Safest way to go from tree to stock?

[marshcat]

I would like to convert some blowdown holly and maple from my property into short (16-20") and small (1x1, 1x2, 1x3) stock. I don't have a bandsaw or planer. I do have a chainsaw, tablesaw, and circular saw.

I was thinking about creating one flat (as possible) side with my chainsaw, then using the tablesaw to square the rest up.

Is there a better technique? Do I need to watch for anything other than kickback on the table saw?

Not sure if this is the right spot to post - I did not want to post in the bilge, as not everyone goes down there.

Thanks.

[Paul Pless]

into short (16-20")

why so short?

[ssor]

Nail a 2x to the round and use that to guide your chainsaw. Then square it up by moving the 2x Then you can take it to the table saw and rip it. Somewher along the line you will need the thickness planer or a good hand plane.

[Brian Palmer]

You could also split out the rough stock you need and then trim to size on the table saw.

Brian

[marshcat]

why so short?

Three reasons:

1. I am making a few small boxes that do not require larger lumber.
2. I have tried to make longer cuts with my chainsaw, and even with chain teeth sharpened for ripping it is no fun.
3. The holly I have is pretty gnarled, so the longest straight piece is about 20".

I would just get some from a mill, but this wood has some sentimental value.

I'll see how it splits first, then try the chainsaw/2x guide method if necessary.

Thanks for the quick responses.

[paladin]

I would save the straight, clear holly for a later project if possible, stored near the ceiling in a garage in the largest possible size/configuration......that is, if you ever expect to build a boat around 20-25 feet....

[Rob Stokes, N. Vancouver]

I'd strongly suggest you find a way to borrow some bandsaw time. I mill lumber with a chainsaw, and anything this short is going to cause problems as the wood is going to move all over the place on you.

But... if you're bound and determined to do it this way, build a cradle, set the pieces in them so that they're laying down, butt towards you, and and cut them lengthwise so that the saw makes noodles. This will give you your straightest cut. To make the actual cut, set the falling dawgs of the saw into the log first (tip of the bar will be high in the air - then lower the tip) so that when the chain contacts it, the piece does not come back at you.

Holly's a funny wood in that when "home milling" the nice white wood turns blue very quickly. Or at least it can. It also checks badly and rapidly.

The blue is a fungus and the only way I know of of having a chance at white wood, is to REALLY seal the ends the minute it's cut, mill it fast and get it into a "kiln" quickly. We used an old lab-style incubator as a kiln and it worked well

I'm sure others will have ideas for preventing blue and I look forward to hearing them

Good luck!

[Bob Smalser]

I'm sure others will have ideas for preventing blue and I look forward to hearing them

Sorry, no. All my holly ends up looking like blue crap, regardless of what I do to it. And ends up in the shop rather than the house.



It's one of those woods that has to go from tree to mill to kiln within 72 hours.

[marshcat]

Thanks guys for the info. If more seasoned people can't keep the holly fungus away, I am not sure that I can; especially because my 'kiln' is just the top of the barn. Virginia Tech has some free plans for a simple solar kiln here, but I don't have time for another project right now.

I will still give it a try with the maple.

Thanks again.

[Excalibur]

One thing you do need to consider is nails. They wind up buried in trees in the darndest places. Heck in some places in Virginia, trees are still full of Civil War lead! Wear eye protection This is certainly NOT a bilge question.

[Tom Hoffman]

With logs the size that you are talking about. Go to Woodmizer.com and call them and ask for a customer of theirs in your local area. Most likely, he will be willing for a very reasonable amount to custom saw the logs for you. Here in Iowa, we pay about 20 cents per bd ft. for sawing and another for kiln drying. They bring the mill right to your location or you can bring ths logs to them. Very nice way to get good wood cut custom.

http://woodmizer.com/corporate/corporate.aspx

They use to have some kind of agreement with the mill owners to demo the product for potential customers.

I have one only 8 miles away. I have ordered 1X8 4 quarter full for siding out of white oak for spring delivery. 66Cents per square foot. He provides the wood. Air dried not kiln dried.

I bought native white pine from him this summer full dimension 2X6 14' or longer for $1.50 each. Right out of the saw. He delivered them.

[marshcat]

Heck in some places in Virginia, trees are still full of Civil War lead!

Good point, although this holly and maple I have can't be more than about 50 years old, as it comes from an area that was clearcut quite awhile ago. Barbwire is probably more of a problem.

I do have a @60ft oak growing up through a wagon or cannon wheel hoop. You can pick up the hoop and move it around, but it won't come out of the woods unless the tree comes down. We had at least one big battle near here, as well as both sides just passing through.

I'll also look for a local woodmizer owner.

Thanks.

[BarnacleGrim]

I tried, as an experiment, to get a plank out of a goatwillow log using a chainsaw. By the time I got to my anemic little table saw I gave up because it just wouldn't be worthwhile putting my fingers that close to the blade wrestling the stringy piece of useless wood.

I'm sure it could be done with a good log and a good quality table saw or maybe a jointer, but it's tiring and slow.