View Full Version : steering console for outboard skiff
BC Bill
07-02-2009, 03:29 PM
The project - 18-ft Simmons Sea Skiff.
Project status - hull complete, putting the working deck down this weekend.
Looking for ideas from the forum on building the steering console.
I've only ever had tiller steering (and would use that on the Skiff but for the talk seen here in the forum of that bow high in the air blocking the view forward.)
I have the WB series describing construction and I'm thinking of something along the lines of the console shown there. On the starboard side with room to sneak by to get forward. Basically just a plywood box.
Is it that simple? Anything in particular to consider in the design?
Seems like it would be nice to have room to stash a chart, binocs, bird book, etc., and have a place to mount a compass and maybe a tach.
Thanks everyone, Bill
SaltyD from BC
07-02-2009, 06:44 PM
I'm not aware of any plans for a centre console that don't come with plans for a complete boat off hand. If you google bateau plans, JM's site has a lot of pics and drawings of his designs; many centre console, that might give you some good ideas. Maybe Glen L as well. A good plan would be to have a motor and controls already and figure out a good way to conceal the steering/controls in PVC conduit that could be hidden nicely by your structure. Sounds like a fun project - good luck with it :)
Mike Vogdes
07-02-2009, 07:33 PM
I mock up a steering console out of cardboard first, then fool with it untill I'm happy with it, then take it apart and use it as a template for the plywood stitch and glue version... works well and usually pretty cheap.
TimmS
07-02-2009, 07:58 PM
I mock up a steering console out of cardboard first, then fool with it untill I'm happy with it, then take it apart and use it as a template for the plywood stitch and glue version... works well and usually pretty cheap.
Same here, except I use the cover sheets that I get when I order plywood......they are strong enough to drill holes in and "install" the wheel and gauges... I assemble the pieces with scraps of wood inside the corners and tack it all together with a 1/4" pneumatic stapler. It's really great fun, you get to be very creative, and talk about quick results!
BOBSIM
07-03-2009, 10:29 AM
Bill, I'm Happy with my arrangement. the size was kept to a minimum, shape was determined by helm and cable requirements.
http://http://s204.photobucket.com/albums/bb63/bobdsimmons/?action=view¤t=simmonsseaskiff001-1.jpghttp://s204.photobucket.com/albums/bb63/bobdsimmons/?action=view¤t=simmonsseaskiff001-1.jpgCan't seem to post a photo, maybe this link will make it.http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb63/bobdsimmons/simmonsseaskiff001-1.jpg
http://http://s204.photobucket.com/albums/bb63/bobdsimmons/ (http://http//s204.photobucket.com/albums/bb63/bobdsimmons/)
http://%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb63/bobdsimmons/simmonsseaskiff001-1.jpg%5B/IMG%5Dhttp://www.woodenboat.com/forum/%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb63/bobdsimmons/simmonsseaskiff001-1.jpg%5B/IMG%5D
Simmons18
07-03-2009, 07:18 PM
BC Bill
Look at www.simmonsseaskiff.com You'll see many good ideas.
Love those boats,
Simmons18
pipefitter
07-03-2009, 10:45 PM
Just a thought here but one thing to keep in mind, at least with dash mount controls on a center console is the average standard 'minimum' on centers for helm and single control is13". You can squeeze it closer than that but thats usually a more convenient minimum layout. 14" is even better.
Also consider that the wheel will determine the widest point. In other words, if you make a skinny console and the wheel hangs 2-3" outside of that. . . plus room for teleflex cable if not using hydraulic steering if the controls are to be mounted on a horizontal surface.
Pagie
07-04-2009, 07:43 AM
This is about as small as I could make mine.
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/122/257164985_c67d122ca2.jpg
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/55/132722431_bc3a6db080_o.jpg
rbgarr
07-04-2009, 10:04 AM
I have the WB series describing construction and I'm thinking of something along the lines of the console shown there. On the starboard side with room to sneak by to get forward. Basically just a plywood box.
Is it that simple? Anything in particular to consider in the design?
Seems like it would be nice to have room to stash a chart, binocs, bird book, etc., and have a place to mount a compass and maybe a tach.
Thanks everyone, Bill
I installed a small side console far enough aft to have vee berths forward in an open 19 footer. It was very convenient for fishing, family day trips, anchoring and cleaning to be able to walk the centerline unobstructed. The wheel was mounted so that it was comfortable to use standing beside it as well as behind and from a portable chair.
http://i41.tinypic.com/214wgm.jpg
MiddleAgesMan
07-05-2009, 08:06 PM
I have chosen to do a side console on my SSS18. When I finished cutting out the transom and well from the 3/4" sheet of plywood I had an irregular piece left in the middle. It was pretty close to the right size and shape to make the side of my console so I cleaned it up and sized it and here is the result:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2674/3692283966_04c4d77180_b.jpg
It's a little low for steering while standing and probably a little high for sitting so it should be about right for use either way. The extension forward is for a seat for someone to use while underway. It's not sized for long-term use but should be fine when running between fishing holes.
SMARTINSEN
07-05-2009, 10:26 PM
Try this:
http://www.woodenboat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=93362
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http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3114/3692741668_e6af358c62_b.jpg
Here is an innovative minimalist steering console from the Wooden Boat Show a few days ago.
These guys drove all the way up from South Carolina. The cap rails (white oak), and the oars are dyed black with aniline dye.
===============
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2503/3691962997_498ab08575_b.jpg
Here is another that I thought very nice, though I forget which boat this is.
pipefitter
07-06-2009, 03:09 AM
I used a center console in my Simmons for a few reasons. One being I don't want to scale thwarts even if split. Down here, large fish like to take you around the boat so you need to be able to use the entire perimeter. Also, the center would be used for something, whether it be tackle boxes, coolers, live well, gas tank, batteries or what have you. The center console allowed me to use the space for dual purposes. I was able to consolidate the space normally taken up by these other inclusions typically associated with a day on the water. Being able to have a custom seat height. Not only to rise above any given attitude of the hull at any given time, but to stand and drive as well as sit, the ability for someone short or tall to be able to drive the boat in comfort.
Many times I fish solo. I also need to be able to see both sides of the water when scoutng for renegade schools of bait fish.
Cooler or tackle box fits under the seat. Gas tank is a temp can so I don't have to store fuel for long periods of time. Otherwise, there is a 12 gallon tank that fits under the rear deck. The gas tank will also fit mostly under the seat.
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l309/tigmaster/P9070038.jpg
Also there is room for tackle, small cooler and a 22 gallon baitwell or my tub with the cast net in it under the console and the front seat,plus the ability to stretch my legs throughout the day. It's quite comfortable. Much the same as driving a car.
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l309/tigmaster/P2070055.jpg
Once I get to where I am going, everything is situated and out of the way, including spare fishing rods. I use the compartment in the helm box more than I planned. It's great for car keys, spent jigs and hooks, cell phones, tools along with all the electrical etc. Also room on the dash for guages which was another consideration. I wanted to be able to see them easily. 13" steering wheel and even a side mount throttle is still going to use roughly 18" of space minimum.
MiddleAgesMan
07-06-2009, 06:29 AM
I like the idea of a center console in the SSS but did not want to cut or drill a bunch of holes in the floors for the cables. That was what has driven me to set the console off to the starboard side--the cables will run along the side, under the gunwale.
pipefitter
07-06-2009, 12:05 PM
The center consoles are not for everybody. I didn't cut holes in the floors but an elongated notch just deep enough to accept the largest fitting that has to pass thru in the top of the floors that is capped by the deck. Also, this is a glued hull (my ply deck is glued and screwed to the floors) and the 7/8" thick mahogany floors are overkill on 12" centers. The teleflex and shift/throttle cables pass down the starboard side and the electrical harness down the port side, which is only big enough to allow a 3/4" poly flex tube as a watertight chase for the wires. These notches, that are no more than 2" wide by 1" deep, are in liine with the rear legs of the console near the taller part of the floors.
This also keeps all cables tight to the underside of the deck itself and out of any water that may get in the bilge.
IIRC, I used a 7/8" wood boring bit side by side to create the rounded notches in the floors and cleaned them up in between to make each slot. It's a pretty tidy setup. It is actually best suited for hydraulic steering which is what I intended initially and will adapt to once this teleflex needs to be replaced.
I should also note that I have years of experience making provision for rigging in boats and I have all of the resources at hand in which to model some of these hair brained ideas. I already knew the limitations of teleflex cable etc. It would be tougher for someone that doesn't do this every day to commit to something that doesn't have ready access to a plan B. I modeled the teleflex out of the already built console in order to layout the chases.
Alan Peck
07-06-2009, 01:24 PM
I built a side console and am very happy with it. I put a hinged, lockable, gasketed top on it. This is a great place (on an open boat) to store the keys, wallet, signal horn, wallet etc. so that they are handly and will stay dry.
The hinged top also provides easy access to the fuse panel and keeps the wiring connections dry.
SMARTINSEN
07-06-2009, 02:20 PM
Alan, would you be able to post a photo showing how you made the hinge and gasket top? It sounds like a good idea that you have.
donald branscom
07-06-2009, 02:56 PM
Before you build one check out the pre-made fiberglass ones first. Saves time.
Around $400-$700.
http://i42.tinypic.com/n21ik2.jpg
go to gbfiberglassparts.com
TimmS
07-06-2009, 04:05 PM
Donald said the f word:eek:
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