2 1/2" Radius epoxy fillet?

[ccx2]

The designer calls for 2 1/2" radius fillets on the inside of chines and transoms on the Garvey im building. Seems LARGE to me , is it? The stir / fillet sticks that i have from west give a 3/4" fillet, is there a tool for making 2 1/2" that any of you know of or is this something i have to wing it on, Like maybe my wife's gravy ladle would work well.

[The Bigfella]

We cut a 2" radius out of a piece of tin to do the fillets on the keel of my Yellowtail. I'll find a photo. Not sure if I have a shot of the tool, but I do of the fillets.

[The Bigfella]

Here's a shot.

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff112/igatenby/g2.jpg

and here's what I used to sand it... a piece of 4" black steel pipe. It just happened to have the hole in it. The pipe made it very easy to sand the fillets.

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff112/igatenby/g5.jpg

[JimConlin]

Whatever works.
I've applied large fillets like that with purpose-made plywood or plastic templates, PVC pipe and plastic bondo spreaders. Particularly with large fillets, I try to minimize the need for sanding by applying the fillet and the glass in one go. Peelply helps in smoothing out the glass and the fillet.

[ccx2]

Ok thanks guys, i guess ill make me a homemade widget . Good idea with the pvc pipe tool and the pipe sander. Sounds like the plan.

[erster]

That sounds like a huge fillet for that boat and quite a bit of epoxy which is nothng more than a filler to maximize the strength of the fiberglass that I take you plan on using over the fillet. If indeed you plan on using glass over the fillet, I would consider a smaller amount of thickened epoxy and use a double layer of structual glass. You can also use a good biaxall glass in that area which is stronger and more forgiving in that type of situation. Either way, in most cases, the fillets in those size runabouts are nothing more than to get the full strength in the glass by not starving or creating a dry area in the transition from one component to the other. Pictures? Do your glasswork also when the thickened epoxy is in the green stage, thats when it is either skinned over or when you can still compress a dimple in the mix for proper bonding. If you apply your glass clean enough, then this helps the issue of the nasty sanding if you do not use any of the peelply or like product.

[boylesboats]

The designer calls for 2 1/2" radius fillets on the inside of chines and transoms on the Garvey im building. Seems LARGE to me , is it? The stir / fillet sticks that i have from west give a 3/4" fillet, is there a tool for making 2 1/2" that any of you know of or is this something i have to wing it on, Like maybe my wife's gravy ladle would work well.

Dang that thick? How wide of tape it called for?
Epoxy fillet along is not strong without the tape or cloth...

[Ray Frechette Jr]

That sounds like a huge fillet for that boat and quite a bit of epoxy which is nothng more than a filler to maximize the strength of the fiberglass that I take you plan on using over the fillet. If indeed you plan on using glass over the fillet, I would consider a smaller amount of thickened epoxy and use a double layer of structual glass. You can also use a good biaxall glass in that area which is stronger and more forgiving in that type of situation. Either way, in most cases, the fillets in those size runabouts are nothing more than to get the full strength in the glass by not starving or creating a dry area in the transition from one component to the other. .

NOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!

Do not do a change without checking with the designer first.

He knows the engineered strength the design needs.

Increased radius increases the distance from the neutral axis.

DO NOT RE ENGINEER THIS ON YOUR OWN WITHOUT CHECKING WITH THE DESIGNER!!!!!



Think of it along the lines of an eye beam. The wider the eyebeam the more the strength. More filler bigger radius separates the structural fibers from one another more.

Erster's reccomendation may indeed be fine, but do your self a huge favor and have it ok'd by either the designer or a recognized naval architect first.

[erster]

I agree Ray to a point. But I am not sure if what he is saying truely is the actual fillet only.

[Ray Frechette Jr]

It is altogether possible the fillet size is for aesthetic issues only.

It just ought to be looked into first.

[JimD]

$500 worth of epoxy later...what garvey is this?

[erster]

The fillets should be below decks where beauty is not really in play. But anyway, two times the thickness of the planking max or scantlings has been the norm for the actual fillets, even in a true composite hull. . Feedback on any outside taping I have not seen. The glass is important. But if the glass is only finish cloth, no matter how thick the fillet there is no real structual integrity involved. And if you use biaxall, that glass works with a much smaller fillet. Six inch biaxall tabs is truely an overkill too but highly recommended for tape and glue construction, or stitch and glue for a 16 to 19 foot boat. His boat IIRC incorporates wood for a keel.

[boylesboats]

$500 worth of epoxy later...what garvey is this?

Awfully heavy too

[erster]

FWIW and I am surely not firmly in the corner that the size is correct, but this is exactly what he should be dealing with in his build, working successfully in more than one hull. Again, read several times and give us more feedback. Pictures would really help from you here.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/Bateau1/Garveybowtaped.jpg

[boylesboats]

Well, I see gaps around the bow. Beveling the bow piece will help cut down epoxy usage..

[Bruce Hooke]

Keep in mind that if the pieces being joined come together at a fairly "open" angle then a 2 1/2" radius fillet may not be that thick. For example, if the pieces come together at 130 degrees then a 2 1/2" radius fillet will only be 1/4" thick.

Most Garveys seem to have fairly vertical sides, in which case this would not apply. However, I believe some have more flare to the sides.

[erster]

Well, I see gaps around the bow. Beveling the bow piece will help cut down epoxy usage..
Thats not his boat. That piece that is showing as the bow transom was in the rough in stage and got fitted after all the fillets were done. You need to measure for trueness of both sides and also getting it upright across the piece before locking it in place.

[erster]

Keep in mind that if the pieces being joined come together at a fairly "open" angle then a 2 1/2" radius fillet may not be that thick. For example, if the pieces come together at 130 degrees then a 2 1/2" radius fillet will only be 1/4" thick.

Most Garveys seem to have fairly vertical sides, in which case this would not apply. However, I believe some have more flare to the sides.

The working garveys were straight sided for working but I modified them adding more flare for more interior room down the centerline when also adding wider covering boards and also for center console layouts and to help make them dryer in open water.

[eastern270]

I use the yellow plastic spreaders. Take a compass and set it to the correct radius and make an arc. Cut with a pair of scissors and fine tune it with some sandpaper. Clean it afterwards and you will be able to use it again.

[Bruce Hooke]

The working garveys were straight sided for working but I modified them adding more flare for more interior room down the centerline when also adding wider covering boards and also for center console layouts and to help make them dryer in open water.

So on your own Garveys a 2 1/2" radius fillet might not be very thick.

QED

[JimConlin]

Keep in mind that if the pieces being joined come together at a fairly "open" angle then a 2 1/2" radius fillet may not be that thick. For example, if the pieces come together at 130 degrees then a 2 1/2" radius fillet will only be 1/4" thick....
This is correct. For such an obtuse angle, the radius gets pretty large before there's any depth to the fillet. A big determinant of the strength of the joint is the distance between its glass skins and it's easy to make the joint too shallow.
It's a whole lot easier to understand if you draw a section of the joint.

[erster]

So on your own Garveys a 2 1/2" radius fillet might not be very thick.

QED
I do not use any rigid type pipe for fillets. The fillets will be more shallow than even a spreader that you can adjust the amount of glue as you go along with the ever changing angles or in my case a semi rigid putty knife shaped to a round edge with my grinder or varying sizes that I control throughout the full length of the area. I also use those so I can have a good handle and keep my hands away from the glues. I can also get in tight quarters that way.

IN straight sided boats and flat bottoms, the filets will indeed be thicker than in flared sides.

[James McMullen]

I agree with Ray Frechette. Unless you really know what you are doing, second guessing the designer is not the reason you paid him for those plans. Are you really willing to experiment away from the known, tried and true with the irreplaceable structure of your hull?

[erster]

I agree with Ray Frechette. Unless you really know what you are doing, second guessing the designer is not the reason you paid him for those plans. Are you really willing to experiment away from the known, tried and true with the irreplaceable structure of your hull?
I think there needs to be some clarification. Is the overall deminision from each edge of the radius 2 1/2" or the way I read it the plans called for a radiused fillet of 2 1/2" thick? The photo shows a full 3/4" thick x approx. 1 1/8" from edge to edge. The inquiry says 2 1/2" radius fillet which makes the thickness a chunk of glue for this boat design.

[ccx2]

Plans call for a 2 1/2" Radius fillet and three layers of tape 6",4", 3", inside and out. I also sheathed the outside with 7 1/2oz cloth. Wasnt planning on varying from plans, not knowledgeable enough , but even for a beginner it sounds like a big fillet. I figured it was to hold the tape in the radius.

[erster]

This is a 2 1/2" piece of pipe. With this moderate angle to the sides, the radius is 1 3/4" on a flat bottom decking unlike a suttle vee hull bottom. Using pipe this makes the glue thinner as you get foward with little glue left. If you do not hold the piece of pipe flat, you get less glue along the joint too. With a handled rig simular to a tongue depresser style, you can change the angle to allow more glue as your angle increases too. Also I do not create an absolute round such as this piece of pipe. This will actually starve the fillet even though your radius is round to your desired deminsion. The more layers of your glass will indeed be more forgiving for shallower fillets though. Some people are also using old cds too, even the old AOL ones that use to come in the mail soliciting sign ups sawing them on a bandsaw creating something like a handle too.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/Bateau1/DSC05679.jpg

[ccx2]

Thanks erster, that was going to be my next question , what exactly is a 2 1/2" radius, ya must be physic.:)

[erster]

Thanks erster, that was going to be my next question , what exactly is a 2 1/2" radius, ya must be physic.:)
Well I will admit that when you use the term radius this can also be a bit confusing. So in your initial post this did appear to be the thickness if you look at this pie chart.;) Like I stated earlier, thats a lot of thickened glue.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1d/CIRCLE_1.svg/180px-CIRCLE_1.svg.png

[The Bigfella]

How can such a simple concept be complicated so much?

Cut a piece of tin or plastic to that radius and whack the damn fillet in. Forget about looking at a circle to work out how thick your fillet is. You need to draw the hull angle on to that if you want to know how thick the fillet will be.

If you want to have a perfect filleting tool, weld or silver solder a ball of the desired radius onto a rod - I have one like that on the boat, but it only has a ball bearing of about 3/4" diameter... for doing small fillets. The angle never changes asa you go around bends.

[The Bigfella]

I just grabbed a set of dividers and a right angle. The maximum thickness of a 2 1/2" radius fillet on a right angle join is roughly 15/16". It is not a lot of filler. Epoxy is about the cheapest thing on a boat.

[erster]

How can such a simple concept be complicated so much?

Cut a piece of tin or plastic to that radius and whack the damn fillet in. Forget about looking at a circle to work out how thick your fillet is. You need to draw the hull angle on to that if you want to know how thick the fillet will be.

If you want to have a perfect filleting tool, weld or silver solder a ball of the desired radius onto a rod - I have one like that on the boat, but it only has a ball bearing of about 3/4" diameter... for doing small fillets. The angle never changes asa you go around bends.
Well according to all math books and the wiki link that I pulled the pie chart from, radius is defined as a direct line half the diameter. A fillet is a curved surface which needs to be measured in this particular situation entirely different if we are to believe the link.. You are not measuring a direct line here thats half a circle.


More generally — in geometry (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geometry), science (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Science), engineering (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engineering), and many other contexts — the radius of something (e.g., a cylinder (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cylinder_(geometry)), a polygon (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polygon), a mechanical part, or a galaxy (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galaxy)) usually refers to the distance (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Distance) from its center (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Center_(geometry)) or axis of symmetry (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Axis_of_symmetry) to its outermost points. If the object does not have an obvious center, the term may refer to its circumradius, the radius of its circumscribed circle (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Circumscribed_circle) or circumscribed sphere (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Circumscribed_sphere). In either case, the radius may be more than half


If you read up in the earlier post, I commented on the measurement from edge to edge.

[DuncanvdH]

Isn't it possible to incorporate a small plastic pipe/tube inside the fillet to reduce the volume of epoxy?

[The Bigfella]

Isn't it possible to incorporate a small plastic pipe/tube inside the fillet to reduce the volume of epoxy?

That would just provide another potential failure point - and a place for moisture to condense. For what? To save $10 worth of epoxy?

[pipefitter]

Isn't it possible to incorporate a small plastic pipe/tube inside the fillet to reduce the volume of epoxy?

I imagine one could possibly install an epoxy compatible fiberglass roving into the joint. If the design was reliant on a consistent throat of a fillet throughout, the roving would assure that it was not allowed to get below an ideal minimum. The legs of the fillet could then naturally fit the hull without much effect on the throat depth. Being as it is a good practice to prime the joints with unthickened epoxy, could wet out the roving all in one step. Once it kicks enough to where the roving is somewhat secure, follow up with the fillet to cover the glass roving and subsequent tapes. It would likely be a bombproof joint and overkill to boot but stranger things have been done.

Edited to add: No, it probably isn't practical or necessary, nor will it save any $, but there may be a time where it could be beneficial to do so and it is likely someone could develop efficient process to make it work. Other than that, the notion may apply to other situations of structural importance and considerations of structural and aesthetic consistancy.

[The Bigfella]

Perhaps this will help.

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff112/igatenby/iansecond/epoxy.jpg

See, the yellow bit in one corner is the epoxy fillet.

If you are really worried about the volume of epoxy, work it out. Measure the length to be filleted. The volume of the fillet will be (((5 x 5) x length)- ((22/7 x 2.5 x 2.5) x length)/4), assuming my maths is right - which, for a 60" length of fillet works out at about 80 cubic inches of epoxy mix. 1 US pint is about 29 cubic inches, so, about one quart of epoxy and a bit of filler to do 5'. Using local prices, that's about $23 worth of West resin, about $5 for hardener and say $10 for filler. $38 for 5' of materials.... and.... about $100 worth of labor time to do it.

[boylesboats]

Thats not his boat. That piece that is showing as the bow transom was in the rough in stage and got fitted after all the fillets were done. You need to measure for trueness of both sides and also getting it upright across the piece before locking it in place.

Ooooooh :o sorry...

[erster]

Perhaps this will help.

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff112/igatenby/iansecond/epoxy.jpg

See, the yellow bit in one corner is the epoxy fillet.

If you are really worried about the volume of epoxy, work it out. Measure the length to be filleted. The volume of the fillet will be (((5 x 5) x length)- ((22/7 x 2.5 x 2.5) x length)/4), assuming my maths is right - which, for a 60" length of fillet works out at about 80 cubic inches of epoxy mix. 1 US pint is about 29 cubic inches, so, about one quart of epoxy and a bit of filler to do 5'. Using local prices, that's about $23 worth of West resin, about $5 for hardener and say $10 for filler. $38 for 5' of materials.... and.... about $100 worth of labor time to do it.
Cute drawing but not applicable to a boat unless you are building most Bolger boats. ;);) The fillet will be starved if you use this method and the glass will be weaker. Read Bruce's reply and inquiry for further reference.

If indeed the plans clearly state that you create :


create a 2 1/2" radius epoxy fillet,

that is actually quite possibly an oversight in wording. For sure thats a pretty weak structual joint using your example too. Its worse than I thought in the opposite direction. Its quite possible you will have some air pockets when the glue dries unless you nurse the glass work or basically babysit the glass during the curing process.

[bloggs68]

is there a tool for making 2 1/2" that any of you know of or is this something i have to wing it on, Like maybe my wife's gravy ladle would work well.

I use metal paint scrapers ground down to the desired radius as seen below
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h131/bloggs1968/filletingtools.jpg

They give a really nice , clean edge to the fillet and last forever.

Bigfella, I like that ball bearing idea - I'll have to give it a go.

AD

[erster]

I use metal paint scrapers ground down to the desired radius as seen below
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h131/bloggs1968/filletingtools.jpg

They give a really nice , clean edge to the fillet and last forever.

Bigfella, I like that ball bearing idea - I'll have to give it a go.

AD
Thats what I use and can "add" glue in varible and changing angles by the way that I hold it.

[ccx2]

bloggs68, i would imagine a pool ball would work well also, easy to thread and screw some allthread into it. We use them for Crane levers that have small uncomfortable balls on the end of levers.

[ccx2]

erster, Big Fella, im bad at maff, so a 5" diameter would give a 2 1/2" radius?

[erster]

bloggs68, i would imagine a pool ball would work well also, easy to thread and screw some allthread into it. We use them for Crane levers that have small uncomfortable balls on the end of levers.
I would not place a ball bearing at the top of the list for tools. You need to clean your glue joint along the edges and tool, which makes your glasswork neater and better and smoother and with the putty knifes like or even a sanded stick. You do not want to end up with an extra glue line outside the edges of your fillet which happens. With the tool shown, you can use one tool to do the job and fits also in corners where you will never be able to sand properly either.

[The Bigfella]

If you are worried about not being able to clean up the "extra glue line" - and I don't know why you would be worried, because its real easy to do - lay some masking tape.

[The Bigfella]

Keep in mind that if the pieces being joined come together at a fairly "open" angle then a 2 1/2" radius fillet may not be that thick. For example, if the pieces come together at 130 degrees then a 2 1/2" radius fillet will only be 1/4" thick.

Most Garveys seem to have fairly vertical sides, in which case this would not apply. However, I believe some have more flare to the sides.


Cute drawing but not applicable to a boat unless you are building most Bolger boats. ;);) The fillet will be starved if you use this method and the glass will be weaker. Read Bruce's reply and inquiry for further reference.

If indeed the plans clearly state that you create :


that is actually quite possibly an oversight in wording. For sure thats a pretty weak structual joint using your example too. Its worse than I thought in the opposite direction. Its quite possible you will have some air pockets when the glue dries unless you nurse the glass work or basically babysit the glass during the curing process.

Of course its not a very thick joint if the angle is wider than 90 degrees.... it is however a 2 1/2" radius fillet, which is what the designer is calling for.

Erster, what is this "opposite direction" you are on about? Please tell me you don't seriously think that a 2 1/2" radius fillet means 2 1/2" where I've drawn 15 / 16"?

[erster]

If you are worried about not being able to clean up the "extra glue line" - and I don't know why you would be worried, because its real easy to do - lay some masking tape.
The worry and intent from the beginning is that I want to make sure that I fillet and forget it, using all of the mixed product in the process too. Never make work out of work. Later,
edited to add the opposite is that the thickness of the actual glue fillet is less than my original comment of the joint being too thick, when you are filleting an semi vee surface. Read my original reply on this thread. Jim D also referenced this too.

[Ray Frechette Jr]

I am at a complete loss of understanding why a simple call to the designer is being resisted.

Maybe the 2 1/2 radius is a typo.

Maybe it is simply for some aesthetic the designer had in mind.

Maybe it is due to engineering to keep the neutral axis at a distance for the structure to succeed.

Without calling the designer anything is simply a guess generating more heat than light?

Call or emial the designer.

If he is deceased, run the plans by a Naval Architect for analysis.

Or, you could try your hand at Blind Dart board championship..

Or Blind Archery tournament.

The point is you don't know.

[The Bigfella]

The worry and intent from the beginning is that I want to make sure that I fillet and forget it, using all of the mixed product in the process too. Never make work out of work. Later,
edited to add the opposite is that the thickness of the actual glue fillet is less than my original comment of the joint being too thick, when you are filleting an semi vee surface. Read my original reply on this thread. Jim D also referenced this too.

Of course its thinner for a "semi vee surface". Do you think that maybe the designer actually knows that? Your first reply was a confusing 'do this - rather than what the designer calls for' type of reply.. viz..



That sounds like a huge fillet for that boat and quite a bit of epoxy which is nothng more than a filler to maximize the strength of the fiberglass that I take you plan on using over the fillet. If indeed you plan on using glass over the fillet, I would consider a smaller amount of thickened epoxy and use a double layer of structual glass. You can also use a good biaxall glass in that area which is stronger and more forgiving in that type of situation. Either way, in most cases, the fillets in those size runabouts are nothing more than to get the full strength in the glass by not starving or creating a dry area in the transition from one component to the other. Pictures? Do your glasswork also when the thickened epoxy is in the green stage, thats when it is either skinned over or when you can still compress a dimple in the mix for proper bonding. If you apply your glass clean enough, then this helps the issue of the nasty sanding if you do not use any of the peelply or like product.


It isn't, as you suggest in that post, a huge fillet.... as you now acknowledge.

ccx2... here's another photo that gives a bit of an idea of how it will look... you can pick out the shape of the fillet at the back of the keel. Sorry, I don't have any better photos. This is a 2" radius fillet. Yes, a 2 1/2" radius is a 5" wide spatula with a rounded end, as in my earlier diagram. Easy to make, easy to use, will give you what the designer calls for.

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff112/igatenby/iansecond/v9.jpg

[erster]

The 15/16" is not applicable unless you are doing a box corner. You are deflecting the topic to a hypothetical. This also does not apply to this job. The original post and my original reply was to create a follow up response for clarity. You can acknowledge this or selectively continue to take the same position of getting the last dig in here with no real meaning. Carry on sir. The photo that I provided shows a one step process with deminisons provided and others have also eluded to areas that may create too thick of a joint from their own understanding of the original inquiry, or may create a suspect joint that will be generated by using your method.

All fiberglass forums will have on an almost weekly basis posts that eludes to air bubbles in the glass tape, especially tape that is liteweight too. In the case of using biaxall glass tabs, this is minimized, but in most cases this is generated by a starved or extreme turn in the tape without enough glue along the seam that is generated by the angles of the two components, in this case the sides and the bottom.

The same thing happens on the outside turns too if the edge is not rounded enough. I did not start doing fillets yesterday. I am very aware of the boat design but have never read the building instructions.


We have nothing but general information and continue to have on this particular build with zero photos in all the steps along the way. Now you guys can have the last word. I have my own fillets to run in my own horror show.:cool::)

[The Bigfella]

The boat that I have included photos of had the air bubbles that you describe in the glass ... because the builder had not filleted the joins. I've just finished fixing those bubbles - by grinding them all out, filletting the joins and then re-glassing.

I'm not in the slightest bit interested in having the last word Mike, just in making sure this person doesn't get sent down the wrong path with modifications to the designers instructions by someone who, as you say, has "never read the building instructions".

ccx2 - sorry mate, don't get put off, do a short run and see just how easy it is to do. The main thing is to build yourself a nice, fair spatula. Lay the fillet, sand it, fill any small bubbles you have (if any), sand it again and glass it.

Or, do it with peel ply. I think West had an article on doing that on their site not too long back. It might be worth a look.

Here's a link to their basic filleting technique

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/bonding-gluing-clamping/

edited to add ... its worth watching the video on that linked page. I guess that's about a 1/2" to 3/4" radius fillet that he lays down - much smaller than what we are talking about, but the same concept applies

[erster]

For anyone interested, this is the shape that I eluded to and generates for me a curved fillet in a greater than 90 degree build and will leave you with enough glue without creating many of the issues of release in the most extreme area of the turn. As stated, I also work the fillet in the green stage after the glue is semi hard so that the fillet will not move but its also workable too with some persuation. Just ease the center most point. For one and all, YMMV, Now to work
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/Bateau1/DSC05681.jpg

[RFNK]

It's worth pointing out that a fillet is strong whether it's glassed over later or not. Filling a fillet with bits of tube or whatever to save epoxy or filler is not a good idea as this will seriously weaken this structural element. Some people do use fillets simply to round out an internal corner for aesthetic purposes or to aid in glassing but many fillets are never glassed over - they are structural elements in themselves and, even if it is going to be glassed over, the whole job is going to be much stronger if the fillet is made properly.

I also agree that there seems to be a lot of fuss being made about something very simple here. I wish every job was as easy and straightforward as filleting! Rick

[Ray Frechette Jr]

Lay the fillet, sand it, fill any small bubbles you have (if any), sand it again and glass it.




OK, I Guess, If you like multiple steps and sanding and such....

I usually wet out the wood, lay down the fillet and let it start to firm up a bit then lay the tape down and wet the tape out as well.

No sanding between steps. no full cure between steps. One day job.

[John of Phoenix]

Add a layer of peel-ply to Ray's process and you'll have a perfectly smooth fillet with no finishing or filling coats at all. Slick.

[JimConlin]

Add a layer of peel-ply to Ray's process and you'll have a perfectly smooth fillet with no finishing or filling coats at all. Slick.
There's an echo in here.

I find I can get the fillet and glass tooled out more smoothly after the peel ply is on it, so I don't wait for the bog to start to stiffen.

[John of Phoenix]

There's an echo in here.

I find I can get the fillet and glass tooled out more smoothly after the peel ply is on it, so I don't wait for the bog to start to stiffen.
Echo indeed. :D And I agree, fillet, tape and peel-ply as quickly as it can be done.

Why peel-ply isn't more widely used, I'll never understand. I've seen it mentioned here once or twice and that's it. Norm Messinger was a big proponent based on his airplane experience. Airplane guys wouldn't dream of NOT using it. No extra fill coats so it saves epoxy. No sanding so it saves tons of tedium. No blush to fuss with. It's fast, cheap and clean. No brainer.

:confused: BTW, where am I? :confused: This isn't the Bilge. :eek: How'd I get here? :confused:

[htom]

Pool ball will be too small; 2.5" radius is not nearly as large as it sounds (see Bigfella's excellent drawing.) Slow-pitch softball is about 2" radius. Easiest is probably to go to the local auto parts store with a tape measure and find a plastic funnel that's 5" across the top.

[Captain Blight]

gravy ladle would work well.
A ladle would indeed work very well. Foodservice ladles are hemispherical stainless steel, with a stainless handle tack-welded on--and well, too; i think I've only ever seen one handle fail. Any restaurant-supply house will have a grand selection of foodservice ladles, in sizes from 2 fluid ounces (About an inch across) to two cups at maybe five and half inches in diameter. They'll be a little spendy, but you also get an accurate volumetric measuring tool; and in a pinch, could use them for serving soup.

[James McMullen]

Please, my friends, let's not make the simplest possible way to build a boat any more complex. Cut or grind or sand a stick or puttyknife or something to the radius the designer specifies. Squooge in the goo using that stick and tape over it. Done! So easy, just about anyone can do it. I'll be building a stitch & glue Devlin design for a demonstration at the Anacortes Waterfront Festival May 17-18 using these techniques--anyone nearby who wants to see how it's done, come on down. It's really not that hard. You can put on a pair of gloves, dig in and help if you want, even.

[ccx2]

OK, ive wrote the designer to ask if thats the size he intends. From reading all you replys im quite certain it will be. The angles in my chine are about 65 degrees in the stern to about 35 degrees in the bow area so that will only make the fillet about 3/4" thick in the stern and thinner as it moves forward. Im assuming the rear transom will get the same fillet and tapeing. Thanks

[StevenBauer]

Seems like a huge fillet to me. Is this an offshore racing powerboat? ;)


Steven