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Jim Surdyke
10-18-2001, 01:37 AM
Having gotten two very large quotes from boat yards ($20K to 30K )to strip and paint the topsides of my ketch, I looked for a way for me to perform the work without putting myself in the hospital.

The biggest task was to remove 66 years of paint off of the hull and do it in a manner that did not require a lot of fairing during finishing . At 65' long, I was looking at a lot of old paint. Additionally, I wanted to do the work in the water, as I did not want to have her on the hard for the length of time I expected it would take and also, the $260.00 per day lay day charge would add up to significant sums in short order.

I purchased a Fein 6" orbital sander, but the inability to find 36 or 40 grit for the machine really made the job too slow. Klingspor sells 60 grit, but it wasn't agressive enough to use as the primary remover.

After reading a report in Practical Sailor, I decided to try Peel Away paint stripper. It is advertised for bottom paint but I
gave it a try on my topsides. While it did not perform as advertised, It was succesful and I have now complely stripped the port side.

The biggest problem I had was getting the stripper on as thick as was recommended.
I used a wall paper paste brush but still could not get the thickness correct. There is a direct corelation to thickness of stripper and number of coats it will remove.

After the stripper is applied, you cover the paste with their special Peel Away paper. This prevents the stripper from drying out prematurely. I would apply stripper to about 10' of hull in the morning, and the next morning it was ready to be removed. Removal of the paper would bring one or two coats with the paper. I then stapled plastic sheet to the boot stripe and to the finger pier and proceeded to scrape about five more layers of paint off. The stripper softened the paint so that it came off rather easily.
The plastic caught the peelings and made clean up easy.

I then used the Fein sander with 60 grit to remove the last vestiges of paint and fillers.

The result was that it took me 22 hours to remove all of the paint, fairing compound etc. down to bare wood on the port side, and the wood is smooth enough that it is ready for sanding with 100 grit, then 150, CPES and painting.

I used two gallons of Peel Away ($59.95 retail) and two extra packets of paper, ($9.95 each.)

My next step is to redo all of the seams.

All in all, I am very satisfied with the product and believe it saved me a ton of money, a lot of hard labor and a significant amount of time.

Art Read
10-18-2001, 02:58 AM
$20 - $30K!!!!!??? I'm in the wrong business!

rbgarr
10-18-2001, 06:26 AM
Jim,

Thanks for the description of your experience with Peel Away. I've got a 20 outboard with several layers of up to 20 year old bottom paint to remove. I've got a gallon of the Peel Away to do it with. The work will have to be done on an over head rack (sort of like a raised axle-less bunk trailer). Did you try applying the goop with a heavy nap roller, by chance? Any suggestions for getting thick coverage? Temperature? Moisture level in paint?

Tom Jackson
10-18-2001, 07:15 AM
This product was favorably reviewed in WB No. 136, May/June, 1997 (page 116), by Phil Graf.

Ed Harrow
10-18-2001, 11:22 AM
What Art said.

Finding anything coarser than 60 in round discs for these various sanders (PC random orbital in my case) does seem to be a very hit or miss affair. I was able to get some 40, made by Norton I believe, at a painter's supply store in Weymouth, MA.

dasboat
10-18-2001, 11:28 AM
Jim,others,Gatsby's hull is in need of wooding soon.I have always used the heat and scrape method,which is pretty fast in my view.
Can youse guys contrast the two methods?
Always looking for a better way. http://media5.hypernet.com/~dick/ubb/biggrin.gif
Darryl

rbgarr
10-18-2001, 11:40 AM
Tom-

Thanks for the reference. When I looked up the article I found that I'd already marked it. XANADU, the 50' teak yawl referred to is one that I knew from Cape Cod and sailed aboard once in SF Bay.

gbove
10-25-2001, 02:19 PM
I used PeelAway on an antique pine door and on an old oak plant stand. It worked great on numerous coats of alkyd/lead house paint. The only problem was that I did not neutralize the caustic well enough. The remaining caustic ruined the varnish on the table, and made a few flaws in the paint of the door. I would suggest that before you repaint, you actually buy the suggested acid-- and use it twice.

Concordia41
10-25-2001, 03:17 PM
Darryl:

Program A: Sanding - Tyvek suit over jeans and long sleeved shirt, boots, gloves, full respirator - two people parts of two days - over $100 in sand paper = less than 1/4 of hull wooded and two very miserable people

Program B: Heat gun - Jeans and long sleeved shirt - evenings after work for most of a month = rest of hull wooded

Sounds like you've started with the easy way.

For anyone that insists on doing it the hard way, I think we got 36 grit from Lewis Supply

I couldn't get their on-line catalog to pull up anything, but they'll mail you one. Lots of other good stuff...

http://www.theonlinecatalog.com/lewissupply/

dasboat
10-25-2001, 06:18 PM
Concordia,thanks.How does the plan b method compare with the peel away stuff?
I figger a boat slave would know http://media5.hypernet.com/~dick/ubb/biggrin.gif

Bob Cleek
10-25-2001, 08:49 PM
God, I don't know who's the bigger rip off... the yard that quoted $30K or the guys that sell stripper for $60 a gallon! Now, you can do the other side the easy way.

Get a five gallon propane tank and rig it with a spud so you can snap an air hose to it. Get a gas torch and put a spud on the end of that. Now you have a propane torch on a long air hose. Get some sharp triangular scrapers and some leather welder's gloves. Use the torch to soften the paint and the scraper to remove it. (The scrapings will harden when they cool and you can sweep them up, unlike the nasty chemical stuff.)

Then, get a Makita 2000 RPM POLISHER (not their sander, which looks just like it but runs too fast.) Put a 8-10" Scotch foam sanding pad on it. Spray sandpaper stickum on the pad and lay it on a standard sheet of sandpaper and cut around the edge with a box knife (getting harder to come by these days, I know.) Sand away. The standard sandpaper sheets are WAY cheaper than hook and loop or even pre-cut sticky sheets any you have the scrap left over for little hand sanding jobs.

This is how the yard would have done it and they would have made a BIG profit, given what they quoted you.