View Full Version : spiling for the haven 12 1/2

Nick Hyde
02-17-2001, 07:25 PM
I seem to be taking way too much time per plank. I think my original error was that I only made one measurement onto the spiling batten instead of two. I marked out the plank widths onto the frames, stem and transom and then drew a fair curve through them as specified in the book. I then took my batten and laid the outboard edge along the marked line and measured the distance to the rabbit on the keel and stem. Placing the batten on my stock I reversed the process and cut to the curved line. I used the out-board edge of the batten to determine the width of the plank. I didn't really get it - that the curvature of the batten has to be transferred to the stock for the plank to fit right- until I tried to fit the 2nd plank and of course it was way off. Is my mistake that I used the outboard edge of the batten along the plank width line? I read and reread the book but it just didn't sink in. By placing the spiling batten between the keel rabbit and the plank width line and recording two measurements per station - will this transfer the right curvature onto the stock? Do you lay the batten on the stock
and measure the batten to rabbit diatance, then usue a sencond batten to draw this curve and the measure from this line the plank-width line? I think this is my mistake.
I am making expensive sawdust. Your help is
greatly appreciated.

Also, can I/should I use 5200 at the transom and stem - plank faying surfaces? What's the best sealant if I bung the screw holes?

Art Read
02-18-2001, 01:14 PM
Don't get discouraged... If you're like me planking is something you'll only get at all good at just about the time you're all finished with it! (Like every other skill you're gonna pick up building this boat....) If I understand your difficulties correctly, it sounds like you have the basic principles pretty much down. I suspect you WILL find taking both measurements will help, but in my own experience, I found that each plank had to be treated individually if you want to get anywhere near the laid-out plank patterns on the first try. (And they'll STILL need some trial fitting, no matter how careful you are. Cut 'em intentionaly "proud" and you'll save a lot of wood, if not much time. Also remember that any "edgesetting" of that batten while spiling will throw off your measurements when you lay it back down on the stock for transfering. Keep plugging away and before you know it you'll be equally dismmayed by how long it takes to caulk her and fair the hull!

PS I wouldn't recomend 5200 on the faying surfaces at the rabbit and hood ends. Some poor bastard may have to take those planks out some day. I used Sikaflexe's 3100. (I think) They've changed their numbers around a bit. What you want is the "Marine Sealant and Bedding Compound". I'm sure 3-M makes an equivilant product. You just don't want the goop with "Adheasive" in the label. That stuff is forever.

Classic Boatworks - Maine
02-18-2001, 01:17 PM
There are many boatbuilding books that have good chapters on spiling planking. The garboard plank is a special case and does take time. Don't rush. Both Chapelle and WoodenBoat Magazine have excellent directions.
We all make expensive sawdust from time to time. http://media5.hypernet.com/~dick/ubb/smile.gif

[This message has been edited by Classic Boatworks - Maine (edited 02-18-2001).]

02-18-2001, 01:19 PM
I would recommend viewing the stem rabbet and the transom seams as caulked seams with bevels to be caulked and payed with seam compound.

Art Read
02-18-2001, 01:30 PM
Thad makes a good point. I only used the goop in the rabbits 'cause there was a faying surface there to take it and I know those are "problem" areas for leaks as the boat "works". The plank itself, in way of the back rabbit should indeed be beveled for good, old cotton caulking just like the rest of your seams. The bedding beneath is just for a little "belt and suspenders" peace of mind. Don't let the goop get in the way of a good tight fit with the cotton and don't let it "lock" the planks down on the frames. You do want that wood to "give" a little.

[This message has been edited by Art Read (edited 02-18-2001).]

02-19-2001, 04:26 PM
It's been about a year since I planked my Haven but here goes. You will need several battens during your spiling process. The first couple of planks can be spiled out using a straight batten, but as you get to the turn of the bilge and up to the sheerstrake you will need to construct a two piece batten that will eliminate 'edge set'. Greg Rossell's book has a good run down on spiling and the particulars. I would recomend that you use a batten that you can set close to the stem rabbet (you may have to point the end a bit, and run the batten out past the transom. Use a compass to transfer two arcs per station pick up for both sides of the plank being spiled for. Take this marked batten, lie it on your planking stock and transfer the arc measurements, again you will be marking two arc's on your planking stock. The intersection of the arc will be the mark you transfered from your spiling batten. Once you have all the marks transfered you can use another batten to connect all the dots and proceed to eye a fair line and then cut your plank out. You then duplicate this plank for the other side. I found this method of using a compass much more reliable than taking measurements. You don't want to use any batten that you have to edge set to lay in between your marked planks.......it will never be right.
Take your time and you will get it right!

Norm Jackson
02-20-2001, 03:22 PM
Spiling a curved plank may require a batten (or pattern) made up of a number of pieces fastened together as rigidly as you can get it. When you move the batten to your stock there must be no movement between the pieces that make up the pattern.
As Paul describes using a compass or dividers is better than measuring the width of the plank on the pattern. Holding one point of the dividers approximateily in the centre of the pattern and the middle of a frame, open them until the other point touches the adjacent plank where it sits against the frame, make an arc to your right. Swing the dividers, ensuring the point in the centre of the pattern does not move off its position, and adjust them to touch the depth of the rabbit. Swing the dividers and make an arc to your left. Carry on keeping the top measurment arcs to the right and the bottom measurment arcs to the left.
Move the pattern to the plank stock, fasten it securely in the approx centre and use the dividers to transfer the arcs to the plank. Make sure the top arcs and the bottom arcs are in the right place. Connect the arcs, double check, cut the plank proud and trial fit. Plane off the excess width until you achieve the fit tightness you want.

Nick Hyde
02-27-2001, 10:33 PM
Thank you all for your help with my spiling difficulties. "Edge-setting" war my error, and of course when the sprung batten was moved to the stock the keel edge became too small and the sheer edge too large. You have
prevented further hair loss in a guy over fifty.

Tom Beecroft
02-28-2001, 01:31 AM
No need to disclose age here, Nick. Me, I'm 29 (but don't tell my 17 yr old daughter).

11-29-2002, 08:30 PM
Can someone explain the term "edge setting" as used above?


[ 11-29-2002, 08:31 PM: Message edited by: TomHaven12 ]

11-29-2002, 09:55 PM
Edge setting is forcing the plank against its natural lay, pushing one end up or down more than it wants as you wrap it around the hull. By forcing edge set into a plank you can reduce the amount of fitting required. A strip built boat is the ultimate example of edge set, as each strip is forced to lay against the prior one without taper or additional fitting.