From memory 4 liters......
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From memory 4 liters......
Thanks James maybe I'll get 4 gallons then, any extra can go towards the deck next year. I'll probably pull out the paint guns and spray her.
A gallon should be about right. A liter is just over a quart. Personally I like regular old oil based paint, it’s easy. When it comes to repainting the boat you only need to strip the old paint if it’s peeling. If the base coat has good adhesion just give it a light sand and paint over it.
Yes, what Jim said, and to emphasize: if the paint film is maintained, year-to-year, you're just scuff sanding and adding a coat every so often, depending on conditions and paint used. My experience (tropics, so worst case) is alkyd enamel 1 year, one part polyurethane 2-3 years, multi part LP (Awlgrip, Sterling, others) 5-10 years. If you go past the interval and fail the coating, then you have to do what you're faced with now. For all systems, the quality of prep determines the appearance and to some degree the adhesion/durability of the coating. All are longer lasting with care not to ding/nick the coating open. Automotive-quality fairing becomes essential as one goes up the scale, with alkyd enamel the least glossy and the most forgiving.
Thanks for all the info I just don't want to have to scrape it again.
Understand that concern! The thing is to not let the coating fail, but to sand and recoat before that happens. A boat can go many years without the total take-back-to wood you are doing. Its all about not waiting until it fails. Encapsulated construction (laminated, and glass/epoxy over) can go decades without the need to do so.
Others will know (and perhaps chime in?) more about how long a well maintained, more traditional carvel hull can go if the coatings are not allowed to fail. It looks as though your boat is worth some effort at this point, and in my view it helpful to think about boat work as a process, not a solution, and that if the process is sustained over time, the boat will live and serve well over the long term...
don't want to hijack the thread but here is a recent picture the day before we lifted and flipped. Attachment 36123
for what it might be worth Buek, I used Epifanes, two part epoxy, but this is cold molded, so I don't know if that would affect your decision. I rolled this on and I can't say enough good things about the epifanes products
[QUOTE=James Chilman;5877204]I painted my H28 with a house hold single pack enamel (Dulux here in Australia). It didn't level out as well as the marine ones are suppose to but the budget has been slim of late. Also I don't mind a bit of the "work boat" look.
It's lasted over a year so far with no bad effect. I do expect to re-do it a lot more often than a marine paint.
Hopefully next time I can get the proper stuff.
James, L.Francis designed the spreaders on the H28 to swing free so as to allow a self adjusting alignment of the weather shrouds, when under load.
The system is simple and prevents gyration of the the rig from pulling the fastenings of the tang plates at the spreaders. This solves a problem that can cause a mast to fail at the spreaders. Maybe it is focal distortion but it appears that your spreaders droop a bit and that is not a good thing if it is so! The spreader tip should bisect the angle of the shroud. I hope it is just the angle of the photo!
Jay
[IMG]https://i.ibb.co/m8rJmj5/Genesta-1.jpg
Normally it would be wise to spline the seams before applying Sterling or Awlgrip two part topside coating. That kind of prep is expensive but as you can see, it was successful on "Bright Star". I am glad that the former owner chose to go that route. I was concerned about the seams near the bow on your boat that appear to have cracked. But, if you are confident then, by all means go for the two part. Here is a bit of a teaser that shows our H28 after a hull buffing and bottom job. For those of you who might think the life lines are overkill, they are required for off shore PHRF racing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Buek's
Wishing you a shiny set of topsides!
Jay
https://uniim1.shutterfly.com/ng/ser...997183/enhancehttps://uniim1.shutterfly.com/ng/ser...651839/enhance
Cejenkinsjr u can add pictures like that anytime ot looks good.
Jay you tease, I never get tired of looking at "Bright Star".
Thanks Buek! Indeed, I never tire of looking at boats designed by LFH!
Jay
Bright star! I need a smoke...
I've heard him referred to a Naval artist/architect to me I think of his designs as simple elegance. That would be a cool name for one of his boats.
"Simple Elegance" really nails it! Here is one of my favorites, "Araminta" Please excuse the small drift not really intended here!
Jay
https://uniim1.shutterfly.com/ng/ser...080641/enhancehttps://uniim1.shutterfly.com/ng/ser...658989/enhance
I agree there Jay and elegance really does describe her, but I think I need to when the lottery or something and hire you as a consultant and we'll build a replica of "Live Yankee".
Yep we are drifting, but I'm bored and cant get out to the boat till this weekend.
"Yankee" is the R Class sloop that was defeated by West Coast skipper Matt Walsh sailing the Ted Geary R Boat "Pirate" at the Larchmont Nationals in 1929. The next Herreshoff's design was "Live Yankee" and was innovative in that L. Francis used web framing and multiple stringers, which he called "Longitudinal Framing" just as in aircraft construction.
And yes, I am guilty of a drift here! So, lets get back to your H28. What is her name? What number is the hull?
Jay
"Bright Star" was her name when she was first launched. By the time we aquired her, she was named "Jin Lung" which means Lucky Dragon.Quote:
Originally Posted by cejenkinsjr
Her owner, at that time, owned a hotel in Hong Kong. We chose to give her original name back to her.
Jay
Cassandra
Ah, "Cassandra! That name is like music to the mind! Is that name hand lettered? Nice drop shading!
I have been racking my brain as to what kind of wood she is planked with! What comes to mind first is Bald Cypress followed by Port Orford Cedar. Scrape a few crumbs off and give it the smell test. Port Orford has a pleasant distinct perfume that no other cedar posesses. Bald Cypress is pretty neutral and was often used for barrels as it would impart no taste to the contents. Either one is stable, rot resistant and insect resistant and great for planking wooden boats! Most of our Port Orford cedar was sold off to the Japanese for the restoration of their Shinto shrines twenty years ago. They bought so much that our, remaining, trees are now an endangered species!
Jay
I can vouch for the TotalBoat Wet Edge, at least for a small boat. Easy to apply using roll and tip method.
I put on two coats over two coats of Interlux Pre-kote. When I had to scrape to get back to wood when installing a drain plug, it took some real elbow grease. It was a good hard coating.
I, too, was motivated to try it based on its being a bit less expensive. So far no problems after 3 years. Two summers of those on a mooring.
Mike
P.S. Lovely boat! Please post more photos.
those are lovely boats. What is the colour of Bright Star's anti foul? Ive been looking for that colour here in the UK and can't get a decent one other that one of the greens from
international
"Bright Star" is Jay's mine is "Cassandra", but I think it is Herreshoff green or as close as they could get. Jay will probably see this and give you an answer. That's the color I want for my bottom paint also.
If I can't find it then sea foam green.
We use Pettit Hydrocoat. It is an ablative, water based bottom paint that flows and feathers well. I find that it works very well on our H28 as it is a sluffing paint so the bottom does not end up being paint sick. It lasts close to two seasons. I like the fact that slime does not grow on the bottom either. I did find that the paint companies seem to keep changing their pigments so I went to Pettit after Interlux changed. Best thing to do is check a color card where you buy the paint. I searched a long time for Herreshoff Green. Back in the day it was called "Singapore Green". Some Imp who works for the Devil seems to be in charge of paint pigments nowadays! :d
Jay
Thank you both. in England we are somewhat limited. Sea Jet does a green but its too emerald green. Ill look out for that. your boats are beautiful.
Thank you Jay and you David, what's your baby/boat.
A Holman 26, which is a cruiser/racer. Bigger than a Stella but smaller than a Twister. She was built for there commodore of the local yacht club and is fitted out in high style, all mahogany. Sadly in need of some French Polishing and general TLC.
I might add that if "Cassandra" was built more East than West the planking may be Eastern White Cedar or Larch. Flat sawn Larch can have that grain pattern.
Jay
Attachment 36973
Today we purchased Holiday, a 1951 H-28. Sailed her under genoa and mizzen in 15-22 knot breeze, 15 miles downwind, from Dutch Harbor to Bullocks Cove RI. Speed was 5 to 6+knots.
At about age 40, Holiday was sheathed in 1/2" mahogany, epoxy, and glass. Surveyor says she is "very good".
(photos by previous owner)
Attachment 36974
Thanks Jay as far as I know she was built on the NE coast.
Congrats SalsDad she is a beauty.
Thank God she does not have an added dog house! She is Lovely! I see you have Herreshoff green on the bottom too! The rig is probably a lot easier to use than the one we have on our own H28. That mast head roller furl set up is a blessing in many respects! It should make dowsing the jib a simple maneuver!
I should mention that "Bright Star" has the original rig that LFH drew. She also has the masthead balloon reaching jib he designed. Several owners, before we owned her, tried to carry her masthead 130 Genoa in heavy airs hard on the wind and the result was three broken mastheads!
This was because her upper shrouds do not reach all the way the truck. Rather they are about two and a half feet below it. This is because the lower support avoids the bowing that a mast tends to take an S bend with a node that bends to weather when the mast is heavily loaded. It is also the reason he used the 3/4 jib height. I do find that the 3/4 jib carries her to weather very well when the wind pipes up and does not strain the rig to the breaking point.
Another thing we discovered is that the hull form plays a very active role when sailing on the wind. Eight feet of beam is just about the maximum beam that a 28 foot boat can effectively sail with without loss of sailing efficiency. Unlike a skinny beamed sloop the H28 goes to weather better when allowed to breath a bit, by cracking off a point or two. This is because the hull form, when heeled, actually lifts the boat to weather and gives better the balance to the helm.
We are planning to make a new main mast for her that will be the sloop mast that L. Francis designed for her. We will keep the mizzen but the added luff length of the jib and main should work very well for S. Ca where winds are normally light. But we will have an extra set of reef points just in case we get hit by a Santa Ana Wind.
Jay
pretty boat and will be following your progress. good luck.
jim
Sorry it's been awhile since I posted anything, but our weather has been awful. We have been having heavy rains and flooding for the past couple of months and at one point the road in was covered with water. This last weekend was the first chance I've had in a while to do any work so here are the new pics.https://youtu.be/kxdPFbZgefoAttachment 39126