A day of fixtures and fittings....amazing how long these take.... Next job is fairleads and a couple of pad eyes in the locker to stop the anchor moving around.
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Type: Posts; User: biglad
A day of fixtures and fittings....amazing how long these take.... Next job is fairleads and a couple of pad eyes in the locker to stop the anchor moving around.
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Next job is the fairleads and the bow roller. I did have holes drilled for the bow roller, but it brought the anchor quite close to the bow when lowering/raising. I've filled them in and will move it...
Been fitting the hardware- I think (hope!) it's going OK so far.
I did the drilling over size holes and re drilled for the M8 bolts. I added a slurry of epoxy to the bolts and fitted them using a...
Ken- I agree with you. It's only worth going to the effort of doing a proper job (No2 & 3 above) of attaching hardware if what you're attaching it to can take the load being asked of it. Similarly ,...
I didn't use dynel on my boat, just a glass cloth. On areas where I didn't want to achieve a smooth surface I just took my time applying the epoxy. I found it too easy to think there isn't enough on...
Totally agree that the Gougeons want to sell epoxy. I agree that the drill, fill and drill is a bit fussy. I have done 4 holes tonight this way and does need care taken to avoid air traps, making...
I've a separate thread on my little outboard cruiser I've been building (Selway Fisher Clyde 18), and I'm now fitting hardware to it. Last night I was reading the Gougeon brothers document online...
I've got 100mm bolts to go through the larger stainless plate and the timber that's on top of the deck, and these will have washers and nuts fitted from under the deck.
I plan to epoxy all the...
I've got a little assembly made to get the fixing bolts for the samson post outboard a bit.
I'm thinking to epoxy the stainless plate to the top of the oak piece and then epoxy the bottom of the...
Thanks Neil- will crack on!
Thanks, gray duck. Hopefully it's watertight!
Been trying various ways of getting round the samson post problem. I think I'm going to bolt the samson post to a piece of 3mm stainless plate c 220mm...
I finished putting the rest of the perspex in the wheelhouse this morning.
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I think the deck is pretty flat, but I'll check. I can make a pad to fit any change of shape that is needed.
I do have access to both sides via round hatches on the bulkhead. I've put a backing...
Perhaps getting a sheet of 3mm 150x200 stainless, using the holes on the bollard to bolt the two together and then bury these holes in the deck and bolt the bigger sheet through the backing pad.
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Here's a photo of the deck- was messing around trying out a cleat. 135620
Here's a photo of what I have...
I'd struggle to get the setup you have fitted- my boat has the space in front of the forward bulkhead separated by part of the spine that runs along the...
I was out working on the boat today and drilled 4 holes for the samson post. Slight issue is that they are quite close to the inboard edge of the backing pad/ spine framework. The holes on the...
I was out working on the boat today and drilled 4 holes for the samson post. Slight issue is that they are quite close to the inboard edge of the backing pad/ spine framework. The holes on the...
Thanks John- appreciate the advice. Think I'll skip the countersink and get some mastic round it to keep the water out. On the fittings that have a good surface bonding area, I'll sand the paint off...
I've got the bolts into the grab rails fitted. I did it (with the help of my lad) by inserting the machine screw through from the inside with a large washer on it, dribbled some sloppy epoxy...
Thanks Neil- appreciate the hints and tips!
Sounds a neat way Neil- thanks.
How oversize should the hole be? 10mm for a 6mm (M6) thread? I guess it makes sense to (try to- might be awkward) put some unthickened epoxy down the drilled hole...
I think I'll drill oversize holes for the fittings that are under stress- outboard mounts, cleats, bow roller and sampson post.
I'll cover a scrap piece of ply with plastic tape and wedge it...
I made the bottom boards for the cabin, and the w/c. I've put a ply lid on it, as I have the foam cushions made to cover the whole of the cabin, so it can be used as a flat sleeping space. The back...
I've been drilling the holes in the windows over the last couple of nights. I've got some epdm washers coming to fit between the head of the machine screw and perspex.
Thinking about bedding the...
Thanks John- I'll get some ordered and see how I go.
It's a while since I last used it, but I'm sure I used a set piece of arbomast and used that to dab it off.
I made a bigger work surface for my pillar drill- the original was 200mm square. I've made a bigger one and bolted it to the existing. Tonight I was drilling the holes for the fasteners which got me...
Thanks! It looks better in the pictures than in real life, but from a metre away it's fine. Made a little bit of progress yesterday, got the edges of the windows smooth and marked the holes for...
I agree with you - it does take ages. I had trouble with previous painting efforts wrinkling, so have been leaving this two days before re-coating. Seems to have worked out OK.
The boat is all painted now, anti slip on the decks and cockpit benches. I've cut the perspex out for the wheelhouse windows and will clean up the edges before I fit them.
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All sorts of repair jobs round the house have kept me away from the boat, but I've finally managed to get cracking with the wheelhouse. I've got backing pads for the handrails in, it's all sanded...
I drilled a small hole at each corner, then connected the dots and cut it out with the jigsaw from the outside.
I didn't have a multi tool then, but that's what I'd probably use now
When I did mine I built the box first, and then cut the hull piece out, which I made into a fairing plug when sailing
Thanks- appreciate it!- I have a poor eye for aesthetics, but glad I've got this right.
I've cut out the windscreen openings. I've left 35mm of ply, room for the interscrews to sit.
I'll cut the side windows next, which may need to sit slightly higher on the lower edge than the...
I've been working away on the wheelhouse. It's all framed up and I've got the ply glued on the roof and cut the fronts. I need to fit the backing pads for the grabrails, and mark out the window cut...
The wheelhouse is off! It did break in a couple of place along the lower edge of the frame. It was at the 'will it, won't it' stage, and well, it did but with a small amount of damage. I marked some...
These are looking lovely, Neil!
Done! Not the greatest of jobs but hopefully watertight
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Job for the weekend is to attempt fitting these windows. Should I put a washer on the machine screw between the perspex and butyl tape at every hole? Or is it better to do just the central third.
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Perfect- I can do that.
I'll try to get some M5 washers to put between the perspex and butyl so when I tighten the fasteners all the butyl tape doesn't get forced out, as the cabin side has a...
I think I've got off lucky here... photos below.. does this look like too much, or too little wiggle room?
The interscrews and machine screws arrived this morning. The cabin sides are 9mm, the...
The is looking great!
Every chance you're right, John!
I planned to put the interscrew through the ply cabin side, as they have splines to grip the timber- slotted ones weren't easily available at a sensible price. The...
I've been building a Selway Fisher Clyde 18-motorboat with small cabin/wheelhouse. It's my 3rd boat, after a stitch and tape SF highlander dinghy and a Caledonia Yawl. The plans and building notes...
CollinR- - I'd love to have her finished this year, I'm not sure about late Spring. There's a huge amount of work in cabins and wheelhouse. This is my 3rd boat, but first with (very basic)...
I've got all the hatches bedded and fixed in.
I've been cutting out the cabin windows- 8mm perspex. It went OK- I tried on some scrap to use a fine jigsaw blade but it couldn't go very quickly...
Thanks for the help and advice- got it all sorted. Everything is bedded and fixed. I've put the photos on the main build thread.
Perfect, that's my job for tomorrow
Good point...yes, they are for wood screws. Is the best way to get out of this mess to re-drill the pilot holes and use the arbomast to seal the holes?