Fiberglassing Question

[Willin']

The dreaded time to start glassing my skiff is drawing nigh. The question is will 6 oz. cloth make the sharp bend at the chine or should I round over the sharp edge?

When glassing surfboards I've found that glass often doesn't like to take the turn of the rail lying down. The chine angle varies but approaches 90 in places.

I'm using basic glass cloth and epoxy, nothing fancy. Just trying to eliminate unnecessary steps when possible.

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l100/Hotrudderedbum/MonkeyBaby017.jpg

It's a flat bottom hard chine Sea Hoss work skiff.

Thanks!

[JimD]

You'll need to round it a bit, definitely.

[kc8pql]

A radius on the chine is a good idea anyway. A rounded corner is less less likely to be damaged when it hits something.

[RodB]

I am surprized you are not going to tape the chine/seam with biaxial tape to insure the joint is very strong?... in addition to the bottom sheathing.

BTW, if you are determined to have a sharp chine, you can always mold a hard chine atop the radiused glassed chine... with thickened epoxy. This is many times done with the bottom of transoms, where a high level or protection is desired, but a sharp bottom edge in necessary to allow for the smooth release of water.

RodB

[Willin']

Wow, no one suggested I put the bottom on before glassing. This would never have happened on SA. :D:D

I just re-drilled all the bottom screws for more counterbore to allow for the radius, but I'm glad you mentioned the need for a smooth release back aft RodB. Tommorrow I'll start grinding away on the side chines.

I'm glassing 2 bottom layers with one side layer in between with about a 4" overlap between lams. Plus the joint is epoxied and screwed. I'm hoping this will be sufficiently strong.

Thanks for the good advice!

[paladin]

Uh...willin'.......do you think the boat will float with the holes in the bottom like that?....

[Willin']

Uh...willin'.......do you think the boat will float with the holes in the bottom like that?....


Who says this forum has no sensayuma?:D

[CJ]

Willin'

Don't dread the process, it'll go quite easily. I 'glassed the entire bottom of my (similar) skiff with 10 oz then taped over all the edges with 10 oz tape, all over a 3/4" radius and it laid down very nicely over that without lifting at all.

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/cjg0601/39.jpg?t=1244362191

CJ

[RodB]

My sheathing was xynole polyester cloth, both chines radiused and taped with biaxial tape (inside and out), the final two coats of epoxy consisted of graphite powder mixed in the epoxy.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/flat-on-bottom-wood72-1.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/Txskiffgraphitebottom.jpg

R

[chill]

Just round the edges. You will have no problem

[the_gr8t_waldo]

the greater the radius the esayer it'll be to lay fiberglass over it. but if you have any doubts, lay "peel-ply" over the chimes when wetting out. it'll force the cloth down over a sharp radius. not a 100% fix, but will allow a slightly sharper bend. after it hardens you just rip off the peel-ply and the resulting surface will be ready to take on another layer of cloth...no sanding nessary.

[Captain Intrepid]

Wow, no one suggested I put the bottom on before glassing. This would never have happened on SA. :D:D

Obviously you want a transparent glass bottom. :p