Re-Sawing Mahogany

[BrianR]

What am I doing wrong? I have a piece of Mahogany (1x5), and I'm trying to resaw it in half. My bandsaw (a 12 inch Jet) can't do the job! Do I need a special blade to do this kind of work? I bought one of those good blades from Highland Hardware not long ago, and its as if the thing was burned into dullness in a hurry. Any thoughts on this? Thanks all.

[ 03-05-2005, 10:41 PM: Message edited by: BrianR ]

[Bob Smalser]

Is the saw bogging down, or is it that the blade won't cut without burning?

Smaller machines don't have a lot of the power resawing requires, but H Mahog is pretty soft and your Jet should do the job, if slowly.

Got any guide blocks touching your sawteeth?

[Tom M.]

Tell us more about the saw. Can it apply a lot of tension to the blade? What's actually happening when you say "it can't do the job"? How big is the motor? 5" resaw is quite a job for even a 1.5 HP motor in my experience. Tell us how you set up the guides, and are they good guides in the first place? There are special resaw blades available...I think they are called "skip tooth". What kind of blade did you buy from Highland?

Whenever I need to resaw anything, I use a big industrial saw at one of 3 places I've found around town. I know, the woodworking mags show beautiful resawing being done on a 14" Delta, and you can get by with it, but they are just too wimpy in my experience.

[Jack Heinlen]

Um, I think that saw will take a half inch blade, which would be good. Maybe even wider?

This is a complex topic. A study of one of the very good bandsaw books, none of which come to mind, would be in order. Having the guides well adjusted. A point guide on the table, but not a fence. The pressure of the stock will mean watching and guiding the stock at an angle, adjusting as you go. Go slowly!

Set up correctly, and with the right grok, it should work fine. I wouldn't want to saw a lot of it though.

[BrianR]

Wow - sounds like maybe I'm ill-equipted. My bandaw is a Jet, 12". Its a 1/2 HP motor (8 Amps), and as I feed my board into the machine, it'll stop the motor if I push too hard. Mind you, it performs admirably on everything else, and this is the first time I'm trying to re-saw.

The blade is the 1/2 inch "Wood Slicer" from Highland Hardware.

Thanks again guys.

[Hal Forsen]

I have a 15" Canadian General that has only a 3/4 hp motor and I can resaw down to 3/16th's anything from ipe' to balsa with a 1/2" 3tpi Timberwolf blade. Ball bearing guides up top and cool blocks below the table.
Too much or too little tension? Proper alignment and guides? Trying to saw against a fence? Pushing too hard??? So many variables.
Mahog should not be a problem with a decent blade and 1/2 hp.
My 2cents.
HF

[ssor]

This might sound like a smart-ass question, but is the blade installed with the teeth pointed down? You can saw thin stuff with almost anything but resawing is more demanding.

[J.S.B.]

Originally posted by ssor:
This might sound like a smart-ass question, but is the blade installed with the teeth pointed down? You can saw thin stuff with almost anything but resawing is more demanding.Here's my "really amateur" question :
What is the difference between sawing and resawing ?

By the way... I'm building my own boat... Own a Delta 12" band saw... and I'm a real amateur when it comes to woodworking... If I can build a boat, most people also can !

Jean-Sebastien Berard
http://www.geocities.com/wildcat_sport/
24' powercat by Ken Hankinson
jasipati

[ 03-06-2005, 07:51 AM: Message edited by: J.S.B. ]

[Jack Heinlen]

Brian,

I just re-read your original post.

It could just be that you are trying to rush it. But getting a look at how to set a saw up would help, no matter what else is going on. If you have a good liberry nearby they should have a book. I'm trying to remember the name of the book I liked. I think it was called, simply, The Bandsaw Book . I looked for some pics on line, but couldn't find any. And, a skip tooth blade, or, perhaps, one cut for ripping? I haven't looked at what is available lately.

In lieu of those, a few words:

Side guides running just loose, and just back from the gullets when the saw has pressure on it. I've found that replacing the standard steel guides with graphite composite ones is worth it, just on general principle. They need adjusting more frequently due to wear. Top and bottom guides adjusted in line with each other, and in the right place. The movement of the blade back, when you put pressure on, should be minimal. A point of wood with some height to it, clamped to the table to guide on. All of these take some fussing with to get them right. They make a big difference.

And go slowly! You're only sawing one piece of wood. Give the saw time to breath.

It's not an ideal sized saw for this, but should get through it fine, if set up correctly.

[ 03-06-2005, 08:14 AM: Message edited by: Jack Heinlen ]

[DrakeChristensen]

Originally posted by J.S.B.:
What is the difference between sawing and re-sawing?J.S.B.: There are much more expert woodworkers here who can answer your question better than I but: "re-sawing" is making thinner stock, say a 1x5 into two ~1/2x5 boards. Typically performed with a band saw.

[Mrleft8]

A jet saw with a 1/2HP motor, and a 1/2" blade should slice right through that 5" mahogany. Without any malice, I suggest that your blade might be installed upside down. (as SSOR suggested) It does happen. Even to trained professionals. It also might be a defective blade. Perhaps you got a blade that was never sharpened. In any case, if it's burning the wood, the blade is toast now. Get a new blade and try again.

[Ken Hutchins]

Ditto most of what has already been stated about a good coarse blade proper adjustments, etc. Another part of the process is blade speed, most of the small cheaper saws go too fast, part of marketing ya see run the machines too fast wear out blades, sell more blades. So lower the speed with smaller pulley on the motor and bigger on the saw. Another issue might be that motor being from someplace in Asia might not actually be 1/2 hp, probably more like 1/4.
I have a 14 inch Ridgid, which is really a Jet with a different name and color, with the lower speed I get almost double the blade life and have cut 8 inch thick ash with no problem.

[Billy Bones]

Hi BrianR,

To the point: a 12" Jet and a Wood Slicer should have no trouble resawing mahogany of any sort.

A dull Wood Slicer blade will not feel much different than a sharp one to the unpracticed thumb (machine stopped, of course) so you could have a dull blade which will give the symptoms you describe.

Once a blade has cut teak, it is dull.

If you have a highly figured piece of wood it could be difficult but slow speed should allow you to get through.

Good luck.

[ssor]

Another posibility that happens. Cutting just one small piece of dirty wood can wreck a blade. I mean just one little piece of grit will do the trick.

[Lurch]

I have a Delta 12" and I've resawn mahogany with it, but you have to watch the feed rate. The 12" is a bit underpowered for resawing, but if you take your time you should be okay. How many tpi on the blade? For resawing it should be 3 - 4 teeth per inch. As Jack and others said, a band saw requires some fussing to get it set up right. A misadjustment that might not be noticeable on smaller stock can make a big difference when trying to resaw a taller piece.

Don

[Norman Bernstein]

An article in a fairly recent Fine Woodworking magazine was written by a professional cabinet maker, and was devoted to the issue of resawing. He also endorsed the use of a 3 TPI skiptooth blade, 1/2" wide.

However, contrary to expectations, he argued for LOWER blade tension than normal, not higher. I don't recall the specific arguments, but it might be worthwhile checking out... as I recall, he said that he was able to resaw pretty much anything on a relatively inexpensive 14" bandsaw.

[Bruce Hooke]

I have a "wood slicer" blade from Highland Hardware on my 14" Delta and it does a fine job of resawing wood wider than what you are dealing with so assuming your blade was not defective it should be up to the job as long as it did not get damaged in some way once you put it into use. I've made 1/16" veneer from an 8" wide cherry boards on my saw, but my saw does also have a 1 HP motor under it. I'm using the stock, metal blade guides that came with the saw so I am obviously not that convinced that the various fancy replacement guide blocks are that necessary. I did replace the tension spring to allow me to get more tension on the blade. I know the recent Fine Woodworking article recommends going in the other direction, but so far I am not convinced. However, higher tension is probably not an option for you because a 12" saw is probably not going to be able to take the added load. The place that makes the replacment spring I am using (Iturra Design) does not even recommend using them on the 14" Jet, because he feels the frame is too weak.

It sounds like your blade may be shot, but one way to get confirmation of that might be to try cutting some 1" thick wood and see how well it cuts. If you get a smooth, clean cut on 1" wood then I think it's likely the blade is fine. If you do not then you know you've got problems with the blade.

I do suspect that with a 12" saw and a 1/2 HP motor you may have to go pretty slowly, and I am not as convinced as others here are that such a saw is up to routine resawing of 5" wide hardwood.

[BrianR]

As always, you guys bailed me out again. And, as usual, it was not the machine, it was the operator. Jack hit it right on when he pointed out that you shouldn't use a fence. You know, I always saw that rounded part that goes on a fence when you re-saw, but of course, I thought that was "dumb", right? How would one ever get a "straight" cut using that?! Well, when I removed the fence, loosened the tension, and went slowly - it worked just fine.

You guys are the best. Hope this thread helps out another novice like me.

Thanks again everyone.

[Jack Heinlen]

Glad it worked out Brian. The trick of no fence is right up there in bandsaw lore. ;)

Give a look the next time you're at a woodworking store for a book on bandsaws. Reading other's experience can make you a better woodworker, and make things easier too. smile.gif

[Mrleft8]

You shouldn't use a fence?!!! :eek: :confused: Damn! I've been resawing for 25 years the wrong way?!! Come to think of it.....I better call up Jim Krenov, and tell him he's been doing it wrong for the last 60 years...

[ssor]

I like to use a pivot point as tall as the board you are resawing. Keeps the stick vertical but allows me to follow a scribed line.

[Jack Heinlen]

O golly, "no fence" has opened a can of worms. smile.gif

To be honest, I've never used a bandsaw that had a fence. In resawing light stock having a point to guide on has been it. You angle the stock a bit, and adjust as the saw moves through. But I'm open to a fence. If it works for you Doug, and Krenov, who am I to argue?

[Chadd Hamilton]

I hate to chime in this late in the game, but Brian I have the same Jet 12" BS as you and I've found it difficult to resaw most hardwoods of any width with it.

My approcach has been to use my tablesaw with one of the 8" Dewalt finishing blades(for circular saws) to resaw as much as possible and then take the piece to the bandsaw and finish it off. This is followed by a run through a thickness planer to clean things up. Just my $.02

Chadd

[Bruce Hooke]

I've tried resawing with a fence and with various kinds of point-guides. My take is:

1. The point guide system works well but does take attention and focus to do a good job.

2. A straight fence can work well too IF you either adjust the angle of the fence to allow for blade drift or adjust the saw to get rid of the drift.

3. A straight fence DOES NOT work if you do not pay attention to blade drift.

Note: Blade drift is the tendency of the blade to angle slightly one way or the other. Thus it will either try to angle towards the fence or away from the fence and make a complete mess of the cut. You can get a good sense of what the blade wants to do by cutting into a piece of wood (running against a fence) until the back of the blade is just flush with the back of the piece of wood. Turn off the saw and look to see if the back edge of the blade is centered in the saw kerf...

[Ken Hutchins]

Blade drift can be eliminated. The blade must be slightly foreward of the center of the crown on the od of the wheels, slightly foreward is necessary to get the set of the teeth on a lower part of the crown by the amount of the set. Proper blade tension and wheel tilt is necessary. Always adjust the blade centering and tension with the guides completely clear of the blade. Wheel tilt will affect tension so attention to both of these must be made at the same time. Then after the blade runs free on the 'sweet spot' of the wheels with the proper tension adjust the guides, the back first, then the sides. A properly set saw will cut straight with or without a fence.

[Paulyboy]

Great description Ken. I found out oiver the weekend that I am apparently using the resaw fence on the wrong side of the fence. I put mine to the inside of the blade so the thinner piece will fall free toward me on the outside of the blade- the same concept as always keeping the thinner piece of wood to the outside of a table saw blade, whether that piece is the keeper or the waste.

[Mrleft8]

Once again I must disagree pauly. First get your saw tuned up properly, so that it tracks straight, or at least compensate for blade drift by angling your fence. Set your fence to the distance away from the blade that you want your veneer (resawn stock) to be. Take a few test cuts with thin stock, about 1" thick or so, just to test your sizing, and to make sure your drift angle is correct if neccesary. Make your cuts in the actual stock you want to use. No resetting the fence or anything. I think you might need a little band saw tune up. Even a little underpowered saw can give great results if you take the time to set it up properly.

[Bruce Hooke]

Ummm, I think the last two posts are saying basically the same thing, which is to 'put' the piece you want to keep between the fence and blade, with the waste outside (to the right of) the blade? (That's what I do.)