Question on CPES and stain

[Dan McCosh]

The info with CPES suggests a procedure for staining. The idea is to lay it on, then wipe it off with solvent in an hour or so, which is supposed to leave the CPES in the wood and a surface that will take stain. Question is has anyone tried this? Does the stain apply evenly?

[ 03-11-2003, 03:58 PM: Message edited by: Dan McCosh ]

[Bob Cleek]

No, but if you call up Steve Smith at Smith and Co., I'll bet he can tell you anything you want to know. They are very accessible. Their number's on the can.

[NormMessinger]

What bob said of course but I just had a thought :rolleyes: I'd bet stain will disolve in CPES. Mix it in and slap it on. Let us know what Steve thinks about that idea, if you please.

[Kelsey]

I am getting ready to do just the opposite, apply stain, THEN the CPES, then varnish. The stain manufacturer (Interlux) does not reccomend this. They say the "epoxy" may lift the stain. I am letting the stain sit for a couple days before I apply the CPES...I've heard many people do this with great results, and no "lifting". I'll let you know...

[rustnrot]

Kelsey, be careful. We put stain, then CPES on before. After 24 hours of dry time on the stain, some of it lifted when we rolled the CPES on. Let the stain dry more than 24 hours like you suggest. And possibly rolling it on was not a good idea???

[acme401]

We applied the stain first(interlux),then let it dry for three or more days in a heated cellar.The stain must be throughly dry or it will lift!
If you apply the CPES first I don't think the stain will be able to penetrate it(after all it is a sealer)

[paul oman]

CPES is nearly 70% solvent mixed into an unknown epoxy. You might try using some other penetrating epoxy or making your own with less solvent. Probably less likely to have a problem using a penetrating solution with 20-30% solvent vs. 70% - just my humble opinion!

paul oman
www.epoxyproducts.com/marine.html (http://www.epoxyproducts.com/marine.html)

[Dan McCosh]

What's happening here is that I am following the directions, which is something of a new experience. I tried this on a test piece (the solvent wash) but haven't used rhe stain yet. Just wondering if anyone else had attempted the recommended procedure.

[Anthony Zucker]

I was hoping for a concensus on this thread but couldnt wait any longer. I am replacing a teak transom on a GP14 sailboat with luan(sorry, but it's all I can afford). I stained it with Minwax cherry, let it sit for two days, applied CPES, gave it a very light sanding and am now applying coats of varnish with very light sanding in between coats. There is no observeable "lifting" of the stain. Let's see how it holds up over time. PS; Cherry stain on luan is a very close match to teak.

[BillB]

I've used a few different Epoxys OVER stain. The varying results were definatly due to drying time of the stain. Using Minwax stain I found waiting 2 - 3 days drying time worked fine. I always have had some lifting after just 24 hours. I have not tried CPES and THEN stain. Without trying it, I would agree with the above post though, sealing up the wood, then applying stain seems sort of cart before the horse. I won't jump the gun though, maybe more tests are needed...
Just my two-cents..

Bill