverse but it possibly could be adapted with different size pulleys.

[donald branscom]

Do a search for HONDA INBOARD on this forum.

The kit to which you refer used to be sold at hardware stores in the USA.

[donald branscom]

With a design competition in mind.

A couple of concepts I have been considering. Have any of you guys seen or tried these approaches:

1. The Centrifugal Clutch. Instead of hinging the engine just install a centrifugal clutch. A typical go-cart engine in the 5hp range sells for $300 including the clutch. If you want more power you can get a heavy duty clutch good for up to 13 hp at for only $65 bucks at Northern Tool. http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...fugal%20clutch

2. Another concept might be to adapt the drive system off a front tine tiller. They are belt drive with an idler pulley that engages the belt. And it actually has a reverse. It is a neat trick. A bit slow turning in reverse but it possibly could be adapted with different size pulleys.

You can just buy a HONDA EX160 with 2:1 gear reduction and centrifugal clutch built in. I did.

[donald branscom]

This is the system I built. It is air cooled and has its own fan.
HONDA EX160 inboard with 2:1 gear reduction and clutch.
Almost all outboard engines are approximately 2:1 reduction.

The boat

[John A. Campbell]

Also, someone tell me why it would be necessary to attach the tranny to a bell housing on the engine as long as the engine output shaft and tranny input shaft were coupled together on exactly the same plane using a metal (aluminum) mounting assembly with a lovejoy coupling (spider type rubber coupling) between the engine and the tranny? A bell housing for the engine would have to be custom made at a machine shop and there goes the price....way up ! Wouldn't the Lovejoy coupling prevent "gear box rattle"? By the way, the shaft angle for the V.S. is 10 degrees...not 9...and Honda says this is fine...no problem.

In further research on the Honda GX270, a fellow at Lightbourn Equipment Co. in Dallas tells me that the idling speed of this engine is 1200 RPM + or - 100 RPM and any attempt at reducing this below around 1000 RPM results in a "crappy running engine" but another fellow at Plano Power Products in Plano, TX says "that's B.S. and I'm going to get a GX270 serviced and checked out with a tachometer and let you know something on this". The ZF 10M marine transmission "does not like to shift at input RPM of 1000 or more and at that speed the life of the tranny is questionable".....the ideal shifting RPM is around 500 to 750. and that's from 3 different sources on the ZF product line. Also, the ZF 10M needs to work with an engine turning in the counter clockwise direction as viewed looking at the aft end of the engine (looking at the output shaft). The GX270 is available with a centrifugal clutch with a built in 2:1 reduction using a chain drive so the output direction is still counter clockwise which is what the ZF 10M wants to see and since the 10M's reduction is also 2:1, the prop RPM at 3000 RPM (optimum for the GX270) is 750.

I don't know, fellows.....the electric inboard system is looking more and more like the best way to go....but somehow the sound of a small engine putting along is really appealing...that little "putt putt" launch that I hear every year at the Woodenboat Show at Mystic Seaport really is music to my ears. I do know this....if I could find a new 6 hp Palmer Baby Huskie, I believe I'd kill for it!

[Dave Wright]

Were you thinking of the note in the Mariners' Catalog from a Briggs or Stratton regarding their engines used as marine engines? My recollection is totally contrary to your memory. Air-cooled engines were quite common in the Depression years. Available and cheap...and I recall the B&S representative writing that he liked the sound. ....

When I was a kid I often thought of putting a lawnmower engine in a boat, so I'm not discounting the idea; it's appealing on a number of levels. The noise factor has always bothered me though. Later in life I had occasion to enter gas turbine engine rooms and always used ear plugs AND ear muffs together. Some of my colleagues entered without ear protection, as if it was the thing to do, and no big deal. Now I'm glad I protected my ears and I wouldn't want to sit in a small launch all afternoon with a one cylinder Briggs banging away.

But.... the thought of putting a simple 200 dollar engine in a small boat still has lot's of appeal to me.

The notes I was thinking of (if I recall correctly, and if my memory isn't completely screwed up, which is happening more and more frequently) appeared on a page that also discussed gasoline tank resistance strip fuel transmitters, and the reason we don't commonly have gasoline fuel tank explosions form these crude and potentially sparking devices. But that's another story, and I don't know right now which box of notes it might be found in.

I'm glad you mentioned the Mariners Catalog article (Vol 2 1974) it was a good one, and has 7 or 8 pages on small boat inboards. That issue I still have, and I've scanned the Briggs letter below.

I note that the writer says "My father, our Chairman has a tender which over the years has been powered by a variety of our engines." That gives me the thought that the Chairman may have commented on the subject at some time, but who knows.

The writer goes on to address exhaust noise, engine mechanical noise, and equipment mechanical noise, and the possibility of engine enclosures.

A good little article, thanks for recalling it:

[John A. Campbell]

With a design competition in mind.

A couple of concepts I have been considering. Have any of you guys seen or tried these approaches:

1. The Centrifugal Clutch. Instead of hinging the engine just install a centrifugal clutch. A typical go-cart engine in the 5hp range sells for $300 including the clutch. If you want more power you can get a heavy duty clutch good for up to 13 hp at for only $65 bucks at Northern Tool. http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...fugal%20clutch

2. Another concept might be to adapt the drive system off a front tine tiller. They are belt drive with an idler pulley that engages the belt. And it actually has a reverse. It is a neat trick. A bit slow turning in reverse but it possibly could be adapted with different size pulleys.

I did a little research on the front tine tiller arrangement some time ago and as I recall they used a small Briggs engine that had a little auxillary output shaft that turned in the opposite direction from the main shaft and that's how they were able to get the reverse direction.....not a bad idea but I believe they were only available in 5 hp which would most likely be okay for most small boat applications. We need to check this out further.

[McManusBoatWorks]

Wow. I am impressed. You guys have some really good ideas.

I have been pondering on the Briggs ideas for a long time and within a few hours I have a whole new conception of how to approach the challenge.

Donald, you obviously have spent a lot of quality time pursuing this plan. I like the offset motor idea. On a small launch why not put the motor to one side giving you clear access bow and stearn down the center of the boat. Underway the pilot would be sitting to the opposite side and would offset the engine weight. How did you exit the hull and prevent overheating of the hull skin?

John you clearly have some good contacts. I spent some time last night researching the ZF 10M and it opened my eyes. Call me ignorant but I have been dealing with Chevys and Fords with Paragons since I was a kid and had no exposure to the SAE bell housing configuration. I have a Worsterbeke that is lacking a tranny and had no idea how to find one. The ZF is a great idea for the 20-40hp range. What a great lead. Thanks.

John. On the tiller idea. I am getting a bit old but if I remember the reverse on my cheapy tiller ran off the backside of the belt and not a seperate shaft but I like your approach better. I have to run down to Home Depot and take a look at their tillers.

It is going to take some time to absorb all the info you all have shared.

Thanks. I would like to see us continue with this concept.

[McManusBoatWorks]

Donald. I found your series from a few years ago and it was quite informative. It seems that the community was also very excited about the concept

I presume that you now have some operation time under your belt and wonder if you have any lessons learned to share?

How did the steel shaft work out?

Any trouble with alignment of the cutlass and double pillar block bearings? Do you now think you might have been better off with only one inboard bearing plus the cutlass?

Any problems with heat where the exhaust exits the hull?

Any issues with thrust

[PeterSibley]

My 2c worth and no ,I haven't tried to use it on a boat !

I have very interesting transmission sitting around in my shed off a rider mower .It's essentially 2 discs running at right angles to each other , one driven by the engine .The driven disc runs on a splined shaft and is free to move left or right , controlled by a lever .The driven disc's edge bears on the flat face of the second disc ,both edge and face have a bonded on coating to aid drive/grip .

By varying the position of the driven disc (on the splined shafted ) L or R the speed of the second shaft and disc can be varied and also reversed ...there is also a neutral in the middle where a deten lifts the driven wheel away from the surface .

Does anyone have any idea what I was attempting to describe ??

[Dave Wright]

A variable speed reversing transmission.

[Dave Wright]

Just a thought, why go to the bother of putting reverse in a small, open launch if simplicity and low cost are the underlying factors in the effort in the first place.

Didn't Robb White eventually remove the reverse set up he fashioned for his tunnel hull skiff?

[ssor]

My 2c worth and no ,I haven't tried to use it on a boat !

I have very interesting transmission sitting around in my shed off a rider mower .It's essentially 2 discs running at right angles to each other , one driven by the engine .The driven disc runs on a splined shaft and is free to move left or right , controlled by a lever .The driven disc's edge bears on the flat face of the second disc ,both edge and face have a bonded on coating to aid drive/grip .

By varying the position of the driven disc (on the splined shafted ) L or R the speed of the second shaft and disc can be varied and also reversed ...there is also a neutral in the middle where a deten lifts the driven wheel away from the surface .

There was a system like that on the Ariens Mowers in the '70's. It would slow to a stop before changing direction. It was very reliable I never had the need to repair one.

Does anyone have any idea what I was attempting to describe ??

There was a system like that on the Ariens Mowers in the '70's. it would slow to a stop before changing direction. I never had call to repair one.

[John A. Campbell]

My 2c worth and no ,I haven't tried to use it on a boat !

I have very interesting transmission sitting around in my shed off a rider mower .It's essentially 2 discs running at right angles to each other , one driven by the engine .The driven disc runs on a splined shaft and is free to move left or right , controlled by a lever .The driven disc's edge bears on the flat face of the second disc ,both edge and face have a bonded on coating to aid drive/grip .

By varying the position of the driven disc (on the splined shafted ) L or R the speed of the second shaft and disc can be varied and also reversed ...there is also a neutral in the middle where a deten lifts the driven wheel away from the surface .

Does anyone have any idea what I was attempting to describe ??

It could very likely be off of a Comet "Snapper" riding mower....I had one from around 1976 to 1993...had a Briggs 5 hp engine....you could shift it on the run with no problem....a really good product.

My tech friend at Plano Power Products called and said the lowest the Honda GX270 will idle is 900 RPM which is too high for the ZF 10M transmission to shift. The GX270 is also available with centrifugal clutch and 2:1 reduction via a pair of sprockets and a chain drive. He is FAXing me a drawing and I'm gonna see if the output sprocket could be changed out to same size as input sprocket resulting in no RPM reduction at the output of the clutch and therefore at the prop (through the 2:1 ZF 10M) we'd get 1500 RPM at the speed at which the GX270 is happiest (3000)......so a bit more research is in order.

[ssor]

Probably with a fairly heavy flywheel these small engines could be throttled down to idle at a lower speed. Vee belts give a smoother and quieter drive train than you can get with roller chain.

[John A. Campbell]

Just a thought, why go to the bother of putting reverse in a small, open launch if simplicity and low cost are the underlying factors in the effort in the first place.

Didn't Robb White eventually remove the reverse set up he fashioned for his tunnel hull skiff?

Dave, I think operating a boat without reverse would be okay as long as lake conditions were ideal and the boat launching areas were not overly crowded. I think having reverse adds a lot of manueverability when you're coming in to shore during a sudden blow of wind or when you've got a bunch of bass boats pulled in to shore waiting their turn for the ramp.....a pair of oars in that scenario does not sound so good. In my opinion, reverse gear is as important as forward and I wouldn't ever consider operating my "Victor Slocum" without it......just my 2 cents worth.

[John A. Campbell]

With a design competition in mind.

A couple of concepts I have been considering. Have any of you guys seen or tried these approaches:

1. The Centrifugal Clutch. Instead of hinging the engine just install a centrifugal clutch. A typical go-cart engine in the 5hp range sells for $300 including the clutch. If you want more power you can get a heavy duty clutch good for up to 13 hp at for only $65 bucks at Northern Tool. http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...fugal%20clutch

2. Another concept might be to adapt the drive system off a front tine tiller. They are belt drive with an idler pulley that engages the belt. And it actually has a reverse. It is a neat trick. A bit slow turning in reverse but it possibly could be adapted with different size pulleys.

I think I'll try to get a drawing of that clutch on Northern Tools web site.....to see how it would mount on the Honda GX20 just in case the GX270 clutch/2:1 reduction model cannot be changed to full RPM as described above. I THINK WE NEED TO RUN THIS SMALL CHEAP INBOARD IDEA AS FAR OUT AS WE CAN GET IT........LET'S NOT GIVE UP ON IT!

[WoodboatCoop]

This is a subject that I have been looking at for a while. I want to build a 18ft crab skiff with a small inboard motor. I work for a tractor dealership that sells Kubota. A kubota 722 is a 3cyl diesel that I plan to use. Have stopped at several marinas on the bay in Va and have been told that a small zf trans out of a sailboat will be the ticket. Was told rotation of input didn't matter. You would adjust the shifter to make the rotation you needed. It must have reverse for my peace of mind. The diesel would idle slow to allow easy shifting and getting around in the shallows. Any other ideas would be appreciated. Also with this economy. used parts might be cheap to come by.

[StevenBauer]

Wouldn't a Kitchen rudder take care of the need for reverse?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kitchen_rudder




Steven

[Monkey Butler]

I wonder if a snowmobile might provide a good source for parts to tinker with? Here are a couple of parts diagrams to get you thinking:





The above parts are for a 1999 Polaris 600RMK but there ar hundreds of models out there with a reverse chain case. With spring approaching there should be plenty of buys on parts sleds. Let me know if you want a description of how these drivetrains actually function.

Here is the link to a website with online parts fiche:

http://www.ronniesmailorder.com/fich...es&mfg=Polaris

Steve P.

[McManusBoatWorks]

I have been pondering the Kitchen rudder too. Seems there was a Wooden Boat article on it a while back. The boat could spin on a dime. It is a bit complicated to fabricate but is are real neat trick. My problem with it is down here on the Tennessee River we have lots of grass that would hang up in the unit. For guys around the coast or up North it might be an excellent solution.

[McManusBoatWorks]

I really like the fly wheel idea. One of you guys commented on the putt-putt-putt of the old days. That was the single lunger with a huge flywheel. One trip through the marina with an idled down briggs hammering out a Harley tune would sell a pretty little launch in a heart beat.

[Bob Triggs]

"Pretty is as pretty does".

[Philip Maynard]

I've previously posted this, OHH50 5hp 4 stroke under the seat. 7x4 prop, direct drive. Tecumseh engineering said the crankshaft bearings can handle the thrust. I like it because it's out of the way and no outboard hanging off the back, but it's noisy at 1/2 - full throttle. At idle it's quiet and will still push it better than 3 knots. I put a small tractor muffler in it but that did not seem to make much difference. What I'm interested in is the feathering prop he seems to be using. The other item is if someone can come up with a cheap folding prop for this type direct drive 5hp installation. I'm thinking of simple flat stock SS blades twisted with a simple hub - it doesn't have to be super efficient or pretty. Even dragging the prop this boat will plane under sail under the right conditions.

[goodbasil]

About 15 years ago there was a store having a going out of business sale. (I can't even remember what business they were in.) Anyway they had over 2 dozen new B&S engines for sale. $50-- ea. And they ran on Kerosene. About 3-4 hp I think. Don't know what they were used for. Kerosene engines were once common. Remember the Kermath Pup? (Sir Alex Rose's, My Lively Lady.)

Always thought I'd like a kerosene engine in a boat.

[gene1605]

A lot of intresting ideas here, let me offer 1 more.
for a offset engine design why not use a outboard lower end, just add a shaft and prop

[McManusBoatWorks]

I did not know the engine would take the thrust. Thats a new one. Thats where assumptions will get ya. I wonder if you could direct couple the output shaft directly to the prop shaft simply with a piece of heavy duty rubber hose clamped to each. I am thinking some of that high dollar green stripe stuff. A curse when working with it cause it is so stiff. Make that stiffness pay for a change. Just make sure you get the wire spiral correctly oriented so it tightens with the rotation and does not unravel over time.

If you need reverse then adapt the Kitchen Rudder idea. If you have the prop far back you might even get away with a simpler version like a jet ski reverse that piviots up out of the water

So here all your good ideas pulled into one. Take the Honda EX160 that Donald recommended (has the 2-1 reduction and the wet centrifugal clutch), rubber mount the engine to tone down the vibration. Allow the engine to take the torque and couple it directly to the output shaft (stainless steel shaft for me). Consider coupling the engine via a heavy rubber hose slipped and clamped onto the shafts to eliminate alignment problems and vibration.

Variants would include:

If you need reverse consider the Kitchen Rudder or use a variant of the jet ski reverse.

If you are concerned about engine thrust simply add a single inboard pillar block bearing to support the shaft and take the thrust.

[PeterSibley]

I wouldn't direct mount , the thrust is all in the wrong place , if this is cheap and cheerful installation , turn the end ofthe shaft to fit a trailer stub housing ...a cheap thrust setup ,then belt drive the shaft , you would want a 3 to 1 reduction anyway .

[PeterSibley]

Wouldn't a Kitchen rudder take care of the need for reverse?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kitchen_rudder




Steven

Thank you Steven ! I do love this place .