glue / oil finish compatibility on floorboards question

[David Bixby]

I'm constructing floorboards for my CLC Skerry and I need some opinions from experienced builders on how I plan to fasten and finish them.

I am using 1/2" thick light mahogany planks . The planks are screwed to cross cleats to assemble them into panels. My current plan is to use bronze screws and Gorilla glue to fasten the planks to the cleats and then finish the whole panel with watco teak oil. Will the oil and the glue get along well together? Is there a better glue to use for this application. I don't want to rely on screws alone because the cleats range from 1/2" to 1" high and don't provide much wood for the screws to bite into. I would like to use an adhesive that could be released in the future if I ever have to replace a plank. Am I correct in my belief that Gorrila glue will release with heat?

[Bob Smalser]

Originally posted by David Bixby:
1) Will the oil and the glue get along well together? Is there a better glue to use for this application.

2) I don't want to rely on screws alone because the cleats range from 1/2" to 1" high and don't provide much wood for the screws to bite into. I would like to use an adhesive that could be released in the future if I ever have to replace a plank.

3) Am I correct in my belief that Gorrila glue will release with heat?1) Once the glue has cured oil won't affect it. You can finish the piece before gluing provided you don't contaminate the glue joints with glue, which won't stick to it well.

2) I'd cut shallow dado's on the tablesaw to provide the strength you are looking for and avoid the glue entirely for ease of repair. Doesn't take much of a shoulder to add a tremendous amount of strength, you've enough room in even half-inch stock.

3) Risky. Dunno, but I doubt it. Test it first on scraps. I know steam doesn't work as the glue is waterproof. Epoxy is easily released with heat in metal to wood joints but the issue is the near impossibility of avoiding scorching the wood in properly-done wood to wood joints.

[ 12-28-2004, 11:53 AM: Message edited by: Bob Smalser ]

[Mrleft8]

Gluing a cross grain butt joint isn't going to add much strength. I'd avoid Gorrilla glue on anything you might want to disassemble in the future. How about rivets if you think there's not enough stock for a good purchase with screws?
Watco oil is not good for exterior work. If you want an oiled look, go with boiled linseed oil....Multiple coats,soaked in.

[htom]

Dados, 1/8" (or even 3/16") in both cleat and floorboard will mean that the screws are only locking the joint, not forming the joint.

You could use bolts and t-nuts inset into the underside of the cleats if you don't want dados.

[David Bixby]

Thanks everyone. Great ideas. That's the stuff I need to hear.

[imported_Steven Bauer]

I second the rivet idea. I was a little leery of rivetting until I tried it. It was fun and easy! After two or three practice rivets I was set. Now I go around looking for things to rivet together. smile.gif

Steven

[Bruce Hooke]

Others have made some excellent suggestions on how to avoid the glue issue altogther and that is the direction I would try to go if you want to allow for future disassambly. If you do decide to use glue then:

I'm not sure which sort of compatibility you are worried about (glue to oil or oil to glue):

1. I can't think of a glue that is even vaguely suitable for marine use that would be affected by linseed oil or any other oil finish (as long as the glue has cured before the finish is applied, or if the finish is applied first then as long as the areas to be glued are kept free of any oil).

2. Pretty much any oil finish you can come up with will not stick well to areas where there is any sort of glue that is suitable for marine use (there are some oddball glues I've seen that do not show under an oil finish but they are water soluable). So, you will need to be careful about glue squeeze-out. I expect you've run into this problem before...

- Bruce

[JimConlin]

The fact that some glues, including epoxies, are softened by heat won't be much help in separating these joints later. Wood is a good insulator and it would take a _lot_ of warming before the heat penetrated in to the glueline. Heat IS useful in removing squeeze-out and potted fastenings.

I'd think that a very shallow dado and a couple of screws per crossing would be fully adequate.