Steaming Oak Question

[Clinton B Chase]

We are replacing the rails and inwales on a 10' Dyer Dow. These are the boats with the rounded bows, flimsy glass hull. We struggled to get the oak (5/8" x 1") to take the compound curvature as the rail rounds the bow. We want to try again. A few questions:

1) Can we resteam the oak if it straightens out?
2) On the next go, we'll be better about clamping the twist out of the hot rail out of the box. The inwale needs to then go in. Should we be trying to do the two together? Or do separate runs?

Cheers,
Clint

[Thad]

Can't re-steam with good results. If you try both in the same steaming I'd think to do the inwale first. It's hard to get twist in a rectangular section, easier nearer square.

[Rational Root]

This is how I managed to get the twist on to oak sheer clamps

http://davesboat.blogspot.com/2009/01/sheer-madness.html

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-jLgHzfXWAU/SV_LaT3SmAI/AAAAAAAAA1U/cFtyoV_o31s/s400/IMG_0347.JPG

[Thorne]

Now I've heard of a Spanish Windlass -- but that setup is unexpected....

....nobody expects the Spanish Inquisition Windlass!

;0 )

[switters]

Now I've heard of a Spanish Windlass -- but that setup is unexpected....

....nobody expects the Spanish Inquisition Windlass!

;0 )

best joke above the bilge, ever.

When trying to get chine logs to do a similar dance, I've left them clamped and damp in between weekends, (5 days) and it seems to make a big difference.

Good luck.

[peter radclyffe]

We are replacing the rails and inwales on a 10' Dyer Dow. These are the boats with the rounded bows, flimsy glass hull. We struggled to get the oak (5/8" x 1") to take the compound curvature as the rail rounds the bow. We want to try again. A few questions:

1) Can we resteam the oak if it straightens out?
2) On the next go, we'll be better about clamping the twist out of the hot rail out of the box. The inwale needs to then go in. Should we be trying to do the two together? Or do separate runs?

Cheers,
Clint
i can only speak for european oak, rehearse your cramping positions, pads, ply etc, steam it again till you cant touch it, you can put the grain vertical, quarter sawn, back it with ply once its out of the box, cramp it every 3 inches, if it splits , you can put cramps and pads from top to bottom to contain splits, smother it in linseed oil, any thing to keep the air from drying it, if you cant cramp it because of a foredeck, bend it into a former, or mold

[Bill R]

Clint- let me know when you are going to try again. I'd like to join you.

Also, per the clamping every 3" sounds like a good idea. If you need more clamps, let me know. I'm thinking spring clamps for a lot of it since they can go in fast for an initial grip, with C or Bar clamps following for a better grip. I can provide 30-40 spring clamps if I have a couple days notice. I can also do a bunch of quick grips as well (thinking speed again)

[Doug B]

I just completed this job. I had posted a query about the suitability of using dry oak vs green for steaming. If anyone has been hanging for the answer to that I'd say don't. Anyway back to the Dyer. I did the forward inwale (?) first; clamped the bejeezuz out of it ( 20 c clamps and a pipeclamp across abeam to hold the bend) and let it sit, then did the port and starboard rubrails . This is where the real clamping comes in. Here you pull the to rails together and the rivet them. Finished with the aft inwales. I'm pretty good at steaming, bit the fiberglass thing was new so the process was pretty random, but the result was acceptable. I hope this helps.

[Mrleft8]

Did this a few years ago for a friend. Make a good SOLID form with an overbend built in. Let your rails set for a good 48 hours before you try to play with them. Use air dried/semi-green White Oak.

[peter radclyffe]

Did this a few years ago for a friend. Make a good SOLID form with an overbend built in. Let your rails set for a good 48 hours before you try to play with them. Use air dried/semi-green White Oak.
you cant always waste time waiting, fasten them as soon as their cool, 3 hours

[Mrleft8]

Can't always waste time having failures due to impaitience either.

[peter radclyffe]

Can't always waste time having failures due to impaitience either.
i guess you dont work for customers

[The549]

fight

[peter radclyffe]

fight

peace

[Mrleft8]

fight

Nah!.... I might need Peter for something in the future... ;)

[Tom Hoffman]

I like steamed Oak, it has a mild flavor similar to Brocolli, just a touch of salt.

At least that is what I tell SWAMBO every time she trys to serve Brocolli.

One of these days I am going to go out to the shop and get a few chunks and throw it into the steamer when she is not looking.

Cheers,

Tom...

[Eric Hvalsoe]

As somebody else already referenced, this steaming business works much better with wet stock ('green', or 'bending' oak.)
It is the moisture within the wood that gets superheated and allows the piece to take a sharper bend. In fact you are drying the wood out as you steam it, going for that golden moment of flexibility. Steaming a dry piece of oak a second time sounds rather futile. At some point it will simply delaminate, fracture, or fall apart. Coating with linseed oil before steaming does seem to help retain mosture and heat for bending. 'Course it can sometimes be difficult to find true bending oak or some otherwise pliable hardwood. That is when you might consider lamination, and if you don't want to laminate oak, pick another hardwood that you trust gluing up. I have occasinally sunk dry oak out of desperation to drive some moisture in - not very effective.

Or just bend the mother around come hell or high water with whatever ingenious clamping system you can come up with.
Bending with a strap along the outboard surface to keep the thing from blowing up can be helpful, though sometimes clumsy.

[Rational Root]

Now I've heard of a Spanish Windlass -- but that setup is unexpected....

....nobody expects the Spanish Inquisition Windlass!

;0 )

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_-jLgHzfXWAU/SaE4Xp1MHhI/AAAAAAAAA98/9v-Z7TmFmcE/s400/IMG_0389.jpg

A Truckers Hitch and an f clamp - you've got a whole lot of twisting going on (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZEkvrFQeTGU).