Bevelator 1000

[Rational Root]

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-jLgHzfXWAU/ScjWBOhua2I/AAAAAAAABDY/Z0njAQpn6m0/s400/bevelator1000.JPG

I really should have taken a picture, but this should give you the general idea.

An aluminium strip is bolted to the side of the planer (there's a hole for bolting on a parallel guide).

The strip is edge down.

You alternately plane the chine and the keel, with the edge resting on the other. Take off a bit at a time and voila.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-jLgHzfXWAU/Scamx-9nlXI/AAAAAAAABCI/nW8IWcFZqIs/s400/IMG_0435.jpg

[Thorne]

Clever! Like the name, too. Be sure to follow it with, "Not available in Stores!"

;0 )

[Canoez]

Very much the approach that Tom Hill uses in his Ultralight Boatbuilding book for beveling lapstrake planking. He screws a piece of stock to the side of a block plane. (A hole tapped in the side of the plane just for that purpose.) The adjacent ribband is used as a guide to get the rolling bevel right.

Works like a charm.

[Rational Root]

Clever! Like the name, too. Be sure to follow it with, "Not available in Stores!"

;0 )

I could patent it, but anyone who needs it would not buy it, they would just make their own. :rolleyes:

[Robert W. Long]

Besides "not available in stores" also include the disclaimer "chine and keel not included"

[Rational Root]

Besides "not available in stores" also include the disclaimer "chine and keel not included"

Or perhaps "half built boat not included", or as my wife might put it, "Junk taking up most of my back garden not included"

D

[Bill Perkins]

When using ply sheets for the bottom I wonder if it's best to work the bevelator normal to the curve of the chine or perpendicular to the keel ? I think one or the other would allow the ply to lay a bit tighter to the structure (produce more acurate bevels ). Maybe this is academic with epoxies gap filling ability .

My V bottom had 1 by 4 bottom plank set at about 20 deg. rake relative to the keel . I carefully faired between keel and chine checking with a straightedge held perpendicular to the keel . Perfect! When I went to glue and nail the raked planks on ,there were gaps ! The bevel wasn't quite right , but close enough with the thick T88. I should have checked for fair at the same angle the planks were applied at .This makes me wonder if something similar will happen when the ply sheets are sprung in place . Just a question of using a bit more epoxy ,still I'd be interested to know which you did and if any gaps occurred .

[paladin]

Ya gotta think this one thru a little more....you must take alternate swipes off the keel and the chine other wise the angle changes just a little if you do first one and then the other....we used that system 30 years ago and the corralary to that is connected to a small skill saw to cut bevels in plank frames during carvel construction, trim two planks at once to mate....

[Rational Root]

Yep:

You alternately plane the chine and the keel, with the edge resting on the other. Take off a bit at a time and voila.



Ya gotta think this one thru a little more....you must take alternate swipes off the keel and the chine other wise the angle changes just a little if you do first one and then the other....we used that system 30 years ago and the corralary to that is connected to a small skill saw to cut bevels in plank frames during carvel construction, trim two planks at once to mate....

[Rational Root]

I think that the glen l book deals with this. It's solution is the Rable Method. From where the the main curve starts in the ply, you mark off the keel in even lengths and then the chine in the same number of even lengths. The lengths on the keel will not be the same as the lengths on the chine. Number them and fair across 1-1, 2-2, etc this give the correct curve. This is not normal to the keel.

This may help

http://www.glen-l.com/picboards/picboard7/pic425b.html

Then again, epoxy is wonderful stuff ;-)

Dave


When using ply sheets for the bottom I wonder if it's best to work the bevelator normal to the curve of the chine or perpendicular to the keel ? I think one or the other would allow the ply to lay a bit tighter to the structure (produce more acurate bevels ). Maybe this is academic with epoxies gap filling ability .

My V bottom had 1 by 4 bottom plank set at about 20 deg. rake relative to the keel . I carefully faired between keel and chine checking with a straightedge held perpendicular to the keel . Perfect! When I went to glue and nail the raked planks on ,there were gaps ! The bevel wasn't quite right , but close enough with the thick T88. I should have checked for fair at the same angle the planks were applied at .This makes me wonder if something similar will happen when the ply sheets are sprung in place . Just a question of using a bit more epoxy ,still I'd be interested to know which you did and if any gaps occurred .

[Tom Robb]

What on earth is that tiller/rudder gizmo on the Glen-L Bo Jest?

[Rational Root]

What on earth is that tiller/rudder gizmo on the Glen-L Bo Jest?

If you mean this
http://www.glen-l.com/picboards/picboard17/pic928-7.jpg
then I have no idea, I just linked to his site because of the image of the fairing.

But wow !?!

[Tom Robb]

Yes, that thing.
It's the oddest looking rudder/tiller I ever saw.
It loks like it was designed by someone who heard about rudders but never saw one.
I wonder if it's per the plans. If I get bored, I'l go to the Glen-L site and have a look.

[Tom Robb]

Just looked at Glen-L's site.
BoJest's rudder is inboard, not transom mounted or whatever that thing is.
Hmmm. Very creative.