An Early Spring Overnighter in the San Juans

[James McMullen]

I managed to get away Friday afternoon for an early-season overnight cruise in my newly acquired Stone Horse named Phoebe. My friends Andy and Grady had already been out there for the last few days, so Andy's daughter Claire hitched a ride with me to meet them at James Island State Park.

Andy's boat is a 36' Winslow Yawl built in 1962. Named Windsong, she is easy to pick out as the boat with the tallest wooden mainmast in all of Cap Sante Marina!

http://inlinethumb58.webshots.com/15225/2960132480088484686S600x600Q85.jpg (http://sports.webshots.com/photo/2960132480088484686RRqCLA)

My little Phoebe is an Edey and Duff built version of the 1931 Sam Crocker design. Although she is 28' LOA, she looks pretty tiny compared to the mighty yawl.

http://inlinethumb18.webshots.com/44497/2637883610088484686S600x600Q85.jpg (http://sports.webshots.com/photo/2637883610088484686PylCrs)

I didn't bring a dinghy myself, as I knew I was heading for a rendezvous at a place that had a public dock, but Andy and Grady were towing this lovely little Oughtred Acorn tender, built traditional lapstrake, cedar on oak.

http://inlinethumb10.webshots.com/4809/2911136090088484686S600x600Q85.jpg (http://sports.webshots.com/photo/2911136090088484686KKyAIo)

[James McMullen]

We had a pleasant and placid sail over from Anacortes Friday, arriving in the twilight to find Windsong already tied to the dock, but we knew that some weather was coming. . . .and come it did soon after, with the gentle patter of rain. I have never owned a boat before that had its very own little stove--and now I can't reccommend them highly enough! This one is a Tiny Tot, and I've never been so cosy and comfortable sleeping aboard in the off season. What I did for fuel was to just load up a bag of cut-offs from behind the bandsaw--an inexhaustable supply in my shop.

http://inlinethumb29.webshots.com/44188/2901691970088484686S500x500Q85.jpg (http://sports.webshots.com/photo/2901691970088484686VEWsDS)

Andy and Grady had been living the hunter/gatherer lifestyle for the last few days, and they treated Claire and me to an absolute feast of freshly harvested goodies, Pacific Northwest style. We started with a dish of steamer clams, followed by fresh-caught rockfish tacos accompanied with braised nettles. I had had nettle tea before, but never eaten stinging nettle leaves before. (They don't sting once they've been sauteed in butter, garlic and lemon juice--taste quite a bit like fresh spinach, really.) For dessert we had a bittersweet chocolate and pear tart, baked in the propane oven. We repaid their culinary exploits by making sure they had plenty of fresh beers lined up, ready to go:

http://inlinethumb27.webshots.com/45210/2355253210088484686S600x600Q85.jpg (http://sports.webshots.com/photo/2355253210088484686cxocfY)

It rained all night, and all morning too. . . . .
So we mostly stayed inside, reading, playing cards and enjoying the woodstoves.
http://inlinethumb32.webshots.com/351/2061332350088484686S500x500Q85.jpg (http://sports.webshots.com/photo/2061332350088484686EmIgoR)http://inlinethumb19.webshots.com/43538/2178052040088484686S500x500Q85.jpg (http://sports.webshots.com/photo/2178052040088484686lzNdSO)

On the way back, there was the typical undeclared race us sailboaters are so inclined to engage in. Phoebe's crew chose to take the northern pass around the island, playing for the most favorable currents, where Windsong tried for the southern route, hoping to get the clearer wind. This tanker did a great job of knocking 'em back for us, forcing them to fall way off to keep clear, ha ha!

http://inlinethumb61.webshots.com/41724/2496007530088484686S600x600Q85.jpg (http://sports.webshots.com/photo/2496007530088484686zrJwve)

The trip across Rosario Strait was a little damp, but uneventful at first, though we knew that there were squalls a-coming so we put on all our foulies. http://inlinethumb06.webshots.com/9605/2742096300088484686S600x600Q85.jpg (http://sports.webshots.com/photo/2742096300088484686EdUFHl)

Unfortunately, I don't have any pictures of the rest of the trip because it was much too exciting. From about where the ferries dock up Guemes channel towards Cap Sante we progressively took in reefs until we were screeching along under furled jib, double-reefed main and stays'l. The big yawl took it down to jib and jigger and kept us in their lee which was comforting. I am very pleased with the Stone Horse's qualities under less placid conditions for sure. She is truly a proper little seaboat. It is also pretty cool with that flush-decked design how you can look right out the cabin windows and watch for fish when she is really hove down to the rail--though we still never took anything more than spray into the cockpit. There were several other larger sailboats heading for cover at the same time that weren't as comfortable as we were it seemed like. The Guemes Island weather station reported wind gusts of 40 mph--yikes! According to Claire, "That was tumultuous!"

Anyways, safe and sound at home now--and looking forward to many more trips this summer after the weather gets a bit warmer.
Cheers.

[David G]

James,

Inspiring. Thanks.

[rufustr]

Thanks for posting that.
The photos are tremendous.
Sounds like a great weekend.:cool::cool:

[James McMullen]

For some reason, all the pics went blank. A glitch? I'll see if I can get them to work again. . . .

Okay, now they're back up, I think.

[PeterSibley]

Very ,very pleasant ! :)

[TimH]

Very Nice!

[BETTY-B]

I cant remember ever stopping at James Island. And I dont know why. Looks like fun to me.

DAN

[John B]

Thanks James, I just remembered why I come here.;).
Is it the normal thing to go to a dock as a destination where you cruise .. do you anchor much ?

[BrianW]

Great thread and pictures!

Thanks!

[James McMullen]

Is it the normal thing to go to a dock as a destination where you cruise .. do you anchor much ?

I never go to that dock in the summer--that's where all the gringo powerboaters go to blare classic rock on their radios and spill beer all over each other. I spend the sunny months hanging on the hook, but this time of year you can have the islands almost to yourselves.

The Washington State Parks system does do a pretty good job! I never regret paying their mooring fees as I can see it goes towards a very good cause.

[BETTY-B]

I'll have to make sure to spill some beer there this summer...

[James McMullen]

It's the second-hand Bayliner driver with more cases of beer aboard than legal PFD's that I'm referring to when I say "gringo powerboaters", not youse guys with the classic wooden yachts, Betty-B. You c'mon over and anchor within dinghy range of us on the other side of the island this summer, and we'll sip a local microbrew or a fine single-malt together--let them guys keep their casual disregard of proper fendering and their Miller Lite to themselves.

[BETTY-B]

Sounds good to me...

[Yeadon]

That Stone Horse of yours is an interesting little boat. Nice size.

I'm looking forward to hearing about you and the Stone Horse heading north up the Inside Passage.

[Robbie 2]

Thanks for the photos and sharing the memories of a great looking area.

[Michael Beckman]

Awesome. I'm planning to do a weekend trip soon. If it'd stop blowing like mad anyway. An end to the snow would be nice too.

[DGentry]

Whoa, James, you had me worried there when you started talking about Spring in WA - I was wondering if I was missing out!

Missing out on the rain doesn't bother me, though . . . .

Anyway, it looks like you had a great time and I'm glad you're psyched about your new boat - she's a beaut!

Your stove looks cool, I want one!

I'll be back from mostly sunny VA in a month or so, and we'll go for a sail and do some paddling, too, if you'd like.

Great pics!

Dave Gentry

[StevenBauer]

Thanks, James. That's just the sort of trip we're looking forward to making in the coming season. Just a little sanding, varnishing, painting and melting before we can head out. :)



Steven

[Old Sailor]

Thanks for taking me back to the San Juans. Spent two delightful summers on the schooner Zodiac.
Old Sailor

[pcford]

Thanks for taking me back to the San Juans. Spent two delightful summers on the schooner Zodiac.
Old Sailor

Was on the Zodiac to bring her down from Bellingham to Lake Union last fall for winter lay-up. Nice folks.